When I build my engine I would really like it if it didn't start leaking oil all over the place right away.
I did the oil pan gasket once, so I have an idea on how to make it more leak proof. I was thinking of adding washers and lock washers to spred the load and help lock in the torque. Also do the same to the injector pump gear cover.
Not sure what to do about the front engine cover.

The biggest change I was thinking of making was to use Form-a gasket sealant, fast drying hard setting stuff (its the brown stuff) and not using RTV on the paper and cork gaskets.
Using the Form-a gasket seemed to work good when I did the intake manifold on my car.

Does any one have any other ideas for stopping the oil leaks?

new oil cooler with stainless lines??

I found the best seal was using a gasket maker like "Right Stuff". Until, that is, you try to remove the part. Valve covers and oil pans have to be pryed and bend during removal and you spend hours cleaning the old gasket off and straightening the tin. That being said, since I don't think you'd change the oil pan gasket routinely and it's a total pain to change no matter how you seal it, I'd say the "right stuff" or equiv would be the way to go. I usually just use fel-pro whatever comes in the box and put a light coat of "high-tack" on it.

The "right stuff" might be good for the block to aluminum engine/timing chain cover since I don't remember that having a real gasket and do remember it leaking quite a bit.
Then using not quite as strong brown "Form-a gasket" on every thing else except for maybe the injector pump gasket (RTV).

Who makes that "Right stuff" or do you know where I can buy it because I think it would be prefect for at least that one area?

I tried soo hard to seal up my new engine as tight as i could, i was sick of leaking oil. My truck was doomed to a rock pad i made (my dad yelled at me when i parked on the pavement). I re-did every seal. So far no leaks! Allthe gaskets i bought were Fel-pro's. Ive had good luck with them.

Oh yeah I am getting fel-pros all the way.

I used the Right Stuff on my valve covers & oil pan and they're bone dry sealed. It's a bit pricey, but effective. The key with thin tin oil pan & valve cover rails is after getting the surfaces cleaned well, straighten everything across/around the bolt holes that often have been deformed by fasteners being overtightened - either upon initial installation, or later trying to stop a leak.

Then after you've got them straight, be very aware that you could deform them again if you overtighten. That Right Stuff will do all the sealing duty just fine if you apply it right & use care tightening the fasteners.

Go to a GM dealer and get thier engine sealant. I'ts grey and is a lot thicker than rtv. As a GM tech this stuff is real good. GM uses it to seall the upper and lower valve covers on the duramax's and if I remember correctly it come out in arounf 1998 or so to stop the dreaded 6.5 oil leaks. A 6.5 had both v/c's and the oil pan done with this stuff and If I remember correctly it lasted over 300,000 kms.

When I build my engine I would really like it if it didn't start leaking oil all over the place right away.
I did the oil pan gasket once, so I have an idea on how?

A 6.5 doesn't "leak oil."

A 6.5 MARKS ITS TERRITORY.