I think this is in the right forum, it is at least part of the powertrain. I went to change my oil yesterday for the first time and had a difficult time trying to turn the oil drain bolt. It appeared the painting from the factory fused the metal and the paint or something, i dunno. I finally got it turning and it just kept turning. Dang thing was stripped:eek: - Yes I was turning it the right way, it must have just been crosstreaded like that from the factory or something. Anybody else have this happen to them. I am taking it to the dealer for an oil change today, hopefully they can get it straight.

On another note- I really like the way the oil pan and the drain plug are situated here on the dmax. My 03 6 liter GMC's exhaust would get in the way of the oil draining out. Big mess. This should be alot easier- If I can get the plug out that is. :ro)

My oil pan was not stripped but had to replace copper washer on drain plug every time I changed the oil or it would leak. The pan must have been repaired in the factory or they did a Censored job of welding around the theads . Took it to the dealer , they charged me $45.00 and put a new washer on. Dealer told me that it was not covered because I change my own oil and needed to be torque to 62 ftlbs. I think thats a little to much so I bought a Fumoto valve, works great with no leaks.

My oil pan was not stripped but had to replace copper washer on drain plug every time I changed the oil or it would leak. The pan must have been repaired in the factory or they did a Censored job of welding around the theads . Took it to the dealer , they charged me $45.00 and put a new washer on. Dealer told me that it was not covered because I change my own oil and needed to be torque to 62 ftlbs. I think thats a little to much so I bought a Fumoto valve, works great with no leaks.

how much did you torque the fumoto valve down? thinking of getting one and having it fall out or leak is one of my worst nightmares....

how much did you torque the fumoto valve down? thinking of getting one and having it fall out or leak is one of my worst nightmares....

You torque it sorta tight:) . There's no real way to torque it without using a crow's foot because of the valve body design. I had the continuing saga of replacing the copper washers (and two plugs) on my '99 6.5 TD until I bought a Fumoto for it so I put a Fumoto on my DMax immediately. The Fumoto has a Gar-Lok paper gasket and I just put mine on reasonably snug with a 10" Crescent wrench three years and 100,000 miles ago without a bit of trouble. If you overtighten, you could split the paper, but the paper conforms and seals better than the OEM copper washer. If I had to guess, I'd say 15-25 lb-ft.

I put a Fumoto in my Mercedes that had a semi-stripped plug. I was afraid I couldn't torque it enough to hold, so I cleaned the heck out of it and JB welded it in. 2 years and 30,000 miles later it still seems to be in there good.

My oil pan was not stripped but had to replace copper washer on drain plug every time I changed the oil or it would leak. The pan must have been repaired in the factory or they did a Censored job of welding around the theads . Took it to the dealer , they charged me $45.00 and put a new washer on. Dealer told me that it was not covered because I change my own oil and needed to be torque to 62 ftlbs. I think thats a little to much so I bought a Fumoto valve, works great with no leaks.

62 ftlbs???:confused::eek:

The 16 year pimple faced kid that does the servicing at the dealership doesn't even know what torque/wrench is. Later! Frank

62 ft-lb
Maybe that's way when I helped one of guys at work with his truck we had to put a breaker bar on the plug and beat on it with a hammer. And we didn’t put it on that tight and it doesn’t leak.

Hmmm.... I installed a 12$ Fram Sure Drain. Torqued it to 26 ft/lbs. about 6 months/10k ago. Havent had any trouble with it. I always check it when I change my oil.

so the dealership has the truck in the shop replacing the oil pan- Its the second day they have had it. It's not that hard- Anyway they came up with some excuse of having to wait for the girl to bring back the sealent and it will have to dry. Ok i agree let it dry. But here is the obvious question. If they knew they were replacing the oil pan had to have sealent to finish the job, then why not get the sealent before they actually had to put it on? What ever getting tired of this dealerships service. Took them 5 days to fix a XM problem. ok I am done ranting-sorry

So the dealership has the truck in the shop replacing the oil pan- Its the second day they have had it. This can't be that hard- Anyway they came up with some excuse of having to wait for the girl to bring back the sealent and it will have to dry. Ok i agree let it dry. But here is the obvious question. If they knew they were replacing the oil pan had to have sealent to finish the job, then why not get the sealent before they actually had to put it on? Whatever-I am getting tired of this dealerships service. It took them 5 days to fix a XM problem last time it was in. Ok I am done ranting-sorry:rant:

There tell you that there is no sealant in the whole shop now that’s BS you need a new stealer. That's just like mine telling me it takes 2 days to charge a battery.

I finally got my truck back on Friday. Hopefully this oil pan will not be stripped. Only complaint, other than the above posted time delays, is the fact the shop didn't clean up their mess. They dropped the oil pan and didn't bother to wipe up the spilled oil. It sprayed back when I drove home all over the bottom of the transmission and back. I got it up, but one would have thought to at least wipe up the mess to start with before it got covered. :rant:

So what 5 days for an oil pan damn, I wonder if you have to lift the motor and drop the IFS to get the pan off?