I'll start with a little history on the truck, I have owned this "little" truck for about 18 years, have had several 350's in it and it has had a solid front axle for about 12-13 years. About 5 years ago I decided to remove the tbi 350/4L60 and the dana 44/9" axles in favor of 1 tons, air ride, an extended cab in favor of the single cab, larger tires, a 6.5TD, a 4L80E and twin 241 transfer cases. I'd been driving it like this for almost a year when I got to thinking about how much better(faster!) a Duramax would be in it, so I began shopping around for a donor motor. Well, I happened to score an '05 LLY/Allison/261XHD with 90K on it for $1899 complete with the engine driven accessories from a reputable fellow on Ebay. :D

I've been shopping for a harness, ECM, TCM, Power Distribution Center for the last 6 months since I bought the engine (I'm very patient) and I found all of it that I can pull for $300 (I think I'm doing good so far) that I am going to get tomorrow or the next day.

So I decided that I would go ahead and start a thread on this little undertaking to share what I building and to be able to scream for help when I'm ready to pull my hair out.

Can anyone think of anything else that I might need to pull when I get the harness/etc?

Can't help but I think this is going to an AMAZING swap when fully completed :D Good luck and keep us updated

NICE PROJECT BTW !
what t-case will you use ?
I ask 'cause I don't know if the 261XHD is a good unit ?

maybe you can put somes photos of the engine :D

Are you keeping your 241s coupled?

The 261XHD will be fine unless you plan to run huge numbers and tires. Look forward to fixing the pump rub issue. I would go through that soon. That would be a good time to put in a slip-yoke eliminator.

Might as well get the dash cluster as well. Heck, the mbec, and any of the cab wiring that you can, and anything else electrical, that might prove to be a future headache.

The cluster and BCM as well as the plugs associated with them if you want tow/haul mode to work.

NICE PROJECT BTW !
what t-case will you use ?
I ask 'cause I don't know if the 261XHD is a good unit ?

maybe you can put somes photos of the engine :D

Are you keeping your 241s coupled?

The 261XHD will be fine unless you plan to run huge numbers and tires. Look forward to fixing the pump rub issue. I would go through that soon. That would be a good time to put in a slip-yoke eliminator.

I've debated about this for a while and I 'm gonna go ahead and use the 241Cs that I have in it now since I have $800 worth of high angle driveshafts that work with them. If they fail I'll probably go with 241DHD's from a 5speed Cummins since they are the right spline count. My 261XHD is forsale BTW, :D


Might as well get the dash cluster as well. Heck, the mbec, and any of the cab wiring that you can, and anything else electrical, that might prove to be a future headache.

Ok, what is the mbec??? Still learning on these engines.

The cluster and BCM as well as the plugs associated with them if you want tow/haul mode to work.

Very good point as well.



Thanks guys, keep 'em coming.

My 261XHD is forsale BTW,
Ok, what is the mbec??? Still learning on these engines.
Thanks guys, keep 'em coming.

I went with a 271 in Chum. A few months ago I would be all over that 261.

The MBEC is the in-cab fuse panel, IIRC. I'm sure one of the other guys will help with this.

I thought I'd share some pics.

Here is what it looked like before I began the 1st diesel/1ton swap (back when it was one color!).
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/S10crawlin005.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/S10crawlin016.jpg


And here are some in it's current "colorful" state.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/11-19-07_1359.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/11-19-07_1355.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/S10crawlin029.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/S10crawlin020.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Pics%20of%20the%20Diesel%20S10/DSC02642.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Pics%20of%20the%20Diesel%20S10/DSC03224.jpg


I'm a pic whore. :D

cool build!!

thats freakin sweet :smile: what did it take to stuff in the 6.5? and ever think about the zf6 to bolt to the lly?

thats freakin sweet :smile: what did it take to stuff in the 6.5? and ever think about the zf6 to bolt to the lly?

Thank you.

To get the 6.5 in it I had to move the steering column left about 2.5 inches, move the steering box forward about 2 inches, the passenger side motor mount had to be moved forward about 4 inches (from were the S10 mount originally was) to clear the starter. I had to remove the heat and air system from the firewall for head and turbo clearance, I replaced the heat and air with a behind the dash Vintage Air unit. The passenger side fender well had to be reworked for turbo and downpipe clearance and the core support had to be totally reworked to get the over-grown radiator far enough forward to allow the engine driven fan to be used with a shroud. It wasn't as bad as one would think.

I would love to have a manual tranny from a power standpoint, but since I will still rock crawl it occassionally I decided that I had better stick with the automatic. An auto makes it easier (for me) to crawl it and they are typically far easier on the drivetrain. With the 2 transfer cases stacked in series my crawl ratio (lowest available gear in everything multipied) will be around 95:1, so at stock power levels (which it isn't staying at) It will be capable of laying down over 57,000lb-ft of torque at the tire. With a standard, if I bind something or stuff a tire into something that doesn't want to allow it to turn, then something is gonna break.

nice, that is one low ratio

really cool truck wish i had the money to do something like this

really cool truck wish i had the money to do something like this

Me too, lol
Thank you.

ive seen your truck build thread on another site when you were throwin in the 6.5 i believe, that is one cool little truck you got there and an duramax will be pretty sweet in there.

very cool. keep us updated on it.

Nice build, sorry for the delay in getting back on the MBEC.

If my memory serves me correctly the mbec is the Mid-Body electrical connector/control(some body will correct me if I am wrong here)

I would strongly recommend taking a look at gm upfitter's website, to kind of plan out you electrical ideas. If you are good with electrical schematics, this can be an invaluable tool at your disposal.

Hope it helps:
http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/2004_BB/2003_Beyond_LD_Electric_CK.pdf

I found that link somewhere a few months ago and have been studying it since, thanks for posting it up though, my laptop crashed a few days ago and that's where I have it saved, now it's easy to find again!

you dont need the MBEC at all. Its just a bunch of extra messy wiring.

All you need is the UBEC.

ben

you dont need the MBEC at all. Its just a bunch of extra messy wiring.

All you need is the UBEC.

ben

That's actually what I was wanting to hear, thanks.

I am hoping to be able to wire in the engine/tranny, the OBD2 port, and hopefully the gauge cluster, but the cluster isn't going to go into my S10 dash as easily as the '94 cluster that was with the truck my 6.5 came out of. I may look at some of the 2nd gen S10 dashes to see if it could be made to fit into one of them and "appear" as though it belongs. I am also wanting to keep the cruise control and the Tow/Haul working if I can figure it out.

I have a few of questions for you guys, I have read that the accelerator pedal from the electronically controlled 6.5 trucks can be made to operate the Duramax as well, Can anyone confirm this, because it is already mounted nicely in my truck.

Also, the truck that my harness came from was 2wd and doesn't have wiring provisions for the transfer case, mine is obviously 4wd, but I'm going to be using the 241 transfer cases that are in it now, Will my Allison still be able to shift when in low or double low range? Double low isn't to big of a deal, but I would like to be able to make it shift properly when in basic low range, any suggestions?

And last, I read that the ECM and TCM are vin locked (or something like that) to the vehicle, is this true, will it create a problem since it didn't even come with my engine/tranny? The engine/tranny and the harness/computers are all built in the same month/year if that helps. I am also going to get EFI-Live for it, can I remedy this situation (if it really even exists) with EFI-Live?

That's actually what I was wanting to hear, thanks.

I am hoping to be able to wire in the engine/tranny, the OBD2 port, and hopefully the gauge cluster, but the cluster isn't going to go into my S10 dash as easily as the '94 cluster that was with the truck my 6.5 came out of. I may look at some of the 2nd gen S10 dashes to see if it could be made to fit into one of them and "appear" as though it belongs. I am also wanting to keep the cruise control and the Tow/Haul working if I can figure it out. TOW/HAUL is easy to get once you get the ECM, TCM, BCM, and cluster wired in and talking to each other. It is just a momentary switch to ground to engage tow/haul.

I have a few of questions for you guys, I have read that the accelerator pedal from the electronically controlled 6.5 trucks can be made to operate the Duramax as well, Can anyone confirm this, because it is already mounted nicely in my truck. Yes, the 6.5 pedal works fine with no more quirks than it had with the 6.5. The only downside is that it will read full throttle to the DMAX ECM at just past half throttle pedal travel as the 6.5 pedal uses twice the voltage swing as the DMAX pedal does. I'm still running a 6.5 pedal and have no problems with it.

Also, the truck that my harness came from was 2wd and doesn't have wiring provisions for the transfer case, mine is obviously 4wd, but I'm going to be using the 241 transfer cases that are in it now, Will my Allison still be able to shift when in low or double low range? Double low isn't to big of a deal, but I would like to be able to make it shift properly when in basic low range, any suggestions? In this situation I would do as TUSCANTONY did on his buggy and get a SUNCOAST billet rear housing built and have it drilled for a speed sensor and just let the ECM/TCM think you are in 2WD all the time. This will cause your shifts in 4 low to be wierd, but with the double reduction there isn't much you can do. And the BILLET rear housing will be required considering that the stock case can cause the rear housing to crack and break off, the doubler set-up will add ALOT of extra weight back there.

And last, I read that the ECM and TCM are vin locked (or something like that) to the vehicle, is this true, will it create a problem since it didn't even come with my engine/tranny? The engine/tranny and the harness/computers are all built in the same month/year if that helps. I am also going to get EFI-Live for it, can I remedy this situation (if it really even exists) with EFI-Live?I haven't had any problems with the VIN numbers in mine, and EFILIVE ill let you change the VIN numbers in the ECM/TCM.


If you have any specific questions about PM me and I can send you my phone number and talk over how I did my swap with you. There are ALOT of different ways to do this swap, which one works best will be the one you decide to do.

Thanks a bunch, I'll more than likely be calling on you!

A little Update:

I have mated the engine and tranny back together and connected the new harness to both of them, I also installed the new glow plug controller and alt. So that it is basically ready for a test fit as soon as I get the old engine pulled. I have also been studying the wiring in depth so that I can get a plan of attack setup on that nitemare.

Last night I pulled the truck into the shop for some more specific measuring of "areas of concern". I confirmed that the Duramax, from the manifolds up, is a lot bulkier than the 6.5, but it isn't going to cause any trouble as long as it clears the Hydro-boost. The offset oil pan is going to clear the frame comfortably, but will probably interfere with the upper 4-link bar on the passengers side. The frame itself is plenty wide enough to handle the D-max as it is, I was mentally prepared to cut it off at the firewall if neccesary. The exhaust will exit the engine just below the floor of the cab and just inside the frame rail as it needs to. The only thing that is going to be a potential problem is the oil filter housing, it is located in the same place that the 6.5's cross-over pipe exits and I"ve already clearanced the frame for that, so hopefully it won't require to much.

After measuring the Allison more in depth I think it will fit a little easier than I had thought also. Most of it's extra bulk is below the main shaft center line, which in my case is good, because I currently have about 5 inches from the bottom of the 4L80 to the bottom edge of the frame. It will still require some tunnel mods, but probably not a total replacement as I had figured. The main thing is that nothing is below the lower edge of the frame for rock crawling purposes.

There is a very good chance that I will be pulling it back into the shop on Friday morning to start the tear down, so hopefully by Friday afternoon I will be able to do the 1st "test" fit. It won't take long to remove everything because I built everything to be far easier to remove and work on than GM does for us. :rolleyes:

I planned on having more finished by now, but I ended up having surgery to break in the new year!
Anyway, I had started pulling stuff Thursday afternoon before my problem showed it's ugly self, so while I was in the hospital my dad and three friends finished pulling all of the old drive train, wiring, and front sheet metal for me.

Today I felt good enough to give the Duramax/Allison it's first test fit. After torching off the old motor mounts I was already able to get it to within an inch of being far enough back, about 1.5" from being down low enough into the frame, and within an inch of center. AND even though the Allison is rubbing the tranny tunnel from front to back as it hangs there, it is about 1 to 1.5" above the bottom edge of the frame rails, so it's looking like it won't be tooooo much trouble since I had already clearanced everything for the 6.5. I don't want anything below the frame because I will rock crawl it occasionally.

I will have to modify the frame for the oil filter housing clearance. That is what is keeping it from centering and going down to where I want it to be. While I'm modding that area of the frame I am going to make that section on both sides considerably stronger due to the extra torque that it will be subjected to. I may also clearance the passenger side of the firewall for the exhaust just for heat shield purposes.The hydroboost unit from the 6.5 truck is missing the Duramax comfortably and the steering looks as though it will work as it is (even though it's close), but I am thinking about moving the steering box forward 2-3 inches to lessen the angle of the steering joints. The drag-link is also going to miss the oil pan fine. Either the upper right suspension link or the oil pan (or both) will have to be modified to allow the bags to be deflated without interference.

So all in all I think it is going to mount in there without to much trouble, then the nightmare starts.............the wiring. :(

Def a cool project!

What surgery did you have? Hope all is well.

How did it run with the ol 6.5 ? Better than the TBI 350?

Just wait till you feel the power of a Duramax!

Thanks man.

It is actually a birth defect that they had fixed that hadn't given me any trouble for the last 22 years. My bladder quit functioning and plugged me up, so I'm doing that super fun bag on the leg thing right now until they figure out how to fix me again. I just turned 36, so I'm not quite ready for diapers yet, lol.

The 6.5 was slightly quicker empty and way quicker while pulling a trailer, but it isn't really a fair comparison because the truck gained an extended cab over a single cab, extensive frame mods (weight), 1 ton axles in place of 1/2 tons and 38's over 36's. So even though it gained over 1500 lbs, it was still a little quicker (and noisier) :D.

I can't wait to get the Dmax going, it will easily make twice the power at 1/2 the volume.

the wiring is going to be a lot easier than you think, trust me!

the wiring is going to be a lot easier than you think, trust me!

I like the sound of that!

I was able to spend a couple of hours on it this afternoon, so I pulled the engine/tranny back out to modify (cut) the frame for the filter. As luck would have it the torch ran out of oxygen after about 5 minutes, so I didn't get as much as I would have liked. After applying a cut-off wheel and a hammer to the cut section and a little to the body lip in the tranny tunnel I was able to get the engine/tranny very close to where it needed to be. I am able to use the shroud from the 6.5 (that will also be used with the Duramax) as a reference point as to where it needs to be.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0107001812a.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0107001811.jpg


With a very small amount of trimming I will be able to get the engine exactly centered. With the front edge of the fan clutch on the Duramax exactly where the one on the 6.5 was, the only thing contacting the firewall is the tranny dipstick and with the engine moved down where it needs to be the tranny looks as though it will clear the tunnel also.

Hopefully this weekend I will be able to reinforce the frame sections and finish up the area around the filter so that I can get started on the motor mounts. All of the work that I did to get the 6.5 to fit is really paying off with the Duramax!

This swap is awesome, keep up the good work!

Justin

Looking forward to seeing this bad boy done! Suscribed fo sho!!

Thanks guys!
I made a little head way with the frame situation over the weekend, but it isn't finished yet. I'll get some pics up of how I had to do it when I get it finished.

Wow, that's really cool. Do you have any close-ups of what you did with the steering column? Was your S-10 ever a 2WD truck? I thought I was a bad ass for putting a 350 in my '94 but that's nothing compared to yours. Really bitch'n.

Wow, that's really cool. Do you have any close-ups of what you did with the steering column? Was your S-10 ever a 2WD truck? I thought I was a bad ass for putting a 350 in my '94 but that's nothing compared to yours. Really bitch'n.


Every engine swap that involves something that doesn't belong is tough. Some just have more problems to work through than others.

I haven't ever taken pics of the column. What I did was cut the area where the column bolts through the firewall out of another cab, then trimmed everything up on it and mine to where I could weld it back into my firewall with it about 2.5 inches towards the drivers side, then I moved the column over a bit under the dash. This moved my column slightly closer to the door, but with the 2001 Dakota seat I set a little closer to the door anyway.

Beyond that I moved the steering box forward on the frame 2.5-3 inches to lessen the severity of the steering joints that I had to put in it to miss the 6.5.

I have a few questions guys.

#1, Is EFI-Live my best/only option for disabling stuff that I won't need or be using like the Passlock and what not or is there another option that will do that stuff AND allow more power? The EFI-Live looks difficult to learn to tune with, is that true?

#2, I obviously won't leave this thing at a stock power level, :D and I have read that the Allison doesn't get along with increases in power much over 90hp, so I am thinking that it would be a good idea to add something like the Transgo Kit, but it looks like there is a kit that goes from 2001-2004, then one for the 2005-2006 trannies. What is the difference, is my '05 tranny better than the earlier models, or is there a better option? Also, am I in a little bit safer zone since my truck "only" weighs about 5750lbs?

#3, I already have a small intercooler that I added to the 6.5, but due to the SEVERE lack of space that I am dealing with I obviously can't use a factory sized intercooler that came with a Duramax. Since this motor will never again see the kind of severe towing duty that it was designed to handle, is there a chance that I will be safe with the smaller aftermarket intercooler? If not, would a water/meth system pick up the slack?


And an update: I haven't got to do much this week, but I do have the frame area around the oil filter finished on the inside of the frame, I just have to finish welding it up and plating the top and bottom of that area. This weekend I hope to get that area finished and the other side of the frame in that area clearanced for the exhaust and reinforced, then I'll see what I have to do to get the Duramax motor mounts adapted to my frame (or if they will even fit between the frame rails!).

While you have the trans out a Transgo shift kit is good to install.

The 06 & up 6 speeds are stronger than the 5 speeds from the factory, the 6 speed just needs to have the valve body removed to install the shift kit.

The 5speed allison needs to be taken apart to install the shift kit .

You should be ok with about 100 horse tune over stock, and you'll have one light weight ( compared to a 3/4 ton) rocket!

I would Give a EFI live vendor here a call to see if what you need EFI live can do, Im 99% sure it will do what you need.

As Far as an intercooler, You'll just have to use what you can fit and keep an eye on your EGT's.

I belive the Dmax van (??) didnt have an intercooler.

Meth will help keep your EGT's low. look up member " lotsofmiles) He has had meth on his truck for 100,000 miles.

EFILIVE is your best option, but the PPE can also disable teh PASSLOCK system. If your running a BCM then all you need is a resistor and then do the passlock learn and it will allow to run it with no other mods. Also with EFILIVE you can custom do your tunes to help your ALLISON live, along with being able to adjust shift points in the ALLISON. The price tag is steep at first, but it is worth it IMHO. As for the TRANSGO, there is the JR for the 6 speeds and the full kit for the 5 speeds. Over at the page there have been people that have done the DMAX swap without an intercooler and said it works OK. I would just make sure that your current IC can flow enough for the DMAX and squeeze the biggest one in you can.

Thanks for the input guys.

Ferm, from what I have read, the BCM is needed for the cruise and tow/haul, is this right? Also, do you just have to wire up what you are wanting it to control or ???

Cruise is done through the ECM on my LB7, but the LLY may be different as I know the BCM changed in 03. The only thing I'm using the BCM for is tow/haul, and the instrument cluster module does nothing more than trigger an LED for tow/haul mode.

I was wondering when you were gonna start this. Glad it is now!

I finally got to spend a little time on it again and I have the passenger side motor mount finished other than welding on the part that goes on the frame.

I was looking for motor mounts and remembered some 2001 Super Duty front springs that I have had laying around for years, so I cut off the larger end of each of them and used them for the bushing part of my mounts. After cutting everything out I mocked them up and tacked them, then I pressed the bushing out so I could weld it all up. Here are some pics of it, I know the metal looks thin, but that is because the bolt is 3/4" diameter.

This is what will bolt to the frame.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0121002037a.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0121002037.jpg

Here it is bolted together.
The plate to the left is what will weld to the frame.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0121002044.jpg




http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0121002044a.jpg

Nice looking mount! Very crafty!

Thanks Tim!

Now for an update.

I managed to get the other motor mount built and I welded the frame sections of the motor mounts to the frame good enough to support the engine until it is pulled where I will finish them. I also managed to get the transmission cross member far enough along to support the tranny/transfer cases.

On another note, I have decided to go ahead and use the 241's since they are built and I have them. They may give me trouble if I don't respect the power, but I'll deal with that then. The only problem with using the 241's is that the input is splined different than the Allison, so I was looking to try a Dodge 241 input as the standard shift 3/4 ton Dodge 241 is supposed to be 29 spline also. Well after not having any luck finding a Dodge input I decided to see if by some chance the input gear from the 261XHD was the same externally as the 241C and it turns out that it was, so now the transfer cases are also mounted to the Allison WITH the correct input.


Now for some progress pics.

This is the passenger side mount.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04512.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04510.jpg


This pic shows the drivers side mount and some of the frame mods.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04499.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04502.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04501.jpg


This pic shows the clearance between the front section of the oil pan and the factory 4wd S10 front cross member that the lower A arms hooked to.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04505.jpg


This pic shows how close the right upper link is to the side of the oil pan. When the truck gets down to about 3 inches from the internal bump-stops it contacts the side of the pan, but I believe that I can build a new link that will clear it easily.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04500.jpg


This pic shows the factory indented area of the oil pan that is going to clear the upper right axle link mount like it was made for it, talk about lucky.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04513.jpg


And two shots of the engine with the shroud attached for reference.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04514.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/DSC04515.jpg


The drag link is also going to get VERY close to the oil pan and the driver side of the oil pan is going to get VERY close to the diff when the bags are deflated. I may have to add bump stops, but it will only be if there is no way to gain enough clearance.

my vote would be efi live and did u consider loosing the clutchfan for some electric fans

Looking good! Did you consider remote-mounting the oil filter?

Trick looking motor mounts.

my vote would be efi live and did u consider loosing the clutchfan for some electric fans

I considered them when I installed the 6.5, but a shrouded engine driven fan will out work electric fans and I was concerned that with the smaller radiator that it needed all the help it could get, so I just made room for the factory fan. The Duramax is shorter from fan to fly wheel than the 6.5, so it will be east to use the factory fan on it.

Looking good! Did you consider remote-mounting the oil filter?


I did, but the oil filter housing sticks out just as far as the filter and I couldn't find anything that changed it, so I just dealt with it. There probably won't be anywhere else to mount the filter anyway, this poor little truck is almost full. lol

And now for another little update. You probably can't tell by the pics, but the wheel wells are installed also. The hood does contact the intake tubing that is coming from the intercooler, but I will be building a custom unit for that piece that will set considerably lower when I get all of the EGR crap removed.

It's a good thing that these engines are as durable, powerful and efficient as they are because they sure aren't much to look at! (Sorry about the crappy cell phone pics)
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0127001941a.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0127001941b.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0127001942.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0127001941.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0127001950.jpg


I removed the right upper link and let it down some more and the drag-link does contact the oil pan, so that will have to be addressed. The ECM and TCM will be able to be mounted below the left battery and the right battery is going to fit in front of the passenger side firewall where it was in the fullsize, so I can use the factory '05 battery cables that are already hooked to everything but the battery. The '05 fuse panel will mount on the drivers side wheel well as it should. All of the power steering lines from the box to the hydroboost is all hooked up. I temporarily placed the steering column back in it and it will clear the engine as good as it did with the 6.5 in it.

Now for the fun part, all of the little crap. :mad:

good work man keep it up

very nice job, lookin good!

subscribed. sounds like you have all the plans in order, and sourced most everything you need to complete the swap. props X10 for undertaking such a project. keep it up!!!

Thanks guys Rafedial1 and I can definately say the same to you

Got a question for you guys. The ECM is in a plastic box and the TCM was bolted to the plastic fan shroud, is there a reason that they are both in plastic and can they be mounted to anything metal without issues?

Wow, cool build man, subscribing to see the finished project:)

Got a question for you guys. The ECM is in a plastic box and the TCM was bolted to the plastic fan shroud, is there a reason that they are both in plastic and can they be mounted to anything metal without issues?

yes, they are NOT supposed to be grounded to the frame...isolate them when you mount them. ;)

Got a question for you guys. The ECM is in a plastic box and the TCM was bolted to the plastic fan shroud, is there a reason that they are both in plastic and can they be mounted to anything metal without issues?

The units are grounded internally, but GM didn't want to take any chances with electro static charges popping the boards, so they wanted them grounded internally only. I used the stock ECM mount and cut it down to mount to some tabs on my battery tray, the TCM though is mounted to a metal plate in front of the battery tray but is still isolated via the rubber shock mounts in the housing. Also make sure that no wires can hit the housing as a positve hit would most liklely burn out the internal ground and fry it from what I read.

Cant wait to see this beast done!!!! Ya baby ya.

This is one amazing build. I can't wait to see the pics of the finished truck.

Thanks for the compliments guys, I can't wait to see it finished either.


Ferm & Dura, that is what I figured and thanks for the quick responses. I mounted them both to a metal plate that I built to go underneath the drivers side battery as that is the only place that they can go and they (like everything else about this build) barely fit. Then I got to thinking about the plastic possibly/probably being there for a reason so I figured I had better ask someone that knows. I have already figured out how to easily isolate them from any direct metal contact to the rest of the truck, so hopefully they will be OK.

Get the factory plastic ECM bracket and cut it to where it just holds the ECM. Then mount it to the truck and snap the ECM in it. I don't remember exactly how the LLY ECM mounts, but I know that's how I did my LB7. As for the TCM, just make sure and use the right bolts to allow the mounting isolators on it to work and you'll be fine. I'd hate to see how tight yours is for the controllers as I know I had a hard enough time mounting mine in. Thta wiring harness doesn't flex very well once it all taped up nice and neat.

I actually have the plastic sleeve that the ECM came in, it's just huge compared to just the ECM. I'll dwell on it a little, I may be able to find a place that it will go. I just have to keep it clear enough right through there to be able to get the radiator hoses and intercooler tubing through there also.

I took a saw and cut the plastic piece down on mine to where it was just the outer ring left that snapped the ECM in basically as it was just way too big to be used like it was.

Mine is like a big (compared to the ECM) sleeve that it slides into and then a lid pops on it. I managed to get the plate that I made isolated from the rest of the truck this evening also.

I started studying the fuse block section of the harness and I spent a little time trying to see if I could manage to get the over grown plastic crap that it mounts in, that has a HUGE plastic cover that goes around it , that has a plastic cap that goes over it in the truck! Ugh. Needless to say, it doesn't want to fit, but I think I can pull it off and keep it looking near factory. I was wondering though, would it be easier ( or as easy) to use separate relays and fuses like I see on the PPE harness on the website or would I be better off just leaving it as it is from a wiring perspective? Everything else in the truck, besides the engine and tranny, will be ran with a factory S10 in cab harness/ fuse block.

I would think if it is tight under the hood, you would be better off to call somebody like PAINLESS and get a small fuse block and some relays and build your own. I know there was only about 8 fuses and 3 relays I believe for the engine in mine.

Great build! And by a fellow Oklahoman might I add! Can't wait to see it running. Subscribed

Thanks Tanman, what part of OK are you from?




Small planning update:

I have been toying with the idea of modifying a second gen dash to fit into my first gen truck for the sole reason that I think I can make the instrument cluster from the full sized Duramax equipped truck look factory in the second gen dash, so I had began searching for a dash and I found one.

Yesterday I got the entire dash, accessories, aluminum bracket with the brake pedal, the air bags (which I won't use), the steering column from the steering wheel to the steering box with the shift cable, and the in cab wiring harness including the power distribution center out of an '01 S10 for $120.

So now, with the new column, I should be able to use the shift cable to shift the Allison since that's how it originally worked. I also verified that I will be able to get the full size cluster to look completely factory in the newer dash. I decided after looking at the newer S10 to get the wiring because it looked as though it is wired like the '05 Duramax truck. When I got back to the shop I checked the S10 cab harness with the Duramax power distribution center and it is a direct plug in, so I am hopeful that this will make it far easier marry the S10 wiring (dash, ac, front and rear lights, etc.) to the Duramax power distribution center.

cool sounds like you made out on that deal

I sure think so.

I decided to "test fit" the new dash this evening and as I expected it's to deep from the windshield back, so after I introduced it to my cut-off wheel it was beginning to see things my way. :D

Very nice build up! Cool to see it runnin! Good luck with the rest of the work!

Thanks Tanman, what part of OK are you from?


I live in Enid right now. Where are you at?

Thanks DMAX!

Tanman, I live in Chelsea, it's about 40 minutes NE of Tulsa.




I have the new dash fitting in there good now, so it's time to start building the new dash mounts.

Love this thread subscribed!

I shouldn't have looked at this thread.... diesel S10 = awesome but Duramax S10... even better! I have a 97 S10, bagged, custom paint, lots of work done so far.... and I have a LLY sitting in the garage. You may have started a bad thing... How tight is the fit of the duramax in the S10's?

And nice build by the way! I have followed your truck build for a while now.

Love this thread subscribed!

Thank ya sir and welcome aboard!

I shouldn't have looked at this thread.... diesel S10 = awesome but Duramax S10... even better! I have a 97 S10, bagged, custom paint, lots of work done so far.... and I have a LLY sitting in the garage. You may have started a bad thing... How tight is the fit of the duramax in the S10's?

And nice build by the way! I have followed your truck build for a while now.

Haha, it's tight......it's real tight, but doable. A body lift and solid front axle are both an absolute must IMO. I have the front of the oil pan about 5/8" from the factory front cross member in the 4wd frame and the intake coming from the intercooler is going to have to be lowered slightly to clear the hood, so it's crowding both ends up and down. My radiator is almost completely in front of the core support with the fan clutch 3/4" from the radiator and the tranny dipstick tube is touching the firewall. Then, as you probably read, I had to rework the frame on the drivers side for the oil filter/housing and the exhaust isn't going to clear the passenger side without mods.

I was able to get the Duramax/Allison installed in my truck (IMO) very quickly and rather painlessly, but it was because of the amount of work that I had already done to it to get the 6.5 in it.

Now get it in there!

I haven't been able to spend as much time on it as I would have liked to lately, but I've made a little progress. I have worked on the dash more and I have the dash fitting good, the brake pedal assembly/bracketry has been clearanced and reinforced to miss the dash/defroster tubing, I have the '01 steering column mounted and finished along with the multi-joint steering shaft going to the box and the shift cable is connected from the '01 column to the Allison and is working great.

Awesome work man! Defiantly going to be watching this to the finish!

since you got the engine, have you start it ?
i'll put a lbz on my jeep soon

Nope, not yet.

That Jeep will be scary fast!

schweeeetttt

any progress on the build lately? I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product! Great work!

Thank you, I'm still plugging away at, just stuff that isn't to exciting. I'm still working on the interior, I have the '01 Dash completely mounted with everything fitting great except the door panels and that is what I am modifying now, I just don't care much for interior panel work. :mad:

I also got the Duramax cluster mounted into the '01 dash to the point that it looks like it came in it, which is the only reason I'm messing with the interior anyway. I was hoping to get the door panels finished up this weekend so I can get to the exhaust and that upper right link, but my wife's uncle passed away this evening so I have to go to San Antonio Sunday.

i am in san antonio disels10 i work on the outskirts fo town as a diesel tech at a chevy dealership

I really like visiting there, it's always warmer!

I haven't made much progress other than finishing the exhaust and having to modify the frame to get it in there. I have also removed the EGR system. I still plugging away though!

have u gotten any new pics yet

x2 I think we would all appreciate new pics... Haha How did the engine work out?

They came and looked at it and said that they would think about it and tell another gut that they knew.


I don't have many good pics of the rest of the progress, but I have some.

Here is the new steering shaft.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0224001903.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0224001901.jpg

And the new dash.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC04530.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC04531.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC04532.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/DSC04534.jpg

wanna put a cummins in mah truck for me? oh master of the swap xD

Haha, bring it on!

Actually, after seeing how much can be dog housed into my cab with the new dash, my buddy wants me to help him build a Mega Cab 5.9 Cummins powered S10.

dam thats some nice work man

thats cool

Nice dude, This is what I wanted to do to my s-10 but couldnt find a motor for less than $4500 but mines bodydropped so the motor would probably stick up too far. nice work im looking forward to the finished project.

Made a little headway this week......very little, but I got the intake finished up like I wanted it. I was going for the factory look. I also got the exhaust finished up, most of the driver side intercooler plumbing finished and the driver side figured out.

I cut up the tubing coming from the turbo to the air box and rerouted it to fit the truck where I could mount the air box that didn't fit, then I cut the top of the lower section of the air box off and bult a new lower section out of 18 gauge sheet metal then I rivoted the top section of the lower box to the sheet metal portion and sealed it up and mounted it all in the truck. This way it takes a factory '05 Duramax air filter and retained the little sticker on the air box that is correct to the engine. I thought that was kind of a cool touch.

Here is the new lower section.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0501001623.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0501001622a.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0501001622.jpg


And then all of it installed.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0501001944.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0501001944a.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0501001945.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0501001946.jpg


And my little sticker.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/Duramax%20S10%20Conversion/0501001947.jpg



I also got the rest of the stuff that I was needing for the engine last week. I got the vane position sensor, the entire intake system (now modified), the fan and fan clutch, and the driver side intercooler tubing for $132.00. I thought that I did good on the stuff price wise.

I also picked up a camper shell for it for $100.
Here are some pics of the new ( to me) camper shell, Ignore the hieght of the truck, I had the bags maxed so I could set up on the creeper while I was doing the exhaust. :D

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/0423001457.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/0423001501a.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/0423001502.jpg

That stock airbox takes up alot of space in there, that's why I went with an AFE stage 1 set-up on mine. Looks like your making some progress. Just wait until you feel the difference of the stock DURAMAX as compared to even a modded 6.5. The HP is addicting and worse than a drug.

Yeah, it's a little large, but I don't need anything else there. I can't wait to start it up and feel the difference between the two engines.

So when you gonna let me come out and see this beast man? Ill work for free haha

Anytime, but it isn't much to look at, a poor old multi-colored S10 and a Duramax is about the most pathetic looking engine I have ever seen, lol. It looks like they were afraid someone would see the engine, so they kept thinking of things to stick on it.

Anytime, but it isn't much to look at, a poor old multi-colored S10 and a Duramax is about the most pathetic looking engine I have ever seen, lol. It looks like they were afraid someone would see the engine, so they kept thinking of things to stick on it.
Haha Thats the best thing i have heard all week! Talk about the ultimate sleeper man! Maybe i can come out this weekend or something. Finals are almost over.

Anytime, but it isn't much to look at, a poor old multi-colored S10 and a Duramax is about the most pathetic looking engine I have ever seen, lol. It looks like they were afraid someone would see the engine, so they kept thinking of things to stick on it.
I love the sleeper jobs, they rule. You might want to race some Rich kids in stangs or the like and get some easy $$$. Guy out our way did this in a 70 Chevy wagon that was ugly 4 door ect but a 427 with solid lifter cam and nitrous oxide, made him a few bucks tell all the locals heard of him.:D You have the best sleeper I could think of great job. And the sticker does add to it.

Haha Thats the best thing i have heard all week! Talk about the ultimate sleeper man! Maybe i can come out this weekend or something. Finals are almost over.

I should be there this weekend, just give me a call.

I love the sleeper jobs, they rule. You might want to race some Rich kids in stangs or the like and get some easy $$$. Guy out our way did this in a 70 Chevy wagon that was ugly 4 door ect but a 427 with solid lifter cam and nitrous oxide, made him a few bucks tell all the locals heard of him.:D You have the best sleeper I could think of great job. And the sticker does add to it.

Thanks, I liked the sticker. lol

I really never thought about it as a sleeper though, I just wanted more oomph than the 6.5 was giving it.

Sweet man will do any day better than the other?

Yeah, Saturday would be best, It's mine and my dad's shop and it's on there place, so if I'm there Sunday I will be there with my wife and kids visiting instead of being at the shop working on this pig.

Haha I gotcha. Ill def give ya a call

i smell something awesome in the making!......

http://media1.break.com/dnet/media/2008/4/50apr16-keeley-hazell-double-bubble.jpg

ditch the camper man....its ruining the truck

Thanks Carslutt, now I see something (some things?) awesome!

I won't leave the camper on it, it was just to cheap not to get for when/if I ever need it.



Now, I need a little help. I have built a new lower radiator hose and I added the nipple for the heater core that goes up to the aluminum plumbing that takes it up onto the intake where it will go to the heater core, but how/where does the other heater hose go? There is a line coming from the upper front section just in front of the intake that goes from there to the EGR and through it then it comes out of the EGR pointing towards the front of the truck, is that the other one? I never seen the engine in the donor truck and I want to get right the first time.


I also managed to get the intercooler tubing cut, plumbed, and marked for bothe side and I have the area where I removed the EGR mocked up as well, just have to get it all welded up now.

I made a little more progress this week.

I made a new lower radiator hose out of aluminized exhaust pipe complete with the heater hose nipple that has a small section of hose connecting it to the radiator and the engine.

I reinstalled the aluminum section of the heater hose that routes it around the passenger side of the engine and I fixed the dipstick tube so that the dipstick would actually go in the engine again.

I modified the oil pan so that the airbags can once again be completely deflated without it hitting the front differential.

And finally, I figured out how I can make the upper right link clear the oilpan and frame throughout the full range of suspension travel by moving the mounts on the axle and on the frame for that link towards the passenger side of the truck 2 1/16 inch and re-tubing the link so that it is bent differently. I only got half way finished with this part though. I got the mounts cut loose, modified, and re-tacked, but I still need to cut the ends of the link off and make a new tube for it.

All in all I was fairly pleased with this weeks progress. Not really anything picture worthy, so you guys will just have to use your imagination.

I got the upper link finished up and reinstalled, now I can completely dump the front bags again so I can easily reach the engine.

This week I also got one of the heater hoses re-routed and hooked up.

I moved my passenger side battery over a little for more hood hinge clearance.

I made an intake stabilizer bracket to sturdy the intake tube were the EGR was removed.

I figured out how to modify the radiator over flow tank so that I can reuse it. Just had to cut a 3x3x3 triangle from the front corner of it, flip it and epoxy it back in.

Then today I decided it was time to rebuild the shaft that transfers power from the front transfer case to the rear one. When I originally built the doubler setup the front case used a 32 spline input since it was hooked to a 4L80E, then the second case had a 27 spline input, so I just made the shaft for it. Since I had to replace the input gear on the front case with the over grown 29 spline input gear for the Allison I decided to take the 32 spline from the front case and put in in the rear one due to the extra power potential it has now, so when I was fitting everything I just stuck it all together with now shaft between them.

Anyway, I have a shaft now, I just didn't have enough time to get it installed today. I did figure out an easy way of removing the transfer cases by myself though. I just let the truck almost all the way down, placed jack stands under the transfers and aired it down until it was resting on them. Then I just rolled the truck forward until the tranny shaft was out and aired the truck back up......sad huh.

Learned something new tonight!

I was so excited about the 29 Spline 261 input gear shaft going right into my 241 that I didn't check everything as I should have. As it turns out the bearing that holds the very front of the main shaft in the front of the planetary/rear of the input gear is 1.312" instead of the 1.120 that is in the 241, so my freshly modified shaft wouldn't work with the 261 input gear.

So, I fixed it. I welded the shaft up bigger than it needed to be and turned it back down to the 1.312 and now it's gonna work, I also ran another bead around where I welded the 32 splined section on it since there was room in between the cases. Sure hope it holds up.....(fingers crossed).

This is gonna be a beast of a truck!!

Thanks Brad!

I haven't got to much done lately, the kids are finishing up Softball and Baseball so I haven't had much spare time, but I have managed to get the transfer cases back out of it to swap out the input gear in the rear case and to put the new intermediate shaft in. I got them all back together, but I didn't like the way the planetary in the front case sounded, so I picked up another one yesterday to put in it this weekend. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get the transfers back in it and get the driveshafts back in it. The front one may end up needing to be lengthened since the transfers are back a little further than they were due to the extra length of the Allison.

I also got the new fan on the engine, the fan shrould back in it, the radiator in, the intercooler in, and the intercooler plumbing cut up, fit, welded together and installed.

Slow but sure!

I still need to run a new fuel intake line and hook them up.
Run tranny cooler lines and mount the cooler.
Run the upper radiator hose.
Finish the Fuse block mount.
Mount the newly modified overflow tank.
Find, mount, and plumb a York compressor on the D-Max.
Build shifting linkage for the transfer cases.
Then finish up sealing the random holes in the firewall, insulate it, sound deaden it, and reinstall the dash and culumn and then I'm gonna start the part that I've been looking forward to the most..........the wiring.

Ok men, I'm still at this thing, just very slowly....

Anyway, I have been chasing wires in the dash harness that I'm using (from a 2001 S10), positioning the wires at the power distribution plug where it will properly plug into the power distribution center from the Duramax that I'm using. For those that don't remember, I installed the dash and column from an '01 S10 so that I could mount the '05 Duramax cluster in it and I'm wondering about the Passlock theft deterent system.

Is the Pass-lock going to give me trouble when using the '01 column and dash with the '05 Duramax engine and harness?

I would just put a resistor across the signal wires to the BCM and forget about it.

Can you dumb it down for me, lol.

And I'm not gonna run the BCM unless I have too...

Can you dumb it down for me, lol.

And I'm not gonna run the BCM unless I have too...

If you have EFILIVE or a PPE to disable the VATS then there really is no need to run a BCM for the passlock as you can disable it that way. The cluster though for the LLY I believe will NOT be happy without a BCM in place. It really isn't that hard to wire it in as it only needs a few connections to make it function.

I'm getting EFI Live, but it sounds like I might be better with it connected though. All I'm wanting the cluster to do though is have all of the gauges, speedometer, and tach functioning properly, will I need/want the BCM for that or is there more to it than that? The BCM is pretty much over my head, so I'll do whatever you recommend. Thanks for your info to, I REALLY appreciate it!

I'm getting EFI Live, but it sounds like I might be better with it connected though. All I'm wanting the cluster to do though is have all of the gauges, speedometer, and tach functioning properly, will I need/want the BCM for that or is there more to it than that? The BCM is pretty much over my head, so I'll do whatever you recommend. Thanks for your info to, I REALLY appreciate it!

For the stock cluster to work, you will need the BCM. I got mine to work SOMEWHAT without it, but it was NOT happy. The guages were all VERY slow(took almost 2 seconds to respond each), and the security light stayed on the whole time. Also the only way to get tow/haul mode is with the BCM, and you might as well hook it up to have. For mine there was 2 grounds, one battery feed, one ignition feed, one accesory power feed, a class 2 data bus wire to the ECM for VATS, the other class 2 data bus wire for vehicle comms and guage inputs, and the wire that hooks a momentary ground wire for the tow/haul switch. The 03+ BCM has alot more wires to it, but they are pretty much just for inputs and outputs. Give it power, ground, the 2 data bus wires, and a tow/haul switch and you should be good to go.

Well, that doesn't sound to terribly bad and I have the BCM that goes to the Duramax, I'll just need to wire it in with the '01 S10 Dash harness I guess. The cluster is probably going to be a pain as well since it isn't the correct harness going to it, but I have all of the pig tails for the cluster and the BCM.

Thanks again and I will probably need to pick your brain some more on this too!

Tag for outcome. Looks great so far.

Sounds sweet, Was thinkin' of putting a 4BT Cummins in my 99' S-10.

Any pics on the build?

Sounds sweet, Was thinkin' of putting a 4BT Cummins in my 99' S-10.

Any pics on the build?

Of the entire build I guess?? If so yes, there is a thread on S10forum called "it's alive" in the 4wd SFA section of the Liftin It section. It isn't really a build thread, but there are a ton of pics there.


A good friend of mine put a 4bt, ZF 5 speed, US gear overdrive uniit, Borg Warner case, a D60 up front, 14 bolt rear and 37's in/on his '96 S10. It's in a thread in the same area of the one listed above and it's called "a buddies '96" if you want to check it out.

Alright, Thanks.