So ive been doing some research on a cheap turbo setup on the vette, and have concluded that i could use a turbo from a 2.0L Mitsubishi Eclipse. I would of course have to build a custom turbo manifold. I was wondering if anyone had some words of wisdom about turbocharging the 1.8L isuzu. (Max boost the internals can handle, better easier turbo option?, etc.)

mine has been turbo for about 1 yr and half,, 1982 Isuzu COUPE fast back.

i think the mitsu turb will be to large on turbine housing = slow boost laggy,compressor will be fine.

what AR turbine hsg? IMO for 1.8 diesel you need around .54AR hsg. or maybe even a .48, I sure would like to get one and the wheel to fit.( without payin a fortune)

mine has a .63 AR and it takes to long to come up on boost,once there tho, easy go to 15PSI, goes like hell and no smoke.

best part is at cruise 65mph about 3psi, car feels good and snappy, mpg is up around 3-4mpg better.

no need to turn fuel up until you got some pressure in intake!

also to my knowledge nobody has pushed the little motor to its limits,
i can see up to 20psi, after that Donno!

good industrial diesels have been as hi as 50psi and more,

4FB1 does have piston coolers, and HD piston and rings from factory, which leads me to think they had turbocharging on the plan.

OK,, most important is try to make the engine produce torque, and not rpm it to death.

RPM kills diesels not torque,, rods usually are the weak link!

Ok, so i found the AR to be .58 on the 2.0l turbo. From what i could tell on the compressor map i found was that the thing would spool around 2500rpm and with the redline at 5000 i figure it should work out ok. You would have the power when required at higher rpm (ex. on the interstate or WOT) and would retain the drivability of it as tho it was NA at the slower speeds. Thanks for the input guys! :D

Heres a link to the turbo
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TD05-BIG-16G-Turbo-Turbocharger-Eclipse-Talon-EVO_W0QQitemZ170412513398QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ad609876

Heres a link to the compressor map for the 16g Mitsubishi Turbo
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208193

OK my observations on turbs. you have 1,8L mitsu has 2L changes .48ar to around .64ar on a 1.8,, and it didnt make good boost till around 3500-4000rpm and max around 6000rpm.

now are you gonna rev your diesel to 5500-6000rpm,noway,

I drive mine daily, and it needs to start boost by 1700-1800rpm,( mine dont, it starts at 2250) and max out around 4000-4500.

like i said make torque not rpm,, Why! you ask! diesel IDI combustion chamber dont like to rev,
it takes to long for complete combustion.

and if you think your gonna make a race car out of a Chevette 4cyl. diesel 1.8L,,
you may rethink the whole thing over, like engine rpm capability, clutch, trans, rear axle,,

But you will gain a lot of knowledge, and a lot of fun!

also if i was gonna do somthin cool!

there are some JEEP turbo diesel engines around some new some take outs,

2,8L, 4cyl. turbo intercooled, now that would be a nice conversion,, Direct injection, aluminum head,, DOHC, 4valves,, Piezo multi injectors,

you would need the ECU that goes to engine also

. I was wondering if anyone had some words of wisdom about turbocharging the 1.8L isuzu. (Max boost the internals can handle, better easier turbo option?, etc.)

I've doubt the 1.8 handle much boost and hard use. Easy driving, maybe if boost is kept 10 PSI or lower. The 1.8 and the 2.2 were both originally gas engines that Isuzu found convenient to convert to diesel for small auto use. That's unlike other Isuzu diesels that are ground-up designed diesels. 1.8 and 2.2s without turbos have been great engines. When Isuzu added a turbo to the 2.2, along with some tweaks to the pistons and rods, they started to blow apart. I've seen many 2.2s with factory turbos with thrown rods. Never seen it happen to a NA 2.2 or a 1.8.

ther are some T5 GM trans that bolt up to Jeep liberty.= strong

So ive been doing some research on a cheap turbo setup

Notice I said "cheap," and I also never said anything about racing the thing, and if I was gonna do a swap I'm not gonna f*** up my 50 mpg car. My main reason for doing this is mpg gains and uniqueness factor. The power gains are just a bonus, but I might as well get as much bang for my buck as I can, right? Also, because what I've learned of diesels-> more power = higher efficiency. And we all know higher efficiency = higher MPGs.

looks like compressor and turbine housings won't be easily rotated(clocked), will they line up for that engine.

. . . I've learned of diesels-> more power = higher efficiency. And we all know higher efficiency = higher MPGs.

That's not true. More power does NOT equal higher efficiency. Any diesel is most efficient when used near its peak torque curve. With engines equal in overall efficiency, having one with more power then the other results in more fuel consumption to do the same job if the engine is too big for the job. All diesels become very inefficienty when used way below their torque curve.

That is a very common problem with farming and farm tractors. You can take a 140 horse turbo-diesel intercooled tractor that has broken all records for high fuel efficiency. Then take that same tractor and do some work that only requires 20 horsepower. It becomes a pig and uses more fuel than a small gas tractor built in the 1940s will use.

The only fact that comes close is taking a low efficiency diesel, and enhancing it's efficiency by upgrades (like a turbo). Then it can run more efficiently and make more power if done right, and used right.

A 16g will be way to big for a chevette


maybe a 13t from a turbo automatic first gen eclipse also a Turbo from a EA82 Subaru would probably be good


I had a Trooper with a C223T and it ran 12PSI stock

Turbo in most cases will not increase fuel economy.

At a steady state speed there is little boost. In that case the turbo is a exhaust restriction.

I am sure that won't change your mind but you'll see.

I had a Trooper with a C223T and it ran 12PSI stock

I had three turbo-diesel Troopers and never had any of them climb above 8 PSI boost, and 6-7 PSI was more the usual.

I cannot think of any factory turbo systems on indirect-injected diesels with compression ratios over 20 to 1 that ever had more then 10 PSI max boost.
The C223T ran 21 to 1 as I recall.

A 16g will be way to big for a chevette maybe a 13t from a turbo automatic first gen eclipse also a Turbo from a EA82 Subaru would probably be good

I was looking at the compressor maps and the 13t looks like it would spool way sooner than the 16g ever would. Thanks for the input.

good idea! make engine produce torque in mid range and not try to rev it to death.

its a diesel not gas engine.

this info may be off topic but during the ALMS racing series, the Porsches and Acura full out race cars(gas or Alcohol) reved up to 11,000rpm,, but the diesel cars that won most races reved up to only 5000rpm.
they were torquin not screamin, you shoulda heard thr difference.
so gives ya somethin to think about,, diesel won at LEMANS this yr. 1st 4 places(diesel low rpm)

OK, so i think ive found the perfect turbo for my setup. Its a TEO4H off of the late 80's early 90's 2.5L dodges. From what i can tell it will start to spool at around 1500-1800 rpm or so and should be able to make around 20 psi of boost at the top end if i wanted to push it that far. Also they seem to decently priced and not that hard to find.

Link to compressor map
http://www.stealth316.com/images/te04h-13c11-raw.gif

Also if anyone is interested with the results Im planning on having the car dynoed tomorrow. All stock just has a CAI on it.

give it a try ,once you got the sytem up and runnin you can always fine tune the turbo,

on low boost diesels you should try for a gas turbo that is from a smaller engine displacement than your diesel displacement.(because diesel dont rev high)like a gas eng.

on my 1.8 isuzu im runnin a garrett T25, boost starts 2250 and tops out way to hi for my comfort, over 4500rpm, those engines cant take it for to long, boost over 15psi +

my tach reads 2500 at 60mph, so at 5000 that figures at 120mph, NOPE not with my ass in the little bucket,(isuzu coupe)

Here's the dyno run I made the other day still waiting on the video but ill post it up on youtube shortly.

http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/yy52/gschilling87/?action=view&current=Picture005.jpg

http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/yy52/gschilling87/?action=view&current=Picture005.jpg

HI! Glen,, thats cool.

not much hp with no boost(i didnt think it would be that low) 45hp is that at the wheels.

and torque is better than i would have guessed, 132lb.ft.

factory book says flywheel hp should be 52hp. at 5000rpm


torque should be around 76lb.ft. at flywheel, 2250rpm

what gear did you run the test??

i dont dare to run my engine to the 5000rpm, sounds awful, scary.

i have run it up to 4200-4400, boost over 15+psi.

general runnin ,not racin, shift around 3800-4000,, keeps up with traffic ok.

with out turbo could not keep up to average traffic, on hills!

let us know how your project progresses?? sounds like fun!

I did the dyno pull in 4th gear and yes that is at the wheel hp. Im wondering if the torque number is a little skewed since im running 155/85r13's and i think theyre a little taller than stock tires. I calculated the rpms at to be 1933 @ 40mph and 3383 @ 70mph. Also the test was done on a Mustang dyno, if that matters at all.

Heres a link to the article of Diesel Power Magazine's test on thier diesel chevette.
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/0902dp_1982_chevy_chevette/index.html

HI! Glen,, that looks about right on the dyno grph,

BOY OH,, they sure aint no race car, like i said i couldnt keep up with regular traffic on hills, and just barely keep with HI-way speed, BUT the turbo changed everything,
i can cruise at 70mph and actually pass some cars.YES,YES, LOL

Im basically at sea level in Iowa and can pass people and run at 85 all day long it does make some smoke at highway speed (mostly when accelerating) and when running at 75-85. Im starting to wonder if my pump has already been turned up. Also it seems to run a little "faster" when its cold out. Does anyone know of a way to determine if its been cranked up? Thanks guys. :)

You beat me to it, I was going to recommend the Dodge Mitsu turbo or even the Garrett T3, both have .48 housings but the Mitsu is hard to upgrade, the Garrett, cake. Just remember, they both have Dodge specific mounting flanges and SV or exhaust mounting flanges too.

Glen are you turbocharged now??? and what turb.??

dyno was without turb. correct??

Glen are you turbocharged now??? and what turb.??

dyno was without turb. correct??

Im just running NA at the moment, and will be using the turbo from the dodge 2.5's (having trouble finding one though). The dyno run was also done NA.

I think i understand now.
you dynod on a Mustang dyno, usually they are about 10% under a Dynojet unit,(most common).for HP
also thats why the torque number number is so high, it is measuring the actual wheel torque and with the rear axle gear ratio figured in,=multiplication.

most of the dyno setups measure the rear wheel hp, but(for reasons unknown to me) they use a math formula for flywheel torque.

its somethin to do with tryin to relate to usable and common numbers.

anyway you got #s to work from.

like i said factory book says 51-52hpflywheel, at EEEK!, 5000rpm

and torque at 76lb.ft. flywheel at 2200rpm, that makes sense tho.

for thought here,, i dynoed a turbo Mazda rx7,on a Mustang, at 385whp and 900lb.ft.wtq.

same car few days later,on DYNOJET, made 405whp, and 345wtq.

not all dynos are the same but do give you something to go by for future mods.

also most gas engines make more hp than torque.

where as most diesels make more torque than hp. and at a much higher rpm

and a nice size turbo for a 1.8L diesel,what i use a T25 off a 90-91 Nissan 300ZX,they had twin turb. but i only use one of them,of course!! LOL

darn i just reread that pre-post, gas engines make power at much higher rpm, than diesels.

Im just running NA at the moment, and will be using the turbo from the dodge 2.5's (having trouble finding one though). The dyno run was also done NA.

Wow, your not very sharp, ;) Did you see my sig? :p:

What turbo do you want, Mitsu or Garrett? I have a good Mitsu, just need to pull it off an engine and have many Garrett's, just need to build one. I also have two types of covers, the old log or the current TII setup. I'll find some pics of the differences, :D

So i got the turbo a little bit ago however the housing center clamp didnt come with it. I was wondering if it was called a "v clamp" or if someone had one forsale or knew where to get one. Thanks

I would recommend starting with a Garrett T25 (factory 95-99 Talon/Eclipse). Too small? Go to a 14b (stock 90-94 Talon/Eclipse 5 speed). Too small? Go with one of those chinese 16g's.

My buddies and I have turbo'd everything you could think of with these turbos. As far as price, quick spool, and power potential, they are the way to go. You can find them, and the parts about anywhere. As you have found, the Dodge turbos aren't especially plentiful. The 14B/16G's use all the same oil lines/center sections/clamps and can use different exhaust housings to change spool characteristics.

I need one of these Garrett T25 for my Isuzu Imark,where can I get one an how much?

Ok, maybe ill rephrase my question...
Is this the proper clamp to use to hold the two halves of the turbo housing together?

http://img.alibaba.com/photo/51608295/Turbo_V_Band_Clamp.jpg

This is the turbo and the piece that i need with the arrow pointing to it in question

http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/yy52/gschilling87/?action=view&current=td04web.jpg&newest=1

Not to say it won't work, but no, those are not correct.

Do you need one of those clamps? I'm sure I've got one somewhere.

I had swapped one of these 4FB1's into a suzuki samurai a couple years ago, sold it about months ago. I'm currently building a zuk buggy with the same engine, but auto trans.

I turbo'd it with a VNT25 from a shelby daytona. It whistled just like an '03 6.0 pstroker... I'll have to do some digging for the dyno sheet but I believe it was 58hp and 80 ftlbs with 31" tires. Pump was cranked to the verge of running away. 21lbs of boost at something like 3500rpm. I beat the hell out of this motor and boost above 15psi was the norm, the VNT25 spooled instantly. It held together for me, just had to buy new glow plugs.

dyno...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcFcnkoU_kQ&feature=channel

whistle...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGo6xDwaqcs&feature=channel

VNT25 hanging from my manifold built from weld-els...

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee27/jheyob/PORC%20Rig%20Registry/PICT00462.jpg

Not to say it won't work, but no, those are not correct.

Do you need one of those clamps? I'm sure I've got one somewhere.

I do need one of those clamps, if uve got one id love to get my hands on it.

Also jheyob (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/member.php?u=84830), I saw your videos on youtube awhile back and they inspired me to do this build up. God that thing is cool!! I cant wait for my Vette to sound like that lol, and did you run the stock clutch fan or an electric one?

I used 2 8" electric fans and a 3 row radiator from some toyota truck (not sure exactly I ordered it out of a radiator catalog). I also had to run an air to oil cooler with a 6" fan...this helped out a lot for hammering on it.

I used 2 8" electric fans and a 3 row radiator from some toyota truck (not sure exactly I ordered it out of a radiator catalog). I also had to run an air to oil cooler with a 6" fan...this helped out a lot for hammering on it.

Awesome thanks for the info. Did you happen to run an intercooler as well, and what did you get for EGTs? Did you need head studs or a new head gasket too or was it all stock?

no intercooler an haven't a clue on egt's. I put a new head gasket on it when I had the head decked. Used original head bolts. Stock timing also, that might be why it survived.

i want a suzuki samurai!!