Is there anyone working on any independant twin turbo systems for our engines (One running off of each half of the cylinders)?

I've been looking into the possibility of twins for both functionality and show, and from the systems I've "seen" so far, I've not liked they way those systems are set up.

I'd certainly like to get in contact with some people working on twins and see what they think. :)

i seem to recall someone posting a picture of one, but i have yet to see anything hit the market. i belive someone else (might have been got juice) recapped a dodge that ran independant twins..

i seem to recall someone posting a picture of one, but i have yet to see anything hit the market. i belive someone else (might have been got juice) recapped a dodge that ran independant twins..

It was tried on a Dodge a few years ago.
Dual hy35's IIRC.
From what i understand the low/midrange spool was great but the EGT's skyrocketed without sufficient air volume for the fuel provided.

We COULD do it on a DMX, but we would run into the same limitations as we add more fuel. While not impossible, from my observations and others who have tried this the benefits are in a very narrow RPM window on an engine that does not have a lot of RPMs to play with. You would still need a larger charger on the top end to make it work effectively. Then again, you are still dealing with exhaust restriction on the very small housings to get the spool charecteristics. One way past that would be to use external wastegates on the 2 smaller chargers. Burns stainless www.burnsstainless.com (http://www.burnsstainless.com/) was more than willing to make header pipes for this one, but the co$t was a bit on the high side. Plus the location of the second charger on the D/S of the engine would pose a problem with the steering shaft. The headers (to make this endeavor feasible ) would be as close to the exhaust manifolds as possible and of equal length, both to keep drive pressure and response time the same and to minimize thermal losses.

Turbocompounding (The Twins I have on) offer 'stock' spool charecteristics until 7-9 PSIG. After that, the big charger takes over rather effectively i might add.

The 'bottom' charger is actually too big for the duramax to spool on its own; the stock charger is actually used to 'kickstart' the larger one (intake routing is from air filter to bottom charger inlet, then from bottom turbo dischage outlet to stock charger inlet, then from stock charger discharge to intercooler... Exhaust flows from header pipes to stock charger exducer, from there to the 'hot pipe' and into the exducer inlet of the bottom charger, and from there out the 4" downpipe)

In effect the stock charger does nothing more than provide 7-9 lbs of boost, and at the same time 'pulls and push starts' the bottom charger until it takes over in terms of flow and pressure.

We are lucky in one respect. Our stock turbo is more than adequate for bringing the bottom charger online in a short period of time. The only smoke I have now is the initial one when stomping on the throttle. After that, no smoke at all.

I ran the truck up to 125 MPH tonight, and EGT's on the WOT run were just a titch over 1000F.

Keep in mind, I am also running the BANKS Technicooler, and this is just a little more test information I am gathering. The same test with the stock Intercooler were higher.

As a side note, I think we all need to step back for a minute and realize the 'pressure block' we have to our CAC's. From what data I have aquired, I am considering 'venting' the hood to allow for a negative airspace (if that is the right term) to increase the airflow through the front of the cooling stack. Anything over 75 mph shows an exponential increase in temperature.

Ah well, Back to testing!

As a side note, I think we all need to step back for a minute and realize the 'pressure block' we have to our CAC's. From what data I have aquired, I am considering 'venting' the hood to allow for a negative airspace (if that is the right term) to increase the airflow through the front of the cooling stack. Anything over 75 mph shows an exponential increase in temperature.

Ah well, Back to testing!


A trick we used on Grand National's was to pull the rubber gasket that sit's on top of the cowl and seal's to the underside of the hood near the windshield to get more heat out from under the hood.

Might help you to vent the underside of the hood on the truck too.


DD

what abot this one http://www.quicktimeautomotive.com/_wsn/page16.html

I believe Banks is working on a system.

& probably won't release it

A trick we used on Grand National's was to pull the rubber gasket that sit's on top of the cowl and seal's to the underside of the hood near the windshield to get more heat out from under the hood.

Might help you to vent the underside of the hood on the truck too.


DD

I was thinking of making some reverse NACA style ducting just behind the radiator fan , or possibly higher up towards the windshield. 2 ducts about 7" wide and 12" long should drop pressure enough to allow more throughput.

In your opinion, would we need to create a positive seal on the leading and lateral edges of the hood to make this more effective?

Not sure Juice, I know we pulled the gasket on the GN's to help vent some of the under hood heat from city driving, but when you get up to highway speed it could work opposite and actually push air into engine compartment, sort of like how the old cowl induction hood's helped push air into the carb by taking advantage of the low pressure area at the base of the windshield.

But since it's spread over such a wide hood and the fact that's it's open underneath, I'm not sure what would actually happen.

But it's easy enuf for you too find out, just pull the gasket out and see if it help's. The gasket just sit's in a track on the cowl just pull it out one side, sort of like a windshield wiper sit's in the arm.

If it dosen't help you can always just put it back.


I think I'll try it tomm too just to see there's any engine temp or tranny temp diff.

Banks has many pictures on their website of their duramax racer and it looks like they're running a parrallel system. :confused:

Not sure Juice, I know we pulled the gasket on the GN's to help vent some of the under hood heat from city driving, but when you get up to highway speed it could work opposite and actually push air into engine compartment, sort of like how the old cowl induction hood's helped push air into the carb by taking advantage of the low pressure area at the base of the windshield.

But since it's spread over such a wide hood and the fact that's it's open underneath, I'm not sure what would actually happen.

But it's easy enuf for you too find out, just pull the gasket out and see if it help's. The gasket just sit's in a track on the cowl just pull it out one side, sort of like a windshield wiper sit's in the arm.

If it dosen't help you can always just put it back.


I think I'll try it tomm too just to see there's any engine temp or tranny temp diff.

I'm wondering if it will help the LLY guys at all.
And LB7's:o:

Banks has many pictures on their website of their duramax racer and it looks like they're running a parrallel system. :confused:



The endurance racer will have the paralell setup.

The Drag vehicle(s) most likely will have compounds.