So yesterday all was fine driving my 94 K2500 burb. I was driving home from work about .5 miles away from the exit and heard a THUD. Losing power I coasted to the top of the exit ramp where it died. It would restart and idle, but would immediately die when I shifted it into any gear. Had it towed home. Disconnected batteries in case it was in some sort of limp mode. Reconnected them. No change.

This morning I finally figured out how to read the codes. Was given 4-

18-Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
35-Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
94-Cylinder Balance
95-Cylinder Balance

I guess these are all new since I reset the computer. I wonder if I cleared any tranny codes? Now it won't idle. It is cold here so I plugged in the block heater now and am going to go try again in a half hour to see if it will idle. Then I will try to put it in gear to see if it gives me any new codes.

Any insight into what these codes mean or as to what may have happened? I posted in the tranny section becuase at first I thought it was tranny related but now am not so sure.

Thanks for you insight,
Ryan

Got it running long enough to shift it into gear when it killed.

One new code-
54-PCM fuel circuit error

Cleared codes using brake/tap accelator 5 times. Tried to start again. Only code showing up now is 18. Repeated. 18 again.


1. Describe the problem you are having in detail:
See post #1
2. Year of truck (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42248#)/engine. 94
3. Odometer reading (indicate miles or kilometers). 214xxxmiles
4. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......). Don't know
5. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. 2500
6. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit) F
7. Air Filter condition (visual check). Clean
8. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed, mileage (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42248#) since changed). Unknown
9. Location of PMD/FSD (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39436)? (ex. on pump/remote over intake, behind bumper). Mounted on heat sync on bumper by PO
9a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from which vendor). Unknown. PO did it.
9b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. ??
10. Outside Temperature (C or F). 40F°

11. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent ON
11a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes/No Yes
12.Have you scanned for engine codes? Yes/No Yes
12a. List exact results on engine codes (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/dtc.php).

18 seems to be most consistent. Have had others. See post #1

13. Condition of Battery terminals (removed, cleaned and tightened). Clean and tight
14. Known condition and age of Batteries. Less than 1 year
14a. Are batteries a matched set of same age? Yes
15. Condition of Major Grounds (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157085) (removed, cleaned and tightened) Clean and tight

16. Does engine crank, or "turn over"? Yes
16a. Does engine start and run? For a short bit with WOT
17. If engine does not start- Crack injector line (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2188140#post2188140): do you have fuel? Yes/No Yes
18. Does your Wait To Start light come on? Yes
18a.Number of seconds WTS light is lit. ~10
19. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer). Have to check

20. Are you experiencing Stalling? It did when problem arose
20a. Describe the event (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump, etc...) Loud THUD caused it. Haven't been able to shift it into gear since.
20b. Do you notice loss of dash or instruments? No
21. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. Clean
22. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now? NA
23. Lift pump test (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39350) - Describe results. Not done yet

24. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/No Unknown
25. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/No 10-15 seconds of heavy white smoke then clear
26. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? Yes/No YES, but only since problem arose
27. Have you used the block heater? Does it affect engine starting? (only try for starting problems). Have used. Seems to make no difference.
28. Are all glow plugs in proper working order (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39182)? Seem to be but haven't tested

29. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/No Not excessive. A bit.
30. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? White smoke on start up.
31. Turbo check out (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368) - Pass/Fail Havent' done yet.
32. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-Diesel, #2 Diesel, SVO/WVO, other
All of the above. Ran ASTM B80 this summer in main tank. D2 now and have a 2tank conversion running WVO
32a. If running Veggie Oil fuel setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade or packaged system). Greasecar system with FPHE. Filter using centrifuge.
33. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list. No
34. Upon unscrewing fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? Yes/No A bit of a whoosh. Not large
35. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? PO has changed IP but think it was a used one.
36. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. Have pryo boost gauges. Just took it on 135 mile round trip day before and all was great.

What do you think about a broken crankshaft?

Yesterday I was thinking IP, but fuel comes out of the injector line and that doesn't really explain the THUD that caused this all.

17 yrs working for the General.....98% of the time cam codes result in IP replacement...you can try unpluggin the optic sensor..its the connection on top of pump and see if vehicle will run..if it runs better..IP replacement required...as for other codes usualy set to to when vehicle stalled.

As mention, there is an optical filter harness on top of the IP.

For a pic, go to heath diesel website on how it looks like.

17 yrs working for the General.....98% of the time cam codes result in IP replacement...you can try unpluggin the optic sensor..its the connection on top of pump and see if vehicle will run..if it runs better..IP replacement required...as for other codes usualy set to to when vehicle stalled.
Okay, thanks for the help. What can I do to test that it is the IP? Does it make sense that I would hear a loud THUD when driving if the IP went?

I'll try unplugging the optic sensor when I get home tonight.

Ryan

Well, here is the latest.
I have let it sit in my driveway since last Tuesday (almost a week).

I plugged it in this morning and let it sit for about 6 hours. Went out and started it (It was nice fall day here so around 60F). I could keep it running with the RPMS above 1500. If I let off the throttle it would surge and sputter and die. The RPMs would go from 900 to 1200 to 900 to 1200 until it would die.

So I checked codes. Still only code 18. I cleared the codes. Started it again and kept it above 1500RPMS long enough to get the temp gauge above 160F. I let of the throttle and it would idle without dying but it would still do the surge up and down thing.

I popped the hood and the whole engine was shaking (more than a normal diesel :D) in tune with the surge. I looked under at the drivetrain and it was doing the same thing. So I got back in and put it in Reverse, it tried to shift into gear but then died. Check for codes. Still only 18.

Started it again. Tried to put it in 1st gear and it immediately died. Still only code 18.


I guess I am leaning towards bad IP but I would have to spend the big bucks on a new one only to find out that wasn't the problem.

Anyway I can troubleshoot the IP?
Also, when it started losing power on the road, there was a definite THUD. Would an IP going cause a THUD?


Would the engine be able to run with a broken crank?


Thanks for helping me work through this.

I tried unplugging the Optical Sensor. I'm not 100% sure that is what I unplugged but it was the top cylindrical thing on top of the IP. There were two wire coming out of it. That is what I unplugged. I couldn't get it to start with it unplugged. I plugged it back in and we were back to the surging. I gave it a little more throttle this time and noticed the engine would 'take off' and surge up to 3k+ RPMs if I hit the throttle a bit harder. This would make one think the IP is bad, correct?

Also, mine is a 94. I have heard there are two different types of IP for the 6.5s from 94-99 and looking at Heath's page he has a model 5068 for the 94 and a model 5521 for the 94-99. Which one is the one I have?

That cylindrical thing is Fuel Shutoff Solenoid.

I tried unplugging the Optical Sensor. I'm not 100% sure that is what I unplugged but it was the top cylindrical thing on top of the IP. There were two wire coming out of it. That is what I unplugged. I couldn't get it to start with it unplugged. I plugged it back in and we were back to the surging. I gave it a little more throttle this time and noticed the engine would 'take off' and surge up to 3k+ RPMs if I hit the throttle a bit harder. This would make one think the IP is bad, correct?

Also, mine is a 94. I have heard there are two different types of IP for the 6.5s from 94-99 and looking at Heath's page he has a model 5068 for the 94 and a model 5521 for the 94-99. Which one is the one I have?

You unplugged the shut off solenoid. The optical sensor is the six wire plug going into the black connector on the top of the big cube part of the pump.

To find out what pump you have, you need to look at the tag on the back of that cube part. On it will be a DS4831-XXXX number. If the XXXX is 5068, you need a 5068 pump. If it's anything else, then anything but a 5068 will work.

You unplugged the shut off solenoid. The optical sensor is the six wire plug going into the black connector on the top of the big cube part of the pump.

To find out what pump you have, you need to look at the tag on the back of that cube part. On it will be a DS4831-XXXX number. If the XXXX is 5068, you need a 5068 pump. If it's anything else, then anything but a 5068 will work.
Hmmm, well that is a bit dissapointing. It is a 5068. So it appears that is what I will need. Thanks for the clarification on it.

I tried running it with the oprical sensor detached. It did not run any better.

What really has me stumped is why it kills when I shift it into gear? Why would this have anything to do with the injection pump?

Update:

I ordered a newly remanufactured IP (5068) with a BRAND NEW Stanadyne PMD for $425. A shop had ordered it and ended up not using it. I think I got a good deal on it. Hopefully this IP is the only issue.

Hopefully I can get it on next week sometime!

also my 94 6.5 was doing that... are you seeing alot of smoke at idle..... also check the turbo when mine did this it turned out to be that some how some way my turbo sucked insultaion into the turbo air tube... not letting enough air get into the motor....... try that hope thats all it is....if not im going to say pmd.... did you get the relocator kit with the pmd and the 6foot wire harness..... .... .. . .. . ... just a thought

also my 94 6.5 was doing that... are you seeing alot of smoke at idle..... also check the turbo when mine did this it turned out to be that some how some way my turbo sucked insultaion into the turbo air tube... not letting enough air get into the motor....... try that hope thats all it is....if not im going to say pmd.... did you get the relocator kit with the pmd and the 6foot wire harness..... .... .. . .. . ... just a thought

No. Only smokes at start up for about 5-10 seconds then goes away. That has always been there.

The PMD was relocated on a heat sync on the bumper by the PO. I'm not sure of the condition of the PMD when he installed it. I'm betting it was a used one, but I don't know for sure. I'm getting a brand new Stanadyne PMD with the new IP anyways.

I'll check the turbo when I start taking everything off for IP replacement. There was nothing in the way of the air filter and the filter was on tight, but I'll check anyways. I noticed a surging the last time I checked it. To me that verified that it was the IP. But the THUD that caused it all still has me worried.

Just wanted to put a bit of closure on this thread for anyone doing searches in the future.

I got the new IP on and got it fired up and running. I took it out for about 20 miles and it drove great. So far it seems that the IP was the only issue. Hopefully it holds true!


Thanks everyone for the input and help!
Ryan