Got the truck down to 6020lb. Ran 3/8th tank. :D It's probably under 6k empty.

Starting point:
Front = 3620lb
Rear = 2400lb.
60/40 weight bias pretty much exactly.

While that is not as bad as I thought, I'd like to be better than 60/40, and 5750, yet retain 100% functionality of the truck. This will probably be pretty hard to pull off. Not to mention, it seems our motor/trans is off center on the wrong side. Probably for 4WD reasons. While this is good for drags, it is bad for handling and brakes.

Most the "easy" weight reduction is in the back, exactly where it is not needed. I can hit the 5750 by simple changes, but it will make the weight bias even worse. Doing some measuring to see what I can get away with.

How far do you want to take this? Are you going to tow with the truck?

Just an idea I had for moving weight to the rear was to keep both batteries (versus taking the PS one out), but put them both in the rear, under the bed, maybe in the spare tire area (assuming the spare is removed) or behind the tires (have to be careful around the exhaust). Run cables to the front original cables and should be set. Thats 75 pounds off the nose and put on the rear.

Another thought is fiberglass front end pieces (if anyone makes original design, i.e. not flared) or even one step better, a carbon fiber hood and fenders.

Also, I tend to believe that the truck (2wd) will run quicker/faster at a heavier weight but with the weight in the right spot versus a truck at a lighter weight but weight removed off from everywhere including the back. Kind of along the same thought as you have, better weight distribution instead of a better total weight. Of course this is to a certain point.

With that in mind, adding a sandbag or better yet, weight bars to the rear would be better even though it adds to the total weight. I have 4 90lb each, lead filled 2x3 bars going under the rear of mine, tucked right behind the bumper (2 per side).

Other small things would include having the front bumper acid dipped, aluminum front bumper brackets, removal of fog lights and tow hooks, running with the wiper fluid tank dry, 3/16" thick lexan front windsheild and side windows, etc.

All depends on how crazy you want to get.

If I wasn't going to tow much with it I would also remove the belt driven fan and replace with a electric fan. This would reduce weight and reduce engine load.

I would also relocate 1 battery to the box and remove the second one. 2 is overkill for Socal anyways and you could easily make it reversible.

The truck must maintain stock characteristics or better. Towing, mileage, function, payload.

Goals:

12.x on #2, 11.x on drugs.
20+ MPG
8000lb towing
.85g on the skidpan
125' 60-0
Daily driver work "sport" truck

Just an idea I had for moving weight to the rear was to keep both batteries (versus taking the PS one out), but put them both in the rear, under the bed, maybe in the spare tire area (assuming the spare is removed) or behind the tires (have to be careful around the exhaust). Run cables to the front original cables and should be set. Thats 75 pounds off the nose and put on the rear.

Another thought is fiberglass front end pieces (if anyone makes original design, i.e. not flared) or even one step better, a carbon fiber hood and fenders.

Also, I tend to believe that the truck (2wd) will run quicker/faster at a heavier weight but with the weight in the right spot versus a truck at a lighter weight but weight removed off from everywhere including the back. Kind of along the same thought as you have, better weight distribution instead of a better total weight. Of course this is to a certain point.

With that in mind, adding a sandbag or better yet, weight bars to the rear would be better even though it adds to the total weight. I have 4 90lb each, lead filled 2x3 bars going under the rear of mine, tucked right behind the bumper (2 per side).

Other small things would include having the front bumper acid dipped, aluminum front bumper brackets, removal of fog lights and tow hooks, running with the wiper fluid tank dry, 3/16" thick lexan front windsheild and side windows, etc.

All depends on how crazy you want to get.

Yeah, going to try a "big single" battery aft of rear axle. Testing next week.
No spare (I need the space), exhaust will terminate before the axle.

Lexan? Not sure it work on a daily driver. Bumper? Hehehe... Got it coming.

Some other tricks I'll post if they work.

Just be carefull with the one battery. At the last race at LACR I ran with one battery, by the 4 race I needed a jump start. It wouldn't turn over anymore.

Just be carefull with the one battery. At the last race at LACR I ran with one battery, by the 4 race I needed a jump start. It wouldn't turn over anymore.

Hmmm... Yeah, I will test with one bigger battery (900amp) and if that won't allow me to drive around reliably, I'll need to run a second one.

I think you would be fine with one not even a big one just get a deep cycle and don't start for a short while and shut it down. What did you do for a bumper a SS?

Trying a NASCAR part first. Surprisingly cheap, but won't know if it works until it arrives.

What scales did you use to weigh the beast?

A mile from my house we have a certified grain scale. Doesn't charge me. :D Goes in +/- 20lb increments.

My Longacre wheel scales only hold 1,000 per wheel.

I have some scales but I'll have to check their rating (will have to dig them out shed)...

Thinking their only rated to 1500 per wheel....

Well, I'm worried not about corner weighting it yet, so I just weigh front/rear and combined (to verify). With my lard ass, the offset engine and fuel, and massive weight on the front, I'd be surprised if you could balance a Dmax side to side.

You can measure the weight of vehicle by measuring the footprint each tire puts down and knowing the PSI in the tires. Works best with slicks, but works OK with street tires.