Went ahead and installed TTS' dual lift pumps today. My observations would help the novice (first time installer) of any lift pump installation. Here is what I gathered from my afternoon installing lift pumps:

1) Having an anxious helper is great, especially when he yanks the fuel line out so quick that I was showered in diesel fuel.

2) Mounting bracket and pumps are a perfect fit with no mounting problems whatsoever.

3) Did not find it necessary to remove exhaust, driveline, etc. All that I did was backed up to ramps (easier access to the rear).

4) Tapping for the boost is a real PITA because GM decided to add more than one 'light green' wire (found like 6 of them) some had stripes, others no stripe. I tried toning the wire out, but no luck. When it was all said and done, I had ripped apart the harness coming from the 36pin(?) and 24pin connectors that meet in the main fuse box and finally traced it manually.:mad:

5) Besides the boost wire, it was straight forward. The oil line was found the first shot (wish I could've said the same for the boost).

6) These pumps are so quiet, I wasn't even sure if they were wired correctly.:eek: Had my anxious helper turn the key to the start position while I was under the truck trying to hear any noise. They were wired correctly.

If you take your time with the install, anyone can do this in their driveway. The nice part was no cut fuel lines. Took me a while to complete because I wanted everything wired a certain way (wire loomed and zip tied) and you can't even notice where it's been wired through. No signs of tapping anywhere (except the fuse box).

Do they work?!?!? I didn't get to test drive much without any weight (had to tow something tonite), but I'm sure I'll be experimenting more within the next few days.

On a side note, tried to race some guy in his riced out Focus while towing my boat.:eek: Let's just say he was pretty damn surprised when a big ole Duramax Diesel kept right with him. Not sure how much my boat weights, but they both had full tanks of fuel. I can't wait to try these when I'm not pulling the boat.:grd:

Thanks Son for the write up :thumb:

Quite that is a word I like. Esp since mine is really Loud -:t

Thanks Son for the write up :thumb:

Quite that is a word I like. Esp since mine is really Loud -:t

No problem. Mine are whisper flows!;)

Went ahead and installed TTS' dual lift pumps today. My observations would help the novice (first time installer) of any lift pump installation. Here is what I gathered from my afternoon installing lift pumps:

.........

If you take your time with the install, anyone can do this in their driveway. The nice part was no cut fuel lines. Took me a while to complete because I wanted everything wired a certain way (wire loomed and zip tied) and you can't even notice where it's been wired through. No signs of tapping anywhere (except the fuse box).

Well at least I know where to take my truck to get one put on........;)


LATER!

Well at least I know where to take my truck to get one put on........;)


LATER!

I just noticed I have a fuel leak!:mad: There were no fuel leaks last nite, so I don't really know what it could be. It's not too bad, but it needs to be fixed. Problem is, I need the truck right now. Oh well, I'll have to just drive it like that.

You still want me to 'install' it??!:rolleyes: :badidea: :D

Can you take some pictures of it installed? How is it installed so that you don't have to cut any fuel lines? I like that idea. I would really prefer to not cut any fuel lines.

Tony
TTS supplys a direct replacement fuel line with quick disconnects taylored to their pumps. There is no fabricating involved.
mike

Make sure you have pushed the fitting completely onto the steel line at the frame and onto the sender. I had a small leak on my own truck when first installed. Turns out I had not push the line onto the steel line on the frame all the way. The fittings will snap when they are on and will not pull back off unless you depress the locking clip.

Make sure you have pushed the fitting completely onto the steel line at the frame and onto the sender. I had a small leak on my own truck when first installed. Turns out I had not push the line onto the steel line on the frame all the way. The fittings will snap when they are on and will not pull back off unless you depress the locking clip.

I'll try that. I also noticed I overtightened one of the hose clamps that goes onto the pump making it release tension when I tried tightening again.

Thanks Mike. So it connects directly to the fuel tank similar to how the Nicktane is hooked up? What about the outlet end where does it connect?

So it is completely reversible?

So it is completely reversible?

It's reversible; snap one end, the other and put the stock hose back on.

To see all the parts look here:

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33069

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4673&stc=1&thumb=1 (http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4673)

This is the pumps installed just in front of the Fuel cooler up out of the way of road damage. The stock line that goes from the fuel sender to the frame rail is replaced with the new hoses supplied in the kit. One line from the tank to the inlet and one line from the outlet to the frame rail line. This means no cutting and you can go back to stock just by removing our kit and reinstalling the factory hose.

Thanks, thats what I was looking for. I'll have a look under my truck to get a better feel for it.

I'd like to find some kind of crimp clamps instead of hose clamps. I am not a fan of hose clamps.

I'd like to find some kind of crimp clamps instead of hose clamps. I am not a fan of hose clamps.

While crimp clamps are fine we have made the kit so that one will fit all truck sizes. So the hoses are supplied long enough for a long bed and are about 2" longer than they need to be for a short box. This allows the customer to trim the ends to fit the truck before being pushed onto the pump fittings. Not too many people have the proper crimp tool for crimp clamps but anyone installing a kit has a screwdriver.;)

Oh Son,

If I get a set are you going to come help McRat install them on Big Blue?

Mom

Oh Son,

If I get a set are you going to come help McRat install them on Big Blue?

Mom

No problem. Let me know when to :grd: , mom!

No problem. Let me know when to :grd: , mom!

:cool: I will let you know as soon as I get them

Kat

Talked to McRat yesterday and you my dear.:rolleyes: :D I can't for the life of me figure out why I am helping you kick the $hit out of me. :think: :idiot: :duh: :Insane: :shootself :Nothing_f :cool:

Kat

Talked to McRat yesterday and you my dear.:rolleyes: :D I can't for the life of me figure out why I am helping you kick the $hit out of me. :think: :idiot: :duh: :Insane: :shootself :Nothing_f :cool:


Because of my irresistible charm and you http://www.qinsp.com/k/love.gif me? :hug:

I am not sure if this has been covered on this set up or not, but would it be better to install an auxilery filter before or after the lift pump?

Have many people installed this pump latley? How do you like it?

I am not sure if this has been covered on this set up or not, but would it be better to install an auxilery filter before or after the lift pump?

Diesel Power is running a Nicktane kit pre pumps with no troubles but I would prefer to see them after the pumps.

Have many people installed this pump latley? How do you like it?

Ordered mine on Thursday.

I completed my install as well.........

Yes other than finding the BOOST wire..........Light Green.........it was a simple install.......

The directions are straight forward and TTS has provided PICS to follow along with so you always have a visual reference.

I know I probably did not have to but I disconnected the battery cables and pulled the TCM and ECM out so I could ohm the wires with a continuity tone without worrying about frying anything. The easiest way to find the wires for the Boost and OIL PRESSURE is to use an automotive digital multimeter that has an OHM setting that will emit a tone when the correct wire is found...........:)

The two bale connectors on the engine that a JUICE/VA etc. plugs into are where you need to look for the correct wires. They are in the bale connectors that you remove and slide out, not the ones on the engine that are permanent.

The OIL PRESSURE wire is in the lower/larger bale connector.........the BOOST wire is in the smaller top bale connector..........you have to trace the wires to the main harness as it enters the fuse box.........the Oil Pressure wire comes out of the main harness on my 2002 and connects to a smaller connector that goes into the interior harness under the fuses, I assume that connector goes to the cluster, that's the simple wire to find.......

As 05 2500HD stated the BOOST wire is a PITA to find, it is in the main harness from the engine that goes to the ECM. They will go down and towards the front of the truck where the ECM is located. The green wire on mine was buried deep in the middle of the harness and was a PITA to get the T-TAB connector onto it.........:mad: ......

I used a digital meter with a tone for continuity and I alligator clipped the ground from the meter to the bale connector green wire and then probed all the green wires that looked like the right ones.....:rolleyes: ....I finally dug deep enough to find the correct one.....Censored ....once that is found the rest is easy.........:D

Hope that helps anyone that is waiting for their pumps to come in........if you do not have a digital multi meter borrow or buy one............they are handy to have anyway........

Good Luck............

T:cool: NY
.
.

Just had mine installed on Friday. The long hose was 2" too short and the short hose 2" too long. The wires were about 6" too short with how we routed them to be neat looking. No big deal, I'm not complaining.

One question, that I don't remember seeing: at what boost pressure does the second pump come on? Just out of curiosity more than anything.

Just had mine installed on Friday. The long hose was 2" too short and the short hose 2" too long. The wires were about 6" too short with how we routed them to be neat looking. No big deal, I'm not complaining.

One question, that I don't remember seeing: at what boost pressure does the second pump come on? Just out of curiosity more than anything.

I believe the second pump comes on at 15psi, if I remember correctly.

As 05 2500HD stated the BOOST wire is a PITA to find, it is in the main harness from the engine that goes to the ECM. They will go down and towards the front of the truck where the ECM is located. The green wire on mine was buried deep in the middle of the harness and was a PITA to get the T-TAB connector onto it.........:mad: ......


Look on the bright side, you can also use this wire to reroute the copilot so it can be hidden.:exactly: I went ahead and tapped the copilot under the fuse box. Looks good now!:D

I am running the TTS dual pump but I am still getting bursting when I accelorate from a hard start, like the second pump does not start yet then it takes off, shifts into second bursts and then is fine all the way thru 5th is there a way to make both pumps work right from 0 boost. What is the grey wire for??

Grey wire is for an optional primer button for bleeding air from fuel lines.
on edit: would be handy to have for priming filters at time of change as well
Diesel Tech would have to chime in on the rest

HAPPYEFP, what programming are you running? Some stacks are more proned to "lay down" than others. If you are running the juice in your stack, you may want to knock it down a level or two to see if it helps your times.