Since I was not able to find or hear of a good Mechanic in the area, I took my Suburban to the local dealer last month, where they diagnosed my problem as a bad IP and replaced it. The timing is set to factory specks now. It performs like a dog, has to be cranked longer to start, the engine vibration is still there if not worse, and sometimes on start up something sounds loose on the right side, but then the "thumping" goes away. And now I suspect the Turbo is not functioning. All that being said, I have resigned from the Dallas Fire Dept., and I am moving to Chicago next month. Now fear I am going to get stranded along the way, let alone that I am not sure I should or could even pull a cargo trailer like I planned....I need some quick advice or some suggestions on where to go & what to do. Thanks Again Chris

1. Do you have a Service Engine light on?
2. Check turbo: wastegate actuator arm sucked and impossible to move by hand.
3. Check harmonic balancer on the front of engine crankshaft. Check for the rubber puking out of it, or full of dirt or something.
4. Hard start always? Just hot, just cold or both?

Check the turbo's waste gate arm at idle. It should be immovable with ~15" Hg on the line.

The thumping sounds like a precup banging inside the head.

Low power hard starts could be timing related.

The Service engine light was on when it went to the dealer, it was the IP code. The Harmonic Balancer was replaced approx 6 months ago, to help the vibration, but it didn't help, and now seems to be worse with the new IP. I checked the wasstegate arm and it can't be moved when at idle. While not as important to figureout there is the annoynance of the long starting cranks at all temps. But, when at operating temps, and I go through a drive-thru, for example, and have to turn it off to be heard, when I then try to start it back up and its been less than 30 sec's or so, it turns over very very slowly like it does not want to start.

That sounds like a poor battery connection. Cut the plastic back on the GM terminals and clean them of all oxidation/corrosion and the terminal post too.

Yes, I had had those problems before I am using top-mounts now, but will check and see if they are needing any attention. Now if I could figure out the rest, or at least find somebody who could.

If Batteries and cables are good, then that pretty much leaves only the starter.

What year model is your burb?
What makes you say there's no turbo? black smoke?

1998 Suburban k2500

DSG this is good info for us to help you, please update your sig as per welcome notes so you don't have to keep us guessing & we can better assist you in troubleshooting.

Is your air filter clean?

I have a K&N also. Just to see if it made a difference I just went out and put on a extra non-k&N and drove it around. I can hear the turbo whine more now that the regular filter is on, but the power & smoke level is pretty much the same as best I can tell.

Hmmm.... Well the turbo is atleast functional or you would have black smoke pouring out the exhaust and severe lack of power.

Did they replace the fuel filter when they changed the pump? Check supply pressure?

Can you describe the vibration you are having? is it only at idle? Hot Cold?

They did replace ALL filters when the IP was replaced.

The vibration is a constant and strong "buzz-like" vibration is the best way I can describe it. I would love for someone besides myself to witness it (dealer said everything was in spec.) It is like the engine is a giant vibrator. For example, when you lightly put your foot on any of the pedals you can feel the "buzz vibration" or touch the steering wheel. When you touch the engine or eng. components or even the turbo you can feel the vibration, a vibration fine enough that doesn't make anything shake or move in an unusual visual manner. It's definitely NOT a shake, but rather, more like a vibration an electric motor might make when not properly restrained. Even all the mirrors vibrate so the view is blurry when you look out of them at idle. It is pronounced at idle because there is no vehicle movement etc, but the vibration is still present while driving at hwy speeds. The vibration was there before the IP was replaced, but I was so hoping it was that the IP that was the cause.
:confused:

When i had bad injectors on my 94 & 95 i had a slight vibration that i could only notice at idle or when on high idle of 1100 rpm, it was not noticable above that, had a shake similiar to what you are describing. Maybe, maybe not but another thought to add to the pool.

Have you tried starting it with the belt off to see if it is one of the accessories or idler pulleys?

This vibe you are experiencing is it occurring at idle or while driving, if while driving; is it possibly a driveline problem you are feeling as opposed to one coming from the engine?

Something else that sounds like crap pass side of the engine is a loose turbo heat shield, just after start up with engine cold put hand on turbo heat shield and see if knocking dampens out, I thought I had a bad piston in mine until GMCTD shared this with me on a vist to his place

The vibration occurs while at idle as well while moving, and it's definately a vibration and NOT a shake. The compressor is new, the tensioner is new, the pully is new, the harmonic balancer is new...all in an attempt to get rid of the vibration. I haven't recently done the "belt-off" test, could the pwr steering pump or alt cause such a strong vibration? The heatsheild is not loose.

Removing the belt is the cheepest test you can do. If it still shakes then you know its not the accessories. I had a hum for months and found it this way. When I replaced the "new" belt with another new belt it quit.

check torque converter bolts and maybe flywheel bolts.

Is it for tightness that is to be checked? I never thought about checking those before. Not knowing what to look for, will a regular mechanic be able to check that? What exactly am I too tell them to inspect?

You can check converter bolts yourself through the converter shield. Flywheel much harder. Flexplate could be cracked to. Have you ran it with the belts off?

Today in the middle of my trip to Chicago, the "service engine soon" light came on and my Auto PC & Navigation system stated the code was PO 236, turbo boost circuit problem. Wonder if the vibration could be caused by the vacuum pump as well and what sounds like either a cracked piston or an exhaust leak. Before I take it to the dealer in Chicago, anyone know a good 6.5 Diesel Mechanic in the area?. Thx, Chris

chris, when you replaced harmonic balancer did you compare key ways and timing grove to see if they lined up. they should have looked the same, any difference could indicate damage somewhere else. vibration could have caused problem also. best

Trouble shoot your vac/solenoid/lines. That system has no longevity.

Unfortunately, I personally didn't do the replacing, it was done by a local mechanic, and all he told me was everything seemed okay. I am taking it to the dealer tomorrow I think, that's why I am trying to be as informed as I can be about what it could or couldn't be. Seems I have two (2) issues, just trying to see if they COULD be related. 1st, the severe vibration, and 2nd, the lack of power and new 236 code.

Reichert Chevrolet (crystal lake) has a diesel mechanic that is pretty good.. i used to take my truck to them and still do if the repair is beyond something i can do myself.. where are you at near chicago? i'm in the area and would be more then willing to drive out and give you a hand.. get back to me or send me a PM if you need a hand or directions anywhere i know a few other GOOD chevy dealers but don't know about their Diesel Mech.

Brian

Hi Brian:

Thanks, I will PM you. I am in an apartment at the moment till I find a house. I am west of Chicago in Glendale Heights, just west of Lombard and north of Wheaton. I think Crystal Lake is far north of me.

Chris' suburban was showing a DTC236 (over/under boost) it was cleared but the problem did not go away i thought it may hve been stuck in limp mode.. however this was not the case.. the Waste gate actuator functions fine.. and vacuum is good.. i also disconnectd the vac. line from the actuator to make sure the turbo was functioning correctly this resulted in even less power.. there is a Tapping/exhaust leak sound coming from the vacinity of the turbo.. it is completely different from the normal diesel sound.. and nothing i've ever heard on my truck.. chris told me the engine had been rebuilt recently and has a new IP i'm going to try and get out there this weekend with a scanner so i can watch the live data as he drives..

as far as the noise goes i'm wondering if the downpipe may have worked its way loose.. however i dont see any extra soot in the area.. but it does smoke out the back pretty bad (looks good but performance sucks) especially for a stock exhaust with CAT and muffler still on... its definately being robbed of power.. any suggestions with this new info would be great..

Brian


EDIT:
Engine was not rebuilt it was torn down though, Crank & bearings replaced.. other then that everything was fine.. 1st mechanics were greedy and said block was hosed.. it wasn't however and these were the problems that needed to be fixed.. just to clarify although the engine was fully disassembled and put back together it was not "completely rebuilt"

How about a rocker arm-pushrod-lifter problem. That would account for the tapping noise. Maybe they did not get the pushrod in the rocker arm correctly.

Just a thought..........possibly the intake rocker arm.

Or perhaps the crossover is leaking on the turbo's side.

It does not sound as much like a metallic tapping noise, as it sound like compressed air sort of the "whomph whomph whomph" noise that TEXAS DIESEL GUY described in December in a post "STRANGE NOISE" about his new injectors, never read if there was ever a resolution to his issue. Somehow that noise seems to be connected to the vibration, but not sure if the vibration is connected to the low power I am experiencing.

Chris, plan on heading up north this weekend.. might be easier than adam and i coming to you.. plus access to all the tools.. either way hopefully we'll get this fingered out this weekend

I will be there without a doubt. Just email me the directions etc. Thx Chris

Tex found a loose glowplug, iirc and then put in a 5068 IP/Prom and said it was gone.

Hopefully we can check for that tomorrow. Also, when I take off the cprv when its running you can hear the "whomph..whomph..whomph" noise even better if that means anything.

Tex found a loose glowplug, iirc and then put in a 5068 IP/Prom and said it was gone.
Loose glowplug caused cyl contribution fault code on that hole. The 5068 HD PROM/pump fixed the surge completely and gave an appreciable gain in power.

I still have a 'whump' in the exhaust, I think its a bad lifter, but I haven't had a chance to go in and find out.

Hopefully we can check for that tomorrow. Also, when I take off the cprv when its running you can hear the "whomph..whomph..whomph" noise even better if that means anything.

Pull the upper plenim and look down each intake runner as far as you can, see if 1 of them is blackend with oil/soot, mine was on the 00 while the rest were clean, new heads seemed to fix the whoompa noise, i just wish i'd had the old heads tested to know 100% for sure what the cause was.

The heads were taken off and checked, the only thing that was found needing replaced were the plastic retaining clips, and I think those were replaced just as a safeguard since the heads were off, but with my luck that could have been done improperly. I am wondering if adjusting the timing of the New IP will help with the performance problem?

Chris
adam will have his scanner back by wednesday.. coming out here friday evening would be best thing for us.. give me a call when you get a chance if you wanna talk or need another time.. (his punk ass was in the dells all weekend and didn't tell anyone) sorry boss

Brian

I had the same problem last week. The engine vibration noise. It's very clear when another motorist is beside or passing though a bridge. I fixed it by changing the vaccum pump.

Hmmm, did your pump seem to be providing enough vaccum? Mine seems to have enough vaccum. What kind of noise were you hearing?

When your standing in front of the truck it sounds like a loose heat sheild vibrating, something loose for sure.
I drove it to the Dealer. They told me it was the vaccum pump, that can fail anytime now.
Got home, changed it in 1 1/2 hours. ( Couldn't get the pulley off the pump tho :mad: )

Would be nice if that were the solution to the problem. Hopefully I can get some answers Friday.

To day when starting the Suburban I rev'd it up and when I did it felt like it was cutting out almost like it feels when you get close to redlining it. Not sure if this too can be related to the vaccum pump. ANYONE?????

Did it smoke when it was cutting out?
I would like to help, if only I were closer....even Abilene is still quite a drive.

There is some smoke present, but it is not billowing like my 6.2 can be, but still there is some smoke all the same. I just forget what is normal. As I recall, before all this trouble, smoke would be present ONLY upon the hardest acceleration.

My two new friends here in Chicago: Chicago TDP and Bagalac checked the IP timing and found that is was -1.30 of TDC. Can this cause the vibration and lack of power?

-1.3 is a good number, did they try relearning to verify that its correct and not an old value?

Hey BurnbenGuy, things got mixed. When we scaned the truck, it can up with a -0.4 TDC timing, not -1.3. -1.3 is Bagalac's and his is fine. Urs does not seem fine. Just clearing that up.

-.4 is good too.

ok, here is the scoop. BurbenGuy came over to my casa and I plugged in my m4000 Matco scanner and away we went to drive around and watch some live data numbers. The truck shakes at idle and feels like it is out of "time" maybe or posibbly a dead cyclinder. Then, there is the nocking, thumping, thwomping or whatever internally at mid rpm range. The truck then has no power either. Going up a grade, watching the numebers on the scanner, the truck does not accelerate at full throttle, just smokes black exhaust, and the scanner says it is at 100% efficency, 160 Kpa boost and 380 Lb-ft of torque(I think that maybe those torque numbers are jsut calculated with boost, fuel supply and TPS %). I dunno now. When I saw that the timing from TDC was -.4 instead of Bagalac's -1.3, I thought that would be it. I dunno now. I think a compression test might be in order but the side that I really want to check is the turbo side and that is a lot of work to get to taking the turbo off and all. But the truck really does not get out of its own way and BurbenGuy said it best when he told me that my 52 hp 1982 VW 1.6l Diesel Rabbit would beat him:eek: .

Take an Ohm reading of all cylinder's gp's with the engine warm at idle, that will give you an idea which cylider is hot or not, or even use a thermal gun on the exhaust manifold.

good idea, that can be done easily. Will try to help BurbenGuy with that this week sometime.

Sorry for the confusion from my earlier post. I am available anytime, just tell me the day, even Sunday.

The truck shakes at idle and feels like it is out of "time" maybe or posibbly a dead cyclinder.
Then, there is the nocking, thumping, thwomping or whatever internally at mid rpm range.
has no power...and does not accelerate at full throttle, just smokes black exhaust...160 Kpa boost
Rough idle, engine noise, good boost pressure, no power black smoke.
Sounds like a valve train problem to me, but it would have to be really bad.
Compression test is a good place to start, but it sounds like internal engine problems.

That's my fear. The problem is nothing is overtly suggesting any one thing. The smoke is bad, but not the worst I have ever seen. The noise does not seem metallic, but some sort of compressed air in it "whomph whomph" sound that is contained inside the engine on the right side.

Ulitimately I took the Suburban to the dealer in town last week. The Service advisor stated that the IP timing was way off, and adjusted it stating there is now more power, but there is still black smoke present and further investigation will be done. This morning he called to state the the fuel filter housing was full of a jelly like "fungus" and needed to be replaced at a cost of $621.00, YIKES!!! He stated that they are talking with GM's technical assistance department, and they say that this can be a factor in both the smoking and low power problems, but no guarantees, except for a large repair bill. Anyway, I dont have a garage or shop to do any work myself since I just moved to the area, so I am sorta backed into a corner here, and reluctantly told him to go ahead, hoping I am not getting screwed. The housing will arrive tomorrow. I guess I will findout more news then. Still no word on the vibration or the noise on the right side of the engine.

null Your toast. They are going to rake you over the coals. Look for more bills on the way for sure.

Yikes. I called last week out of curiousity to see what the local two dealers would charge to change the lift pump. $360-380. between the two of them. I picked up a new lift pump, fuel cap, and fuel filter, changed it, road tested it and had it delievered back to the customer within 90 minutes start to finish, at just about half of that. And, had the batteries tested to boot.

Stealers take their liberty in liberating you from your money.

Is that a comment on using a dealer or that they are replacing the housing or both? Just trying to see if what they say is possible. I am in a new city, didn't know where to go, and now without a vehicle so I am trying to do the best I can here.

How did they come up with the idea to change the housing? Why not clean it? We clean out our junk when it gets in there. What's their problem, labor costs with a paper-towel exceedes the cost of the filter housing? What gives? It's like throwing out your trash can when it gets dirty.

Please don't misunderstand me. I have short patience with those who needlessly spend other people's money; take great delight in it or do so out of ignorance. Either the previous, the latter, or both in most cases.

Okay, rant over with now.

May want to consider some tank additives. Biological growth seems to be forming in your system sounds like.

May want to see how far away some of these guys are from you. We need to rename this place - Texas Diesel Place. :) Someone may be willing to help you out.

Make sure you get the old part and ask why it could not be cleaned.

Check out these two places. Both in Dallas / Authorized Stanadyne / Drive in Service

Diesel injection Service 1-800-658-9333

and / or

http://www.mddistributors.com/

Listen to dieselpro and the other guys!!! I had a lot of work done along with with my injection pump last year. They also replaced the fuel filter cavity, lift pump, wastegate solenoid, and other things but didn't leave me feeling screwed like I think they are trying to do to you. Take your truck somewhere else

I am in the west suburbs of Chicago now, the dealer working on it at this time is a different dealer than the one in TX that actually replaced the pump. The service advisor stated that the previous dealer didn't time the pump correctly (which CHICAGO TD & BAGALAC helped be findout initially), and obviously missed the problem with the housing as well. My problem is that I am told that the housing is so full of fungus that it must be replaced, as it can not be adequately cleaned. Is this BS? I do use additive from time to time. I am still trying to get a diagnosis on the vibration and the noise on the right side.

They replaced mine because they said it was to dirty to clean also. BS or truth, I don't know.

I guess we both will at least have the clean housings. What problems did they say your dirty housing was causing? Did it cost $621 (including filter)? Just curious

Long story shortened. My truck had 123,000 miles on it but had been stalling off and on for months with no engine light. Finally died and wouldn't run. Dealer can't find codes but said they tested the pump itself and it was out of spec. I asked if they could help but eventually got a "no, but call this gm service #". The woman I got patiently listened to my story and said she would be just as upset as I if this happened to her. While I waited on the line she talked to the dealer and came back on and said "how does a $200 deductible for a new pump sound?" I was thrilled. She said that they had already done some other work and would I be ok with that? It ended up costing me $580 including the $200 for the pump. They replaced the lift pump, filter cavity and lines, and wastegate solenoid. All in all, I was happy with the end result. I have the newest pump and PMD at the end of the extended warranty.

Did you ever do that compression test?

Never did a compression test. I guess things got more involved than my friends (Chicago TD & Bagalac) north of me, really had time to deal with, but I certainly appreciated the time they did give me. I gave the service advisor all the symptoms, they are choosing to work on the fuel system first I guess. If this doesn't fix the problem, hopefully that will be their next course of action.

Spoke with the Service advisor just now. He reports that when they were replacing the housing. they noticed the lines had rust and sediment in them, and feel that these things were sent into the IP. GM authorized another IP to replace the one that was put in last month. I am of course still responsible for the new housing cost. Also, he stated that he believed the vibration and noise have been caused by this. I disagree, but can't seem to get them to do anything out of the order GM Tech assistance is telling them to do it. The vibration and noise were there before the newest IP, its just that it seems to have gotten more pronounced SINCE the newer IP was installed.

The fuel tank should be drained and the injectors might need to be serviced and cleaned too. Isn't it that when a fuel injector gets clogged, it will make a "noise"? This might be the noise that you hear. If that stuff got though to the pump and into the injectors, you might have one clogged on the passenger side making that noise. Why did the water sensor in the fuel filter not go off with that fungus in there? Wouldnt it make it trip the sensor?:confused:

That's my fear. The problem is nothing is overtly suggesting any one thing. The smoke is bad, but not the worst I have ever seen. The noise does not seem metallic, but some sort of compressed air in it "whomph whomph" sound that is contained inside the engine on the right side.

What you describe as this sound, sounds just like every valvetrain problem I have seen in a 6.2/6.5L
the 6.5's being the worst about it.
either the plastic retainer for the rocker arm has broke, and allows the rocker to slide over on the shaft, not operating the valve.
Or, a vavle spring has broke. very common, see lots of them like this.
the outer spring breaks, the inner one is still good, and even a veteran diesel mechanic will miss it unless you look very closely at all of them, after removing all the rocker arms.
Normally they break close to the base, and it sits down just enough to not hold the vlave closed fully. real hard to spot. Not uncommon to see it 3 or more times a month around here.
I bought an old 6.2 truck from a customer (wasn't at the time) who had it at other shops, injector pump, lift pump, injectors, lines, etc. replaced over and over. finally bought a different truck cause he needed one to use.
then he found my place, brought it by here trying to sell it off.
bought it cheap, put one used valve spring on it froma junk head, and drove it a year before I sold it.

If you get the truck back, or can talk to who is working on it.
have them run it with the intake off, block off the exhaust with plates (any shop should have a set made up) hold your hand or a red rag wadded up (kep ahold of it tight!) over each intake port, the cylinder with the problem will not pull the ragagianst it, but spit it off the prot instead.

Talked with the Service Advisor. He stated the new IP was put on this morning and the engine ran great. The #1 & #4 cyl that were misfiring previously, were firing properly, and engine was running smooth, then the #3 cyl became dead. He stated the he was now going to take the head off and inspect to see if a valve spring is bad. So hopefully I will know by the end of the day.

Sounds great glad things are really starting to turn around for you... sorry i couldn't be of more assistance.

-brian

Thanks Brian, I appreciated your previous help......turns out there is a Broken valve at the number 3 cyl. Is that good luck?

Wow, more involved than I thought. Good that an identification of the problem was found. Sounds like that truck is gonna be a happy truck once again :)

Thanks for your help too Adam.

I am hoping this will be it for a few years. I can only imagine what the final bill is going to be.

Talked with the Service Advisor. He stated the new IP was put on this morning and the engine ran great. The #1 & #4 cyl that were misfiring previously, were firing properly, and engine was running smooth, then the #3 cyl became dead. He stated the he was now going to take the head off and inspect to see if a valve spring is bad. So hopefully I will know by the end of the day.

DON'T take of the head to fix a broken valve spring. that is tons extra work, and not needed.
never seen one mess up a valve yet.
Brian.

There is no possible way other damage could have occured to the head or that some other damage resulted in the breaking of the valve?

Your getting the shaft again. Run, don't walk away. RUN! Tow it to a reputable shop. No way you take a head off to check for a broke spring. More likely scenario - they dropped something down the intake. Your getting to much bogus nonsense from them.

I already owe over $800 for the housing and diagnosis, now I have to tow it off???? TO WHERE???? Man what a nightmare, I don't even have a job here yet.

Do you actually know how much you owe them? Did you ask for an estimate on the head work? If you say nothing, they think lets take this guy for everything. Well, they think that anyways.... Sorry unless I know them I don't trust them. This just sounds way to messed up. Ran good and smooth and then broken valve? I'd ask them more questions about the money aspect so that they know where you are at. See how much it would be to take it like it is now. Then you may have to take it somewhere else which may save you $$ in the end. Tow it if you have to.

We feel for you. So thankful that I have the skills and garage that I do. Not to say I don't get into binds also. Good luck. May GM have mercy on your vehicle!
Dave

That filter housing was twice what my dealer quoted me.

No, they haven't put in any new injectors yet. I will call tomorrow and get an exact price. Can I tell them to just fix the valve without taking off the head?

Their diagnosis is way below aceptable. You need another shop. If they pull the head it's going to cost you dearly, cus they know your not going anywhere. Don't play by their rules, they already stuck you for a filter housing, good grief. A valve spring can be changed without taking the head off.

Where you located?

I agree, this is just going from bad to worse, truck isn't getting fixed, they're just lightening your wallet for you.

I defy any dealership to show me a filter housing that you can't clean. You don't replace dirty parts, you replace broken, worn or unserviceable parts.

I've done a handful of them with water/rust contamination.

Takes maybe half our to remove it, take it apart, sand blast it, rinse, reassemble with new gaskets and reinstall. I think we charge a half hour labor or something, so 40 bucks (CDN) vs. 600???

I am in the West Chicago area at the moment.

The Service andvisor didn't say he was removing the head to replace/repair the valve spring, he said he was removing to see if there were any damage done to it from the underside as a result of the spring being broken. I had asked earlier if that was a legitimate concern.

what dealership is it at?

Sunshine Chevrolet on North Ave. Service advisor is Lou Gutierrez. It was the only Dealership close enough for me to walk or get a ride to the Apt.

""The Service andvisor didn't say he was removing the head to replace/repair the valve spring, he said he was removing to see if there were any damage done to it from the underside as a result of the spring being broken. I had asked earlier if that was a legitimate concern."
__________________
He does not have to remove the head to replace the spring...so if he replaced the spring first, then did a compression check he would know there was not enough damage to worry about, If the valve seat or valve were damaged enought to warrent replacing them then a compression test would show it. I've yet to have seen an engine with a broken spring (in 18 years in the trade) that you could'nt just replace the spring, unless the keepers fell off and the valve dropped into the cyl.
Sounds to me as if they are taking the most expensive route they can find. Likely it is not a very experienced tech working on your veh.

Spoke to the service advisor just now. I asked him about the valve spring and he said that either he mispoke or I misunderstood, but it was the actual Valve that broke. He stated the removal of the head is to see if there was any damage done to the cyl head. Does this sound more legit?

I sure hope it gets fixed quickly and they don't stick it in too far bud.. Good luck!

You and me BOTH...I appreciate the kind words:)

What is the worse case situation here from sucking in a valve. Bad piston, head, block?? Would the other 7 cylinders keep the motor running, even though the one cylinder was in self destruct mode?? What a noise that must be. Hope they shut it down quick. I'm thinking maybe it's time to start looking for a new motor :(

When the Suburban was taken in ONLY the #1 & #4 Cyl were misfiring, NOT the #3. After the replaced the filter housing & put on a new IP, #1 & #4 fired fine and the engine ran fine for a few minutes per the Service advisor. After that is started to misfire again, and upon inspection it was found that the #3 cyl was not firing. They took the valve cover off and found a broken valve. To my understanding it was not run too long. But I wasn't there so I don't know. Does that clear anything up?

Dropped something down the intake would be my guess.

I'm curious how they determined which cylinders were "misfiring"?

Were they getting cylinder balance codes? Didn't you scan it just before you took it to them?

Yep, but I don't recall getting any of those. Chicago TDP and Baqalac will have to respond to that one.

he had absolutely no codes.. the only code he's every thrown (as far as we could look in the history) was a 236 and when i met him he had a live 236 other then.. he was fine.


Brian

My Matco 4000 scanner read no misfire codes. The way that I have to test for a bad cylinder is by turning off each injector through the scanner and seeing if that injector makes a difference or improvment in performance.

We didn't do that I don't guess. I hope the Tech at the dealer did that. Not sure how else he'd know, I just gotta believe they wouldn't make it up and be so specific. But at this point I haven't a clue. Nothing will be dont till Tuesday anyway so it will sit for a few more days.

Service advisor says its going to cost me $1600 dollars to fix the valve. In addition to the $625 for the housing assembly.

U just hold onto your money. This can be addressed for a much lower cost. Let me get in touch with a friend to keep this in budget here. The job is not that difficult. Keep your wallet closed.

The Service advisor called stated that the total amount due to tow it off with the new housing & current teardown etc was going to be $1000. He said for $200 more = $1200 he can fix the valve too. I gave him the OK hoping that would be the easiest. Hopefully it will be done by Thursday evening.

I think you should wear a pair of waders next time you go up there. Gettin pretty deep.

So from $2225 down to $1200 with one mention of towing? :confused:

Valve? Are we talking that little piece of plastic called a rocker retainer? Known point of failure?

Ask for the old housing, thank you very much, I will not be returning. I'll pay you for your diagnostic, and go out the door. 'Cause the rest is on you BooBoo. If you can't troubleshoot it, don't be charging to learn by the hour.

"Run Toto, RUN!" Dorthy said as the money tornado chased them both out of the dealership.

Its not the clips this time, that I had done last year. Its the valve. Basiaclly once I get the truck I will NEVER return to that dealership. Basically its $1000 to tow it out or $1200 to drive it out. So the $200 is worth the ability to drive it out.

Wow man, you didn't get it fixed quickly AND they stuck it in too deep.. sorry to hear about your pain.

STILL Ask for the old parts and why it was bad?

Yes! Ask for the old parts. If they can come up with them. The sudden switch in price is a shocker. Seem's they found a sudden cure for your problem. I still think they are going to pull some more purse strings before your out the door. Suggest going in there with a clip board and a digital camera. Start taking pictures, asking questions, and start jotting things down. They might get the message your not going to go easy and drop some of those bogus charges. Ask why the valve failed when they where working on it. Still think they dropped something down the intake.

TOTAL $1199.91 Won't be able to pick it up till next week when I get back to Chicago. The Service advisor said it runs like a champ, but that there is still some smoke on accelleration. Could that be caused from build up from before when it was smoking so much? Will it clear as I drive it?

i say who cares if it smokes,,.. its not smoking as much as your wallet must be, i seriously suggest writing to GM about the mysterious Valve Breaking, i agree i think they dropped something..

if it hauls.. drive it and out of there quickly.. if you want i'll drive out there and compare it to my 6.5 and let you know if it seems doggish at all.. just get it out of there we'll get some gauges on that puppy and a i'll whip you up a turbo master, and then we won't have to worry about smoke anymore..

if theres anything i can do to help you get back in your truck let me know

-Brian

Have them fax you a bill then post it so we can dissect it before you go get it. Should make an interesting post.

Ask for the parts. We wants to see parts. Pictures of parts. Parts, parts, parts.

Unfortunately they have me by the proverbial balls. I NEED my truck. I have been without it for almost three weeks. I was forced to fly back to Dallas over the 4th of July weekend (price one of those last minute tickets on the 2nd busiest travel days :eek: ) and now have to fly back to Chicago to pick it up so that I can drive it back to Dallas to pick up a trailer full of stuff. So the $1200 was only the tip of iceberg for this financial mess. The only part that I'm getting back is the Housing, which I will take a picture of as-is. I will post the invoice when I pick up the truck.

Brian, I will give you a call when I return. I am also bringing my 2nd alternator so maybe you can help me with that, maybe it wont run, but it WILL charge.

You shoulda taken it to abilene ;) Dad knows how to treat people right.

Make sure the phone number is on the invoice, maybe we could all call the service department and starting asking a whole bunch of questions. Opps, sorry wasting my creativity on mean things. . .

BE sure to use a C/C to pay for it. That gives you much more power to correct something or get a better resolution if things go bad and you need some help

Pick up your Suburban yet?
Dave

Sure hope it works out O.K. School of hard knocks stinks.

Pick it up late Tuesday night when I got into Chicago. Drove it to Texas yesterday. I don't know what to think. I sure can't tell much if any difference in performance. Unfortunately whatever increase there is I can't enjoy because now its LOUDER than ever, the "whomph whomph" noise that was once ONLY on the right side seems to be coming from another location as well, its like the engine has an muffled exhaust leak everywhere. Could this be caused by the IP? And the noise seems to coincide with the slight miss that was there before. I do have the assembly, haven't examined it, I am sure that is gonna piss me off too. When I take it out I will take pictures.

What the funk, sounds like things are getting worse.

I used to love the heck outta this truck, its hard to remember that feeling now days, all I get is poorer & a sick feeling when I have to drive it.-:t
WOW, never thought I get or have to use THAT smiley

Sorry to hear that, but I can understand what you mean. You said you where coming to Texas? Maybe you can take to Abilene like what TDG said? Either way I hope you the best and that every thing works out for you.

The SES light is blazing in all its glory again. Its the 236 code. Was going down the freeway at 60 mph when it went off. The power is down and the thumping noise seems to be up. I GIVE UP, I cant even have a week without a problem.

If it is the turbo, u could get a boost gauge and watch it to if you do get a low boost at high rpm.

Earlier I went to check the wastegate actuator arm while it was running, and ulike before it would move about and inch with my finger. While driving around the SES light went off so I am not sure WHAT is going on.

Baqalac...will your home made turbo master fix this?

Wastegate arm should not be able to be moved at idle. Sounds like you have poor vacuum at the actuator. Wastegate silinoid, vacuum leaks, or vacuum pump. . . pick your lucky part? Money is on the 'noid, more than likely. Check all to be sure.

hey suburban yeah it will fix it but i strongly suggest you run a boost gauge if you plan to install this.. let me know when you get back in town and i'll whip one up for you.. i'm actually planning on making some much nicer ones so let me know when you're back in the area..

brian

really can you make extra's for others too???????

I'm working on making 1 for me this weekend, but I don't what the spring strength should be? Bagalac what type of spring strength are you using, and If you have a pic of the spring can you post it?

The SES light is back on just driving around town. Its a real dog. My problem is that I was needing to pull a trailer that was my purpose of getting the work done to begin with. Is there some temporary thing that I can do? Wonder if I am gonna have to buy a turbo master or DSG boost box?