Dealer wants to charge $581 for this job, including new parking brake shoes. Is this quote high or about right?

Probably do it yourself for under 100$ in parts and a few hours of labor.. Nothign really difficult, they have a write up under teh DIY section i do beleive.

Probably do it yourself for under 100$ in parts and a few hours of labor.. Nothign really difficult, they have a write up under teh DIY section i do beleive.


He's right. I bought the axle nut socket ($20), oem seal ($40), locktite (blue), and several cans of brakekleen plus a bag of rags all for under $100. I took my time and it was an easy afternoon job. Read the DIY section for pointers and common things people miss, like the inside seal race from the oem seal that needs to come off also. You should have a torque wrench and also a 1/2" breaker bar or pipe to go over a shorter ratchet to get the caliper bolts off.

Thanks for the replies. I'll look in the DYI section and take a look and see whether I can NOT screw this up if I do it myself......

Or find a friend, or a friend of a friend willing to do it for 100$.. You'd still be well ahead money wise and have a little more confidence thats its done like it should be? I'd do that job on the side for 100$ easily, your talking an 1.5 for a trained tech to do it, maybe.

Did mine this past weekend. In my case, I DID NOT need the socket. The bearing nut is not very tight. My total cost was $25.
Also, from what i've heard the OEM seals are crap. Most seem to be getting aftermarket seals. Thats what I got. The OEMs are 2 or 3 piece I think. Atleast it came into 3 pieces when I took mine out! HAHA!! But the aftermarket ones are one piece. They look just like a regular oil seal.
Total job was about 4 hours for me. I did both. So I would say that $500 is BEYOND rediculous for this!!! That dealer needs to be shut down. Along with many others!

Jeremy

No the socket really isnt needed. The nut is not anything more than finger tight. You want zero lash on the bearings(no movement) but very little preload. Same thing with trailer wheel bearings and such.

I strongly urge you to use the composite seal from napa made by SKF. It has quite a forgiving nature as to how smooth the axle tube must be. Plus it has a reinforced rim to allow hammer installation. The seal mentioned above lips up to the axle tube itself and is very unforgiving to defects in the tube mating area.

Napa Axle seal 28554
Napa axle flange gasket 55350

I recommend purchasing the socket also. The recommended install is: coat the seal with oil around the inner and outer rubber mating portions, beat the seal into the hub (make sure you didn't forget the bearing in there), install the hub onto the axle and torque the axle nut to 50lb/ft (to seat the seal and the bearings), then loosen the nut, followed by installing the nut to Zero torque (finger tight), then install the lock and retainer, install the axle, torque the axle stem bolts to 150lb/ ft.

My Napa socket required rounding of the 6 ears to allow mating to the nut.

I concur with everything Heymccall said. You have to seat the bearings correctly otherwise you're looking at a big $$ repair later down the road.

I strongly urge you to use the composite seal from napa made by SKF. It has quite a forgiving nature as to how smooth the axle tube must be. Plus it has a reinforced rim to allow hammer installation. The seal mentioned above lips up to the axle tube itself and is very unforgiving to defects in the tube mating area.

Napa Axle seal 28554
Napa axle flange gasket 55350

I recommend purchasing the socket also. The recommended install is: coat the seal with oil around the inner and outer rubber mating portions, beat the seal into the hub (make sure you didn't forget the bearing in there), install the hub onto the axle and torque the axle nut to 50lb/ft (to seat the seal and the bearings), then loosen the nut, followed by installing the nut to Zero torque (finger tight), then install the lock and retainer, install the axle, torque the axle stem bolts to 150lb/ ft.

My Napa socket required rounding of the 6 ears to allow mating to the nut.

I concur with everything Heymccall said. You have to seat the bearings correctly otherwise you're looking at a big $$ repair later down the road.

Listen to these two.

I concur with everything Heymccall said. You have to seat the bearings correctly otherwise you're looking at a big $$ repair later down the road.
It's actually more about ensuring full seating of the floating, 2 piece seal. Without seating the seal, the axle bearings will not be set correctly.

The one piece old style seal that lips to axle is definitely a less durable, less reliable seal.

He's right. I bought the axle nut socket ($20), oem seal ($40), locktite (blue), and several cans of brakekleen plus a bag of rags all for under $100. I took my time and it was an easy afternoon job. Read the DIY section for pointers and common things people miss, like the inside seal race from the oem seal that needs to come off also. You should have a torque wrench and also a 1/2" breaker bar or pipe to go over a shorter ratchet to get the caliper bolts off.

Were would you buy the axle nut socket for $20
You would need the GVAWR REAR for the proper size of socket would you not.
I have the GMC Dmax. K3500 dually 1 Ton 11.5 axle, the mfg. sticker on the door says GVAWR REAR is 8550Lbs.
So what size of socket do i need..

Thank ....

My Napa sold me a KD Tools socket P/N 2770, for $22. I had to round the square cut teeth slighty to make it work, BUT the nut will come off your truck without the socket. Then, you can see where to slightly round each tooth.

I strongly urge you to use the composite seal from napa made by SKF. It has quite a forgiving nature as to how smooth the axle tube must be. Plus it has a reinforced rim to allow hammer installation. The seal mentioned above lips up to the axle tube itself and is very unforgiving to defects in the tube mating area.

Napa Axle seal 28554
Napa axle flange gasket 55350

I recommend purchasing the socket also. The recommended install is: coat the seal with oil around the inner and outer rubber mating portions, beat the seal into the hub (make sure you didn't forget the bearing in there), install the hub onto the axle and torque the axle nut to 50lb/ft (to seat the seal and the bearings), then loosen the nut, followed by installing the nut to Zero torque (finger tight), then install the lock and retainer, install the axle, torque the axle stem bolts to 150lb/ ft.

My Napa socket required rounding of the 6 ears to allow mating to the nut.

Are these part #s the same for a dually?

I think so, but not positive.

Subscribing, especially after the "gods" have put in their $.02.

Are these part #s the same for a dually?
I don't have any '02 Duallies, but Napaonline says it fits. PN 28554
List $25.49



Who are these Gods????????????????:hail::knight:

Anyonw have any diagrams like I've came across for everything else on here. They are so helpful. Diagram for the process please....

From our very own DIY section

Axle seal Part 2 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=372697&highlight=axle+seal)

And Axle seal part ONE (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84927&highlight=axle+seal), BUT do not use the seal in part one. You want to buy the seal in part TWO (the first link I gave)