I found my leak and it is bad. I have water running down the driverside front of the head. It looks like my water pump is the problem but you can't really see the water pump that well. What all is involved in changing that sucker out. If it is a gasket should I go ahead and change the pump while I am at it? Some one told me I had to take the dampner off to get the water pump off and that I would need a special tool to hold the flywheel so I can get the nut off the dampner. What is the whole story guys? I called around and no one has a tool for this. My filler tank will go empty just sitting with the engine off in about 10 mins.

I used this, this is for an lb7 but they are the same

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214076

You guys are some bad dudes if you got that dampner bolt to just turn off. I am 6' tall 210 pounds and I have a 3/4 break over bar with a 3' plumbing pipe cheater and I bent the pipe. I bent two peices of pipe and then tried a 4' peice of square tubing and bent that also. I pulled and push until I thought I was going to blow a gasket. When it was all done I sprayed it with corrision-x and came inside. Maybe tomorrow I will get it loose. I would put heat to it but I am scared I will damage the seal.

Some place the breaker bar with a pipe and then bump the starter over a little-- they say it works great. Never seen it done, but seems like it could work! :D

Remember it has to be torqued back --- about 250 lbs--?? .

does it have reverse threads? I am pulling towards the passanger fender

The treads are right hand-- (standard direction)

If you are at the bottom and pulling toward the passenger tire, that is the wrong way! You are tightening it. :rolleyes:

If you are at the top and pulling toward the passenger tire, that is the correct direction. :D

That sucker is tight! :eek:

I have worked on heavy trucks and tractors and I can tell you that has got to be the hardest I have ever pulled on anything. The only thing I saw tighter then that was the pinion nut on my F350. I put a high lift jack under a break over bar and lifted half the truck before I got that nut to break loose. I also had the nut cherry red with a torch. Getting the fan off was a walk in the park , I just put a pipe wrench on it and hit the wrench with a hammer.

I ground a notch in my 36 mm socket and had my son pull on the 4 foot cheater pipe while I hammered the socket with an air chisel. It is the tightest bolt I have seen in a while. But that did the trick.

with any luck I will get it tomorrow with my friends help.

I'd say you must be lucky to have it that tight. Didn't take too much to get mine off. I had a 4' pipe just in case, but wasn't even close to the end of it when it came loose.

Good Luck!

Well I got it done after screwing up a balancer and waiting around for the dealership to get a new one in. A balancer cost 250 bucks in case you where wondering. I replaced all the O-rings on everything, flushed the system, and changed both therms. With any luck I will be good for a while now.

Oh the balancer bolt was tuff. I had a cheater that was so long it just cleared the hood. My friend is 7' tall 315 pounds and he pulled on that bar until the bolt came loose. I thought he was going to tear the engine out of the motor mounts. If you can't find a 12 point 36 MM a 1 7/16 will work.

For anyone else in future: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80057.

Soaked mine with PB Blaster, waited 30 mins, used the procedure in the above link, monkey wrench, 2ft pipe over it, few blows into the pipe end (towards passenger side) and in 10 mins it was loose. I guess I scored just one lucky point.

Someone up there is watching.