On my truck sometimes when its cold it seems to take a while for the transmission to grab when you put it in reverse. One time I tried to count and it was about 4 or 5 seconds from when I put the lever in R to when it went into gear. It doesnt do this all the time and it seems to only do it when its cold when I first fire it up. Anyone have any ideas on why it would do this? I just put in new shift solenoids filter and fluid.

That's usually been the beginning of the end for my auto trannies...

post it in the transmission section. Top of the page

Make sure the fluid is full. When did you change it last time?

nsbu switch?

This same thing happened to me awhile back. All I did was get my trans serviced at the dealer and it was over. Something about the valve bodies getting clogged. I chose the dealer because they use a bg cleaner with the flush. 20k later still no issues.

Make sure the fluid is full. When did you change it last time?

About 2 weeks ago I put in new solenoids because it wasnt shifting. I put in a new filter and fluid.

I'm Assuming you didn't get the valve body or the torque converter cleaned out. It really needs to be really clean. Flushing the syst is the only way to ensure it's all fresh fluid. Or replace the valve body.

another option I have had good luck with on GM transmissions is the lucas transmission stuff. Had a trans barely shifting and shifting hard. Used that, and it went away and shifted good. $10, worth a try if you think the trans is toast.

Is it possible that you didn't remove the old seal for the filter? 2 seals is not better than one. A pressure test may be helpful.If there isn't enough hydraulic pressure to engauge. A malfunctioning or not functioning input speed sensor can cause low trans pressure. A scan tool can tell you the commanded pressure and actual pressure along with what all the other tranny sensors are seeing.

I'm Assuming you didn't get the valve body or the torque converter cleaned out. It really needs to be really clean. Flushing the syst is the only way to ensure it's all fresh fluid. Or replace the valve body.

I was always told never do a transmission flush, I guess people think is will trash your transmission.

Is it possible that you didn't remove the old seal for the filter? 2 seals is not better than one. A pressure test may be helpful.If there isn't enough hydraulic pressure to engauge. A malfunctioning or not functioning input speed sensor can cause low trans pressure. A scan tool can tell you the commanded pressure and actual pressure along with what all the other tranny sensors are seeing.

I didnt put in the new seal where the filter goes. The old one didnt want to come out and I looked at it and the old seal look good and the filter fit up in there nice and tight.

I don't say flush, I said change. Drop the pan, change the filter and fill it with new fluid. If you want to flush, do the cooler line flush by taking out the return line from cooler and turn on the engine and get the fluid out of the TC that way. Measure the fluid, stop the engine after 2 qts and fill with 2 qts, repeat till fluid comes out clear. Make sure you fill it to the full line which may take a hot engine idling to get to proper level.

NO FLUSHING MACHINE!!!!

I don't say flush, I said change. Drop the pan, change the filter and fill it with new fluid. If you want to flush, do the cooler line flush by taking out the return line from cooler and turn on the engine and get the fluid out of the TC that way. Measure the fluid, stop the engine after 2 qts and fill with 2 qts, repeat till fluid comes out clear. Make sure you fill it to the full line which may take a hot engine idling to get to proper level.

NO FLUSHING MACHINE!!!!

Thats what I did was pull the pan and put in new fluid and filter. I figured instead of doing the transmission line thing like you said I would just change the fluid again, maybe in the spring. That should have most of the dirty junk out of it.

A tranny flush (with the machine) is good in one sense since it swaps the fluid in the torque convertor as well, a straight drop and fill can't do that. But it's not uncommon for leaks to appear after. I haven't heard of anyone having actual tranny issues after a flush, but I'm sure they're out there

A tranny flush (with the machine) is good in one sense since it swaps the fluid in the torque convertor as well, a straight drop and fill can't do that. But it's not uncommon for leaks to appear after. I haven't heard of anyone having actual tranny issues after a flush, but I'm sure they're out there

In farm show magazine there is always people in there who say they had a tranny flush and a few thousand miles later the transmission is toast. There are a couple who swear the flush made there junk transmission work like new. Maybe some people pump the flush stuff in it and leave it and thats what junks them. I guess you need to take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

A friend had a new ford truck and he took it to a quick lube. The kids there pulled the plug on the transfer case and never filled it up. That was like $3500 to have it fixed.

A tranny flush (with the machine) is good in one sense since it swaps the fluid in the torque convertor as well, a straight drop and fill can't do that. But it's not uncommon for leaks to appear after. I haven't heard of anyone having actual tranny issues after a flush, but I'm sure they're out there



I took my high powed truck for a spin and going from reverse to OD it takes a while to shift into OD or R. But it only did it when it was cold, Its like 35 deg out and it only did right away. After a 2 min drive I went back forth in it again and it shifts right away.

Haha quickie lube...worked at a couple back in the day, they hire anyone off the street, they want salesmen not mechanics. "sir your air filter is dirty, better replace it". Most of them are incompetent to begin with and know nothing about cars. The screw ups I saw would scare you away from those places forever

I hate to say it but the Lucas snake oil isn't a bad idea...I've used it before, it often does extend the life of a dying tranny substantially. It doesn't sound like your tranny is all that bad yet though, if it even is going bad. Could be fine for years to come. Do you warm your truck up for a bit before taking off or just slam er in gear and go?

Call Mike L. @ Inglewood Transmissions:

714 870 7300

He could probably help you better than anyone to my knowledge.

Haha quickie lube...worked at a couple back in the day, they hire anyone off the street, they want salesmen not mechanics. "sir your air filter is dirty, better replace it". Most of them are incompetent to begin with and know nothing about cars. The screw ups I saw would scare you away from those places forever

I hate to say it but the Lucas snake oil isn't a bad idea...I've used it before, it often does extend the life of a dying tranny substantially. It doesn't sound like your tranny is all that bad yet though, if it even is going bad. Could be fine for years to come. Do you warm your truck up for a bit before taking off or just slam er in gear and go?


My jimmy I fire it up and haulass, even when its -30 out. The 6.5 I fire it up and let the oil pressure come up and the glow plugs run a cycle ater you start it. Once the glows go out I put it in gear and go. I dont drive it in the winter, the jimmy is my winter ride. The 2wd truck gets stuck in wet grass, no way Im going to drive around on our icy roads.

Have you checked the fluid level again. It happened to my camry when I just changed the fluid. Turns out, I need slightly more fluid like 1/2 quarts. It is not easy to judge the level from the dipstick.

Also, what fluid did you use?

By the way, Ford is famous for transmission problem, it occurs more often than the GM. I know a few Taurus and Mazda 626 with Ford transmission that has gone bad around 100k miles.

The tranny fluid does circulate at idle, next time see if warming it up for a couple minutes helps

Have you checked the fluid level again. It happened to my camry when I just changed the fluid. Turns out, I need slightly more fluid like 1/2 quarts. It is not easy to judge the level from the dipstick.

Also, what fluid did you use?

By the way, Ford is famous for transmission problem, it occurs more often than the GM. I know a few Taurus and Mazda 626 with Ford transmission that has gone bad around 100k miles.

It may be a little low, its hard to see clean fluid on the dip stick. Its lite the dipstick on my craftsman tractor. It wont leave a nice line where the level is.

I cant think of the name if the fluid. I'll have to look tomorrow.

The tranny fluid does circulate at idle, next time see if warming it up for a couple minutes helps

Providing the ATF is full the 2nd most common cause it hard rubber.:eek:

New fluid and some additive may buy you some time.;)

What about royal purple synthetic fluid?

My jimmy engine is wore out so I put synthetic in it and been driving it wore out for years now. There was probably 3/16" or wear on the cylinders.

Use Amsoil ATF, it should be good and last a long time. RP is favorite among racer but it has not perform as good as it should be as synthetic.

Add a little bit of fluid and see if the delay still there.

Use Amsoil ATF, it should be good and last a long time. RP is favorite among racer but it has not perform as good as it should be as synthetic.

Add a little bit of fluid and see if the delay still there.


Ill check it tomorrow and add some flui. I didnt get home till dark so I couldnt really check it.

Haha quickie lube...worked at a couple back in the day, they hire anyone off the street, they want salesmen not mechanics. "sir your air filter is dirty, better replace it". Most of them are incompetent to begin with and know nothing about cars. The screw ups I saw would scare you away from those places forever

I hate to say it but the Lucas snake oil isn't a bad idea...I've used it before, it often does extend the life of a dying tranny substantially. It doesn't sound like your tranny is all that bad yet though, if it even is going bad. Could be fine for years to come. Do you warm your truck up for a bit before taking off or just slam er in gear and go?

If it works, which it does, its not snake oil

My jimmy I fire it up and haulass, even when its -30 out. The 6.5 I fire it up and let the oil pressure come up and the glow plugs run a cycle ater you start it. Once the glows go out I put it in gear and go. I dont drive it in the winter, the jimmy is my winter ride. The 2wd truck gets stuck in wet grass, no way Im going to drive around on our icy roads.

I always let mine warm up to the point that the temp guage starts moving. Always was told not to drive a diesel until warmed up.

I always let mine warm up to the point that the temp guage starts moving. Always was told not to drive a diesel until warmed up.

I was always told once the oil pressure was up your good to go. Im sure there was a thread started on this.

If it only does it when the temps are low,I think it is a sticky/gummy valve. I would pour in a can of Sea Foam TransTune . It doesn't swell seals like other products on the market designed to "fix" your trans problems. If that doesn't do it ,possibly the variable force motor not allowing high enough line pressure. You could install a pressure gauge in the trans line to read pressures. But sounds like a sticky to me.;)

If it only does it when the temps are low,I think it is a sticky/gummy valve. I would pour in a can of Sea Foam TransTune . It doesn't swell seals like other products on the market designed to "fix" your trans problems. If that doesn't do it ,possibly the variable force motor not allowing high enough line pressure. You could install a pressure gauge in the trans line to read pressures. But sounds like a sticky to me.;)
When I pulled the pan off I drained out like 2 gallons or more but I onlu put in a little over 1 gallon. I checked it today and took it out for a spin and checked it again and the level seems fine.

Does auto zone sell this seafoam stuff? Alot of places around here sell the engine seafoam but Ive never seen the transmission stuff.

When I pulled the pan off I drained out like 2 gallons or more but I onlu put in a little over 1 gallon. I checked it today and took it out for a spin and checked it again and the level seems fine.

Does auto zone sell this seafoam stuff? Alot of places around here sell the engine seafoam but Ive never seen the transmission stuff.


I haver to ask:eek: did you check the level while running?

I haver to ask:eek: did you check the level while running?


I checked it running in drive at full throttle.:eek:

I checked it running while it was cold and I took it for a short drive then checked it again. Cold it was a little over the cold mark and after the drive it was about right in the middle between the hot and cold mark.

Need to be at the top of the hot mark when hot not middle.

Need to be at the top of the hot mark when hot not middle.

It was only like a 3 min drive so I dont really think it was fully warm.

All it needs was idling, you should be able to determine the level.

What I notice it is hard to tell with new fluid but if you have some delay issue, fluid is low. Air is still in there, so level will go down some more.

If you took out 2 gallon and only fill 1 gallon, you are 1 gallon short.

That is a lot of short fluid then you complained about delay.

It is up to you, we can argue all day long. I am not a mechanic just logical engineer so what do I know.

If you took out 2 gallon and only fill 1 gallon, you are 1 gallon short.


Or the bozo who had teh truck before my over filled it.


That is a lot of short fluid then you complained about delay.
How can it be short of fluid when its above the full mark?

I checked for codes and got 85, I cleared it and drove it and it didnt come back. I drove it for a while and got it good and hot, its right at the hot mark.

I was told by a couple of trans mechanics that it is best to check fluid level cold. Different brands may have different expansion rates?

Just what I heard.