So... while I am at SEMA, I will have direct access to Optima's management. They want to hear from you guys... so much so that they are going to host a roundtable discussion with their senior management. What questions, comments, or suggestions do you have for Optima?

From personal experience, as well as many others over here, it appears as though the Optima "quality" has slipped through the cracks a little. What are/have they done to improve the quality of their product, or are they pleased with what they currently produce? They just don't last like they used to.

From personal experience, as well as many others over here, it appears as though the Optima "quality" has slipped through the cracks a little. What are/have they done to improve the quality of their product, or are they pleased with what they currently produce? They just don't last like they used to.

That's an excellent question - can you quantify that with some real numbers? For example, their batteries used to last 5-7 years, now you find them only lasting 3-4 years or something like that?

I can tell you I just replaced a 4 year old Red Top. Stopped for lunch, came out and she was dead. Sorry Ill replace it with an Odyessy

How about according to their website they do not offer a battery for Chevrolet Silverado's.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y236/98S70R/optima.jpg

?

I can tell you I just replaced a 4 year old Red Top. Stopped for lunch, came out and she was dead. Sorry Ill replace it with an Odyessy

I agree. I replaced mine with DieHard Platinum P2 which are supposed to be made by Odyessy.

Haha yea ask em why they cost so much and last so little. I had one go out after couple years too.

That's an excellent question - can you quantify that with some real numbers? For example, their batteries used to last 5-7 years, now you find them only lasting 3-4 years or something like that?

First one I purchased around 2000 lasted over 5 years, and could still be running just fine for all I know. I sold it.

Got one in 2004 for my Avalanche. It lasted 1.5 months, and got replaced for free, but it's a quality control thing. $170 for a battery should last longer than any other batteries on the market for half that price, but that's not the case. I thought it may just be bad luck, but the replacement ended up only lasting a little over 2 years. Could have got another Optima, but applied it toward an Energizer, and got cash back.

For the price, I have not heard good things about these batteries. I would use them if they were competitively priced.

Thing that surprises me is the price... especially considering that we have to buy two of 'em. Will I experiment with a couple of batteries that typically cost 2x the price of comparable batteries? Not likely. I found at least 5 batteries that are 7 year batteries with specs that read comparable to Optimas... and are between $50 to $80 cheaper. Now multiply that by 2 and I'm going to save between $100 and $160. Especially if the Optimas potentially have no better life expectancy than the competition?

What am I missing here? The websites I checked indicated that the Optima batteries are 3 year batteries? I must be missing something here.

i went through 3 sets in a matter of 4 months both red tops and yellow tops....replaced with interstate batteries and i have no complaints....the optimas couldnt even deal with 20 degree cold...once frozen, i figured i could thaw them...nope

That's an excellent question - can you quantify that with some real numbers? For example, their batteries used to last 5-7 years, now you find them only lasting 3-4 years or something like that?I haven't had any failures on my yellow tops - but hear repeated reports from members on multiple forums about their experiences with short life - like less than a couple years - including some lasting less than a year. Mine are over 6 years old - 1 in a boat that sits all Winter unplugged in as low as -20 temps and one in a camaro that get's started about 1 time a year. I am very happy with mine but a bit concerned from the other reports about getting another yellow top or set for my truck- still running the origional Delcos in it.

I Had a Red Top that only lasted 13 months, I spent the Xtra Cabbage and Upgraded (I thought) to a Yellow Top, After about 13 months it too was dieing fast. It seems that a 105 amp alternator isn't enough to charge them, you need an alternator that can top 130amps an top off all the other loads that the truck draws, if your A/C, radio, Running lights etc draw 40 amps then you need a 170+ amp alternator. Next time (probably this week) I'll buy a Diehard or even a Walmart Special.

...

i got one for my firebird last year. i drive it usually once a month, except for last week where i drove it all week. very hard starting. in fact, i can't try to start it while the fuel pump is priming. things don't charge easily either.

i have two in the truck only because there's no place close to find Odyssey batteries and my truck likes to eat "wet" cell batteries. had 2 Napa Golds, both leaking all over the place and were 19 months old. red tops been on there for 4 or 5 months...no problems yet.

Thing that surprises me is the price... especially considering that we have to buy two of 'em. Will I experiment with a couple of batteries that typically cost 2x the price of comparable batteries? Not likely. I found at least 5 batteries that are 7 year batteries with specs that read comparable to Optimas... and are between $50 to $80 cheaper. Now multiply that by 2 and I'm going to save between $100 and $160. Especially if the Optimas potentially have no better life expectancy than the competition?

What am I missing here? The websites I checked indicated that the Optima batteries are 3 year batteries? I must be missing something here.


You're correct - They no longer have the 84 month "pro-rated" replacement - Only 3 year free replacement - after that you're SOL. I won't buy another optima and pay $150+ for a single battery until they up the warranty. I think wal-mart has a standard 34/78 group battery w/84 or 96 month warranty, 3 year replacement for $75. My next "new" battery purchase will be either a die hard platnium or other equivalent spiral cell battery with a warranty.


I've got one red top going on 5 years now, the other went out in 4 years - I replaced it with a yellow so I'm running one new yellow (cost me $43 after warranty) and 1 old red (new oct 2005).


From what I can tell once they shipped production out of Colorado and south into Mexico the quality went to *#&#$(#.

Had my red tops for 8 months, and the tops are warped, and bubbling up. I wont buy them agian.

I had an optima that lasted 6 years. My new ones have already gone dead once after only one year. They don't seem to like the cold

Ask them if they are building them in China, or did them import Chinese here to build them to Chinese standards. When they first came out years ago, they were a great, if not the greatest battery. Bought my last ones about 3 years ago and they did not last a year. Everybody I know that has bought them in the past couple of years hates them and will never buy another. Actually, Costo's Kirkland turns out to be one of the best rated batteries, stays stronger (for winching, etc) longer, has arguably the best warranty with the least trouble, and costs less. Such a deal. Optima is a has been.

Ever since johnson controls took over about 3 or 4 years ago the quality has gone down the toilet,I had four older ones in my jet boat,no problem,got a new boat ,got a brand new 31 group for it lasted a few days and was shot,got a sears plantium agm works like a champ.no more optimas for me

Hello, I noticed this thread had been resurrected and I wanted to help answer some questions. I apologize in advance for the length of my reply, but there is a lot of ground to cover. Johnson Controls purchased Optima in 2000 and the quality of our batteries and production process has continued to improve under their ownership. All of our batteries are now built in a state-of-the-art facility in Mexico and we are the only people who build them. None of our batteries are ever re-labeled or sold under a different brand name.

Most of the “bad” batteries returned to us today are just deeply-discharged and work fine when properly recharged. Most battery chargers cannot charge any battery that has been discharged below 10.5 volts and most flooded batteries cannot be recovered from such a deep state of discharge. This video explains how to recover a deeply-discharged Optima-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIoaL3DWWEg

Kevin, there are more than 60 different automotive battery group types and unfortunately, Optima does not offer “exact-fit” replacements for all of them. We are also very conservative in what we consider to be a direct-fit replacement. Some people have used a RedTop 35 or YellowTop D35 in ’07 GM trucks, but we consider that a custom-fitment, as it does not meet our guidelines for an exact-fit replacement. Specifically, the hold down at the bottom of the battery was a concern and something must be done to make sure the battery is secured properly. We do not currently have an adapter or spacer to address this issue, although many of our customers have successfully handled this issue and might be able to share their experiences with you.

If you are using an Optima battery in a custom application, it is important to consider the following:
· Hood Clearance – There should be at least ¾” clearance between the top of the battery terminals and the underside of the hood. When we do our fitment studies, we put a ball of clay on top of the post, and VERY carefully close the hood to make sure that nothing makes contact. By measuring how much the clay is squeezed down when the hood is closed, we know how much hood clearance we have.
· Trunk/Interior Mounting – If your battery is mounted inside the passenger compartment or trunk, the battery must be vented to the outside of the vehicle. Optima group 27, 51, 78, 34C, and 31 batteries all have ports for connecting a vent hose.
· Side Terminals – Optima 34/78, D34/78, 75/25 and D75/25 batteries have both top and side terminals. If you are using one of these batteries in a vehicle that uses the top terminals, it is important to ensure that the side terminals can not come into contact with anything metallic (for example, the firewall or fender well), thereby causing a short.We suggest keeping the post protectors on the terminals you are not using. Do not connect a winch to the side terminals.
· Battery Modifications – Cutting, drilling, trimming or otherwise modifying your Optima battery may present a safety hazard and will void the warranty.
· Mounting – Your Optima battery must be securely mounted. The terminals are not intended to be used to secure the battery. Using the terminals in this way will damage the battery and void your warranty.
· Heat – Protect your battery from high heat, such as turbochargers or exhaust manifolds

Dogs Dogs Dogs, I assume when you call our battery a “3 year battery,” you are referring to the length of our warranty. If that is the case, you are correct. All new YellowTop and RedTop batteries come with three-year replacement warranties. If a battery does fail due to a manufacturing defect, it is likely to occur within that time span. When shopping for a battery, it’s a good idea to review the terms of the warranty, as some begin pro-ration the day the battery is purchased, while others exclude batteries that have been discharged below 10 volts. You can read our warranty information here- http://www.anrdoezrs.net/image-3193639-10410539http://www.optimabatteries.com/optima_products/warranty/ (http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-3193639-10410539?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.optimabatteries.com% 2Foptima_products%2Fwarranty%2F)
We claim our batteries can last up to twice as long as traditional flooded batteries. Johnson Controls is a very conservative company and wouldn’t allow us to make that claim, if we couldn’t back it up with hard data.

Some common causes of premature battery failure include mis-application. If your vehicle is relatively-stock, RedTops will work just fine. My Excursion sits outside all winter and always starts without issue. However, if I were using a winch, plow, large stereo, car alarm or significant off-road lights, YellowTops would be more appropriate for my truck. Many aftermarket electrical accessories will create a parasitic drain on a vehicle, even when it is parked. Over time, this can discharge a battery and lead to failure. The typical “key-off” load for most vehicles is about 25 milliamps. If your vehicle’s key-off load exceeds 100 milliamps, there is an electrical issue that needs to be addressed. This video explains how to perform this test- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yPlx4MBNRU

GOGO, I’m concerned about the condition of your Optimas, as what you’ve described usually occurs when batteries are overcharged. I’d like to help sort out your situation. Can you please PM me with more information about your batteries and the vehicle they are in? If anyone else has any battery-related questions, I’ll do my best to answer them. I appreciate your interest in Optima batteries!

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)

P.S. Randy, I hope you’re feeling better!

Hey Jim... so glad to see you guys responding to the questions, comments, etc. from our membership. Thanks for the in-depth responses... and, BTW, I am now sporting two new knees, and they're both feeling better every day. :D

I have actually had good luck with the optima red top batteries. After twin turbo's I ran just 1 for a while. With the other I had it in my wifes mustang and it ran just fine. I came home from Iraq (6-8) months and recharged the other red top that was sitting in my garage. Evertying seemed fine.

The military has them in many of their generators. After much abuse I have seen them recharge just fine.

No problems so far, but I may just have the "old" batteries or just good luck (on batteries).

As for the price goes, I know all batteries have gone up. However, I don't know if I could justify the cost anymore when I find other alternatives with positive feedback. Especially if I found one that was made in the USA (regardless of how "state of the art" the facility in Mexico is)... I have not done my research yet, but when I need a battery I will sure check.

Randy, this may be a good weekly poll topic: What batteries do you run, and a checkoff off for all electrical modifications made.

OptimaJim, when you get a chance, check your private messages.

I have 2 Exide Optima batteries, no issues

Is there any change Optima will be extending a Pro-rata warranty beyond the 3 year free replacement? (as was the case a few years ago)

Hi Daryl, Randy and I were both at the SEMA meeting in Las Vegas, when the subject of pro-rated warranties was addressed by Cam Douglass, Optima’s director of product development and marketing. The main reason Optima changed their warranty, was to simplify things for both our customers and retailers.

Utilizing a pro-rated portion of a warranty will cost a consumer money, sometimes even if the battery fails after the first month of use. Some others battery manufacturer’s warranties are voided entirely if a battery is discharged below 10 volts. Our hope is that the simplicity of our warranty will result in better overall customer satisfaction.

Pro-rated warranties do allow battery manufacturers to advertise longer warranty periods, but the actual value to consumers diminishes significantly over time, especially for warranties that begin pro-ration the day a battery is purchased. All of our new YellowTops and RedTops now come with three-year free replacement warranties. The YellowTop warranty increase to three years free replacement is substantial, as it was previously one year free replacement and two years pro-rated.

If there is a defect in a battery, it is likely to manifest itself well within the warranty timeframe. That said, the best warranty is the one you never need to use. Most batteries we get back are only discharged, and I see misunderstanding and misapplication of batteries every day. A big part of my job is to help consumers better understand how to use and take care of their batteries, so those issues can be minimized.

If you have any other questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)

Exide Orbitals have a 40-month free replacement and 108-month limited warranty.


Logically why should we buy an equally good product w/ less warranty?

I think if you had a $170 battery and it failed on the 37th month you'd be pretty ticked off having to purchase a new one. I know I would. I'm not knocking your product but if the warranty was good enough on the older batteries why isn't it good enough now? Sounds like a cheap way to cut costs at the expense of the consumer.

Red's bad, been there done that.

Exide Orbitals have a 40-month free replacement and 108-month limited warranty.


Logically why should we buy an equally good product w/ less warranty?

I think if you had a $170 battery and it failed on the 37th month you'd be pretty ticked off having to purchase a new one. I know I would. I'm not knocking your product but if the warranty was good enough on the older batteries why isn't it good enough now? Sounds like a cheap way to cut costs at the expense of the consumer.

X2

Hi Daryl, if all batteries were the same, the combination of the longest warranty and the lowest price would be the most logical choice. However, there are significant differences between flooded and AGM batteries, those that use recycled lead, versus those that use pure, virgin lead and other significant variables. Even within the warranties themselves, there are differences. Some warranties begin pro-ration immediately, while others have numerous exclusions or may require the battery to be shipped back to the manufacturer for claims.

Smaller companies like Kia and Hyundai will often use longer warranties as a marketing tool to attract more customers. If you are warranty shopping, those manufacturers might be your best choices. If other factors weigh into your decision, you may consider additional brands, like Chevrolet or Ford, who may not offer the same warranty coverage. The fact is, the factory free replacement warranty period for RedTops is still three years and has not changed. The factory free replacement warranty on YellowTops has increased from one year to three years and BlueTops have increased from 18 months to two years. If we were trying to cut costs at the expense of our customers, we could just as easily lengthen our warranty period and add early pro-ration back into the fine print.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)

Exide Orbitals are the same construction as Optimas aren't they ?? (dry,can be mounted upside down, yada-yada)
I'm usually a big fan of Interstate Batteries and will look at them,Exide, or Optima Yellow tops when the time comes.

Hi JD4440, some batteries use intercell welds, which join adjacent cells together through the plastic partitions separating the cells. Optima uses a continuous cast part to join adjacent cells, with no welds to add resistance or corrosion points between the cells. This allows the Optima design to use taller internal components, called elements (or cells) and generally results in higher electrical performance characteristics, because there is more active material present.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)

I see your new warranty policy in a different light.
You state:

fact is, the factory free replacement warranty period for RedTops is still three years and has not changed
When in fact it has drastically changed because the old warranty was:

36 Months Free Replacement, Remaining 36 Month Prorated
The warranty is basically half of what it used to be especially if the battery fails at 37 months like was previously posted.




The YellowTop:
The factory free replacement warranty on YellowTops has increased from one year to three years
That's not entirely true either. The old warranty was:

D31A, D31T Commercial 24 months free replacement.
The D34/78, D75/25, D34, D35, D51, D51R Automotive, LTV, Commercial batteries were warrantied for:

12 months free replacement, remaining 12 months prorated




Now the Blue story:
You state:
BlueTops have increased from 18 months to two years
Which is true, but they used to be rated for:

18 months free replacement, remaining 18 months prorated
Which is better only if the battery dies in that 6 month period. If it goes bad after 24 months you SOL!!!
The other problem with your new warranty policy is that if a battery is replaced, the new battery will only be warrantied for the balance of the original warranty. On a pro-rate system if you have to pay at least the warranty will start over. This definitely benefits the customer if the battery goes bad shortly after the free replacement period is up.

I did buy a set of red tops about 6 months ago and have been semi happy.

Like GOGO i too have had one of the batteries bubble on the top. It also will hiss if i try to charge it with any of my chargers and will hiss after long trips. The other battery has none of these symptoms under the same conditions. I am sure that i will be having to replace the one at some time in the future however it does not register as bad when i take it in.

I am not sure i would buy optima again since 1 of the 2 had some sort of defect i am more comfortable purchasing a lower cost product.

Hi Nohto, I apologize for not stating that I was specifically referring to our consumer warranty. If you purchase quantities of batteries through a commercial account and this information was mis-leading to you, I apologize, as that certainly wasn’t my intent. The vast majority of message boards I post on typically deal with consumers, who are only buying one or two batteries at a time, for use in their own vehicle. The Group 31 YellowTops you referenced are only available to commercial accounts. I didn’t mention our warranties for batteries in series string applications either, because I didn’t think that was applicable for people on this board. If that’s not the case, you can review all of our warranty information here- http://www.anrdoezrs.net/image-3193639-10410539http://www.optimabatteries.com/optima_products/warranty/ (http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-3193639-10410539?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.optimabatteries.com% 2Foptima_products%2Fwarranty%2F)

As I previously stated, the factory free replacement warranty period for RedTops is still three years and has not changed. You quoted that comment, then posted that our old warranty offered 36 months free replacement, which it did and still does. I understand your point about the pro-rated warranty, but a pro-rated warranty and a free replacement warranty are not the same thing. That is a common misconception and part of the reason we eliminated pro-rated warranties. Pro-rated warranties cost consumers money, free replacement warranties do not. Unfortunately, some consumers only look at the length of the warranty and don’t bother to check whether it’s pro-rated until the guy behind the counter starts asking them for more money.

Our factory warranties have always started from the original date of purchase and have never been extended when a battery is returned. A warranty that renews with each returned battery would essentially be a “lifetime” warranty and might encourage consumers to intentionally abuse their battery and return it, just prior to the expiration of their warranty.

Dmaxmachine, your battery should not be hissing. Are these batteries run in parallel or isolated? Can you tell me what the voltage of the battery is when the engine is running? Thanks!

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)

No the RedTop warranty if purchased before 2/1/2009 was :
12V Passenger Vehicle / Light Truck (noncommercial):36 Months Free Replacement, Remaining 36 Month Prorated
Now it is just 36 month free replacement. There is no prorated warranty which no matter how you look at it the warranty is not as good as it used to be. Period!

No the RedTop warranty if purchased before 2/1/2009 was :
12V Passenger Vehicle / Light Truck (noncommercial):36 Months Free Replacement, Remaining 36 Month Prorated
Now it is just 36 month free replacement. There is no prorated warranty which no matter how you look at it the warranty is not as good as it used to be. Period!

Hello Nohto. Thanks for your opinion. Your point really proves how controversial pro rata warranties are. They may sound like your getting a lot more but reality can be different. Most people who have actually had a product fail during a pro rata period are actually disappointed in how the process works. If you go through the calculations when pro rata kicks in you will find that the consumer may not be getting the best deal. Sometimes the pro rata charge can be more than buying a new product! Optima decided to eliminate the confusion and elevate the overall product line's free replacement. Optima's commitment to quality and performance has produced year ever year decreases in actual product defects across the entire line.

Reality is that most true manufacturing defects for consumer automotive batteries will show up within the first 2 years. Demanding commercial applications show defects much sooner. Most battery failures after that are due to some other factor.


Whenever I'm buying something with a warranty I consider the following:
Buy the best product for the application first. Buying the perceived longest warranty is not always best. To me, the best warranty is the one I don't have to use.
Warranties are only as good as the company who stands behind them. Have they been around for a while? Are their dealers reputable? Are they local to you? Do they have tech support?
Understand the product warranty before you buy. How does it work and what is NOT covered?

__________________
Optima Batteries, Inc.
2007 LMM Crew cab, Shortbed, 4X4 with too much to list

Reality is that most true manufacturing defects for consumer automotive batteries will show up within the first 2 years. Demanding commercial applications show defects much sooner. Most battery failures after that are due to some other factor.


Whenever I'm buying something with a warranty I consider the following:
Buy the best product for the application first. Buying the perceived longest warranty is not always best. To me, the best warranty is the one I don't have to use.
Warranties are only as good as the company who stands behind them. Have they been around for a while? Are their dealers reputable? Are they local to you? Do they have tech support?
Understand the product warranty before you buy. How does it work and what is NOT covered?


Well take my most recent battery purchase. One of my red tops failed at 48 months almost to the day. Being a 78 month warranty w/ 3 years free replacement I got prorated for 30 months. I paid $45 w/ tax for a replacement battery that would have normally cost me $189.99 + tax for a new battery. It would be the same story w/ a new battery if it had failed at antying >36 months.

How is having a pro-rated warranty PAST the free replacement period a bad thing?

Well take my most recent battery purchase. One of my red tops failed at 48 months almost to the day. Being a 78 month warranty w/ 3 years free replacement I got prorated for 30 months. I paid $45 w/ tax for a replacement battery that would have normally cost me $189.99 + tax for a new battery. It would be the same story w/ a new battery if it had failed at antying >36 months.

How is having a pro-rated warranty PAST the free replacement period a bad thing?

DarlB,
I never said pro rata was a "bad thing". There are many great brands with good pro rata warranties. Most Optima customers told us they found that a solid free replacement period was more important.

If your situation was true, the dealer made a mistake in your favor. Or, they have a policy that doesn't follow normal pro rata quidelines. Typically, this is the way it works:

A battery with a 78 month warranty that has a suggested retail of $189 has a monthly cost of roughly $2.42/month. In your case, at 48 months, you used up $116.16 worth of the battery (48 X $2.42). You should have paid $116.16 for your new battery. The fact that the dealer either has a different policy or made a mistake proves how confusing this can be. Additionally, Optima RedTops never had a 78 month factory warranty adding more confusion....

Using your case again, try the calcualtion at the 70th month and tell me its a good deal. Remember that your warranty does not start over with the replacement battery....

CDouglass, you're not going to win this argument. Redtops came with a three year free replacement followed by a three year pro-rated warranty. Now they only have the three year free replacement.

Under the old plan, if my battery crapped out after 48 months, I would have to pay for a portion of the new battery.

Under the new plan, if my battery craps out after 48 months, I have to pay the full shot.

We all understand that a pro-ration gets smaller as the battery gets older, but under the old plan, we at least got some compensation after the initial three years. With the new warranty, we get nothing.


While I appreciate your efforts to defend Optima, you can't spin the new Red top warranty as a win-win. It's a win for Optima and a lose for consumers.

CDouglass, you're not going to win this argument. Redtops came with a three year free replacement followed by a three year pro-rated warranty. Now they only have the three year free replacement.

Under the old plan, if my battery crapped out after 48 months, I would have to pay for a portion of the new battery.

Under the new plan, if my battery craps out after 48 months, I have to pay the full shot.

We all understand that a pro-ration gets smaller as the battery gets older, but under the old plan, we at least got some compensation after the initial three years. With the new warranty, we get nothing.


While I appreciate your efforts to defend Optima, you can't spin the new Red top warranty as a win-win. It's a win for Optima and a lose for consumers.

Tom S,
Not trying to create or win an argument. Just trying to state facts. Some people like pro rata and some don't. For those that do, they should be fully informed on how it works.

Tom S,
Not trying to create or win an argument. Just trying to state facts. Some people like pro rata and some don't. For those that do, they should be fully informed on how it works.


Can you find anyone that can honestly say they prefer a battery with just a 3 year replacement warranty over one that has a three year replacement warranty plus an additional three years pro-rated?


Here's your cake. It's a much better deal than when we used to give you cake and ice cream. :cookoo:

Here's your cake. It's a much better deal than when we used to give you cake and ice cream. :cookoo:
):h

Can you find anyone that can honestly say they prefer a battery with just a 3 year replacement warranty over one that has a three year replacement warranty plus an additional three years pro-rated?


Here's your cake. It's a much better deal than when we used to give you cake and ice cream. :cookoo:

Tom S
I can honestly say that I see your point if all that we made were RedTops. It does look like we took something away. However, I can also honestly say that most people prefer a straight up free replacement warranty without pro rata confusion. In addition, most enthusiasts who modify there vehicle with a lot of additional electronics should be using YellowTops. I noticed the spec's on your truck and you should probably be using some type of deep cycle batteries. RedTops are probably not the right application for you. At the same time we dropped pro rata we increased the warranty on YellowTops from 24 month pro rata (one year free) to 36 months free replacement.

Now you can have the cake with ice cream, whipped cream and a cherry on top.:D

Dmaxmachine, your battery should not be hissing. Are these batteries run in parallel or isolated? Can you tell me what the voltage of the battery is when the engine is running? Thanks!

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)
Sorry for not responding sooner, been busy at work. For sure running in parallel but i dont have access to a voltmeter at the moment to check but the Cluster reads 14V while running and 12V while not running

How is this for a funny story, my 85 GMC 6.2l suburban has 2 Die hard golds in it, they are over 10 years old (1999) and they will take a charge fine and will start my 'burb all day long and love doing it. How is it that a 2 month old Yellow Top Optima will struggle to start my 96 Impala SS after sitting for a single day, yet AZ says there is nothing wrong with it. I do the same test with my 10 year old Die Hard Gold(which came with a 84 month warranty pro rated after 48 months) and it will start my car after sitting for 2 weeks. I think this proves there is no leakage from my car's accessories, and the DH Gold has a lower CCA than the Yellow Top. I was thinking of getting some deep cycle batteries for my DMAX since I am adding a winch and big lights, but in light of how optima keeps repeating the same ole story and don't wanna hear what consumers are saying, I will go with something with a known warranty. I am not trying to argue with the OPTIMA BATTERIES GURUS I am just stating my experiences with their products and how I am NOT going to be a repeat customer. My first Red Top lasted 4 years and may still be working in the car I sold, a 95 LT1 Camaro, but I will not be "cough" investing "cough" in anymore until their quality skyrockets.

Dmaxmachine, could you find a voltmeter or DMM? Either one would give a far more accurate reading of your voltage with the engine running, which is the output of your alternator. This measurement with your engine running should be in the range of 13.7 to 14.7 volts. A voltmeter would also be able to show the individual voltage of each battery. If we knew the output of your alternator and the individual voltage of each battery, when not connected to your vehicle, it would help narrow the focus of our attention.

Myfirstdmax, I’d like to see if your YellowTop is able to hold voltage properly. If nothing in your Impala has changed besides the batteries, would it be possible for you to charge your YellowTop with a regular battery charger until it reaches approximately 13-13.2 volts, leave it disconnected from any draws for 12-24 hours and then check the voltage again?

Cold cranking amps are important if you live somewhere cold. If you live in a more moderate climate, they’re less of a concern, as long as they meet or exceed the specifications of the OEM battery. Reserve capacity and deep-cycling capability are more important considerations for applications with extensive aftermarket accessories, including winches, lights and alarms.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)

Dmaxmachine, could you find a voltmeter or DMM? Either one would give a far more accurate reading of your voltage with the engine running, which is the output of your alternator. This measurement with your engine running should be in the range of 13.7 to 14.7 volts. A voltmeter would also be able to show the individual voltage of each battery. If we knew the output of your alternator and the individual voltage of each battery, when not connected to your vehicle, it would help narrow the focus of our attention.

here is what i got off the voltmeter. Battery1 12.2v Battery2 12.38v Both batterys hooked up and running. 14.38v

Dmaxmachine, I'll shoot you a PM to get more details on your situation.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)

had a yellowtop fail after ~8months, bought an orbital to replace it
warranty replacement is sitting in the shed. last thing i need is a battery suddenly dying in the middle of nowhere (what happened before)

Personally,

I have had 5 Optima Red tops. It has been so long since I bought my first one that I cannot remember when I bought it. I have moved my Optimas from vehicle to vehicle as I traded vehicles.

The Oldest has been in 6 vehicles for 10+ years.
I have only had one fail. I didn't keep my receipt, and Advance couldn't tell which one I was returning. They assumed it was an older out of warranty battery and did not honor the warranty (the battery was around 1 year old in my wifes maxima).

I have been overly pleased with Optima battery performance. Now I tape a ziploc bag to the side of the battery with the receipt and purchase date in it. My truck now has the factory batteries in it. I will decide what to do when they start giving me trouble, but at $100+ for 2 batteries, I won't be preventatively replacing them.

As for warranty. The easiest policy to defend was your original Red Top policy. As I understood it, and as stated above, 3 yrs free followed by 3 yrs pro-rated.

This leaves the loyal customer, that has proven his/her concern for quality by already buying an Optima with a consolation to soften the blow of a failed battery.
(Kind of like a discount for being a previous customer)

The danger is having a battery fail at 36-84 months having a customer that paid $100+ for a battery wish he had bought a $60-$80 battery (or 2) with a pro-rated warranty. He/she would have saved money up front, and at failure.

Recommendation for what I would wager would be a VERY POPULAR policy that would be a very strong marketing point.

36 month free replacement + $20 toward the purchase of a replacement Optima WHENEVER it fails.

Hi Mark, I’m sorry to hear about the problem you had with warranty service on your RedTop. Holding onto some form of proof of purchase is always a good idea, but the age of any of our batteries can be quickly identified by anyone.

Each of our batteries has a burn code, stamped into the side of the battery’s case. The first number indicates the year, while the next three digits indicate the day of the year. For example, batteries being built today are stamped “0109.” There is also a code offering similar information stamped into the lid. Finally, the serial number on the white, “non-spillable” label will also determine the exact age of any of our batteries.

We do provide all of this information to our retailers. Unfortunately, sometimes the people working behind the counter on a given day might be new or not properly-trained in that regard and I do apologize. If you have any such issues in the future, please don’t hesitate to contact me directly. I will also pass along your suggestion about the warranty and replacement rebate.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)

I have been very happy with my redtop in my old '77. It was installed in November of 2002 and still works great.

Have any changes been made to how the batteries are made since then? I was considering buying one for my '03.

Personally,

I have had 5 Optima Red tops. It has been so long since I bought my first one that I cannot remember when I bought it. I have moved my Optimas from vehicle to vehicle as I traded vehicles.

The Oldest has been in 6 vehicles for 10+ years.
I have only had one fail. I didn't keep my receipt, and Advance couldn't tell which one I was returning. They assumed it was an older out of warranty battery and did not honor the warranty (the battery was around 1 year old in my wifes maxima).

I have been overly pleased with Optima battery performance. Now I tape a ziploc bag to the side of the battery with the receipt and purchase date in it. My truck now has the factory batteries in it. I will decide what to do when they start giving me trouble, but at $100+ for 2 batteries, I won't be preventatively replacing them.



You've had one out of five fail? That's a 20% failure rate, and your happy with it?

You've had one out of five fail? That's a 20% failure rate, and your happy with it?

Disclaimer: These dates are not exact, but pretty close. I installed new batteries when I bought certain vehicles.

B1= In '99 I put one in a 1997 Camaro SS
B2= In '00 I put one in a 2000 GMC K1500
B1= In '02 I moved B1 to 2002 GMC K1500
B2= In '03 I moved B2 to a '96 Honda Accord
B1= In '04 I moved B1 to a '99 GMC K2500 W/T
B3= In '04 I put one in a '99 Maxima
B4= In '05 the one in the Maxima failed, I replaced it
B2= In '07 I moved B2 to a F250 V10
B4= In '07 I moved B4 to an '05 Lexus RX330
B5= In '08 I put one in a Buick Ranier


So:
B1 = 11 years no problems (3 different vehicles)
B2 = 10 years no problems (3 different vehicles)
B3 = 1 year and Failure
B4 = 5 years no problems (2 different vehicles)
B5 = 2 years no problems (Still in 1st vehicle)


So 29 years usage in vehicles with one failure. Not sure what kind of failure rate that is, but...Yeah, I'm pretty happy. ( I guess I'm a glass 29/30 full kinda guy) :)

BTW, I haven't changed the batteries in my '08 GMC D-Max yet. I'll probably wait until the factory ones start giving me trouble.

Also, I'm not necessarily "drinking the Kool-Aid". I realize that if any of these batteries fail, I will be at the parts house paying full price for a replacement.

Mark

I have been very happy with my redtop in my old '77. It was installed in November of 2002 and still works great.

Have any changes been made to how the batteries are made since then? I was considering buying one for my '03.

I'm glad to hear you've been happy with your RedTop (and Mark has been happy with his). We have built a new production facility since 2002 (you can watch the video here- http://is.gd/bB1b1) and we continually look for ways to improve the quality of our batteries. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries (http://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries)