I was performing the maintenance on my brakes to be sure that non are corroded and unable to slide (pads on the rattle clips and calipers on their slide pins) and I discovered that the inner of the front rotor is grooved at the top and the bottom about 1/16" deep X 3/16" wide. I would say 80% of the pad touches the rotor while the other 20% of the pad is grooved where the rust is on the rotor. The outside of the rotor and pad is in perfect shape. 2 questions.
1)Can I just swap the good pad to the bad side of the rotor and the bad pad to the good side of the rotor?
2)If you think I should get the rotor turned, can I still use my old pads? The pads have at least 3/8" left on them.

I was performing the maintenance on my brakes to be sure that non are corroded and unable to slide (pads on the rattle clips and calipers on their slide pins) and I discovered that the inner of the front rotor is grooved at the top and the bottom about 1/16" deep X 3/16" wide. I would say 80% of the pad touches the rotor while the other 20% of the pad is grooved where the rust is on the rotor. The outside of the rotor and pad is in perfect shape. 2 questions.
1)Can I just swap the good pad to the bad side of the rotor and the bad pad to the good side of the rotor?
2)If you think I should get the rotor turned, can I still use my old pads? The pads have at least 3/8" left on them.

To conserve your hard earned money, may I suggest the following:

The rotors must be uniform across the swept areas, THEREFORE, have yours turned (machined).

The pads must be able to contact the entire swept area, THEREFORE, your current pads can be block sanded square.

You ask about swapping the inner and outer pads......The outer pads have 2 wear indicators, whereas the inners only have one. To swap them, you will need to remove one offending wear indicator per pad set, else, the inner pad will not fit.

Thank you very much heymccall, I have been following your directions to the T. This is the first time that I have ever done this maintenance to my truck. After both my front wheel bearings went out at 55,000miles I was wondering why. Then I read your great info. I have only done one wheel so far. Any additional info? I also have seen dispute regarding the torque of the bracket bolts. You show 140-145lb/ft w/ locktite and I saw someone else say 221lb/ft w/ locktite.

Having just had the Torque sheet out for another question, I, too, noticed that front ear bolt torque was 221lb/ft, also. I have always used 150lb/ft and blue Loctite and NEVER had one loosen yet.


It's your choice, but I will continue to use the 150lb/ft on them.

Where i was really surprised was the slide bolts called for 80 lb/ft per, yet I've always used 50lb/ft and no threadlocker, and, again, no problems.

Thanks again heymccall! You answered my questions with the exact info I needed. I'm going to go back out to finish the job. Done and all better thanks!

any recommandations for removing the torx head bolts on the rear brake calipers? i need to do rear brakes soon and when i went to check the parking brake shoes. i couldn't get the torx bolts to budge. as with all my past car brake jobs, i'm assuming those need to come out in order to clean and lube the sliders. plus i noticed that the leaf spring is right in the way of the top bolt

You need to take the bottom bolt out (T-55 @ 80ft/lbs.)then the caliper can be tilted all the way up and rotated/slid out of place without having to remove the top bolt.

any recommandations for removing the torx head bolts on the rear brake calipers? i need to do rear brakes soon and when i went to check the parking brake shoes. i couldn't get the torx bolts to budge. as with all my past car brake jobs, i'm assuming those need to come out in order to clean and lube the sliders. plus i noticed that the leaf spring is right in the way of the top bolt

Using a torch, apply heat directly below the bolt head, using care not to melt the nearby boot. This will allow the bolt to be loosened. And like we said, leave the top bolt in, at least for now.