I've become a bit curious about a 1999 3500 Dodge RAM with a Cummins, 5speed manual, with about 47000 miles on it, offered for a good price.

Not knowing about Dodge or Cummins, I wonder if such a thing is anything I could consider to buy or if they are trucks you better keep your hands off for some reasons.

I'm minded to keep my Tahoe, but the Dodge is somehow very tempting ...

What would you say about these 3500ers? Anything I could/should read to make up my mind? Are there weaknesses I should know of and/or things to check out before buying? Anything on them that usually fails on that age and mileage? Durability?

Do they have solid front axles? What mileage do you get with them?

For sure drive the truck before you decide buy it. Most of the Dodge trucks need front end attention after so many miles. All that wieght from the diesel. However, since they are straight axle (4WD) the parts are fairly priced and usually easy to work on. My mechanical experience on that body style Dodge is limited more to the 1/2 tons, but I have observed similar things with the 3/4 tons. A side note, the older Cummins are noted for their longevity and fuel mileage. Something else to keep in mind.

Thanks for the info!

Which year would be best for longivety and fuel economy? And I think I could do as well with a 2500, don't really need a dually --- the things I want are a manual transmission, solid/straight axles, 4wd and the ability to tow my camper without running into overheating problems I'm possibly facing with my Tahoe. That is, I don't actually need the bed (except concerning road taxes, see below) to haul great loads, but something more durable. I could spend some money on my Tahoe for cooling upgrades, but I'm not sure if I'd be better off with a Cummins.

Is there any overview available about the different models and generations? I'd prefer a mechanical engine with no electronics, if I can get one. And, due to a stupid issue with road taxes here, the bed will have to be longer than the cabin (cabin measured from the brake pedal to the rear wall). Is there any info on that?

The only issues that I can think of are, lift pump problems, Injection pump problems (because of the lift pump failing) and on that year would be the "53" engine block (cracking on the side). To see if the truck has the "53" block, climb underneath and look below the injection pump, (drivers side of truck), and the block # will be cast in it or look under oil filter housing (passenger side) for the "53" casting. They say that the 2002 were the Cream of the Crop.

The 12vers have minimal electronics, up through 98.5. 98 was the year they introduced the 24v engine midway through the year. As far as longevity, the 12v engines seem to be the most mileage engines. I know 2 people that have high mileage 12v trucks, 1 with 785,000 miles and the other with 1,375,000 miles on it, for real!:drop_mout

That's good to know, thanks! Then I should better look for a pre 98.5 12ver, 2500er or 3500er.

Are they available with the 6speed manual tranny? I've been told that the 6speed is an about indistructible unit.

How could I check for a failed lift pump or IP problems?

1,375,000 miles is really impressive! It would take really long for me to get there :)

Are they available with the 6speed manual tranny? I've been told that the 6speed is an about indistructible unit.

How could I check for a failed lift pump or IP problems?
:)

The 6 speeds weren't available until 2001 I believe and they usually put in the HO engines (245hp/505fttq), all though I have heard that some the SO engines (235hp/485fttq) trucks had them as well.

You only have to worry about lift pump/Ip problems if you go with a 24v. If the truck has a fuel pressure gauge on it, then you can check the fuel pressure that way. If not you'll need to have the fuel pressure checked at a dealer or cummins/diesel shop or unless you a gauge. The is a test port on the Ip (Injector pump or referred to as the Vp44).

What fuel pressure should I read when checking?

What's the difference in mileage between the 12v and the 24v? Since fuel is very expensive here, mileage is an important thing. Is there a difference in mileage between the 2500er and the 3500er?

It seems to me that the 12Vs available here are mostly about 200kkm, some above 300kkm. I would add another 60kkm each year, so that's also a thing to consider. The 24Vs are newer and therefore can be had with lower mileage.

And I've found out that I would need a long bed, unless the 'default' bed of the 3500ers is generally longer than the 'default' bed of the 2500ers. I've roughly measured the bed and the cabin of some 2500er, and they appear to be equal in length. Otherwise, the 2500er yet made a sturdy impression, but the seller was not there and I could tell only from viewing from outside.

a 12v with a little more agressive timing will get better fuel economy than a 24v i think...

Yep, the 12v will get better mileage. I've heard figures in the low to mid 20's for 12v and the best I'm hearing from the 24v is high teens. Unless you always drive 55 then I think the 24v can break into the low 20's. (you know someone drives the speed limit). I got the 2500 to tow a camper and figured it was the last truck I would ever need. Found out if I ever want to tow the large 5ers, 15k lbs and up, the 3500 is a little more stable and usually the GVW towing is somewhat more. Something to consider. But in everyday driving and parking the 2500 is fine.

The 24V pick up better milage when you put a box on it and better supply pump. I have a customer with a 01 2500 with a huge camper on it and tows a trailer behind it hauling a Subaru WRX and gets 19-20 miles per gallon and 22-23 miles per gallon with out the car and trailer. All we installed was the Edge EZ and a FASS pump and gauges. I do agree the 12V has a more reliable fuel system. If you go for the 24V make sure you up grade the supply pump or install a fuel pressure gauge and monitor fuel psi. As soon as the psi starts to drop or has intermittent readings get a new pump. Remember its not just psi that keeps the injection pump alive its also volume.

The 12Vs I found yet are either high mileage, appear to be worn down too much or are overpriced --- or a combination of that :/

And because of a road tax issue, I'll have to get a long bed to have a bed that is longer than the cabin. There seem to be a very few 2500er with a short cab and a long bed, but none with a quad cab and a long bed, and I prefer the quad cab to have some room to store things within the cabin. Thus, I end up with a 3500.

Almost all of them have the auto tranny, but I want a stick. One remains, 1998 3500er, 24V, but it has 2wd only. I'll check it out this weekend.