Ladies and Gents,
Here's a classic PITA job, broken down step-by-step with pics in a PDF. Let me know what you think :D.

Enjoy!!

-Tom

While I applaud your very well illustrated DIY, and find it another reason to be on here, there are maybe a few points to add.

1) how to back of the P-brakes
b) how to adjust the P-brake

both of which may not have been required in your case, but it is common.

III) "beat the studs" back in may result in incomplete seating of the wheel studs. Best practice is to use a press with arbors, although many shade tree guys may not have access to one. Every Napa I've been to does. In the event that "beating 'em in is the only choice, a mention of lug RETORQUE after 100 miles would be pruddent, and if some are loose, a RETORQUE again after another time frame.

4) No mention of torque specs for the caliper ear nor the mention of at least blue Loctite. (145lb/ft) I've gotten a few with the bolt lost due to undertorque/ no loctite.

E) When mentioning pad fit, the width of the pad U slots is the typical bind point and most of mine need opened a bit.

6) The P/n for boot and insert kit (1 Axle) from GM is 18029812. No mention was made of inspection or replacement (but yours were good as the slide portions were still corrosion free).

I'm sure I'll think of some more.............BUT

It's still a very much needed and well done DIY.

While I applaud your very well illustrated DIY, and find it another reason to be on here, there are maybe a few points to add.

1) how to back of the P-brakes
b) how to adjust the P-brake

both of which may not have been required in your case, but it is common.

III) "beat the studs" back in may result in incomplete seating of the wheel studs. Best practice is to use a press with arbors, although many shade tree guys may not have access to one. Every Napa I've been to does. In the event that "beating 'em in is the only choice, a mention of lug RETORQUE after 100 miles would be pruddent, and if some are loose, a RETORQUE again after another time frame.

4) No mention of torque specs for the caliper ear nor the mention of at least blue Loctite. (145lb/ft) I've gotten a few with the bolt lost due to undertorque/ no loctite.

E) When mentioning pad fit, the width of the pad U slots is the typical bind point and most of mine need opened a bit.

6) The P/n for boot and insert kit (1 Axle) from GM is 18029812. No mention was made of inspection or replacement (but yours were good as the slide portions were still corrosion free).

I'm sure I'll think of some more.............BUT

It's still a very much needed and well done DIY.

P-Brake, mine was all good, didn't think to include it.

Studs, good points.

Loctite, used blue on all bolts but forgot to mention.

Caliper ear, I torqued them to 140 (i think i mentioned that somewhere?)

Brake pad U, I didn't do that but I'll open it a bit tomorrow morning when I do the other wheel.

Slider bolt boots, yes mine were in good shape

I knew you would have edits, so I'll work on a better copy and post tomorrow.

P-Brake, mine was all good, didn't think to include it.

Studs, good points.

Loctite, used blue on all bolts but forgot to mention.

Caliper ear, I torqued them to 140 (i think i mentioned that somewhere?)

Brake pad U, I didn't do that but I'll open it a bit tomorrow morning when I do the other wheel.

Slider bolt boots, yes mine were in good shape

I knew you would have edits, so I'll work on a better copy and post tomorrow.
How 'bout a Pic of the adjuster, shoe hold downs, and adjuster hole while it's apart.

Also if the T55 head isn't present, but rather a Hex headed bolt, the size will be 18mm.

And, The top T55 can be left installed in the caliper, and then swung up, inward, and rotated out of the boot and hole. Many times, it's impractical to get a T55 in there in the first place due to the proximity of the leaf spring assy.

And, lastly, I saw no disclaimer for "not being responsible" when the wife bitches about dents in her trunk lid.:D

How 'bout a Pic of the adjuster, shoe hold downs, and adjuster hole while it's apart.

Also if the T55 head isn't present, but rather a Hex headed bolt, the size will be 18mm.

And, The top T55 can be left installed in the caliper, and then swung up, inward, and rotated out of the boot and hole. Many times, it's impractical to get a T55 in there in the first place due to the proximity of the leaf spring assy.

And, lastly, I saw no disclaimer for "not being responsible" when the wife bitches about dents in her trunk lid.:D

Yes, leave the top bolt in and slide the whole caliper off.

How-To version 2.0 will be out in 24 hours :p:

Wife?? Ha! I'm 18 buddy :D. Thats my little brother's car.

Is this the same set-up for an 08 dually?

Yeah it's the same setup. One other point, from what my buddy tells me, the axle seals should be replaced also at the seal usually comes apart in two pieces and make sure the piece on the axle is off before you reinstall!

Good info. Thanks

What is the p/n for the axle seals? How many does it have? I want to try to have everything on hand before I get started.

What is the p/n for the axle seals? How many does it have? I want to try to have everything on hand before I get started.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84927

Seal p/n for 2007 dually

Good write up.

i have to do this shit to my truck tomarrow :(

Hey everyone who is doing this project right now. What brand and part number did you use on you dually?

How-To version 2.0 will be out in 24 hours :p:

Tick, tick, tick...............(crickets sounding in the distance).:p:

Tick, tick, tick...............(crickets sounding in the distance).:p:

LOL I know, I'm working on it. I've been super busy. I got in an accident today, couldn't stop in time. Seems like i have to do the fronts.....

LOL I know, I'm working on it. I've been super busy. I got in an accident today, couldn't stop in time. Seems like i have to do the fronts.....

Glad you're alright, but be sure to include THOSE pics, too......As a testimonial to why they need done RIGHT;).