I have 96k miles and have owned for 6 years without any incidents. The other day the truck just cranks but won't start so a boat mechanic (I broke down at the marina) puts in a fuel pump under the frame and it starts. The pump is much quieter but 10 minutes later the truck stalls and won't start until I leave it alone for about 20 minutes. This happened 2 more times the next couple of days so I replace the fuel filter which was replaced in Boston 4 months and about 5k miles ago. Now in FL and temps in the 90's and having problems. Anyway after replacing the filter but not draining the cannister the Truck barely cranks. The batteries are 6 months old and showing 12.7 volts. One guy says its a starter but I doubt this. Another says there is too much air to be compressed so I should bleed the injectors or crack them and crank the engine. The problem is that the motor won't crank enough. It seems and sounds like the starter froze or the engine is nearly seized but I doubt there is anything wrong there. I figure I should have found the drain for the fuel filter and maybe because I sucked out the old fuel something else has developed along the lines of air being sucked in. The more I charge the batteries and try to jump start the more frustrated I get. btw this is the first time I changed the fuel filter myself so I am thinking this is the problem and not electrical or otherwise. I am hoping to at least get it started to bring it to the dealer to check the engine as the light has been on for a few thousand miles...:help:

Under 120,000 miles GM will replace the IP. It kinda sounds like a PMD problem. Let GM replace it under warranty but don't get suckered into buying a tank flush or anything.

I don't know what IP is but maybe it has to do with the main fuel pump in or around the fuel tank. I have a tentitive appt with a nissan dealer where a friend knows a diesel mechanic there but if GM will replace a major part that is causing this problem then maybe I should have it towed there... Thanks

If the engine doesn't turn fast enough when you crank it, it won't start. Things you can check are the engine oil level and the connections on the batteries

If the battery connections are a bit loose, the starter will not get enough power to turn fast enough and the engine won't start. This is related to heat, the hotter ambient temps are, the worse the problem will be.

Loose connections will make for a resistance between the cables and the poles of the batteries. The resistance will result in heat being generated when you draw strong currents from the batteries, like you do when cranking. More heat increases the resistance ...

With better lubrication, the engine is easier to crank and the starter will turn it faster.

It should make ~300 rpm when cranking. Battery terminals corrode and hide it behind the plastic. I cut the plastic off first them months later cut the terminals off for top post style. If the starter is bad the terminals will get ultra hot with one crank.

IP = Injection pump, defined as: that thingy YOU don't want to have to buy if you don't have too. GM has a warranty for 120,000 miles on them.

If your service engine light is on, go and have the codes read (like autozone or somewhere) that offers that service. You have an OBD-II system, which eliminates that ole' paperclip method of checking to see what ales the computer.

If you have IP problems, NOW is the time to get them resolved before your warranty is up.

You may wish to check back with us BEFORE having any dealer do any work for you. Some like to get you for some sucker charges that are boogus.

Thanks for the info guys. I am having the Truck towed to GMC this morning and having them put in the IP. I wish I knew that Auto Zone checks the Check Engine free before. I guess the only way to learn more about Diesels is when having problems with them but I never had one until now. I'll let you all know what goes down...

The GM Dealer Service Writer tells me that my truck has been out of warranty for years... I call GMC and they say that you guys are right and that the warranty was extended for the IP's... They called the Dealer and told them that and the dealer informed GMC that it was the IP so they installed it free...

But I am out over $850 because the first time I brought it in they said that I burnt out the starter trying to turn it over when there was air in the lines from me sucking the fuel out of the fuel housing. They also say that the injectors had to be cleaned but don't want to admit that was because of the IP. Originally they said they would pay the toll if it was the IP but now are saying it needed towing because of the starter... I figure that if it wasn't the IP that was bad then maybe it was my fault but since the IP was defective then they should have paid for at least the towing and cleaning of the injectors. The most cost was the starter and maybe if I had called them originally the starter would have been saved so I can see that point of my being at fault with that...

Does anyone think it is worth argueing with GMC again as it is useless talking with the Dealer as the Service Writer is onlly interested in her commision...???

The GM Dealer Service Writer tells me that my truck has been out of warranty for years... I call GMC and they say that you guys are right and that the warranty was extended for the IP's... They called the Dealer and told them that and the dealer informed GMC that it was the IP so they installed it free...

But I am out over $850 because the first time I brought it in they said that I burnt out the starter trying to turn it over when there was air in the lines from me sucking the fuel out of the fuel housing. They also say that the injectors had to be cleaned but don't want to admit that was because of the IP. Originally they said they would pay the toll if it was the IP but now are saying it needed towing because of the starter... I figure that if it wasn't the IP that was bad then maybe it was my fault but since the IP was defective then they should have paid for at least the towing and cleaning of the injectors. The most cost was the starter and maybe if I had called them originally the starter would have been saved so I can see that point of my being at fault with that...

Does anyone think it is worth argueing with GMC again as it is useless talking with the Dealer as the Service Writer is onlly interested in her commision...???

So you got a new starter, IP, and your injectors cleaned for $850 installed? And your truck had no problems before you changed the filter? It definately could of turned out different if you took it there to start with, but all in all I don't think I would fight it too much. :)

Maybe you work or have stock in GM???

I don't know what IP is but maybe it has to do with the main fuel pump in or around the fuel tank. I have a tentitive appt with a nissan dealer where a friend knows a diesel mechanic there but if GM will replace a major part that is causing this problem then maybe I should have it towed there... Thanks

Damn dude! you need help

It should make ~300 rpm when cranking. Battery terminals corrode and hide it behind the plastic. I cut the plastic off first them months later cut the terminals off for top post style. If the starter is bad the terminals will get ultra hot with one crank.

shouldnt it be 100-150 rpms when cranking?

That slow of a cranking speed would make it hard to start.

The pump is tested for cranking delivery at 75 RPM, which is 150 Crank RPM, 200 Crank is about minimum to start.