Has anyone used Motofloor [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Has anyone used Motofloor


Kat
05-21-2005, 05:24 PM
I think this would look :cool:

But don't know how it would last if you would actually use a jack on it

http://www.costco.com/Images/Content/Product/11038308L.jpg

NWDmax
05-21-2005, 10:38 PM
I want an epoxy type floor coating for my next shop thats easily cleaned and does not peel up under hot tires etc.
I just want to talk with someone that is unbiased and has lived with one for awhile so I don't have to do it twice.
Blake

Deadeye
05-24-2005, 05:54 PM
epoxy is crap . . . see the other thread. very few successful floors except the super expensive ones.

Got Juice?
05-24-2005, 07:05 PM
epoxy is crap . . . see the other thread. very few successful floors except the super expensive ones.

Proper floor preparation is key in getting any epoxy to bond to concrete.

Steps include: Detergent wash to get rid of oil contamination

Muriatic acid wash and neutralization (to get rid of concrete dust and provide a chemically etched surface for the epoxy to 'Bite' into.

Reduction or Primer applied to concrete as a further bond agent as required by MFGR.

Any oil contaminants below surface should be chiseled to 1" below F Floor and filled with a high compressive strenght portland based levelling agent.

After all these steps you can have a durable Epoxy Floor. Make sure it is a high solids epoxy (higher the better) and is stable to your climate after it cures.


And yes, to answer your question, I'm in this line of work.

Blinky
05-24-2005, 07:25 PM
Proper floor preparation is key in getting any epoxy to bond to concrete.

Steps include: Detergent wash to get rid of oil contamination

Muriatic acid wash and neutralization (to get rid of concrete dust and provide a chemically etched surface for the epoxy to 'Bite' into.

Reduction or Primer applied to concrete as a further bond agent as required by MFGR.

Any oil contaminants below surface should be chiseled to 1" below F Floor and filled with a high compressive strenght portland based levelling agent.

After all these steps you can have a durable Epoxy Floor. Make sure it is a high solids epoxy (higher the better) and is stable to your climate after it cures.


And yes, to answer your question, I'm in this line of work.

What he said......

Terrain Twister
05-25-2005, 01:04 AM
Steve,
Does that mean your in that line of work or you've done that to your floor and it's holding up? If we get together this weekend I'll have to take a look if you've had it done!

Got Juice?
05-25-2005, 01:19 AM
Steve,
Does that mean your in that line of work or you've done that to your floor and it's holding up? If we get together this weekend I'll have to take a look if you've had it done!

TT is your floor 'steel troweled' smooth?
Oilstains?
Drywall droppinds?
Paint dust?

Pics would help a bit here.

David Schear
05-25-2005, 04:39 AM
Sherwin Williams part # B60 VZ 70 and B6ZTZ 104.
It is a 2 part epoxy that is used on all of the floors in the plant where I work. Holds up really well under very heavy foot and forklift traffic. Around $20-25 a gallon.

Blinky
05-25-2005, 01:42 PM
Steve,
Does that mean your in that line of work or you've done that to your floor and it's holding up? If we get together this weekend I'll have to take a look if you've had it done!

Chuck,

Did the work myself.... Can walk you thru the why's and how's. Juice is 100% correct that the prep is the most important part of the job.... Clean, scrub, rinse, acid wash, then apply paint.....

Apologies about last weekend........ the boss had the "other schedule" :rolleyes: and I could not get loose....:(

If your not gone for the holliday with the toybox give me a ring this weekend....

Steve

Terrain Twister
05-25-2005, 11:23 PM
Steve, I'll be around. They're upset with me at work but I've worked the last 3-4 weekends fixing their problems and I told them I'm taking it off, PERIOD! As far as last weekend, my 'real' boss also had me busy.:o:

Juice, floor is steel troweled. IMO, it's pretty clean considering it's 27 years old. No real stains, mud, etc. Agree that prep is needed and the key. One of the concerns I have though is that when it rains or has been 'moist' around here for anything longer than 2 days, the garage floor looks moist. Thinking I may be better off just polishing and sealing the concrete. The wife will be putting her car in it when she gets the new one, so tire peel is a concern.

GMC2500HD
05-25-2005, 11:31 PM
I used something similar in an old garage and it held up nicely. Started to peel up after about 2 yrs but that was after some serious abuse. I think all in all they are good floors..

jrk55
06-07-2005, 01:14 AM
check this out. http://www.durabakcompany.com/concrete.htm

Got Juice?
06-07-2005, 03:31 AM
Steve, I'll be around. They're upset with me at work but I've worked the last 3-4 weekends fixing their problems and I told them I'm taking it off, PERIOD! As far as last weekend, my 'real' boss also had me busy.:o:

Juice, floor is steel troweled. IMO, it's pretty clean considering it's 27 years old. No real stains, mud, etc. Agree that prep is needed and the key. One of the concerns I have though is that when it rains or has been 'moist' around here for anything longer than 2 days, the garage floor looks moist. Thinking I may be better off just polishing and sealing the concrete. The wife will be putting her car in it when she gets the new one, so tire peel is a concern.

Ok, Tire scrub and the sulfur used in the vulanizing process can discolour an epoxy. Visually, the orange/yellow brown tracks will be permanent in the epoxy over a period of time. One other solution with a steel trowlled concrete floor is to use a densifying sealer from L&M

In Fast Track School corridors after we diamond polish (similar to terrazzo apps) the concrete to expose the aggregate we apply a specific high solids bonding sealer.

On a Steel Trowelled floor, you may elect to 'scrub' the concrete using a mild muriatic acid 1:7 solution on floor, followed by a neutralization wash of baking soda and water, then 3 clean water rinses.

Wait 2 days to allow moisture to outgas the apply this : http://www.lmcc.com/products/prodinfo.asp?id=49&lang=

Good Stuff!

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