I have been fighting a vibration problem around 45mph-55mph. It's noticeable above and below these speeds but it's really bad there.

I got new tires about 2 years ago and have had them balanced 4 times since then. The tire guys (Discount Tire) say it's my rims. He says CHROME rims are way too heavy and if I would purchase some new rims from him it would go away.

I don't want to fall for a sales pitch so I need to ask all the experts. I did contact a driveline place and they said I would feel the vibration all the time and speed wouldn't matter.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Find a tire shop with a road force balancer. They don't lie (the machine that is). and 45 mph is right on the money for a tire balance vibration.

Find a tire shop with a road force balancer. They don't lie (the machine that is). and 45 mph is right on the money for a tire balance vibration.

Funny thing is the guy at Discount Tire told me they road force balanced them. I believed him, but I didn't know what it meant at the time. After someone described to me that they will rotate the tire on the rim to try and offset any problems I realized they lied to me. I watched them step by step.
Since this was my 4th time in I wanted to make sure they actually did something. All the guy did was grind off the old weights, put them on a machine that spun them around and he would put weight on them until the LEFT and RIGHT numbers on his machine were ZERO. Never even touched the tires or moved them around on the rim.......I went to a competitor (Les Schwab) and they want $120 to road force them. Man that sucks!

Funny thing is the guy at Discount Tire told me they road force balanced them. I believed him, but I didn't know what it meant at the time. After someone described to me that they will rotate the tire on the rim to try and offset any problems I realized they lied to me. I watched them step by step.
Since this was my 4th time in I wanted to make sure they actually did something. All the guy did was grind off the old weights, put them on a machine that spun them around and he would put weight on them until the LEFT and RIGHT numbers on his machine were ZERO. Never even touched the tires or moved them around on the rim.......I went to a competitor (Les Schwab) and they want $120 to road force them. Man that sucks!
I have TWO local GM dealers with the machine - $14.99 per.

It definitely sounds like a tire inbalance. Did you check all four of your wheels to see if you wheel weights are in place on the inner and outer portions of the wheel? Some times the weights come off if the wheel rubs a curb or when off roading etc.

The road force balance is just a roller on the balance machine that presses on the tire as it is spinning, to create the same effect as being in the road. Might not be noticeable if your not looking closely. I had the same problem with Discount Tire in Tyler, Texas. I found out that my rims were special. They had to use the Dually adapter to do the balance. As the center hole that they put the cone in was not round. At least not the edge that the cone sits on. After that they would balance. But I still get the shakes at 40 to 50. When they balance it. Make sure they spin it again after they get a zero, to ensure the balance was correct. That's how I found out my problem.

The road force balance is just a roller on the balance machine that presses on the tire as it is spinning, to create the same effect as being in the road. Might not be noticeable if your not looking closely. I had the same problem with Discount Tire in Tyler, Texas. I found out that my rims were special. They had to use the Dually adapter to do the balance. As the center hole that they put the cone in was not round. At least not the edge that the cone sits on. After that they would balance. But I still get the shakes at 40 to 50. When they balance it. Make sure they spin it again after they get a zero, to ensure the balance was correct. That's how I found out my problem.


So the balance did not fix your 40-50 shake??

Have you found anything to calm it down?

I have the same thing. Had the tires balanced 5 times and different places including discount tire.
try this
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312567
I have another vibration now, it seems to be the alison tail bearing. Just checked it after a 3k mile trip.

I never got all the vibration out of it. Others have replaced many things with no help.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3316335&postcount=13

This may not be an easy one.
good luck

So the balance did not fix your 40-50 shake??

Have you found anything to calm it down?


Nope. From my understanding. It is a frame harmonics thing. The stiffer the frame, the lower the frequency that the frame require to vibrate. And these trucks have stiffer frames than previous year trucks did. That is what I had heard. The only things you can do to lower the feeling in-cab is get a REALLY good balance on the tires, REALLY good shocks, and good body mounts. Oh, and ensure your drive shaft is not messed up. Like having a couple of good size dings in it.

Check the carrier bearing in the middle of your drive shaft. It can cause all kinds of vibration problems.

Check the carrier bearing in the middle of your drive shaft. It can cause all kinds of vibration problems.

Tried that. Bought a new one and had it installed. Idiot used a cutting torch to heat it up and cut it off. Ended up buying a whole new drive line. $800 and another $125 for the carrier bearing that was put on the old one, and still not fixed. So now I have a spare driveline that seems good and still shakin'.

After taking the truck BACK to America's Tire (Discount Tire) they tell me that the tires are PERFECTLY BALANCED - "smooth as a baby's butt" were his specific words! The manager finally road tested it and CONFIRMED the vibration between 40 MPH - 50 MPH. He SWEARS it's the rims. When I asked him HOW IN THE WORLD would the tires be PERFECT on the balancer and NOT on the truck, he couldn't answer me. He says my rims have a heavy "face", making them difficult to balance - BUT HE SAYS THEY ARE PERFECT on the machine! I want to trust this guy but when the facts don't add up I feel like I am getting jerked around.

He did say the tire balance machine only goes to 35 MPH, so I wonder if that could be the difference.

I have committed to purchase new rims from him BECAUSE he said that if that didn't solve the problem he would take them back, even though their policy is not to.

ANY IDEAS???

Get it in writing and signed. If you don't then he ca go back on his word and you have nothing.

I had a vibration @ 75mph on up, it has since gone away after installing transfer case brace.

I will get him to put it in writing for sure.

DieselDan,

I have a vibration in my truck also. I rest my left foot on the fan housing or vent housing just below the emergency break. It is through that plastic housing that I feel a vibration in my truck but it is slight. It only happens around the 45-55 mph mark and only after the truck has warmed up. I have no idea what it is either.

BUT, I did get on Allison Transmission's website. Using their service locator I found an authorized Allison Transmission Sales and Service Center in my area - actually found 3 or 4. The one I found I plan on taking my truck to is also a member of the ATRA (Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association). I understand the ATRA hold members to high standards of quality workmanship, high ethical standards and also provide warranty work for the work they perform.

With all that rambling said, I talked to the transmission service center I plan on taking my truck to. For $40.00 they said they will test drive my truck to see if they can feel the same vibration I am experiencing. In addition, they said they will also hook up a computer and do extensive diagnostic testing which they claimed would take about an hour to do in addition to checking the driveshaft for balance as well as the u-joints.

For $40.00 - I don't think I can go wrong. So you might check with an Allison Authorized Service Center in your area in Oregon. I performed a check and there are 5 I think - maybe it was 4 - located in your state.

Maybe you could look them up and find the one closest to your area and call them and explain what is going on - maybe they can test it for you cheap.

I plan on taking my truck in the next week or so to see what they say is wrong with mine. I am hoping it is anything and everything except for the torque converter slipping when it locks up. That is my biggest fear cause it would be about the most costly.

Maybe this will give you some viable option to finding someone who can rule out it being a driveline issue - someone who is not a quack and out to make a buck for nothing at your expense.

Check your crossmember. Inspect all connection points to the frame but pay close attention to the connection points to the transfer case. The bolts have captive washers that will sometimes crack and fold slightly allowing the torque to be reduced or lost. It is an easy fix and worked on my 2001 2500 HD extended cab long bed.

Check your crossmember. Inspect all connection points to the frame but pay close attention to the connection points to the transfer case. The bolts have captive washers that will sometimes crack and fold slightly allowing the torque to be reduced or lost. It is an easy fix and worked on my 2001 2500 HD extended cab long bed.

Good idea, I will check that tomorrow. If this is the case though, would it get worse between 45 and 55?

I'm assuming this imbalance wasn't there before you did the tire. If in fact, then I personally would start rotating tires to eliminate the "wheel issue". If you have a bad wheel it will for sure show more of a problem when it's bolted to the front.

I also had a vibration with a 6.5 sub, dealer saw it many times, they couldn't find the problem. Crawled all around the truck a number of times, found the transmission tail stock mount had one bolt loose. Vibration fixed.

My vibration was a come and go sort of thing but when it came it was always at 49 mph. It did not matter if I had a load in the bed or if the road was rough. I could play with it a little in that if I accelerated real slow and steady I could almost eliminate it but for getting on the highway or just getting up to 55 in normal driving it happened a lot until I changed out the cracked washer and re- torqued all the transmission and transfer case mounting bolts. I was very surprised how simple the fix was. I started by changing out both front hubs (THEY

I hit send too early...again...Both my front hubs were bad (I plow a lot). I replaced the aluminum driveshaft and u joints. I lubed the splines. I also lost my diff and replaced it with a Torsen. No complaints as all these items improved my truck but the 5o cent washer fix is was got rid of the vibration.

I say the carrier bearing....mine has done the same thing for many miles....thought it was the tires, then discovered a thread on the carrier bearing issue. Added some neopreme to the "open" areas of the "vibration damper" area to the factory carrier bearing and added a piece of rubber between the bearing mounting and frame....became much better. Also had to drill some "flex holes" into the neopreme...it was too stiff and did not allow any flex, thus transferring all vibrations to the frame. (current miles...94,300k)

Hope this is of some help.

I say the carrier bearing....mine has done the same thing for many miles....thought it was the tires, then discovered a thread on the carrier bearing issue. Added some neopreme to the "open" areas of the "vibration damper" area to the factory carrier bearing and added a piece of rubber between the bearing mounting and frame....became much better. Also had to drill some "flex holes" into the neopreme...it was too stiff and did not allow any flex, thus transferring all vibrations to the frame. (current miles...94,300k)

Hope this is of some help.

I am not sure on the carrirer bearing. I have replaced all of my bearings associated with the drive shaft (u-joints, carrier bearing)....no change. I also used a polyurethane to "firm up" the carrier bearing surround. Did not notice a difference for the better there either. I am not sure what else there is that could be creating this, aside from tires. A tire balance is my next step. No idea where else to go after the problem.

I have tried "wiggling" the transmission to see if perhaps there was a loose mount there or something....but no luck with that either.

I have a 2wd ext. cab long. Someone on here said something about some washers on the t-case, but this is not my issue because mine is 2wd.

I hope between all of us on here we can come up with something..... BTW I am sure this is not the frame beaming that has been spoke of either.

I am so stumped by this. On my truck it is at a very specific speed, always between 40 & 50 mph. If it does not turn out to be the tires what the heck could it be?

Any ideas?? I would love to have this fixed over the weekend.

I have the same issue on my dually. GM said it was frame beaming and gave me a free extended warranty for it. I believe it is caused, atleast in my case, by my tires that have a slight feathering on the outer side of the tread, caused by the crappy front ends on theses trucks. Bewteen 22k and 40k miles the dealership has replaced the idler/pitman, tie rods, lower control arms and just recently a passenger side hub.
If you have not already, take a minute and rub your hand around the tread to feel for any feathering. Sometimes its very slight and you can not see it but you should be able to feel it, if it's there. Good luck.

I believe it is caused, atleast in my case, by my tires that have a slight feathering on the outer side of the tread, caused by the crappy front ends on theses trucks. Bewteen 22k and 40k miles the dealership has replaced the idler/pitman, tie rods, lower control arms and just recently a passenger side hub.
If you have not already, take a minute and rub your hand around the tread to feel for any feathering. Sometimes its very slight and you can not see it but you should be able to feel it, if it's there. Good luck.
Feathering on the outside is too much positive camber, which sounds as if you've adjusted (leveled) the truck. The GM IFS will wear the inside of the tire as the spring(s) naturally settle in (compress) as they age.
You're reference to "crappy front ends on these trucks" is not true, but rather it should say "Unqualified dealer techs have just started throwing parts at my truck instead of aligning it correectly".:blahblah:

Every 3-4 ton truck will develop a shallow feathering of the inner and outer tread as the tires approach their rotation interval......
Maybe you should have a Twin I-beam Ford truck?

I think the problem we are talking about is driveline related somewhere. My issue is def. not a tire problem.

I am so stumped by this. On my truck it is at a very specific speed, always between 40 & 50 mph. If it does not turn out to be the tires what the heck could it be?
How'd you make it higher??? (in the rear).

I'm thinking that you're rear height addition was straight up and not angled to keep the U-joint angles matched. Your lift blocks should be angled.

How'd you make it higher??? (in the rear).

I'm thinking that you're rear height addition was straight up and not angled to keep the U-joint angles matched. Your lift blocks should be angled.


I have flat blocks in the rear... was that way when I bought it.

Any idea what the ratio is for the angle ie: rear of block xx" front of block xx" or how much the carrier can be shimed down before creating a problem with the front shaft.

Allright, I have tried everything I can think of for this stupid shaking @ 40-50mph. I hae tried shimming the carrier down, new u-joints. It is still exactly the same. Anybody have any other thoughts on where to go next.

It is so strange that it only occurs at that specific speed. it is almost like going over small whoopties or something, once you are out of that speed poof gone comletely.

Please bring all ideas on this.

Find a tire shop that has a true spin balancer & someone that knows how to use it correctly. The one that spins the wheel on the vehicle. Not a computer spin balancer. I have had this type of problem in the past with other vehicles & this was the only way found to balance. You can spin the tires at varing speeds with this type of balancer form 2mph to 102 mph. You can warm up the tires with this type of balancer which makes a difference. There are different types; strobe & adjustable weighted. I liked the adjustable weighted system as you could change the weight while spinning the wheel. Place your forehead on the vehicle fender and feel the change in running vibration. On a side note they are getting harder & harder to find.
Hope this helps, Good Luck.
Keep us posted on what you find.

My bounce problem has been solved...I had a road force balance done they removed all of the weight I had (not that it hadn't been done this way before), did a very thourough balance job and.....GONE!!! I think I got a good tech that truely knew how to use the machine.

My problem ended up indeed being a tire or more out of balance. Maybe several of them were out enough and when they all got on the "perfect" harmony it really caused bounce/shake.

So.... my solution was a road force balance.

Thanks everyone for the input!!

heymccall, you were right on the money!! Good ...."call"

I am so stumped by this. On my truck it is at a very specific speed, always between 40 & 50 mph. If it does not turn out to be the tires what the heck could it be?

Well for me it wasn't the rims like the tire guy said. I purchased 4 new rims and the vibration is still there betweel 40 & 50 MPH. This is frustrating...... :mad:

My bounce problem has been solved...I had a road force balance done they removed all of the weight I had (not that it hadn't been done this way before), did a very thourough balance job and.....GONE!!! I think I got a good tech that truely knew how to use the machine.

My problem ended up indeed being a tire or more out of balance. Maybe several of them were out enough and when they all got on the "perfect" harmony it really caused bounce/shake.

So.... my solution was a road force balance.

Thanks everyone for the input!!

heymccall, you were right on the money!! Good ...."call"

Wish I could say the same thing. They TELL ME they road force balanced the tires but it didn't make any difference.

Mine does the samething have had tires balanced twice

I have been having the same problem with my truck but have fixed the problem..the first problem being a few slight cracks in my transmission mount which i replaced and after talking to a buddy of mine who works at a local tire shop told me to try the "balance beads".. He said there is no way really for a tire shop to balance tires for semis and motorcycles so they use the beads.. even for tire with more aggresive tread he recommends these "balance beads". so i tried them and no more 45-55 mph vibration..
plus they are constantly balancing your tire ...here is a link for the kind that i bought...hope this helps you guys out


http://www.innovativebalancing.com/

I have been having the same problem with my truck but have fixed the problem..the first problem being a few slight cracks in my transmission mount which i replaced and after talking to a buddy of mine who works at a local tire shop told me to try the "balance beads".. He said there is no way really for a tire shop to balance tires for semis and motorcycles so they use the beads.. even for tire with more aggresive tread he recommends these "balance beads". so i tried them and no more 45-55 mph vibration..
plus they are constantly balancing your tire ...here is a link for the kind that i bought...hope this helps you guys out


http://www.innovativebalancing.com/

These things really work? My tires cause some annoying vibes but just figured Id deal with em till I wear em out. What's a ballpark figure on these? It aint worth much more than $50 to me, I'll just put up with it if they're kinda pricey.

i paid $40.00 for enough beads to do all 4 tires on my truck..seems a little high but tires continue to balance themselves and no more worring about wheel weights coming off and most tire shops use the lead weights and not the coated ones which are more money and supposed to be used on chrome or aluminum rims .. look how many miles semi drivers put on their tires and the weight they carry.. alot of them use these just for the simple fact of having a nice smooth ride down the highway ...just my 2cents worth

yea thats worth a one time balance for sure. If it does the job that is , which I'll trust your word it does. I'll have to check into how to get em'. Where'd you get yours?

Have you guys tried the spacer trick on the carrier bearing?

A friend of mine just purchased 4 brand new 315/70R17 BFG KO's from BIG-O. He had the same shaking problem starting around 50 MPH. BIG-O rebalanced his tires 4 times without luck, then finally he demanded they replace the tire that had the most weights on it's wheel. Problem solved.
My truck starts to shake & the steering wheels moves back and forth slightly at the same speed. Happened after I installed a set of used tires. Had Discount rebalance them once, no luck.
Would the shaking cause any problems to my drivetrain if I continued to run the used tires ?

:mad: OK, after new tires and new rims the shaking at 40-50 mph is still there. I had a diesel mechanic tell me it could be the u-joints. He suggested that after a long drive I feel them to see if one is hotter than the other. Is this really something you could notice? HOW can I tell if this is a drive-line issue or a wheel/tire issue?

If I was to take it to a shop, would you recommend a Allison shop, tire center (AGAIN), or the dealer?

TIA

It's easy to check your u-joints. Block one of your tires, put your trans in neutral (as to take the load off of the driveline), crawl under your truck with a large screw driver or small pry bar, then carefully pry on the joint to see if you can get any movement. My problem ended up being tires. If you have a bad u-joint, change it asap. I had my rear adapter housing on my Allison crack because of a bad u-joint, cost me over a grand to fix it myself.

Just went through all the above. In the dealer for balance 3 times, still not right. Went to a large tire shop they found one tire wasn't up on the bead completely and one tire was out of balance. They also removed the retainers or clips on the stud which hold the rotors. These will stop the aftermarket wheels from seating against the rotor. The back of the wheel is flat which must mate flat with the rotor, otherwise the wheel won't run true. I hope this makes sense! All things aside the truck runs sweet. 275/70/18 Michelins with monster XD's

just a thought, has anyone checked the from bearing assembly? that is what caused my vibration..... it doesnt have to have much play in it to cause you an issue. does the vibration change slightly when u add some weight in the back of your truck by chance?

:mad: OK, after new tires and new rims the shaking at 40-50 mph is still there. I had a diesel mechanic tell me it could be the u-joints. He suggested that after a long drive I feel them to see if one is hotter than the other. Is this really something you could notice? HOW can I tell if this is a drive-line issue or a wheel/tire issue?

If I was to take it to a shop, would you recommend a Allison shop, tire center (AGAIN), or the dealer?

TIA
did they take those wheels back as promised ?

did they take those wheels back as promised ?

Yes they did. My problem exists but based on the customer service I would go back. They have gone above and beyond to help. It's obviously not the tires or rims.

Good to hear

Did you ever get this straightened out?

Did you ever get this straightened out?

No. Still fighting it. Think I am going to take it to an Allison shop to see if it's something in the trans or the driveline.

did you ever discover the source? i have a similiar vibration>> but it goes away if i let off the gas