Big 3 question. Do you run 0 gauge from alt to both batts? [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Big 3 question. Do you run 0 gauge from alt to both batts?


thohawk
09-14-2009, 02:03 PM
I am planning my big 3 upgrade this weekend. I am curious if I can just run the alternator to one battery of if I should run it to both.

JC1843
09-14-2009, 03:05 PM
That should be OK, the batteries are already connected together at the jump start block by the power steering.

dozerboy
09-14-2009, 05:45 PM
Both would be a little better. Your amp is hooked up to the passenger side batt right, so if you do one do that one. I have never done the big 3 on a truck with duel batts it might not help much.

Charlie B
09-14-2009, 06:49 PM
on my 04 the battery cables meet at the starter, I do not know about an 07. The original wire that goes from the alternator to the red block is a fusible link. I had problems with the battery on the passenger side , I purchased another original alternator wire and connected it to the alterbator and the passenger battery with a sidepost adaptor with a 3/8 male lug. The wire fits perfectly and both batteries get the same amount of current. My question whats a BIG 3? Charlie

thohawk
09-15-2009, 10:38 AM
Big 3 is

1. Run 0 gauge wire from Alternator to Battery (our batteries in our case)
2. Run 0 gauge ground wire from Battery to Frame. (Some also recommend grounding to body as well).
3. Run 0 gauge ground wire to Engine Block.

This is supposed to improve all electronics in the vehicle since everything is grounded to the vehicle frame or body. It is also supposed to eliminate additional noise in the radio (Like the high frequency whirrring you hear sometimes in stereos that coincide with engine RPM.) I am mostly doing it because i am putting in so many amps, and I don't want feedback or buzzing.

Also partially because I am an Obsessive Compulsive dumbass that started out buying replacement speakers for my blown door speakers, and ended up with a ridiculous new sound system. :>)

Charlie B
09-15-2009, 02:32 PM
Thanks for the info, I wouldn't say you were a dumpass, you know the saying,
BIGGER [sound] IS ALWAYS BETTER. have a great day, Charlie

6APPEAL
09-15-2009, 04:31 PM
Also partially because I am an Obsessive Compulsive dumbass that started out buying replacement speakers for my blown door speakers, and ended up with a ridiculous new sound system. :>)
:sorrysign for being such a bad influence.:coolnana: Eh, not really! :evillol::lol::rockit:

No big 3 here and no issues (yet? :idea:). Just be sure to not bypass any "safety" features (fuseable links, etc) when doing the upgrade.
John

thohawk
09-15-2009, 10:38 PM
John,
Did you run your ground for the amp through the firewall to the battery? Or just ground it to a seat bolt?

dozerboy
09-15-2009, 10:52 PM
I did a body ground test it with an ohm meter, but I can't remember whats an exceptionable amount of resistance.

thohawk
09-15-2009, 10:59 PM
I have an Ohm meter. I am planning to ground to the body with my big 3 as well. I was just wondering if I should run a 4 gauge ground back to the amp as well. I am hoping I don't need to. but it wouldn't be hard.

If you come across the acceptable level, please let me know.

Diesel52
09-15-2009, 11:58 PM
What ends are you going to put on? Crimp style or the threaded pipe type ends that are reuseable. If you use crimp do solder them. the threaded type use a good grease in the end ( electrical grease). Use Copper Cote on your connections this will greatly reduce oxidation/ corrosion.

6APPEAL
09-16-2009, 09:24 AM
John,
Did you run your ground for the amp through the firewall to the battery? Or just ground it to a seat bolt?

My ground is on the seat bolt. But, I ran an additional 4 ga ground strap from the body to the frame (been doing that for years). My ends are a crimp on that are soldered also (been doing that for years also).

Good tips from Diesel52 on preventing oxidation and/or corrosion.:cool:
John

thohawk
09-16-2009, 01:36 PM
Thanks for the Kopr Kote suggestion. I will definitely use that.
I will be doing the solder and crimp as well. I've never been good at soldering, but I suppose I could youtube it and find some quick how-to's.

dozerboy
09-16-2009, 04:52 PM
I've never had any luck soldering 4 ga without a small propane torch. I haven't had any trouble with just using dielectric grease, but my current system is the first one I have not redone every year. Its been in there for 3 years now and no oxidation yet.

makduff3
09-16-2009, 05:26 PM
Please take lots of photos, I am planning to redue my system when I get back from Iraq..one month to go!! cant wait... thanks for the great post.

6APPEAL
09-17-2009, 09:11 AM
I've never had any luck soldering 4 ga without a small propane torch.
x2 or larger than 4 ga wire.
John

thohawk
09-17-2009, 01:09 PM
To solder with the propane torch, do you flux the wire like you do with copper pipes? I am guessing NO. possibly due to causing corrosion, but would like confirmation.

6APPEAL
09-17-2009, 04:05 PM
Never used flux on mine. The wire wicks the solder in. I crimp on first, then apply the heat source to the lug. Leave youself a little room behind the lug or you could burn the wire jakcet (ask me how I know:rolleyes:). Heat shrink when cooled. Done! Never had any problems.
John