I have a 2006 2500HD CC/SB 4wd. It has 26k miles/ 3 years old. I have the front end leveled but suspension otherwise stock, 285's on and tow 99% of the time.

I want some new shocks and leaning toward Bilsteins. My question is which ones? Some sights say if the front is raised X, stock X, etc.

Should I get stock ones or ones that are for lifted trucks?

Also, where's the best place to get 'em?

Thanks

Have you happen to read this thread yet. Some info on there about what you are looking for on the deference between the Bilstein shocks.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323657


Let me know if you have any questions. We offer Bilsteins, great shock.


...

Have you happen to read this thread yet. Some info on there about what you are looking for on the deference between the Bilstein shocks.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323657


Let me know if you have any questions. We offer Bilsteins, great shock.


...

Nick,
Okay, I read the linked threads and am still not completely clear here on what you're recommending for a stock suspension truck with no lift, cranked up leveling, or keyed adjustments - just bone stock. My plan is to keep it that way so it will continue to fit into the garage. However, I'm thinking the factory shocks are probably junk. I've only got 14k miles on this truck but the Bilsteins I've put on other vehicles in the past were always a noticeable improvement to ride and stability. Given that, would you recommend the yellow [BE5-6081-H] or the zinc plated [BE5-D146-H0] series in a four-shock package? It appears either will fit fine, but that you lean toward the zinc plated 5100's even on zero lift trucks, correct? I should probably add too that I pull a trailer to dirt biking events and would say as a result the truck is very mildly off-roaded. Thanks in advance for any feedback/advice!

Concentrate on the high lighted red statments....if it doesn't help you see my favor for the zinc shocks please tell me, maybe my wording is not suggesting that?




Here is a copy of that thread/post: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3416018&postcount=12



For a stock truck you can use the Zinc plated 5100 style shocks. Here is the comparison of the 2:

First thing to know is OE factory shocks limit the travel of a stock GM 8-lug truck. You can confirm this very easy by jacking the truck up off the ground by the frame allowing the front suspension drop out. You will see that the UCA still offers alittle more drop out if the shock was removed as seen here:


http://www.norcaltruck.com/shop/cog-2-3/image002.jpg http://www.norcaltruck.com/shop/cog-2-3/image003.jpg



Bilstein Yellow HD BE5-6081 & 6082:
These shocks are designed for someone that is 100% stock, no playing with the adjustment of the torsion bars for added height. Reason is this front shock is alittle shorter than the factory shock by 3/4". Also the valving is light on the rebound and heavy on the compression. So if you are adjusted higher than factory this shock will top out faster for 2 reasons, light rebound valving and shorter travel offered. On the ride on the highway and on city streets you will find this shock has a harsh compression and will feel like the suspension is "packing" or stiff.

It is a great shock if you are running a plow or heavy bumper and winch. But I find most common truck owners do not prefer these shocks for the best ride quality.


Bilstein Zinc D146 & D147:
I call these 0-1.5" shocks because they are almost the same length as the factory so you still have the shock limiting over all travel. Bilstein calls this the 2" leveling shock but you really need to make sure your 2" of adjustment is not more like 3" in the end or you will still have a harsh ride due to lack of travel at ride height. These shock are more of the favored shock to use on a stock or mild adjusted stance due to the reason of there valving spec. This shock has a softer compression so the ride is not so harsh and feeling like the front suspension is "packing". Also a good part of the valving on this shock is that the rebound is firmer so the rebound travel is slowed down and your suspension does not top out as fast and abrupt (harsh). On the highway these shocks with the firmer rebound will give the feeling of the truck being planted on the highway and not so squashy or body roll when you are in a turn and the suspension is rebounding after a big dip or G-out.


I get a ton of calls for general shock questions or suggestions, I have spent alot of time following up with selective customers that have taken my suggestions purchasing shocks with us and this is what I have really come up with for a truck that has a OE factory stance or mild adjustment on the ride height. The biggest thing to remember is no matter what, if your suspension is over adjusted and there is no or little drop out travel at ride hight and you are looking for a better ride shocks are only going to help if the suspension can move. So lower it down and the ride will be better. I talk more about this common problem here with what we offer to help or fix that problem > http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=283685 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283685) If you are "cranked" up or "keyed" and want a better ride read this. Tons of info and yes we are offering product for sale but really if you read it and understand what to look for to deter man why your ride is harsh then you are 1 step ahead of deciding for yourself what to do, fix it or lower it down.


Hope this info helps alot of people know what to look for or direction to take for what you are looking to fix.

That helps. Got it. This is what was throwing me with the zincs and then the sentence right after seemed to contradict;

"Bilstein calls this the 2" leveling shock but you really need to make sure your 2" of adjustment is not more like 3" in the end or you will still have a harsh ride due to lack of travel at ride height."

Yea you are right. That kinda talks about a different problem and if you are not up to speed on what that meant it could pose alittle weird of a statement. That statement goes along with the last part where I talk about no matter what if the suspension is over adjusted it can't move and the ride will never be good.

Sorry, hope it's pretty straight forward now.:)

All set. Definitely the "zincs". Appreciate the advice Nick!

No problem... Let me know if you need a set, in stock and we have FREE SHIPPING on that package :thumb:

I'm there with that, however am I correct in that these aren't included in your current 25% promo? I should probably pm you.... so I don't hijack this guys thread. Sorry Firescooby.

I'm there with that, however am I correct in that these aren't included in your current 25% promo? I should probably pm you.... so I don't hijack this guys thread. Sorry Firescooby.

Don't apologize, it helped me understand it a little better.

Thanks

Shocks were confusing for me. EVERYONE, has a different opinion on whats best.
Here is what i went with

2)F4-BE5-6140-H0_(2)F4-BE5-6082-H0 Supposedly the fronts are for the T bars being raised 1 inch.

You will not believe the difference. I waited until almost 70k and should have gotten the stock junkers off the day i bought the truck. Empy ride is much much better. Towing the 5ver,, not even like the same truck, HUGE DIFFERENCE. Worth every penny, no matter how much they cost!

I'm there with that, however am I correct in that these aren't included in your current 25% promo? I should probably pm you.... so I don't hijack this guys thread. Sorry Firescooby.


No the Yellow 5100's are the shocks on sale. Sorry, but let me know when you are ready and I am here to help.