I am in the process of sound deadening my interior for my 2007 Classic 4X4 Crew Cab. I pulled out the rear seats, pulled out the trim, carpet and padding and put down Raamat butyl, and ensolite foam. Then put the padding and carpet back. It is now EXTREMELY loud in the truck. WTF. I did pull the rear vent tubes, but left the vent peice that attaches to the back of the cab in place. I didn't seal those off, just left them open with Raamat and ensolite closed cell foam over them. I also haven't replaced the trim peices yet either or put the seats back in.

I beleive the vents are the source of the noise although I am unsure why it would be so much louder. I am thinking of sealing them off because this is ridiculous.

What should I seal them with? I have a can of Water proof "Great Stuff". Any other recommendations? It is unbelievably loud.

Why would you seal them off there there for a reason? I bet it will be quite after you put the interior back in. My truck was a bit louder with just the back seat out.

Maybe I don't have to seal them off then. I even debated on putting the black plastic vent tube back on and stuffing it full of foam. But if you think the seats will absorb/block some of that noise. Maybe I will try that route.

I beleive the vents are the source of the noise although I am unsure why it would be so much louder. I am thinking of sealing them off because this is ridiculous.

What should I seal them with? I have a can of Water proof "Great Stuff". Any other recommendations? It is unbelievably loud.

Maybe I don't have to seal them off then. I even debated on putting the black plastic vent tube back on and stuffing it full of foam. But if you think the seats will absorb/block some of that noise. Maybe I will try that route.

The vents are the source of the noise. If you seal them, get ready for an ear ache every time you close the door due to an "air tight" cab. Can't forget that the AC and heat will take a huge cut also. I've had friends do this in their trucks/cars, only to put them back in. The only one that has not replaced his vents has an SPL system in his truck and does not want the truck to leak sound pressure.

The vents are a one way relief valve, allowing air pressure to escape the cab but not back in. I'm stuffing my vent tubes with acoustic foam to cut down on noise. That way they can still "breath", but cut the noise transmission into the cab. Not sure how much this will effect the AC and heat.

Raamat is good stuff. How many layers did you do? I did 2 layers of Dynamat Extreme on the back wall before I was satisfied, with 1 layer everywhere else (pics in garage). Looking to do a mass loaded vinyl on top of the Dynamat on the floor.
John

John, I think you are the one that planted this idea in my head. I remember looking in your garage and thinking wow that's neat. Now look at me??? I started off looking to replace blown speakers, next thing you know I have 2 amps 3000 watts, deadener, a fully active setup, and killer speakers and a custom sub set-up. And here is the kicker (I listen to sports talk radio???) WTF was I thinking. Anyway where are you getting your acoustic foam? I was thinking about using recycled blown in insulation (not fiberglass). I don't want to have to roll the window down to shut my door. Sometimes they freeze in the winter and that would be a big PITA.

I thought i was able to look straight through the vents when I had the black plastic tubes pulled off. I don't recall seeing any rubber valve to stop reverse air flow. I will pull my raamat and check again tonight.

I am starting with 1 layer of Raamat, and 1 of ensolite. If enough is left over, i may add another layer, or do a MLV layer. But I am not sure where the point of diminishing returns is.

Did you notice a huge difference after you deadened your interior?

I'm a bad influnce!:evillol:

The ones I've done/helped with, there was not a huge, stiff rubber baffle. Most of the "flaps" seemed to be a heavy, weather resistant cloth or paper covering a wire mesh to keep bugs and water out. Very few cars/trucks that I've done systems in have had a rubber flap. Most of the late model trucks seem to have just the wire mesh with the vents angled down to prevent water from coming in.

I'm getting my acoustic foam from a local music store. It's the same stuff that gets glued up on the walls of studios. It's a funky gray or black foam with pyramids instead of and "egg crate" design. Egg crate foam should work the same, I just didn't want to have to color it.

I'll probably get my MLV from Second Skin since it's designed for car audio. I'll use the MLV on the floor since the weight will probably prevent me from using it on vertical surfaces. I've been looking at other sources of MLV, but none seem to really fit the application I'm using it for. I had a source for the "lead curtains" used in nuk subs, but shipping cost killed that idea. The buytl adds mass, which helps kill panel virbration noise. But a second mass layer separated by acoustic foam from the 1st layer helps kill the higher frequency noise.

You do not need 2 layers everywhere, just select locations. I found that the back wall needed 2 layers to be dead enough. I'll probably put a 2nd layer on the outer door skins. I need to put some ensolite on the backs of my plastic panels to kill their virbration noise.

The Dynamat made a huge difference in the noise level in my truck. I've picked up some tire/road noise by going to an all terain tire, but hope to kill most of that noise with the MLV. Can't deaden the windows, which will always let a ton of noise pass.:p:
John

I mostly sealed up the vents on the 02', and the last door to close is pretty stiff. The truck is extremely quiet inside, and the heat/AC still works well.
Hey John, you still have the SPL plots handy? My old PC died with the last ones you sent me.

I have the interior out of my truck (started last weekend) my Raamat and ensolite should be here beginning of next week. Did you guys put the jute back in on top of your sound deadener on the floor?
Also, what about the plastic seal under the door panels? Did you guys reuse that or trash it?

Thanks for the help.

John, I think you are the one that planted this idea in my head. I remember looking in your garage and thinking wow that's neat. Now look at me???


That’s funny I saw his thread awhile back and started looking up Dynamat never did the dynatmat but his pic of the roof with the headliner removed gave me the idea where I could install the brackets for my gun racks

I mostly sealed up the vents on the 02', and the last door to close is pretty stiff. The truck is extremely quiet inside, and the heat/AC still works well.
Hey John, you still have the SPL plots handy? My old PC died with the last ones you sent me.

If you had completely covered them, the AC/heat would not work as well. The system just is not designed for an airtight cabin.

I dug through my messages, but don't see them any longer. Just let me know your e-mail and the woofer(s) you have/want and I can re-create them. If you know the box volume, number of woofers, also sealed/ported and I can get real specific with the specs.

I have the interior out of my truck (started last weekend) my Raamat and ensolite should be here beginning of next week. Did you guys put the jute back in on top of your sound deadener on the floor?
Also, what about the plastic seal under the door panels? Did you guys reuse that or trash it?

Thanks for the help.
I put the jute back in (every little bit helps). I also kept the vapor seal on the doors, but I did not do 100% coverage on the inner door sheet metal (see garage pics) that the deadening websites show. I want to be able to see and get to all the screws/nuts/bolts/rivets if there is a problem inside the door. Been there, done that, cussed at myself for doing 100% coverage when I had to replace a power window motor. It made the job 1000 times worse.:shootself:cussing::damnit1::banghead:

That’s funny I saw his thread awhile back and started looking up Dynamat never did the dynatmat but his pic of the roof with the headliner removed gave me the idea where I could install the brackets for my gun racks
Glad my pain was of service to someone else.:p:
John

I cut the tubes down significantly and recovered the vents with them. This greatly reduced the road noise. I looked into the vents before covering them and I have a black piece of rubber loosely hanging over the opening. It is a little curled, and certainly doesn't prevent anything from coming into the cab. You can see a lot of air around it. It is like a little piece of curled mud flap.

I am going to stuff it full of acoustic foam today. I even though about stuffing a sponge in there. But not sure if it would be as good as the foam.

I would have to say this is the number 1 most important part of the entire sound deadening project. Why spend 20 hours and several hundred dollars to deaden the truck, and ignore the wide open holes by the rear tires.

Sweet. I'm not cutting down my tubes (yet?:rolleyes:) since I have a center console sub.

In theory, the vent tubes act like any factory intake system. Not in the fact that it's a compromise of preformance, but that they are designed as a noise suppression system.
John

I'll have to work on those specs. I have the subs now for the 09', just pondering my box options. Thinking of doing the Subthump box, but need to look up what the Rainbows I have want for air space. I've had the top of the line Rainbow comps and Vandium subs, amps etc. in boxes for about two years now. Wanted to upgrade the 02' and never got around to it. Now they will be in the 09'. The vandiums are 12's which may be too much for under the seat....

They should go in that box, but the Euro Rainbow website does not list specs for them. The subs are not really too bad in that size box. The frequency response is off a little in the .83 cu ft subthump enclosure. The recommended size is 30l (1.06 cu ft), which is better but not worth the hassle to build. I compared a couple of other subs in the same size enclosure to give me some reference, some faired a little better, some much worse. I tried the Vandium 10 in the same box and it didn't buy anything. Go with the 12's with the amp turned down. You can romp with the turn of the knob.:p:
John

Hey John. It was like Christmas all over again. Got out gear i had stashed, and opened some boxes for the first time. The rainbow Power series comps look real mean...hope the 3 3/4" mounting depth isn't an issue, but should have room. The Cal 27 tweets will take some thought as they are flush mount only. Getting more Rammat, and have decided to go with that subthump box for the vandiums. I will push those with the Rainbow Kraftworx 2000W amp. Could I bother you for an SPL plot for that set up? I have some info at home that came with the subs if that would help, though some of it is in German.

PM me your e-mail address.
John

Will do. Does their specs help out at all? It's been a while and I forgot some of this stuff.

I found the specs from the 1st time, so no problem there. I'll get it to you later today or Friday morning.

My 6 1/2" mid-bass driver is almost 3" and it's not close IMO. The 8" midbass I want in the door is the same depth, so you may have do a 1/4" spacer. If you are only doing a 2 way front the best stage/sound will come from custom kicks for the 6 1/2's and custom A-pillar mounts for the tweets. The Cal 27 tweets are very nice.
John

Who does custom mounts? These are the first tweeters i've owned that came flush mount only. The Mb is 7"...Maybe a bit of tweaking....

A friend of mine that has more time then me is doing my custom A-pillar and kick panel mounts. Check out some of the high end audio shops in your area about getting custom mounts made. Or go to a show (IASCA, MECA, USAC, etc) where you can look around and ask questions.

You can get a 7" midbass driver to work in the door, but you will have to cut the door or build a spacer (or both). I tried a 7" midbass in my doors (with a 3/8" spacer) for a while, but did not like the way the new drivers sounded so I went back to 6 1/2" drivers.

Seems we hi-jacked Thohawk's thread! Sorry man.
John

whats the sound deadening cost? im interested!

Depends on how much you want. Several good brands out there. I like Dynamat Extreme, but Raamat and Second Skin are good stuff also. See my garage for pics.
John