Over the last couple weeks, I have probably taken years off the life of my starter, and its starting to show.
(see post: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=327976 to get the scoop on why I have had to put my starter though so much stress lately)

Sometimes I will turn the key and just hear a single "click", but after a few more turns and clicks, it always turns over...for now.


Stopped by NAPA today, and the part is almost $300!


I've rebuilt window motors, headlight assembly motors, and a few other random things like that. I'm confident I can get the thing apart, clean it, replace parts that look like they are worn, get it back together the right way, but will it even matter?

I know the solenoid is good, cause of the single "click" I hear with every key turn, but the starter is on its way out, and I don't want it to leave me stranded somewhere...


THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ALL YOUR INPUT!!

The cost of the solonoid and drive is more than a remaned starter. LMC truck sells a kit with just bushings and brushes for aprox $25.

i agree the solenoid is expensive here is the cost for us here in Canada off the napa webb site .i bring mine into a place that rebuilds them and they check the starter and only repairs whats broken and charges you accordingly.

NEU 465092
Starter w/ Solenoid - Remfd - Premium $282.79 core 110.00

WIL 91013927
Starter - Remfd $324.79 core 40.00

NEU 4N5092
Starter - New $388.19

UNI ST151
Starter Solenoid Switch $502.79

WIL 60013599
Starter Solenoid Switch $49.09 core 2.00

as long as the starter isn't damaged(burnt windings etc) it can be rebuilt. All you'd need is a new set of brushes and a solenoid. I'm going to rebuild both the gear reduction starter in my 6.5 and the direct drive starter in my 6.2 when the time comes.

I still can't believe how expensive that solenoid is. That's insane. :eek:

I would stick with a GM reman unit. If the original lasted this long, I see no reason not to put anything less on. If you look around, ACDelco parts are very comparable to cheaper mass-produced units. Also, there are things you can keep replacing if they fail - that are easy to R&R. Starters are not so easy or fun to crawl under and replace. Do it once, do it right.

ACDELCO Part # 3361912 {#19136221}
STARTER,(REMAN) REGULAR CAB; 2 WHEEL DRIVE; DELCO 28MT; 5.0 KW
STARTER,(REMAN) EXTENDED CAB; 2 WHEEL DRIVE; DELCO 28MT; 5.0 KW

$249.79

http://198.208.187.182/servlet/com.entigo.acdelcocatalog.servlet.ProcessImageServ let?languagecd=EN&countrycd=US&user=InternetUser&mfgname=ACDELCO&prodlinecd=33&acpartnbr=336-1912

Just because your selenoid clicks does not mean it is good. The click is the selenoid trying to work. There is a electrical contact usually a disc that becomes burned over time and it will get to the point it will not let electrical current through it. If your starter is still working generally like said above brushes etc will fix it.

Just because your selenoid clicks does not mean it is good. The click is the selenoid trying to work. There is a electrical contact usually a disc that becomes burned over time and it will get to the point it will not let electrical current through it. If your starter is still working generally like said above brushes etc will fix it.


Excellent post!

It can be done, but I found it easier to just replace than rebuild it myself.

If you have a shop that is honest, like the one liftemhigh found, and you can wait with no truck while it gets done, this also is a good option.

Something else to consider. I recently replaced the old direct drive starter on my 1983 6.2 with a gear reduction unit. A local auto electric shop (in business for years and very trustworthy) got the GR starter for me for $225 US$. It works faster and draws less current.

Don

Something else to consider. I recently replaced the old direct drive starter on my 1983 6.2 with a gear reduction unit. A local auto electric shop (in business for years and very trustworthy) got the GR starter for me for $225 US$. It works faster and draws less current.

Don

iirc All the 6.5 starters are gear reduction, Handcannon.

Something else to consider. I recently replaced the old direct drive starter on my 1983 6.2 with a gear reduction unit. A local auto electric shop (in business for years and very trustworthy) got the GR starter for me for $225 US$. It works faster and draws less current.

Don

The 6.2's are originally equipped with direct drive starters. GuyBB3, I think you just missed that he put 6.2, and not 6.5 :)

the direct drive pulls a good bit over the gear reduction. i know my gear reduction pulls 400 amps when spinning the motor over normally(no GPs or injectors removed to drop compression). I'd say the direct drive would pull a good bit more than that. I've got to pull my starter down and check it out one of these days. Also found some battery cables from a 6.9/7.3 IDI in the junkyard today. Damn did ford put some seriously thick battery cables on those trucks. Time for a custom crossover or starter cable.

So guys, is the starter solenoid the same on the all 6.2 and 6.5 starters?

I believe they are,on the 89 and up at least.I have two 6.2's and three 6.5's. all starters interchange between the two. parts are the same too.
I have rebuild a handfull of them.

I believe the later 6.2s had gear reduction starters so I'm sure those are the same. I've never compared the direct drive and the gear reduction side by side. Wouldn't surprise me if those are the same also.

Ok, so I never got around to rebuilding the starter the weekend that I initially posted this, and now its worse. I have time today to spend on it, and work tomorrow, so trying to knock it out.

Just bought a house about 6 weeks ago, and all the major appliances are dropping like flies. A/C went out the weekend I was supposed to rebuild starter, and kept me busy until work on Monday morning. Pool pump started actin up Tuesday, and is now fried. Found a propane leak on Friday night, refridgerator has a puddle in front of it every morning now, and stove-top bit the dust yesterday (Saturday).
:help:


I'm afraid that anything I touch in this house is going to break.

In the midst of all this, truck stalled on me Friday afternoon and having more starter issues. It makes a different, slower sound as usual.

Play by play of the action the truck saw the last few days:
Friday:
Stalled around 430pm, and could not get to restart. The battery terminal adapter got so hot from my crakin the starter so much it actually melted. Nothing I could do, I'm out of AAA, I walked home.
Saturday:
Replaced melted battery terminal adapter with a gold plated one.
Had a friend come help me charge my batteries back up, got it started again, and drove it straight home.
Hooked up my battery charger to make sure batteries where fully charged next time I tried messing with it.

As of Saturday night after charging the batteries, this is the sound the starter makes.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/bangta/th_9-20-09Starter.jpg (http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/bangta/?action=view&current=9-20-09Starter.flv)
** I only stuck camera under the truck so everyone could get a better listen at it; the fluid thats under it is run off from PB Blaster-ing the starter, not a leak. I already checked both batteries with a volt meter, and they both read ~12-13v, as does the volt meter on dash. **

Is this starter even eligible for a rebuild anymore? Not sure how it went from cranking fine straight to this from a battery charge (12v/50amp for about an hour on each battery).


I flat out don't have $250 to drop on a new one, or even any money to repair all this broken crap in my house; but if that's the only way...Censored !


THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ALL THE INPUT AND HELP!!

No need to drop $250. I have 2 starters for sale. One is new, never used from ebay. I paid $105.95 including shipping. Probably Chinese though. The other is the lifetime Auto Zone that sells for a bit over $200. It was replaced a couple months before I sent the truck to the boneyard. I would like to get close to what I paid for the Chinese one and $150 would work for the Auto Zone one.
Ted

Thanks for the offer TedReminder.

I try to stick to either AC Delco parts, Heath, or NAPA, but when you say "lifetime", do you mean lifetime warranty? Assuming its transferrable, would I need a receipt to exchange it if it goes out, or do I just bring them the part?


You take paypal? How soon could you get it to me? (Zip: 33558)



Thanks!

I have the receipt from when they replaced the original on 7/11/09. That should be good for the warranty. Auto Zone stock # for the starter is-DL8402S.
I can fit it in a USPS 12"x12"x5 1/2" box so shipping should be reasonable.
Probably weighs 20# or so. Do you need bolts or the bracket that goes to the block?
I have a pretty high trust for forum members, so I can ship it Monday and let you know how much it cost to ship. $150 + shipping,, right?
Ted

TedReminder, as long as all the brackets and bolts are reusable, then no, I don't need them.

Let me know how much shipping would be to 33558.


I'm considering headin to a bone yard tomorrow morning and pulling one. I need to have this truck up and running asap and for as little funds as possible!

I work ~70 hours a week, w/o my truck, I may loose one of my jobs as early as tomorrow. I just moved to a new part of town, and I don't even know anyone to ask for a ride or borrow their car.

...it appears, I'm SOL for the time being.


TedReminder, let me know how much shipping to 33558 would be.


Everyone: is there a way to test a starter in the field of a junk yard? The last thing I need is to bring home a broken part...


THANKS!

Yes there is more or less. You need a good batt and jump start cables.

clamp the pos cable on batt + and stud nut on starter(do not use the treaded part,it may damage(burn) the treads.
clamp neg cable on batt - and starter body.
Hold the starter firmly and jump small starter stud to pos clamp.
It should slam into motion and spin fast to be any good

I'm pretty sure USPs can ship it under $15 in a flat rate box.

i got a re-manufactured starter for my 98 for $154 and it is loaded with power. i can feel it in the key