i know alot of people wonder whats the benefit and all that jazz of a synthetic oil, well i did some work and spent SOME GOOD money about $300 so far if not more and redid the front and rear diff, T case and engine oil, (trans is up next waiting on money) with Royal Purple products. Before i did all this on my tank of 42gal of, diesel i would avg 465miles a tank, now im avg 530-540miles. I've driven like a granny for a tank and a lead foot still 520+ miles. NOW im not trying to promote RP, im just saying that spending the extra money on a syn oil does work at the price diesel is starting to come up again its saving me money. probably all of you who read this say pssh "i know all this its not news to me", but i did the work and spent the money and i am impressed! :D

I've been using Amsoil for years....Synthetic oils do work....

not a fan of amsoil used it once and had a bad feel but still good stuff, use it in all my sleds

All that for .86 increase in MPG ??? That number was obtained by predicating 42 Gallon used on both fill up's. 11.90 MPG average.1000 miles driven/84 gallons used.Not great MPG IMO!Of course you stated you drove hard on one tank !!Better keep the drawing board up!

IMO none of our trucks will get GREAT MPG...he's simply stating he got better, keep up the work Gixxer, we appreciate the money you've spent to test this theory, and I'll keep using RP products in my vehicle as well!.

if you do the math, any increase is a plus, $120 for an oil change on RP, every 20000km, versus $40 every 5000km equals a savings in oil, and any MPG increase if even .86 still means less money spent using RP, a penny saved is a penny earned

thanks guys im still wondering what will happen when i do the trans but upon fill up i only fill up with 36-38 gallons so maybe .01 increase but still more

thanks guys im still wondering what will happen when i do the trans but upon fill up i only fill up with 36-38 gallons so maybe .01 increase but still more

I noticed the biggest jump in milage gained when I switched the trans fluid to RP's Max ATF, but even with RP JUST in the engine, I still got a decent boost when on the highway.

When money allows I gotta switch all the other fluids too.

IMO none of our trucks will get GREAT MPG...he's simply stating he got better, keep up the work Gixxer, we appreciate the money you've spent to test this theory, and I'll keep using RP products in my vehicle as well!.

if you do the math, any increase is a plus, $120 for an oil change on RP, every 20000km, versus $40 every 5000km equals a savings in oil, and any MPG increase if even .86 still means less money spent using RP, a penny saved is a penny earned

Switching to any brand syn that meets the specs for your vehicle will net you from pennies to dollars. I have heard stories of people gaining multiple miles per gallon when switching and I call BS on it. But in my real world experience with my truck and many other customer trucks a 5% increase in fuel mileage is very common for switching the engine over only. That 5% amounts to .5 (1/2) mpg in a truck getting 16 mpg. That .5 will get you 24 more miles per tank which is 1 1/3 gallon of fuel at approx 3.00 per gallon that a 4.00 savings every tank. So the question is how many tanks do you buy a year in your truck? Do the math and that will be your savings per year just for using a synthetic oil. Then when you add extended oil changes it really does add up over a years time when you do the math.

I do cost analysis for people all the time and the more miles per year you drive the more money you save going to synthetics. Then if you add in your time for oil changes, which is cut in half usually it really adds up. Thats how I went to synthetics in the first place and I am happy about it.

You have to be happy about your decisions when it comes to the products you use. I always say do the research and don't take my word on it. Then if you like what your seeing and hearing from others give me a chance to make you an offer for Amsoil products to be your synthetic of choice.

When I build my new 6.5 (a project I'm just getting started on, only 175 on my motor now, should last a while longer :)) I'm going to be trying for max power and reliability. I'm planning on running synthetics and a bypass filter system in that from day 1. I was really impressed with the article I read about the Ford 7.3 Amisol "turtle" that drove across Russia. I have done the math, and from the figures I have read, it does save time and money. I can only figure that the decreased friction would also improve engine life.

So my question is, would it be worth it to start running it in my high milage motor now?

The problem I see is that I have a lot of blowby. I change the oil every 3000 miles (or less depending on what kind of driving I was doing) and its DIRTY. I realize that will be true for any older diesel compared to gas, but mine is particularly bad, even for a 6.5. This motor was very abused before I got it and it ran probably 5-10k miles without an oil change on more than one occasion. It went more than 15k (that I know of) with no lift pump and no turbo boiling black smoke and fishbiting at highway speed. I think I'm still getting that cleaned out of the crankcase with each oil change.

If I were to switch this motor to sythetics I would be to worried about the buildup of crud to go more than 5-6k miles and I don't think that would help save any $.

I switch back and forth from dino in the summer to syn in the winter......works for me.

When I build my new 6.5 (a project I'm just getting started on, only 175 on my motor now, should last a while longer :)) I'm going to be trying for max power and reliability. I'm planning on running synthetics and a bypass filter system in that from day 1. I was really impressed with the article I read about the Ford 7.3 Amisol "turtle" that drove across Russia. I have done the math, and from the figures I have read, it does save time and money. I can only figure that the decreased friction would also improve engine life.

So my question is, would it be worth it to start running it in my high milage motor now?

The problem I see is that I have a lot of blowby. I change the oil every 3000 miles (or less depending on what kind of driving I was doing) and its DIRTY. I realize that will be true for any older diesel compared to gas, but mine is particularly bad, even for a 6.5. This motor was very abused before I got it and it ran probably 5-10k miles without an oil change on more than one occasion. It went more than 15k (that I know of) with no lift pump and no turbo boiling black smoke and fishbiting at highway speed. I think I'm still getting that cleaned out of the crankcase with each oil change.

If I were to switch this motor to sythetics I would be to worried about the buildup of crud to go more than 5-6k miles and I don't think that would help save any $.

If this high mileage motor leaks alot or has a pretty good crud build up already then the detergent in the syn will clean the crud up and the seals that are deteriorated will possibly start leaking with no crud to seal them. If a motor was taken care of, is in good running condition and is a high mileage motor then it would still be ok to switch to syn and reap the benefits of syn which is less increased mpg, less friction = lower running temps, extended oil change intervals and higher detergent concentrations keeping internals cleaner. In an ill running motor it probably isn't cost effective to switch it over.

In a well taken care of high mileage motor I would do an engine flush before the switch to clean up the oil vaporization (brown crud on the top 3" of the dip stick) which can build up all over the internals of the engine with prolonged use of conventional oils with out religious oil changes.

I have run Amsoil for five years now. Ran RP for a couple before that and will never let RP touch anything I own again. IIRC, RP is a Group III synthetic, not a Group IV like Amsoil.

thanks guys im still wondering what will happen when i do the trans

You should have done the trans FIRST

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

You should have done the trans FIRST

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:


that was a little bit more spendy than the rest SOOO i changed more for less at the moment :nutkick:

that was a little bit more spendy

You cant afford to service a transmission?

:duh::duh::duh::duh:

You cant afford to service a transmission?

:duh::duh::duh::duh:

at 13 a qrt and 12 in a case plas tax= $167.31 its cheaper to take care of the rest at the moment than do that in one shot :stick_out:stick_out

I think high mileage drain time could be OK' with a bypass filter system. Test by BLACKSTONE Labs for occuring wear rate.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e156/bondjames85/TimingChain.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e156/bondjames85/TimingCover.jpg

No crud build up on the internals of this motor! clean as a whistle!!! :)


Now that we have determied that its not cost effective to switch to Amisol, the question becomes, Do you think switching to Amisol and keeping oil changes at 5k or so would extend the life of the old motor? If so, would it contribute enough to extended engine life that, perhaps, one could count the extra 10-20, 50k miles in $ and say that the extra cost of the oil (and increased leaking) was worth the extra miles the motor went.