Looking for some advice from the tranny peps.Others will enjoy the read I'm sure,could be bad. :o:


New tranny on the way but I just can't let it sit.

I'm throwing a 1711 continually which is stuck open E solenoid.
First can you tell me more about this solenoid which controls clutch lock up?
Do you think it's just a symptom of clutch pack wearing beyond possible lock up or is it faulty or debris?Constantly seeing slip?
I had a similar experience with a TC lock up F solenoid code when I had a soft lock up and no lock up.I changed the solenoid according to the diagnostics,did nothing.This turned out to be a problem with converter fill and drain valve.

The 1711 comes when the transmission gets up to operating temp which happens quick.The truck will stop down shifting and default to 4th with no TC lock up.Not fun to drive ex specially on a hill.I had to pass more than person as to not stop momentum.At first it took awhile to throw the code but definitely happening sooner now.

In addition when it defaults to 4th reverse is nill to non at best.Clutches are tied up as it wants to go forward not reverse and binds.In addition in ANY selected indicator spot INCLUDING neutral truck will creep forward and I can actually drive in neutral as well as OD.I have had some chirping 4/3 downshifts too.That'll scare most of you from turning the key in the ignition.

I have to drop the Mag Hytec and install the shallow pan for removal.This will give me a chance to inspect the pan and change the fluid drain the converter for giggles.

Think I should waste my time change solenoids as perhaps it debris or think it's just a symptom to final demise?

Just looking for some comments,thanks

Edit: Not a stock transmission

CALL SUNCOAST JOE IM SURE HES SEEN THIS PROBLEM BEFORE ):h

You might have too much contamination present Mac.
Might have to drop the VB and clean it.
Change filters, Change Fluid, reset TAPs
If that fixes nothing, you might be SOL

But it might be worth a try if nothing else... we have all seen trannies not shift if the spin on filter is even remotely plugged up!

Well I know that I just changed the spin on filter on my truck and it made a world of difference. What is the deal with resetting the taps?

You might have too much contamination present Mac.
Might have to drop the VB and clean it.
Change filters, Change Fluid, reset TAPs
If that fixes nothing, you might be SOL

But it might be worth a try if nothing else... we have all seen trannies not shift if the spin on filter is even remotely plugged up!

Not going to drop the valvebody more than I care to do as it coming out soon. I changed the spin on just three weeks ago and there isn't much time on it.

Guess I'm just experimenting to drain all the life out of it,getting my monies worth ;)


I figure if the Solenoid is cheap I'll just swap it when I change the fluid swapping pans.I'll let those know that want to learn

Thanks Juice

IIRC the solenoids are Expen$ive.... somewhere near 100 a pop.

Mackin - my Transgo book says that code 1711 is "pressure switch E circuit low/stuck closed". The "pressure switch" is not a shift solenoid, it's the flat plate like piece that mounts to the bottom of the VB. This switch is normally open.

Perhaps someone "in the know" can tell you more. I would hate to see you tear up a good transmission because of a $100 part. LOL

Mac, when is the new unit arriving?

Mac
Yor code indicates that the pressure switch manifold ( flat switch discribed above that bolts to valve body) did not see the signal it was supposed to. The valve must move under pressure and then it grounds the switch. This does not mean your PSM is bad, but rather that the E shift valve did not move to ground the switch. What did you see in the pan? Did you cut the spin-on in half? Call me in the am.
mike

Mackin - my Transgo book says that code 1711 is "pressure switch E circuit low/stuck closed". The "pressure switch" is not a shift solenoid, it's the flat plate like piece that mounts to the bottom of the VB. This switch is normally open.

Perhaps someone "in the know" can tell you more. I would hate to see you tear up a good transmission because of a $100 part. LOL

Nah it's the original build ;)

I was going by Tech II diagnostics.Somewhere I got a Shift solenoid E diagnostic. I have also seen the Pressure Switch diagnostic wording.

I will double check,I've been wrong before :o:

Mac, when is the new unit arriving?


Not really sure but it should have been here already,money has exchanged hands a week ago or better.I heard someone got bumped,I hope not

Mac
Yor code indicates that the pressure switch manifold ( flat switch discribed above that bolts to valve body) did not see the signal it was supposed to. The valve must move under pressure and then it grounds the switch. This does not mean your PSM is bad, but rather that the E shift valve did not move to ground the switch. What did you see in the pan? Did you cut the spin-on in half? Call me in the am.
mike

With the current events I haven't decided what I'm going to do.First up call ATS find out exactly when it should arrive from there I'll decide if I'm going to drop the pan or the entire case.

No time today. :(

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4551

What is it ??


A bedpan :eek:


No wonder u tranny doesn't work ):h

You did use ATF and not 15 40 right? Man that dont look healthy-:t

I don't think everyone can see as I'm linking from a Private Forum. ;)

So here plus one more

I don't think everyone can see as I'm linking from a Private Forum. ;)

So here plus one more
-:t I don't think a filter change is gonna clear that one up!:eek:

-:t

-:t I don't think a filter change is gonna clear that one up!:eek:


Nope needs anouther refresh :exactly:

-:t I don't think a filter change is gonna clear that one up!:eek:

Oh Come On.........

Its not that bad............I know the fluid looks bad...........but really.........change that spin on and some fresh ATF...........:cool:

Oh Come On.........

Its not that bad............I know the fluid looks bad...........but really.........change that spin on and some fresh ATF...........:cool:

LOL... if he filled the trans with B&M Trick shift maybe):h

Looks like the frictions have gone to a paraffin heaven.

Bad Hooey!

I can't wait to get into the inside. That's going to be real interesting.There's been more than one of these go down,finally going to see one from the inside.

Perhaps we all will

Anyone want to pay the price of admission? ;)

I've paid to see the guts of an allison and have no desire to pay nor look again ;)

Be interesting to see what was/is letting go and if we can come up with a why. Definatly aint healthy.;)

Anyone want to pay the price of admission? ;)

Mac, I have enough dead frictions ):h Nothing like burning a whole set in 60 feet!:eek: What the heck, it's only 500.00 a set!

Probably going to wreck a sale but I am honest.John Kennedy mentioned the sump filter rubs on the Mag Hytec ribs in the bottom of the pan.Did anyone see the shiny spot(s) there were two) on the bottom of the filter above?

PS I have a Mag Hytec for sale,clean,BO. :)

Probably going to wreck a sale but I am honest.John Kennedy mentioned the sump filter rubs on the Mag Hytec ribs in the bottom of the pan.Did anyone see the shiny spot(s) there were two) on the bottom of the filter above?

PS I have a Mag Hytec for sale,clean,BO. :)

While it's certainly no emergency, I sure don't want these wear particles created in my pan.

Chock this and the bottom sump drain location up to "What were they thinking?" :rant:

While it's certainly no emergency, I sure don't want these wear particles created in my pan.

Chock this and the bottom sump drain location up to "What were they thinking?" :rant:

What was who thinking?

I have a Mag Hytec that was bought right here on the group buy...

Should I be worried?

There is nothing wrong with Mag pans. There is nothing wrong with the rub hole in JKs filter. That mark in his filter is the pan making sure the filter does not drop too low and out of the pump suction cavity. Yes the support is a little high and caused the indentation but that can be filed down a taste. I helped with the final measurements of that pan and I think it is great. Worry about something important, not this.

mike

The filter "tin" is being filed away by this support rib pure and simple. Why add wear particles to the oil? If Mac will inspect his he will likely see the same as mine. There are ridges, valleys, and polishing on the filter tin.

It's not the end of the world as the sump filter is the first line of defense, but still, why muck up the fluid unnecessarily???

The filter "tin" is being filed away by this support rib pure and simple. Why add wear particles to the oil? If Mac will inspect his he will likely see the same as mine. There are ridges, valleys, and polishing on the filter tin.

It's not the end of the world as the sump filter is the first line of defense, but still, why muck up the fluid unnecessarily???

Pray tell; what is this big movement inside your pan? Whomever installed your pan should have seen that there was an interference when the pan would not but up flush. That person decided it was ok and now you drop the pan and place the blame on Mag Hytec. The filter is fine as I see it because there is no movement and the rub hole doesn't mean squat. Who put the pan on? Fess up.

Not really sure but it should have been here already,money has exchanged hands a week ago or better.I heard someone got bumped,I hope not


Mackin ,


Not going for the LCT-1000 Extreme Transmission Package

suppose to hold a 1000 ponies..:eek:

Mackin ,


Not going for the LCT-1000 Extreme Transmission Package

suppose to hold a 1000 ponies..:eek:


Didn't know anything of it when I ordered.I think I'll be safe for awhile at the current ATS capacity.

I think mine rubbed only when the initial install was done now the more I think about it.It was really a indentation more than rubbing,on one side.The "tin" that the internal filter is made of is very thin.If it had rubbed certainly a hole would have appeared and there was NO sign of it.

Certainly when the filter is installed it will move slightly side to side.Compile that with the sump filter designed to be supported by the pan could cause what I seen.

I doubt any pan contamination was resulted in a slight misalignment install that I seen that could be the root cause.I would reuse the pan

Pray tell; what is this big movement inside your pan? Whomever installed your pan should have seen that there was an interference when the pan would not but up flush. That person decided it was ok and now you drop the pan and place the blame on Mag Hytec. The filter is fine as I see it because there is no movement and the rub hole doesn't mean squat. Who put the pan on? Fess up.

My transmission is a Suncoast V built by Suncoast. The capture of the filter between the transmission and the pan is obviously not absolute and the filter can move with vibration as it does in the OE system. The difference here is that instead of the 4 domed points of potential contact we have a bar of rough aluminum contacting at a very narrow point. There are ridges in the filter an polishing. This generated wear metal plain and simple.

I think mine rubbed only when the initial install was done now the more I think about it.It was really a indentation more than rubbing,on one side.The "tin" that the internal filter is made of is very thin.If it had rubbed certainly a hole would have appeared and there was NO sign of it.

Certainly when the filter is installed it will move slightly side to side.Compile that with the sump filter designed to be supported by the pan could cause what I seen.

Mac,

Would this be true with an OEM pan; the rubbing?

Idahofox

Mac,

Would this be true with an OEM pan; the rubbing?

Idahofox

I would say no. It's obvious the Mag Hytec hasn't the exact depth correct.Will or is it detrimental or something to be concerned with?

I highly doubt it