0. Describe in detail the problem you are having. Please be as descriptive as possible.
1. Does the engine crank, or 'turn over'?
YES
1a. Does the engine start and run?
YES
1a1. If the engine does not start - Crack injector line (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2188140#post2188140): do you have fuel (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#)? Yes/No
YES
1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & the amount of time (seconds) lit.
3-5 SECONDS
1c. Ambient Condition (temperature outside indicate F or C) _____ °
80 F
1d. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer).
? it seems to crank normally
1e. Are you experiencing stalling?
NO
1f. If Stalling, describe (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump etc)
1g. If Stalling, do you notice loss of dash or instruments?
-note if experiencing stalling,you must indicate PMD location in #24.

1h. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. Cone filters have lost disk and stopped air to turbo.
FINE NEW STOCK FILTER
1i. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now? yes/no
starts fine hot or cold
1.1 Lift pump test (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39350)- describe results
PLENTY OF VOLUME NO BUBBLES
2. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent
INTERMITTANT
2a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes/No
YES
3. Model year
1994 C2500 Suburban
3a. Odometer reading (indicate if in miles or km)
113,000 MILES
3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump)
"NEW" ENGINE 189.000 MILES new timing chain, front and rear seals, oil pan gasket, and freeze plugs.
3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......)
DS4
4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) yes/no YES
5. List exact results on engine codes (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/dtc.php):
13,34,35,36, AND 78
6. Air Filter condition (visual check)
NEW
7. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed/condition unknown/mileage since changed)
UNKNOWN
8. Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened)
SCRUBBED AND TIGHT
8a. Known condition and age of the batteries.
2-3 YRS OLD CRANKS WELL
8b. Are batteries of differing age or are they a matched set?
MATCHED SET
8c. Condition of Major Grounds (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157085). (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened)
CLEAN AND TIGHT
9. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/no
NO
10. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/no
NO
11. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts?
NO
12. Have you used the block heater, and does this effect engine starting?(only try for starting problems)
BLOCK HEATER WORKS
13. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/no
YES CLOUDS OF SMOKE AND NO POWER
14. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues?
BEYOND EXCESSIVE SMOKING DURING ACCELERATION, NO
15. Turbo check out (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368)- pass/fail
NO END PLAY SPINS FREELY
16. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit)
VIN "F" NO EGR
17. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. C2500
18. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-diesel, #2 Diesel, #1Diesel,#2 SVO/WVO, other
#2 DIESEL WILL USE WVO LATER
18a. If running a VO (Veggie Oil fuel) setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade, or packaged system)
WIL BE PACKAGED SYSTEM
19. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list.
NO 500 PPM SULPHER DIESEL ONLY
20. Please indicate geographic region you are in: (example: Texas or Canada)
OHIO
21. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having?
NO
22. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better.
RELOCATED PMD TO BELOW FRONT BUMPER ON HEAT SINK
23. Upon unscrewing the fuel cap (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42338), do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? yes/no
NO
24. Location of PMD/FSD (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39436)? On the pump/remoted over intake/remoted out of engine bay (please specify placement specifically)
UNDER BUMPER ON AFTERMARKET HEAT SINK
24a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from a vendor?)
EXTENDED @ HOME, I SIZE BIGGER WIRE, SOLDERED ( WESTERN UNION SPLICE) AND HEAT SHRINK. WRAPPED WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE AND COVERED WITH PLASTIC WIRE LOOM (CONVOLUTED)
24b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. ON PUMP SHOULD I ADD A GROUND TO PMD?
25. Are ALL glow plugs in proper working order as per this thread (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39182)?
ALL GLOW PLUGS WORKING PROPERLY

O.K. here goes,

The engine was changed due to the previous owner running it out of oil ("It just ran slower and slower until it stopped!"). :eek:
I believe the air filter was so dirty it pulled all the oil out through the turbo.
Hence the "new" engine.

I changed the timing chain and the IP is out of time.:o:

I tried to put it back where it was ( and everywhere else too! when advanced to the limit the symptoms are somewhat less such as the cyclic idle when revved will fix itself after a few cycles but there is more combustion knock)

The engine starts instantly no smoke on startup.

No smoke weather or not I wait for glow plugs.

The engine idles rough for 10 seconds or so and then idles smooth.

If revved up the engine cycles up and down as if you are tapping the pedal once a second and will continue to do this until the vehicle is put in gear (automatic 4L80e).

The engine is overly sensitive to light touch of the pedal and seemingly insensitive to heavy throttle. The engine smokes excessively under heavy throttle and does not seem to go any faster.

The turbo is silent as far as I can tell.

Here is the biggest problem,

The vehicle will not hold a steady speed above 35 MPH. If you try to hold a steady speed it shakes so bad I'm afraid it will break the engine mounts!

You have to accelerate about 1 mph per second or coast or it shakes like a dog pooping a pineapple!

I have tried a different PMD module with the same results.

I know next to nothing about diesels and I need help!

13,34,35,36: these codes point to the IP. The IP expert can help you there but it usually points to the need of new IP. That explains the sensitivity of the pedal and heavy throttle, something about the Armature in IP that is bad.

78: unrelated to IP, you need to check your vacuum system to see if there is any leak. If not, change the Turbo Wastegate Solenoid.

If your IP isn't set or running right, you can't get good boost. Sound right?
Fix the IP; set it by the book, if still no boost, then t-shoot the vacuum system. When my vac pump died, it was the perfect time to make my TM. Set the boost for 11psi; no codes, good power, not much smoke.

Who is the IP expert? Can you tell me if that is the problem or is it something else?
Did I screw up when I extended my harness? I think there were 2 black or 2 red wires maybe I mixed them up? I have another IP from the old engine but I don't want to waste a day switching it out if it isn't the problem. Could the computer be dead? Or maybe the chip?
Any and all theories and/or comments would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

anyone?,anyone?,Buhler?!

Computer or chips hardly the culprit.

Try hooking up the PMD directly to the stock connector without the extension and see if that solves your problem. Just to make sure your cable is good. Clear the code and see if it shows up again.

Make sure the PMD still mounted on heatsink when you do it.

I agree with the possibility that you have two problems. The IP seems to be involved with the erratic running, but the black smoke problem is usually the vacuum turbo wastegate system. You likely need IP work, but first I would try a good fuel lubricity additive like Stanadyne (lubricity formula) or if available, biodiesel, which has the best lubricity of all. Our IP isn't very happy with low sulpher diesel. Also check for vacuum at the wastegate. I put a tee in the line and ran a hose to a guage that I could watch while driving. It showed me that I was dropping vacuum just when it was needed, like pulling a hill. Rather than buy any parts, I built a turbomaster. You should replace your fuel filter, but if you can get biodiesel, wait until you have run a tank of it, as it will clean gunk from the fuel system. Good luck

Thanks guys!
I will search turbomaster or can you folks tell me how to make one?

I have a couple of pictures of my turbo master in my garage you can check out

The silly thing started to run better today.???
Then after I charged the a/c and filled it up with fuel it started to run bad again.
It was then that I noticed that the voltmeter was showing about 12.5 volts.
I noticed in another thread that he was having the same stutter and problems
holding a steady speed. I think perhaps the alternator/grounds may be the whole problem.
BTW the other thread was "Wierdest thing I ever saw".
Thanks everyone for your help. I hope this fixes it.
Submarine

This morning after being charged all night it started right up and ran.
For 22 seconds.
Then it stalled and would not restart.
What do I check and in what order?
Thanks,
Submarine

The PMD on the bumper is brand new?

Sounds like the IP may be bad assuming you have a working PMD.

Again.....Look down




Dump a Quart of SAE 30 nondetergent motor oil in your fuel and 8 oz. of power service (Grey bottle) and reset those codes ......see if any come back.

Check your timing, CPS, etc....... anything to do with throttle

And like JMJ asked, is your PMD new?

no the PMD is an old one.
I put some "diesel 911 stuff and drove it all over God's green earth and then I filled it up with 500 PPM sulpher Diesel about 20 miles before it quit.:mad:

I'm beginning to slightly dislike this vehicle.:(:mad:

where do I get "power service grey bottle"? and what does the 30 wt nd oil do?

I disconnected the batteries for about 2 minutes and it didn't clear the codes.
It still has codes 13,34,35,36, and 78.
Do I have to disconnect the batteries longer?

Thanx in Advance,
Submarine

13 - Engine shutoff solenoid circuit fault
34 - Injection timing stepper motor fault
35 - Injection pulse width error (response time short)
36 - Injection pulse width error (response time long)
78 - Turbo wastegate solenoid fault

Is it 20-30 minutes wait when you disconnect the batteries? I don't remember off hand...

BTW, have you made sure that all connections around the IP and intake are all connected completely?

I would start out by checking the timing on the injection pump... you can do that by using a TechII or GMTD Scan Tech. I would start there anyway... Unless you already know that the IP is correctly timed.

Diesel911 is only needed when you have frozen diesel fuel.

It is completely alcohol. Alcohol and diesel fuel don't mix too well.
Alcohol is good to mix with gasoline but even that is debatable.

Also, NEVER use Starting fluid.

Please don't do it again. If there is something wrong with the IP, you will make it worst.

I would try to get a BRAND NEW PMD to try before messing with IP timing and such.
Of course, the IP may turn out to be bad.

Diesel911 is only needed when you have frozen diesel fuel.

It is completely alcohol. Alcohol and diesel fuel don't mix too well.
Alcohol is good to mix with gasoline but even that is debatable.

Also, NEVER use Starting fluid.

Please don't do it again. If there is something wrong with the IP, you will make it worst.

I would try to get a BRAND NEW PMD to try before messing with IP timing and such.
Of course, the IP may turn out to be bad.


X2.........and dump some SAE 30 in there.....Get the Power Service and the Oil in any chain parts store.

I disconnected the batteries last night and put them back on this am.

No codes!

But no start either.

Added the 30 wt yesterday and drove it a bunch ( 70 miles).

The other PMD runs just the same.

Checked all the connections yesterday. All clean and plugged in.

I think I'm going to change the IP Saturday.

The IP is from the original engine that was running until the P.O. ran it out of oil.

Any hints about changing the IP?

Thanx again in advance,

Submarine

P.S. I got the propeller to put on the back!

Changed the IP and it runs great!
Well sort of.
The lift pump quit.
I jumped the relay and it seemed to be shorted.
What lift pump should I buy?
I work @ Summit Racing and we have a bunch of pumps there.
Does anyone know what volume/pressure I need?
I assume the pump would have to be able to pull from the tank. Is this correct?
BTW Thanks for all the help and education from everyone that replied to my cries for help!
Going to bed now. Just got off the tow truck ( again).

Submarine

New lift pump installed.
More Problems.
Runs good for an hour then quits.
Will run for 1 minute or less. Got home in 1 minute jumps.
New lift pump works well. Not the lift pump relay or the OPS.
I hot wired the lift pump@ the relay with no change.
got codes15,78,85,86,and 91-98.
15 and 78 i understand and 91-98 i get also because it was running bad.
85 is undefined ratio fault and 86 is low ratio fault.
and ideas? It runs great for the first half hour or 45 minutes and then this nonsense.

Please help.

Submarine

P.S. I tried the room temp water trick on the IP to no effect.
Perhaps the IP filter?

94, you need the OPS to run the LP.

Hay Sub, you know a guy at Summit, last name is Black?
That's my brother's brother in law.
I'm up in Streetsboro.
Ted

Hay Sub, you know a guy at Summit, last name is Black?
That's my brother's brother in law.
I'm up in Streetsboro.
Ted
I don't know . Whats his first name?

Plating in tank flaked off and clogged sock in the tank.
Cleaned out tank and removed the sock.

Runs fine now but won't back up. Somethings wrong with the trans.
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Submarine