i'm curious if an SM465 4x4 trans out of an '86 pickup will bolt right in, in place of the beat to hell 700R4 in my blazer. the700R4 has metal flakes in the pan, and even after a fluid change it's still a lovely dark red color and smells burnt. that trans has been severely abused and i honestly don't trust it any further than i could throw it.

I've got a line on a SM465 and the adapter for the NP208(didn't know there was an adapter) and the crossmember for $100.

I've also got another possible that's a rebuilt SM465 with supposedly 0 miles on it and an NP205 t-case for $200.

Both are about an hour and a half away from me so it's a draw as far as distance to travel.

The tranny will not quite bolt right in place. You have to get a flywheel, which is meant for a manual tranny, as well as a clutch (which often come as a kit that includes the pressure plate and a required pilot bearing/bushing). You will also have to get a hold of a pedal assembly, a hydraulic clutch set up, cut a hole in your floor for the shifter, as well as shorten your drive shaft because of the length difference (sm465 is a bit shorter). You might also have to drill holes in the frame for your crossmember, unless there were holes drilled from the factory for it (which is probably the case).


Also, i would buy the one for 100$, because these trannys are rock solid, and are very rarely known to break and will handle easly more twice the power of an n/a 6.2L, so i wouln't really care that it wasn't rebuilt, plus it is half the cost. I don't know the differences in the transfercases though.

The tranny will not quite bolt right in place. You have to get a flywheel, which is meant for a manual tranny, as well as a clutch (which often come as a kit that includes the pressure plate and a required pilot bearing/bushing). You will also have to get a hold of a pedal assembly, a hydraulic clutch set up, cut a hole in your floor for the shifter, as well as shorten your drive shaft because of the length difference (sm465 is a bit shorter). You might also have to drill holes in the frame for your crossmember, unless there were holes drilled from the factory for it (which is probably the case).


Also, i would buy the one for 100$, because these trannys are rock solid, and are very rarely known to break and will handle easly more twice the power of an n/a 6.2L, so i wouln't really care that it wasn't rebuilt, plus it is half the cost. I don't know the differences in the transfercases though.

The flywheel and Clutch setup i'm aware of. I'll have to find a flywheel, i can get a clutch kit. The pedal assembly shouldn't be that hard to find. one from a gasser should work yes?

It's a project i really don't need right now, but i don't know how long that 700R4 will last either. It'd be nice just to have that SM465 for when the time comes. I noticed on the blazer that the tranny tunnel has the "punchout" for the manual trans. I'd just have to cut it out and get the boot that goes over the trans shifter.

I'm not sure on tranny length's with the 700R4 and the SM465. the SM465 does have the adapter for the NP208 which(depending on the thickness of it) will alter the overall length of the trans.

The 205 transfer case is one of the strongest built. It also weights a ton and only has a 1.96:1 ratio in low range. The 208 has a much lighter aluminum case with a lower 2.61:1 reduction in low range. It is also a weaker transfer case. It depends on how abusive you drive.

The 205 transfer case is one of the strongest built. It also weights a ton and only has a 1.96:1 ratio in low range. The 208 has a much lighter aluminum case with a lower 2.61:1 reduction in low range. It is also a weaker transfer case. It depends on how abusive you drive.

I'm having 2nd thoughts on this swap. How difficult is it to rebuild a 700R4? that or will a gasser 700R4 work? I know the torque converter's are different for the gas and diesel applications.

I'm on a pretty much non-existent budget right now, but i'm planning for down the road. I've done a lot of work to the blazer already and i don't want to see it all go to waste if/when that tranny goes.

if you go with the 465, count the number of splines on your output shaft. there are two different versions of the 208 case, 27 and 32 spline. IIRC the 208s behind the 465 all have 32 spline. The 700s all came with 27 spline cases.

Rebuilding a 700R4 takes some special tools and the ability to follow the directions or a good manual. Not a shade tree project. To get an idea of what is involved, this web site has an article on rebuilding one. It is very detailed and has suggestions on making special tool needed. Unfortunately, the last couple of pages are missing.

See my previous post for the web page.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218378&highlight=700r4+joel

The pedal assembly out of a gasser will work. Napa has flywheels for 180 if i remember correctly.

It's not that hard to rebuild it. Just have to be super careful with the seals. I've got a thread in here where I'm working on mine (looks like I'm going to have to buy the actual turbine seal installer/resizing tool). A 700 from a gasser will work fine as long as you use a diesel torque converter and governor.

It's not that hard to rebuild it. Just have to be super careful with the seals. I've got a thread in here where I'm working on mine (looks like I'm going to have to buy the actual turbine seal installer/resizing tool).

Joe AF,

1. Cut a couple of tops and bottoms off Pepsi cans, slit them vertically, so they will lie flat. File off any sharp edges.

2. Wrap one of the cans around the input shaft and slip the seals over the can. Slide the works down until you can get the first seal in the lowest grove. Pull the can up slightly and insert the next seal. do this until all the seals are on the shaft. It might be easier to do one seal at a time.

3. Now wrap a can around and over the seals. The sides of the can should overlap, this is why you want to remove the sharp edges so you don't nick the seals. Use two or three radiator hose clamps and tighten them over the seals - just enough to partially compress the seals back into the groves.

4. You can let them set a few hours to allow them to compress. Next remove the clamp setup and with plenty of assembly lube, insert the shaft into the pump housing allow the seals adjust to the final size.

5. Note: You do NOT want to use the old style seals that are split.

Joe AF,

1. Cut a couple of tops and bottoms off Pepsi cans, slit them vertically, so they will lie flat. File off any sharp edges.

2. Wrap one of the cans around the input shaft and slip the seals over the can. Slide the works down until you can get the first seal in the lowest grove. Pull the can up slightly and insert the next seal. do this until all the seals are on the shaft. It might be easier to do one seal at a time.

3. Now wrap a can around and over the seals. The sides of the can should overlap, this is why you want to remove the sharp edges so you don't nick the seals. Use two or three radiator hose clamps and tighten them over the seals - just enough to partially compress the seals back into the groves.

4. You can let them set a few hours to allow them to compress. Next remove the clamp setup and with plenty of assembly lube, insert the shaft into the pump housing allow the seals adjust to the final size.

5. Note: You do NOT want to use the old style seals that are split.

I may have to give that a shot if I can find some cans..... I can get them on OK, it's the resizing part that I think I'm screwing up a little...... The can would probably work better than what I've tried so far......

The can and clamps will work, the resizing tools are also readily available but fairly expensive unless you get lucky on the big auction site. After clamping them for a period of time (I like to leave them in the clamps overnight), they should hold their shape until you can get them installed in the trans. Just use a good AT assembly lube and take your time, if a seal comes out of the groove, it will cut, roll or pinch and be useless. Be very careful, it's critical. The installer and resizer tools are a great investment if you plan to use them more than once. You can always list and resell them too.

The can and clamps will work, the resizing tools are also readily available but fairly expensive unless you get lucky on the big auction site. After clamping them for a period of time (I like to leave them in the clamps overnight), they should hold their shape until you can get them installed in the trans. Just use a good AT assembly lube and take your time, if a seal comes out of the groove, it will cut, roll or pinch and be useless. Be very careful, it's critical. The installer and resizer tools are a great investment if you plan to use them more than once. You can always list and resell them too.

Cost is the biggest issue right now...... at least till my d-max sells....