Will putting a weight bracket on the front of truck help keep the front wheels from slanting in or will it make it worse? I have stock tie rods, centerlink and no e-locker. I am guessing changing those three would have a bigger impact. Is this true? Thanks for any info.

First I would get some sleeves and center link we have put ours through many bad things and no issues:ro) .Many of our customers have too.Ithink the weight would make it worse .I could be wrong.Mark:ro)

the weight will help, I would still lower your t-bars a few turns and strap it down, with your aggressive meats you better get some sleeves, as long you have weight and sleeves and you lower the t-bars you will not need to strap anymore, no weight you will need to strap it, the centerlink is not needed 100%, just use straps and keep your tie rods parallel to the ground. you should always try for 2 of the 3 with a stock centerlink, with out sleeves I would do all three.

When you say lower the traction bars and strap the front down, what do you mean and how do you go about doing it?

not traction bars, torsion bars, 2 18 mm bolts on a cross member about in the middle of the truck, they set ride heigth in the front and control the ride, they are easy to adjust loosen them and the front end will be lower tighten them for more heigth, just make sure you jack up the front end so a-arms are unloaded , when you pull you want the t-bar keys bottomed out, just count how many turns on each side and when your done put them back where they were, after you do the bars take a 1 inch rachet strap and wrap it around the center of the center link and pull down on it (remove front skid plate and use crossmember as hook point for the strap) what you are after here is preventing the center link from rolling upward.its kind of hard to explain but it is rather simple to do, maybe someone else can explain it better.

A note on the torsion bars: if you plan on doing it alot lubricate the bolts with antisieze real good. And yes the weight will help the problem.

I think I understand what you are saying. Torsion bars knew what you were talking about just called them wrong thing. thanks

When you have it dropped down won't this give you less wheel well room to turn? I already have trouble with tires hitting front bumper. Can the front bumper be moved forward. I only need a coupe of inches more clearance. I am ok on the back side.

put the centerlink on and then dont worry about it!!! do the sleeves and center link and be done. its no fun having to do all of that before a pull or race.

Before racing i lower my t-bars all the way, even with the centerlink(my 60s thanked me for it), before pulling too if they do not allow front weights.

Yea you will rub so plan on bringing a jack with you to the pulls, the centerlink is kind of pricey so if you do not want to spend the doe the strap will work, if you do not mind the money and plan on pulling all the time then the centerlink is a good idea.

For pulling, even with a centerlink stabilizer I still lower the torsen bars if I'm not hanging weight on the front end. If I'm hanging weight I don't lower the torsen bars because the weight lowers the front end. The main objective is to keep the CV's level when hooked to the sled going down the track.

Todd Cox pulled a duramax until the end of last year and he was breaking cv's regularly. I wondered what was causing it. He had a dually and it rolled the fronts in bad. I see he is riding a sheep now.

Todd Cox pulled a duramax until the end of last year and he was breaking cv's regularly. I wondered what was causing it. He had a dually and it rolled the fronts in bad. I see he is riding a sheep now.

was it lifted?

He probably had the torsen bars turned up and had the CV's at too much of an angle while hooked to the sled. After 100+ hooks I'm still on my original CV's with 108K miles on them.

i have replaced three CVs on my truck, one while pulling, two while racing all three were with t bars up and stock centerlink, the centerlink made a huge difference on what i can do on the street without touching the t-bars but I still err on the side of caution due to CV angles.

Wasn't lifted and I thought he had weight hanging on front. I agree there was something odd going on. I know of a couple other gm trucks that pull here local and I haven't seen anybody else break.

58k same cv joints. several pulls, many back to backs(on pavement and off), and now jumping at the drag strip. no problems!

How do you order a set of super diesel's tie rod sleaves and centerlink and what do they cost? Who makes the traction bars you would recomend and what do they cost?

pm super diesel,

traction bars- http://www.socaldiesel.com/
lookat very bottom of page

Hey guys new to the forum and I thought I would throw my 2 cents in.:) Before I got my 05 I had a 99 Z71 that I pulled for 3 or 4 years I never had any major problems with it. After a 120,000 miles I only replaced 1 halfshaft and 1 set of rear driveshaft u-joints. My truck had the toe in realy bad too, but I never had a problem with anything breaking on the front. It pobably helped that I used stock size tires. Alot of the stock classes wouldn't allow front weights, so I would put them on the floor boards. Not bad getting 600+ pounds inside the cab. The best I got was a second at the local fairgrounds. I only got beat by a V10 dodge. I can't wait to get my new one down the track.

if you can get them tires to straighten out, the front shouldnt "slow" you down anymore and then theres no more fighting the steering wheel. oh yeah, not to mention that theres no more risk of breaking a tire rod end if you do what ever to keep em straight

I have a good picture of my old 99 with the toe in problem, but don't know how to post it.

http://img252.echo.cx/img252/8315/oldtruck4gz.jpg I hope that isn't to big

that picture makes me hurt all over