I just purchased a wrecked 01 Crew Cab Dmax long bed and am in the middle of a frame swap to short bed. I need to know the length of the rear section of the rear driveshaft. I tried to measure my father-in-law's '02 and found out about the one piece shafts. I also need to know if the dreaded shudder from other threads is only on lifted trucks or with worn parts. Thanks.

The shudder on mine started when new, when towing my 32' 5er. It is caused by improper "u" joint angles when the load dropped the rear bumper about 2-3". I cured mine by installing air bags to hold the rear up to unloaded height.

Thanks. Anybody else have any input?

Take a look here: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30007&highlight=shudder+driveshaft

Zipper,

I read that post right after I made my previous post. I also noticed in another thread that you still have the 2 piece shaft. Do you have the shudder? Could you please measure the rear shaft so I can keep my options open if I run out of cash? Thanks.

I'll be happy to measure my shaft for you. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif

Will a measurement of just the tubing portion of the shaft meet your needs or would you rather have some other reference?

I just got truck 10 days ago and haven't towed or hauled anything at all yet. After I saw the 'shudder' threads on the fourms I took a close look at my driveshaft and found a brand new mid-shaft bearing and carrier. No shudder so far, but I do have a low frequency vibration that occurs only at ~40 mph that I hope is a resonance of the tire tread.

I intend to tow my 32' travel trailer this weekend so I guess I'll find out then for sure if I have the shudder issue with my truck.

I should be able to post that dimension later this evening.

I am in the process of converting my 2001 Crewcab short box D/A from the 2 piece to the 1 piece driveshaft. If you need the 2 piece I probably could sell it cheap. I am sure its still in good condition.
Mark

Zipper,

I read that post right after I made my previous post. I also noticed in another thread that you still have the 2 piece shaft. Do you have the shudder? Could you please measure the rear shaft so I can keep my options open if I run out of cash? Thanks.

The rear section of my rear driveshaft measures 33" from center-to-center of the welds at the ends of the tube.

I am in the process of converting my 2001 Crewcab short box D/A from the 2 piece to the 1 piece driveshaft.

I'm considering doing the same thing if I find that I have the shudder problem when the truck is loaded or towing.

Let us know how much $$$$ and time the conversion turns out to be.

Zipper & boondokr ,
I am getting the shudder, but because my truck is out of warranty I am doing it myself.
Mark

I tried to have get a drive shaft built by a couple of shops in Salt Lake City, but they both said that the drive yokes for the aluminum shafts are not available for the U-joint size that GM uses. I had also found a used one piece shaft, but as my luck always goes, they sold it the day before payday.

The 2 piece driveshafts are balanced as a unit. If you replace just one piece, you should get it balanced. I believe you might have to do a little cutting if the new frame was a 2-pc driveshaft and you want to do a 1-pc.

I had 'The Shudder' very badly when towing my 5th wheel. I found the TSB, GM basically told me to screw off because I haven't had all of my service and maintenance done at Chevy (What a load of crap!). Anyways, after several months of research, I found some part numbers off of my friend's '03 CC/SB driveshaft. I found this awesome guy from Ebay that builds aluminum driveshafts. He asked for the Spicer # off of the shaft and he built me an exact OEM replica. I installed it and WOOHOO!!!!! No more shudder or vibration at any speed! Did it all for a couple hundred dollars shipped. Dealer wanted $700-800 and with the buddy hook-up, $500-600. His e-mail is Elks1945@aol.com . His Ebay ID is ujointmaster. Give this guy a shot, he was very helpful. Good Luck!

I had Illiana Truck Parts in Terre Haute, IN make me a new steel shaft with bigger spicer u joints this week. Cost was $350 and that included the labor of taking out the bent alluminum one and putting the new one in. They have a web site with telephone numbers. Brian is the builder. I realize this isn't very close to you but they build shafts for a lot of pullers in this area.

Parts Information
P/N
Description
Usage

15077431
Shaft Asm.- Prop
K25953 w/ LQ4, MT1, C6P (99-00 8600# GVW)

15077434
Shaft Asm.- Prop
K25953/35953 w/ M74 (Allison Trans)

15077435
Shaft Asm.- Prop
K25953 w/ LQ4, MT1 (HD Model 9200# GVW)

15077436
Shaft Asm.- Prop
K35953 w/ LQ4, MT1 (11,400# GVW)

15093466
Shaft Asm.- Prop
K25743 w/LQ4, MT1 (HD Model 9200# GVW)

15093467
Shaft Asm.- Prop
K25743 w/M74 (Allison Trans)