Here it is. All work was done by me. I need to carpet the box and figure out where to put the remote bass controls so it doesnt look so messy.

nice setup, ive only got 2 10's your system must pound. Your probably going to want to remove that plastic piece above your sub box, it rattles no matter how much dynamat you put on it. I made a new piece out of ply wood.

Looks good dude! It'll be real nice once you get carpet on it. I used cascade VB-5 to keep the back panel from rattling. I also ground the nubs off the anchor covers so they would fit right...


Ox

thanks guys, actually no problem with rattles as of yet. good idea on the anchor points, will have to do that.

JhnZ71,
Yeah it will pound especially when it hits the note the subs are made for. Listening to classic rock and country it shakes pretty much everything in the truck. does alright with rap but not as well as rap is made for 12's and bigger IMO. 2 10's ought to sound good to, i didnt think two would be enough for me so thats why i went with 4 8's. what amp you running on your 10's?

What are the dimensions of your box?

3.5" depth at top 6.5" at bottom 52" long and 13" high. dimensions give 1.4 cu ft of air space. the rockford subs need .35 each

Did you put dividers between each speaker or is it completely open?

Cajunn
Hopefully he did that long of box could flex a lot. Also with 2 amps powering the subs if one quits you can ruin the subs or so I have been told.

Bullydog
How much room do you have between your subs and your box especially at the bottom?

Im running a MTX Thunder 800, its 400 watts RMS per channel, It pounds the $hit out of my subs, they sound good, Infinitys are known to be pretty loud for the buck. It does shake the hell out of that metal panel when listening to country and rap. To stop it i just flip the back seats down. Also, i know its completely unnessary im running a Tsunami 2.0 Farad Capacitor. These amps will make headlights dim along to the music if i play it too loud for too long.

Cajunn,
I didnt have space to divide them. i was pushing volume as it was, adding dividers would have dropped the volume too low. No problems as of yet, ive watched the box while playing it hard, it doesnt move. I should have divided the pairs though now that i think about it.

Dozerboy,
At the top about 2 inches at the bottom none with the trim rings on.

JhnZ71 on all the stereos ive done, ive never seen a capacitor help. This is the only system ive done thats small enough not to pull the battery gauge down. Total watts on this one about 760 i had 3000 watts in my 95 and about 1500 in my 99.

Hey at least you have dual batteries so it shouldn't run it down as much sitting there running the amps.

i rarely ever play the stereo while the truck is off only 10-15 mins at most. dual batteries do help but with out the transfer switch they will both run down at the same time and trying to crank a diesel with low power aint easy.

I only have 1000 watts RMS in my Blazer mostly stock electrical and my lights barely dim at all.
Caps are just band-aids on a bigger problem.
For starters
Check your ground with a multi meter
Do the car audio big 3 (Google it)
Last, upgrade your alt

Bigger Alternator To provide the power. Batteries and Caps only serve as 'power reserves'

Also make sure your Wiring is sized correctly for the amp. Bigger pipe is always better.

My feed lines are 0/0 from the batteries and 4Gauge directly into the Amps.
It makes a huge difference in amplifier heat output and SQ running proper wire.

:agreed:Bigger Alternator To provide the power. Batteries and Caps only serve as 'power reserves'

Also make sure your Wiring is sized correctly for the amp. Bigger pipe is always better.

My feed lines are 0/0 from the batteries and 4Gauge directly into the Amps.
It makes a huge difference in amplifier heat output and SQ running proper wire.

BullydogPowered,
I dont think my cap actally does anything in this application seeing as im only running about 1800 total RMS watts. My friend has a 01' Tahoe with 3 18' Kicker L7's in it. In his case they really work, he has two optima red tops, and two 5.0 farad caps. He said he could burn batterys easyly with them, caps only really help if you listen to music that works the subs...when amps constantly drawing that much power it can give batterys a real workout, also it can burn amps.

What you said about amps is true, if you have two amps connected the the same sub, on a DVC subwoofer it will fry the woofer if one of the amps, if you have two amps connected to a SVC subwoofer it wont fry the woofer but it wont make much sound.

What are amp are you using for your subs??

In our applications with dual alternators and batterys there totally unnessary though...

Im using 1 Rockford 3001 on each pair of subs. 2 amps - 4 subs. i did it that way so if i lost an amp id still have bass.