IP, LP, OPS, Thanks! [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: IP, LP, OPS, Thanks!


pmorrissette
07-13-2009, 09:16 PM
Hello to All the Veterans of the Forum!

I just wanted to express my heartfelt "thanks" for all of the great info a newbie to 6.5's can find here!

Firstoff, in case any newbies read this and wonder what the abbreviations are:

IP = Injection Pump ~ on top of the engine, near the front.
LP = Lift Pump ~ under the truck, inside left frame rail.
OPS = Oil Pressure Sensor ~ rear of the engine, left side, near fuel filter.

When I got my truck a few weeks ago, I knew it would have a few issues, but it was a rude surprise when I tried to start it about 30 minutes after shutting it down...all it would do was turn over, but not fire. :confused:

After reading up a bit on this forum, I saw the "pour water on the IP trick", and lo & behold, it fired right up! :) I must say my wife was wondering WTF I was doing "watering" my truck with her flower can! :D

Anyways, a lot of reading later, with diagnostic checklist in hand, off I went to learn more about my truck. I found out my LP wasn't working, My OPS was giving a good reading to the dash, but not giving any current to the LP, and that I might need an IP due to the strain the previous owner put on it by running without a functioning LP...dumbass... Censored

So I bought a new Delphi LP off Ebay for $75 and installed it today...the dead one was so old, the connectors were all seized up, and I ended up twisting, then snapping off the steel tubing.... :mad:

Off I went to Canada's greatest chain of stores...Canadian Tire...where I found everything I needed in the "HELP!" section of self-serve auto parts! New steel line of the correct diameter with the correct fitting and o-ring $5.99, 2 feet of fuel hose $4.99 and a packet of fuel injection clamps $2.99! :grd:

Fixed the fuel lines, cranked it over, and she wouldn't start (wasn't a surprise, I was already expecting the OPS issue). I disconnected the OPS harness connector, jumped the two outer most pins with a bit of wire...and tadaa! the LP was purring merrily away! (and no leaks at my redneck line fix either!) :thumb:

Turned the key..and varroummm! Started soooo much easier! not even a quarter turn! Tomorrow I am going to replace the OPS with a new one from GM, will secure all the hoses underneath because I just put a couple of zip-ties in case my fix had a leak; then will go for a nice long road test to get her all warmed up...and will then try the hot start after letting it sit for a half hour...if she won't start, I'll remove the pump and have it rebuilt by a local pump guy, or order a reman unit of a reputable Ebayer like Pensacola diesel...unless I find another good deal elsewhere...maybeeee?

So...thanks for reading, hopefully my experience might be a assistance to a future newbie...and once again, thanks to the Vets of the board for all thier wisdom and generosity for posting it here...it is MUCH appreciated!

Ciao from Montreal!

Bison
07-14-2009, 12:26 AM
Amen

rob17san
07-14-2009, 01:13 AM
glad you figured it all out, and WELCOME

pmorrissette
07-14-2009, 03:55 PM
Wellll; Now I know I need a new IP :(

I installed the new OPS this morning, what a PITA it was to get at ! Dropped my socket behind the head...Grrr...

Got it done, truck started fine...LP purring merrily away...drove the truck for 20 minutes to get it warmed up...and parked it.

Went out 30 minutes later...NO START...sigh...

I know my batteries are a little weak, maybe that was causing an issue with the OPS & LP, so broke out my trusty little piece of wire, unplugged the OPS and jumped the connector...LP started purring rightoway...got in the truck and cranked...still no start...

I'm gonna start shopping for an IP this afternoon...

On the bright side, the OPS P/N at Napa was #OP6677 and they wanted $63.49 for it. I called the dealer to compare, the P/N was #12555492 (as listed elsewhere on the forum) and they were asking $55.45 :)

Had to buy a OPS socket, had it on the shelf in the 'Help' section at Canadian Tire, 1-1/16 x 2-5/8, cost of $11.99 (Nice quality too)

Will update once the IP is changed out!

Ciao!

tigert
07-14-2009, 11:41 PM
Well I hope you are adding a additive to your tank when you fill up. Stanadyne or power service or 2 cycle oil or 30 weight motor oil. This may give you time to get a rebuild at a reasonable price. I milked mine for a year this way. What is your smoke on startup cold? I carried a 2 gallon garden sprayer in the truck to handle the hot starts, got lots of attention at the malls.

sirdiesel
07-22-2009, 12:41 AM
Congrats. I am new to the forum and it saved me $90 and the pain of changing a LP. I followed the checks when trouble shooting the LP and OPS and after a OPS swap the LP worked and the truck runs great now. A noticible better throttle response and even starts easier. Thanks to all who provided the info.

Phil St-Onge
07-22-2009, 12:57 AM
thanks Diesel place!!!

jjw565
07-22-2009, 12:43 PM
I know my batteries are a little weak,

I thought I had a bad IP too because the water on the pump thing always worked to get it going after it heat soaked for a while. Turned out my starter was just weak and was not spinning it fast enough. A new starter and it would fire right up.

You have to crank faster to get it started when its hot than when its cold because the fuel is thinner at hot temps and the pump needs to spin faster to get it moving. This is why I didn't think I had a battery/starter problem because it would start fine cold (or watered :))

Might want to try some new batteries before you throw an IP at it. I can't remember but I think a cranking speed of around 600 rpm is needed for a hot start (it says somewhere in one of the stickies at the top of the board)

Its recommended to do both batteries at the same time because a weak one will just pull down the better one.

pmorrissette
10-07-2009, 06:51 PM
Hi Again All;

JJW565's post got me thinking a while back...I removed and checked the batteries, right side was weak, left side was good, so I got a good (also tested) used one, went through all the connections...they were pretty clean but I re-cleaned them all anyways...tried again...same cranking speed and no start hot...so I decided to check the amp draw of my starter cold & hot...HOLY COW!

The spec is around 425 amps (if I remember correctly), cold mine was pulling 700+...didn't bother checking hot since I now knew I had a starter issue....purchased a local remnufactured starter for $120...installed it today... WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Spins WAYYYY faster and fires IMMEDIATELY ! Tried it again hot, and A-OK !

Thanks a HUGE BUNCH for the tip, saved me buying an IP for nothing.

:beerchug::beerchug::beerchug: