i have a 02 2500hd 6.6/ i have replaced front hubs,front rotors, front calipers, front pades, rear pads, hydro booster, master cylinder, When i push the brake pedal it feels spungee, if i push a little hard the pedal will go almost to floor, the truck does stop but not well, i have bleed the brakes with a helper repetivly, i just got a new mityvac 6835 and i cant seem to get that thing to get all the air out either!! I guess i wasted $150.00 on that thing, oh yea i have run about 2 gallons of clean dot 3 threw the system, any help would be great thank you:eek:

The air isn't in the lines, but rather in the ABS dump valve region of the ABS module. You need a Tech II bleed to command the valves open to allow removal of the air. Read this thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297023&highlight=bleed

Get it done now, as you think the brakes are scary now, wait until you NEED ABS and the valves open in a panic stop situation. You will will have ZERO brake pedal.


THE ABS CANNOT BE BLED PROPERLY AFTER FLUID LOSS CORRECTLY WITHOUT THE USE OF A SCAN TOOL TO HOLD THE ABS VALVES OPEN. My dealer charges 1 hour shop rate to do this. The proof is simple. Test the ABS on an abandoned road at approx 8mph. The pedal should not drop. It'll ABS hum, but should not drop.

There is a redneck way to bleed them, but it's time consuming. Bleed all four, activate the abs on a gravel road, repeat the bleed, activate the ABS on a gravel road, bleed and repeat until the pedal no longer drops.

Be prepared to pump your pedal the first time you try this and make sure there is nothing to collide with in front of you, as the pedal will drop significantly and brake force will nearly disappear.

The air isn't in the lines, but rather in the ABS dump valve region of the ABS module. You need a Tech II bleed to command the valves open to allow removal of the air. Read this thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297023&highlight=bleed

Get it done now, as you think the brakes are scary now, wait until you NEED ABS and the valves open in a panic stop situation. You will will have ZERO brake pedal.
X2, i agree and a tech-2 is about the only answer. Your tool is not a waste of money as you will use it again someday. I have one that i bought about 6yrs ago and only used a couple times. Will i part with it, NO as i know i will need it again. Never sell tools!!!

newbie here....just curious, but since when did chevy's need a tool to tell the valves to bleed? What year can I purchase (and before) where that's not required, and I can do it the old fashioned way? (I hope I'm not taking this off topic - but I can't start a post...I don't think).

What year can I purchase (and before) where that's not required
Earlier than the one you're DD'ing.

Theres also the ghetto method of bleeding the ABS out. Find you a dirt or gravel road and lock the brakes up a few times to engage the ABS and then re-bleed them. If you don't have access to a tech 2 or equivelant then this method will work, but is very time consuming.

Theres also the ghetto method of bleeding the ABS out. Find you a dirt or gravel road and lock the brakes up a few times to engage the ABS and then re-bleed them. If you don't have access to a tech 2 or equivelant then this method will work, but is very time consuming.

well, i live in Indiana - so that wouldn't be too difficult

Theres also the ghetto method of bleeding the ABS out.
I prefer "REDNECK"


THE ABS CANNOT BE BLED PROPERLY AFTER FLUID LOSS CORRECTLY WITHOUT THE USE OF A SCAN TOOL TO HOLD THE ABS VALVES OPEN. My dealer charges 1 hour shop rate to do this. The proof is simple. Test the ABS on an abandoned road at approx 8mph. The pedal should not drop. It'll ABS hum, but should not drop.

There is a redneck way to bleed them, but it's time consuming. Bleed all four, activate the abs on a gravel road, repeat the bleed, activate the ABS on a gravel road, bleed and repeat until the pedal no longer drops.

Be prepared to pump your pedal the first time you try this and make sure there is nothing to collide with in front of you, as the pedal will drop significantly and brake force will nearly disappear.


Right out of POST #2 above:rolleyes:.

You know you're a redneck, when you bleed your brakes by driving down a gravel road?

You know you're a redneck, when you bleed your brakes by driving down a gravel road?

I prefer hick.

[quote=treegump;3501394]well, i live in Indiana

Where bouts. I'm from Indiana. Have famly by Nashville. Still have a place out by Spencer.

[quote=treegump;3501394]well, i live in Indiana

Where bouts. I'm from Indiana. Have famly by Nashville. Still have a place out by Spencer.

Parents live just south of Monrovia (I actually grew up just North of Gosport). I currently live in Northwest Indiana.

Go thru Gosport all the time goin to Martinsville. Move back south when you can, best part of state is the south part.

Go thru Gosport all the time goin to Martinsville. Move back south when you can, best part of state is the south part.

I would if I could, but I can't. I work in frankfort, IL - so about a 45 min commute from where I live now. Not to mention - I'm starting to enjoy the people around these parts. (though I could definitely go w/o all the rules - emissions, no burning, etc)