So the alternators dead. The light has been on and off for a few days and I finally had it tested and it's below spec.

I usually go with a factory part but GM wants $275 w/out pully and I can get a new one from NAPA for $114.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NNE&PartNumber=1N4523D&Description=Alternator+-+New

I usually have pretty good luck with NAPA products and this does have a lifetime warrenty.

Has anyone used one of these before?

How dead are we talking? If the windings aren't burnt out have it rebuilt or rebuild it yourself. Rebuilding an alt is usually just brushes and a regulator if the windings are still good(not burnt out from too much current draw). same goes for a starter. If the windings are good just a new set of brushes and a new solenoid and you'll be all set.

I went with an alt from auto-advance-pep-zone. One of those "Remanufactured in Malaysia/Mexico/etc" alternators. Total Junk. lasted less than a year and the regulator started to go. Thankfully i've got lifetime replacement so i'll just keep putting crappy alt's in for free now.

I've never bought a alt for my truck from napa but it's probably made in china like everything else now a days.

Google "CS144 alternator", it should point to a site that looks like sell stout alternator for a little more than Napa but better amp. I am not sure on how to fit them in the current bracket since the current alternator is a little smaller but you can always talk to them and see how they usually do it.

If you are in a hurry, then you probably don't have no choice to get the Napa. Ask for the warranty, if it is lifetime, you can always exchange it. The good news is Alternator is not that difficult to change like starter.

[quote=iamdave0887;3373459] same goes for a starter. If the windings are good just a new set of brushes and a new solenoid and you'll be all set.[quote]

THis is what i went through with my starter. I was going to rebuild it with new brushes and a solenoid. But i started pricing stuff out, and the damn solenoid was more than buying a whole reman starter!!! WTF is with that?? Why is just the solenoid more than the starter?? The solenoid everywhere i called was about 20 bucks more than the reman starter? I got lucky tho, my solenoid isnt bad. Its something with the fork mechanism in my starter that needs to be replaced...

[quote=iamdave0887;3373459] same goes for a starter. If the windings are good just a new set of brushes and a new solenoid and you'll be all set.[quote]

THis is what i went through with my starter. I was going to rebuild it with new brushes and a solenoid. But i started pricing stuff out, and the damn solenoid was more than buying a whole reman starter!!! WTF is with that?? Why is just the solenoid more than the starter?? The solenoid everywhere i called was about 20 bucks more than the reman starter? I got lucky tho, my solenoid isnt bad. Its something with the fork mechanism in my starter that needs to be replaced...

wow. crazy price on the solenoid. I've never seen one that high priced. Sounds like price gouging to me. That way people buy the entire starter instead of repairing the one they have.

The last starter i looked at for the 6.5TD was light as a feather. It was like there was nothing to it. I used to wonder why remans/"new" starters never lasted. I think that one had an aluminum housing. My Dad's Camaro has the original never rebuilt starter(weighs a ton for a 350SB starter) in it from 1971 and while it spins kinda slow(may need brushes, or a new battery) it still kicks over the 10.6:1 compression engine.

The good news is Alternator is not that difficult to change like starter.

I'll race ya, LOL I am getting good at the starter thing since I have taken it out probably 10 times in the last year.

I'll race ya, LOL I am getting good at the starter thing since I have taken it out probably 10 times in the last year.

X2 Im on my 5th starter, im pretty good at the one had over the shoulder holding it up while inserting the bolts into the block.

I've learned through experiance that the NAPA stuff is usually better than the AutoZone / Schucks junk. They will take the pully off and attach to the new one for free right there in the store for me as well which is pretty handy.

I'm leaning towards this but don't have the time to drop take it out, down to NAPA, wait, take it home and reinstall until Saturday. Looks like I'll be driving the LX470 for a few days.

I called around on a price to just have it done by a shop and I got $350-$420. Come on, I'm all for earning a living, but if you have all the parts it is a half hour to an hour job max. $120 for the alt, $80 for labor = $200 and not $400.

I did have a question though, I know I need to disco the battery but which one do I disco? Or both? This is my first diesel and my knowlage of diesel electric is non-existant.

I bought a NAPA alternator this Spring. I went for the 150 amp model. It cost me nearly $190, but it is certainly better than the wimpy 105 amp model that I have replaced four times already. If you buy the big amp alternator, you are required to buy the wiring kit. The kit is like $80, but includes huge cables to connect the alternator to the battery and a fuse (most likely a 150 amp fuse). It does help. I kept the original wiring from the alternator to the right side battery and then added their big cable going to the left side battery. No problems so far.

The 150 amp alternator is the same size case as the original. Hard to believe...it puts out that much if it's so small. No modifications, other than the wiring kit, are needed.

When working on the 12v system, I always disconnect BOTH negative cables from the batteries.

Jake

Thanks for the info on the upgrade. I had to do so on the LX470 (Land Cruiser) when modding for overland. However, my plans on this truck are not long term, no more than a year or two so the conversion would not make sense at this time. However, the more I drive it, the more I like it so who knows.

I'll make certain to disconnect the terminals on both batteries.

All is good as long as I make it the four miles home. Thank goodness for a mechanical 93!

i Bought a NAPA alt for my 96 Yukon cause of the warranty .i have a spare alt 105 amp and i'am going to take it into a shop in town to have them bump it up to a 150amp or if they can 200 amp. i had them do one for our fire truck and one on my old 77 chev blazer with 12 KC roof lights on it. when they say rebuild they take the alt all apart and rebuilt it from the start and when they say remanufactured they just replace the part that is faulty.

I bought one alternator from napa. A year later a bearing started to go out. Napa said the alternator was not theirs. Had to do a lot of searching for the receipt and they still had to send it back to NAPA head quarters to confirm it was their's. So keep all your info and copy the receipt. Those dang auto parts print their receipts out with fading ink. A year later and you can't read it. Keep the box to. I had to buy another till the one was O.K.'d

I bought one alternator from napa. A year later a bearing started to go out. Napa said the alternator was not theirs. Had to do a lot of searching for the receipt and they still had to send it back to NAPA head quarters to confirm it was their's. So keep all your info and copy the receipt. Those dang auto parts print their receipts out with fading ink. A year later and you can't read it. Keep the box to. I had to buy another till the one was O.K.'d
x2 on that, EXACTLY the same for me. Also make sure it has the correct (2" diamater where the belt runs) pulley and correct clocking. Got bit on both of these issues before.

yes you are rite they print their receipts out with a heat transfer system so if you keep them in the glove box or any were they can get hot they fade really fast . here in Canada Canadian Tire is the worst for that so here is what i do and have never had a problem with them. i photocopy all of their receipts that has any warranty at all. i brought back a starter with the receipt and the readable photocopy and they warrantied it.my local NAPA prints they out with a ink jet printer so they last for a long time.

The best is OReilly, they use the old dot matrix on an actual printed logo receipt.

Made it home OK. :D About a mile from home I started geting dancing gauges and it seemed like everyone was making me slow down and stop.:mad:

I'll pull it tonight and take it to NAPA in the morning for a decisive test. The only testing so far has been on the truck. If it fails I'll pick up a new one and they will swap the pully for me for free and I'll be on my way.

So...got it on OK. Ended up just taking the belt off instead of trying to work with it on.

Went with a New NAPA alternator, when I took it down it tested bad so they swapped the pully over for me and just for fun I told them to test the new one. FAIL:eek:. They had to have the warehouse send out another one out. It tested fine but now I'm a but nervous.

Also, the warrent is lifetime on gas trucks, but only two years on diesel trucks. LOL, just like the Chrysler Lifetime Warrenty does not apply towards the one type of truck that buyers actually keep sometimes for a lifetime.

Anyway, back on and rockin. How I missed that rattle.:)

I bought the 150amp alternator from NAPA and built my own 'heavy duty' wiring kit with a couple of batt cables and a fuse holder from NAPA... from the pictures it's actually better than the one they offer.

Also, the warrent is lifetime on gas trucks, but only two years on diesel trucks. LOL, just like the Chrysler Lifetime Warrenty does not apply towards the one type of truck that buyers actually keep sometimes for a lifetime.


that's crazy that the warranty is different just because of the engine in your truck. Unless the NAPA alt's for the diesels are built to be stronger and heavier duty and just don't fail that often.

I know my truck's eaten 2 alternators since i bought it. First one i paid for, second one was under warranty because it's cheap chinese junk and i fried the regulator. i'im looking into a dual alt setup as when i had the VAT-40 amp tester on the truck i was pulled ~95-98 amps with every possible thing on full. the stock alts are only 105 amps unless one has the Higher output 124 amp alternator.

I bought the 150amp alternator from NAPA and built my own 'heavy duty' wiring kit with a couple of batt cables and a fuse holder from NAPA... from the pictures it's actually better than the one they offer.


can you give me the rundown on the home made wireing setup I want to do one for my suburban but dont know what to do