I was just wondering for you guys that clamp your rear springs for better traction for drag racing and pulling, do you just buy an aftermarket or factory overload spring to clamp to the rest of the spring pack???

I was looking to shave some time off my 60', and I think this will help, thanks

I bought a u-bolt kit for ten bucks at the local auto parts store. Clamped the spring pack in front of the axle where the heavy overload spring almost ends. Tightened until the overload was pulled up tight into the rest of the springs. I have a photo, but I'm not to savy on how to load it. I'm not running high power, but didn't have any hop or traction problems with the set-up.

Rob

do you just buy an aftermarket or factory overload spring to clamp to the rest of the spring pack???

Yes, for pulling this works, got mine at a junkyard.
For racing just clamp your spring pack together minus the extra O.L., (main spring to OEM O.L. spring) both sides of the axle at the ends

I clamp the front half of the spring..............

The whole spring pack..........

Basically it is two pieces of 1/2" thick steel plate 2" wide by 6" long with two 1/2" holes drilled into it 3~1/2" center to center.

Held together by two grade 8 bolts....

Hope these help:

got any pics of them installed?

I will put up a pic on WED......when I get the truck ready for the track for Thursday......

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cool thanks

Clamping looked like it really worked well at the race track, the trucks that had these clamps really hooked good....:)

I wonder if this is an indication that we need stiffer rear springs?

Seems to me clamping is the best of both worlds. Nice driveability without clamps, and a good, cheap, fast method for traction and axle wrap control when added.

Rob

Seems to me clamping is the best of both worlds. Nice driveability without clamps, and a good, cheap, fast method for traction and axle wrap control when added.

Rob
:eek: Nice drivability. You must not get off smooth concrete !

Driving My 02 2500HD EC SB over anything other than a smooth City Blvd. can be called anything but "Nice Drivability". Of course I don't really care, cause of the power. ;)

Thanks for all the input on this.

I wanna shoot for some 11 second runs the next couple of races I attend. I'm hoping to run a low 11 second run by the end of the year, still have lots of testing to do before that happens.

Anybody here what Clints truck ran on the track this weekend???

ibdmax'in move to a sea level location & 11's will happen

ibdmax'in move to a sea level location & 11's will happen

The trick is to try and create sea level @ 6000ft!!!! ;)

I will most likely make some low elevation runs this year, I want to be the first duramax at 6000ft to get into the 11's. Everything else has already been taken.

Well I think SD may have beat you to the 11's):h

I will put up a pic on WED......when I get the truck ready for the track for Thursday......

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Pictures are always helpful :help2:

Well I think SD may have beat you to the 11's):h

I think SD has us beat with a lot of stuff, but at bandimere no one has run a 11 sec 1/4 mile in a d-max, Super Diesel ran his 11 sec 1/4 mile somewhere else. I'm going after the Bandimere records!!! ;)

The trick is to try and create sea level @ 6000ft!!!! ;)

I will most likely make some low elevation runs this year, I want to be the first duramax at 6000ft to get into the 11's. Everything else has already been taken.

I don't think Nitrous cares what altitude your at. Other than the before /after increases with it are probably greater at elevation as their is more fuel left over after the combustion cycle due to the thinner air. Allowing you to use more Nitrous at elevation than would be tolerated in the lowlands. :D

I don't think Nitrous cares what altitude your at. Other than the before /after increases with it are probably greater at elevation as their is more fuel left over after the combustion cycle due to the thinner air. Allowing you to use more Nitrous at elevation than would be tolerated in the lowlands. :D

:exactly:

i guess the nitrous equals out the sea level to high altitude diffference.
im glad you mountain boys get some advantage.

to keep with this thread, does clamping the springs eliminate the need for traction bars in dragracing. or do they compliment each other?

Pictures are always helpful :help2:

Here they are..............excuse the rust and dirt..........I actually drive my truck in the winter..........:(

T:cool: NY
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My understanding is that clamping stops axle wrap like traction bars do, which stops axle hop. After clamping my springs and launching at the track, I had no hop what so ever. I wasn't running near the power a lot of these guys are, but worked for me.

Rob

Here they are..............excuse the rust and dirt..........I actually drive my truck in the winter..........:(

T:cool: NY


ya i hear that. i bet mackin's truck doesnt look like that.



thanks for the pics are the bolts up against the leafs?

They have maybe 1/8-1/4 inch on either side.......the bottom springs on mine are slightly shifted..........side to side......):h


The 3~1/2 inch center to center for the bolts worked out good.

gotcha mine have alittle shift to them too. think im going to make up some for next weekend

DO you clamp them for track only? or can you leave them clamped on the street?

Track only..............it drives ok on the street with them clamped

A two wheel drive truck would probably benefit the most from this type of

clamp setup.:ro)

Then also add some of those Caltrax traction bars........

anyone have a photo?

gotcha mine have alittle shift to them too. think im going to make up some for next weekend

I just bought the material to duplicate these clamps. Problem is the bar material came in a longer length than you need, 4ft I think. Bar was was $22. No. 8 grade bolts washers and nuts ain't cheap. "Hafta" do it right. With tax all was around $45. :eek:
I already have Caltronic Traction bars, so this "clamping thing" may be an over kill.
No wheel hop for me (in the rear anyway).

I already have Caltronic Traction bars, so this "clamping thing" may be an over kill.
No wheel hop for me (in the rear anyway).

What, overkill? Is there such a thing? I think you're just being extra prepared.;)

Something I want to play with. Isnt going to do anything for axel wrap(Dont get any with the bars) but I wonder if it would stiffen the spring pack and be better or worse??? Something I want to play with. I would like to watch my bud launch so I can watch and see if the ass end squats much now ect. Ranchos helped a TON in the weight transfer dept.

Edit: thats one reason I went traction bars. I like to play on the street and they are always there. No hop, even if I light up the tires in 4x4 instead of the nasty bunny hop crap I get I just spin all 4. My Ujoints, ect have to be really liking that. for track only clamps may work just fine and they do weigh less than bars.....I duno witch is better though???

Something I want to play with. Isnt going to do anything for axel wrap(Dont get any with the bars) but I wonder if it would stiffen the spring pack and be better or worse??? Something I want to play with. I would like to watch my bud launch so I can watch and see if the ass end squats much now ect. Ranchos helped a TON in the weight transfer dept.

Edit: thats one reason I went traction bars. I like to play on the street and they are always there. No hop, even if I light up the tires in 4x4 instead of the nasty bunny hop crap I get I just spin all 4. My Ujoints, ect have to be really liking that. for track only clamps may work just fine and they do weigh less than bars.....I duno witch is better though???

I think that clamping the springs would yield a stiffer suspension on the track, the goal is to have the least amount of wheel hop and axle wrap. Well I would think that if someone had cal-trac bars, clamped springs and rancho rs9000 shocks on, the truck should launch like a bat outta he!! :grd:

Would air bags have any impact on launches ...for better or worse? Only curious as I have the AirLift bags and the Caltracs bars ...was wondering if the bags help at all ...assuming they have air in them :)

I do not run my traction bars at the strip just clamps, my rear shocks as of yesterday are monroe reflexs, fronts are stock, I had no difference in 60 times then with the stock shocks, I think clamping the spring pack helps keep the front down by not allowing as much weight transfer to the rear and since you are already compressing the suspension down with the clamps it really takes most of the shock factor out of the equation on the rears, and they also control axle rap, my truck launches pretty good I think. I do not think clamps would be a good idea on a 2x4 since you would want weight transfer on them. Don't know though just my theories.

There are less pieces put together or lose when using 4 U-bolts and 4 pieces of bar stock for clamping the springs. But 8 pieces of bar stock and bolts instead of U-bolts will also work.

There are less pieces put together or lose when using 4 U-bolts and 4 pieces of bar stock for clamping the springs. But 8 pieces of bar stock and bolts instead of U-bolts will also work.

Just get some metal from a scrap yard. I don't think they would charge you much for some rusty bar steel in the back. If you have a problem w/ losing hardware just put a tach weld on two of the bolts (would look just like a U-bolt).
This shouldn't be a expensive trick. If I was going to spend the money I would just get the traction bars. If I wanted cheap traction I would scrounge some steel, nuts, and bolts and make set of clamps.
If it is just for the track it doesn't need to be pretty. Just effective.

This is what I ended up going with ...work like a champ.

:bling: .

There are less pieces put together or lose when using 4 U-bolts and 4 pieces of bar stock for clamping the springs. But 8 pieces of bar stock and bolts instead of U-bolts will also work.


If you tap one of the plates, instead of using nuts, it works out to be the same # of parts. Leaving the springs clamped for street use sucks A$$. I thought I was going to puke from all the bouncing. Much better launch at the track, with the springs clamped.

So you think Clamping wouldn't help on a 2wd? Me and Rat have been having a conversation about my 2wd dooley hooking up trying to run 13's....

I thought maybe 500lbs in the bed, clamped srpings, traction bars, and maybe drop the rear a little w/ shakles?

One time i saw a duramax pulling truck and instead of spring clamps he had holes drilled through both ends of his bottom overload springs, with a bolt going through the spring touching the other set of springs. Just wondering if you could use the same set up on a truck to prevent squatting when pulling heavy loads.

Definitley not! Doing that creates stress points and extremley uneven loading on the springs. IMO doing that is dangerous.

:exactly:

So you think Clamping wouldn't help on a 2wd? Me and Rat have been having a conversation about my 2wd dooley hooking up trying to run 13's....

I thought maybe 500lbs in the bed, clamped srpings, traction bars, and maybe drop the rear a little w/ shakles?

Wouldn't a 2wd benefit from weight transfer? Not having the clamps on would seem to help this transfer. I guess if axle hop is the problem than clamps would help.

Just thinking with my keyboard,

Rob

well a guy before me said it probably wouldn't..but thats what i was stinkin...

how tight do you tighten them??

how tight do you tighten them??

Crank them down good and tight. I use a air impact wrench.

thanks. Got em put on and the ride is bouncy as heck, but it seems even on the street from a part throttle punch that it takes off much nicer/smoother. Will take some getting used to if I keep them on all the time.

I wouldn't keep them on all the time. They make the truck ride like a lumber wagon. If your worried about spring wrap, put on a set of cal-tracks.

clamping a 2wd truck WILL help with traction on any gas truck and last i checked suspenson on a truck is suspension on a truck;)

I WILL be clamping my dmax next time i go:ro)

Im a noob in general, but a fresh out of the package noob to racing 6000lb trucks. Would clamping both ends of the springs do any more than just clamping the front? I drive a 2wd so I'm going to need all of the traction help I can get!

Every time i've clamped my springs, i've clamped both front and rear of the axle. Never clamped just the front, so I can't give you a good explaination on the differance.

Thanks, guess I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

I've only clamped the front and it made all the differnce in the world. I had some BAD wheelhop before and it cured that and helped in the traction department too. I would try just the front and see what happens. Good luck.

Jeffrey