Hi Guys,

84 Chev 1500 w/6.2 diesel (C code)

The truck will start and idle for about 1 second and then die.

If I hold the pedal to the floor while starting it, it will run and stay running as long as I hold the pedal at WOT. If I let off the pedal just a touch, the engine will die.

Getting 12 volts to the pink wire on the IP....battery connections are clean and tight, same with grounds....

I replaced the mechanical lift pump with an electric pump. Lots of fuel out of the filter bleed.

What's the problem guys? New IP time? I just got this truck to use as a farm beater....don't want to sink big $$$ into it....

Thanks

See, "IP issue..maybe" thread... remove the return connector on top of the IP..and try to start it..let us know..

is the WIF light on? if a big gob of "stuff" went through into your filter if your tank sock is broke maybe the engine is starved for fuel

Possible flex ring failure if the pump was never upgraded to the EID unit.The flex ring breaks down clogging the fuel return fitting which causes the engine to stall.Very common to see with early 80's injection pumps.

New filter.

I have removed the return line and tried to start it - same results - will run for one second or less and then die. The only way it stays running is to hold the IP at WOT - then it will stay running at WOT until I let off ever so slightly, then it will die immediately.

I will see if I can pull some info off of the IP tag later today.

There is plenty of fuel getting to the IP inlet....good electric pump pushing lots of fuel...

Thanks for the help.....looks like I am leaning towards an IP replacement....

EDIT - if I take out the actual return line connector, the truck should run if it is clogged?

Idle it up. then try

Yes Chris, remove [unscrew]the entire connector..if its clogged, the truck should atleast idle..when removed..

I've seen lots of those return fittings plugged completely with remains of a flex ring.Housing pressure inside the injection pump will rise which is why the engine will stall.

New filter.

I have removed the return line and tried to start it - same results - will run for one second or less and then die. The only way it stays running is to hold the IP at WOT - then it will stay running at WOT until I let off ever so slightly, then it will die immediately.

I will see if I can pull some info off of the IP tag later today.

There is plenty of fuel getting to the IP inlet....good electric pump pushing lots of fuel...

Thanks for the help.....looks like I am leaning towards an IP replacement....

If you do need a flex ring,it can be repaired rather easily.A new EID is $40 and the o-ring/seal kit price will vary but very cheap to buy.Definately alot better than spending a few hundred on so called rebuilt pumps.

and when the presure rises wont it retard the timing significantly also?

I took off the return line check valve fitting and the truck ran like a top. Put the fitting back in and the truck won't run.

I took it back off and replaced it with a 'straight' through fitting and the truck runs like a champ....

What would cause that?

does it drive and rev and stuff? if it does then hmmm

I took off the return line check valve fitting and the truck ran like a top. Put the fitting back in and the truck won't run.

I took it back off and replaced it with a 'straight' through fitting and the truck runs like a champ....

What would cause that?


Was your return fitting plugged with debris?The reason why it runs fine now is because no return restriction exists and housing pressure is not elevated to the point where it will cause the engine to stall.Ensure your return fitting is clean and free of debris.If you were to take off your governor cover you could check the cage to see if excessive play exists.If so,I would strongly suggest that the pump be repaired before going any further.The governor cage rivets will work against each other sending metal debris throughout the pump and it will destroy it in no time.

THis is what was happening to me when running veg oil. If you clean out the fitting you should be able to see through it.....not a clear picture but at least be able to see light.

I fixed my dirty fuel problem, cleaned the connector, and its been running for over a year now. I cleaned both my side tank and my 105g tank and then lined them to prevent rust and veg oil skinning (chicken skin) that will cause problems.

I had so much crap in the fuel it was making it past the filters. It was little tiny black spots that you could see with the naked eye causing my problem.

At first i was running the straight through fitting, but once i got the fuel problem figured out i put the standard check valve back in.....no problems since.

Good luck!!!

Truck runs and drives excellent now....no issues...

I am sure the IP will need to be replaced in the near future.

I can see light through the fitting...but there is a something inside it....must be a ball or something...hence the 'check valve'...

Gonna run the straight fitting until I get an IP...thanks for the help!