Well, have the engine down to a block (dont plan on taking it any further apart) My coolant passages are really crusty, since the engine has dried out and sat in a damp place for 2 years. DOes anyone know any tricks on fluching it with something to clean it out? I look down the water jacket around the cylinder jugs and it is real rusty in there. Can you run the truck with some type of cleaner in it? Im really concerned about this. I knew it was too good to be true. Should i just flush it a bunch of times?? IM thinking ill flush it with my old radiator, and then buy a new radiator too....

Not sure on a cleaner but i do know of a place you can get a beautiful all aluminum Tig welded radiator for a really good price and it's cheaper than a regular rad iirc. My buddy put on in his S10 plow truck and it runs cooler w/ the plow on it. I'm still doing some digging about the radiators this place has. Their prices are too good to be true.

Since you plow w/ yours maybe it'll help?

link availible on the radiator?? DOes anyone make a special coolant system flush that is a little more abrasive than just coolant? IM thinking that i am goin to assemble the heads back on the engine, oil pan, timing cover and so on, plug the water pump holes, then fill the block and heads with a garden hose and some type of cleaner, and just keep runnin flushes through it... SOund like a good idea?

link availible on the radiator?? DOes anyone make a special coolant system flush that is a little more abrasive than just coolant? IM thinking that i am goin to assemble the heads back on the engine, oil pan, timing cover and so on, plug the water pump holes, then fill the block and heads with a garden hose and some type of cleaner, and just keep runnin flushes through it... SOund like a good idea?that might work. there's some stuff called rust cure that has an acid in it that might get a lot of it out of there. the only thing is you might need a whole gallon to do any good. after it's clear of rust i would flush out the r/c w/ water so it doesn't react w/ any aluminum parts that it comes in contact w/. http://www.rust-cure.com/

Think that stuff is a little abrasive for the block?? What about the film it says it leaves?

Rust cure appears to be a rust converter product. I would not put that in my engine.


Running water through a cold block is going to flush some crude out, but probably not all that much. You could try CLR calcium lime and rust remover and see where that gets you.

Why not just put the old radiator back in there and use radiator flush from the autoparts store? If itīs real bad, use the radiator flush then run with just water for a week. Flush again and see how it looks. If everything cleans up nicely, maybe you donīt need a new radiator.

Here is my plan for the flush.. I am going to put my old heads back on with the set of victor reinz gaskets that i bought in a set off the bay, torque the old tty bolts a little to make a decent seal(im going to be getting arp headstuds for the final assembly), then flush it sitting on the enigne stand. I was actually thinking clr to begin with, so i will get some of that and radiator flush also. I will just plug the block right up (coolant wise) and let it sit overnight, then run the hose through it and drain, and repeat. Dumb me, i should have flushed it good with the old headgaskets and heads on there, but i wasnt thinkin then.... I really dont care about ruining the victor headgaskets, i am going to get felpros now(been on a felpro spree lately)... So we will see how that works... Im going to order a new set of heads next week hopefully, really need to work on the underside of the block now (oil pump, pickup, pan, and rear main). I am also going to check for cracks, i hope there arent any after the bad new on the heads...

Think that stuff is a little abrasive for the block?? What about the film it says it leaves?
i have used it on several project rust areas. although i don't think it's the answer to rust it seems like a good product. rinsing before it dries would prolly not allow the film to form. the left over residue is what leaves the film. just my suggestion.

Thx, ill look into it a little more, gotta find a vendor for it....

Got a link to rad, Dave?

afaik there's no vendors here that sell all aluminum rads.

here ya go guys.

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/

just enter your year after you select "all aluminum radiator" from the drop down menu on the left.

MGW, said something about a "Vitieon" (sp) rad.........ever hear, it's on the other site.

have to check it out...

Thanks Dave. But it says there out of stock on all the all alluminium rads for the 6.5.

Damn you guys for buying all of them.

Thanks Dave. But it says there out of stock on all the all alluminium rads for the 6.5.

Damn you guys for buying all of them.

They were there the beginning of the week. ):h

i put one in a friends S-10 plow truck and not only does it look awesome but the truck does run cooler.

we had large diesels that had sat, build up inside caused errosion on aluminum parts, ALCO's cure was electrisol(dishwasher compound) mix in bucket and pour into radiator. we ran engines for 2 hours then flushed like 4 times to get chemical out. took borescope to check and cleaned pretty good. i have added it to antifreeze(rusty/nasty) in morning prior to coolant change on my own trucks before, drove to store then drained and flushed. DON'T KNOW ABOUT MIXING WITH DEXCOOL. would drain then fill with water if that is what you have in cooling system.
as note they used to sell radiator flush, got msds and compared. had same ingredients.

Here is my plan for the flush.. I am going to put my old heads back on with the set of victor reinz gaskets that i bought in a set off the bay, torque the old tty bolts a little to make a decent seal(im going to be getting arp headstuds for the final assembly), then flush it sitting on the enigne stand. I was actually thinking clr to begin with, so i will get some of that and radiator flush also. I will just plug the block right up (coolant wise) and let it sit overnight, then run the hose through it and drain, and repeat. Dumb me, i should have flushed it good with the old headgaskets and heads on there, but i wasnt thinkin then.... I really dont care about ruining the victor headgaskets, i am going to get felpros now(been on a felpro spree lately)... So we will see how that works... Im going to order a new set of heads next week hopefully, really need to work on the underside of the block now (oil pump, pickup, pan, and rear main). I am also going to check for cracks, i hope there arent any after the bad new on the heads...

If i were attempting this,. i,d bolt the heads back on with old gaskets ,. remove the stat out of the water crossover,,.remove the water pump,. block off the wp holes, and fill her up with draino and cold water,. let it sit for a day,. then flush it well, going thru the t-stat hole and reverse flushing it so it comes out the w/p holes,.when the water comes clear,. i,d remove the drains out of the side of the block and flush the same way ,

Nick

If the radiator needs replacing, how about going to the junk yard and getting a dodge radiator and intercooler and installing an electric fan?

I went out and got radiator flush today, however due to the stupid ignition switch not fixin the problem i was so pissed i had to drop it for a while and cool down.