So how much can I crank up the turbomaster?

I can hit 1100 as is (pre turbo) when I'm on the throttle pretty hard where the turbomaster is set now. Is the heat caused by unburned fuel? If so, would cranking up the boost help a little?

Your sig says 9.5psi. Is that what you are still hittin', or is that before turbo master? If this is still your boost level, chances are you won't notice any difference if you turn it up. Maybe a little, but nothin to write home about. Jumps quick doesn't it? Wait till you turn up your IP!

Actually I tightened down the turbomaster spring last night, and got the truck to spike to 15psi for an instant while I had my boat in tow.

Thanks again to everyone for answering all of my questions about the pyro install in the "Sage Advice" thread. Knowing everything ahead of time made the install go smoothly, and it only took 2~3hrs from start to finish. Not bad for a first time.

And with the probe installed in the exhaust manifold just before the crossover flange on the driver's side, I didn't have to use the lead wire kit.

Stock tdc/timing?

Stock tdc/timing?As far as I know, that is correct.

I don't know diddley about timing, so I haven't messed with it. I barely know that TDC stands for "Top Dead Center", but I don't know what it means anyway. I guess you could say I'm "timing illiterate".

All I've done is bumped the optic in the IP.

Putting the timing at 8.5*'s will lower the egt's and increase the potential of the truck. stock timing is 3.5*'s before tdc, (retarded 6*'s for emmissions) all that is required to advance it is a 15mm wrench that can loosen the three IP bolts, and something to nudge the IP to the driverside 2.5mm.



I'm at 8.8*'s with the optical bump.

And with the probe installed in the exhaust manifold just before the crossover flange on the driver's side, I didn't have to use the lead wire kit.
If you didn't use all the wire sent with the kit your PYRO WILL NOT READ CORRECTLY.
Its specifically calibrated for the length of wire sent with it!

If you didn't use all the wire sent with the kit your PYRO WILL NOT READ CORRECTLY.
Its specifically calibrated for the length of wire sent with it!I've heard that before as well, but I think it's BS. How else would they be able to offer custom lead wire lenths from 5ft to 60ft in increasing increments of 5ft? Don't tell me they specifically calibrate each pyro for all of those lead wire length possibilities, cuz I doubt it.

But I suppose I could hook up the lead wire and check. It'd only take a couple of minutes.

CR, I hate to disagree with you but that is wrong. until you get huge lengths involved, reasonable lengths that we need are not an issue. The type of wire used with the meter made for it IS an issue. e.g. type K T J etc.

Alrighty then. I'm no electrician just passing on what was in the instructions with mine.

Now that we have that settled, let's get back to this...

Putting the timing at 8.5*'s will lower the egt's and increase the potential of the truck. stock timing is 3.5*'s before tdc, (retarded 6*'s for emmissions) all that is required to advance it is a 15mm wrench that can loosen the three IP bolts, and something to nudge the IP to the driverside 2.5mm.

I'm at 8.8*'s with the optical bump.My bro in law owns a shop and has the usual scanners. Would he be able to set the time for me with typical shop scanners, or does the 6.5 require a different than usual scanner, timing gun, or anything else? Would I notice immediate improvements with the timing change? He's pretty diesel illiterate.

Only a bi-directional scanner can move it without nudging the pump. The ones like I have only read the timing.
Make sure all DTC's are clear and engine is hot when trying to reset timing.

So how does "nudging the pump" work?

the IP is held to the timing cover by three 15mm bolts, loosen all three and move the pump housing ~2.5mm to the driverside. If there's no timing reference mark dead center between the IP and the timing cover, make one.

Then you look at timing at idle. If it's ~8.5*'s des/act and steady not moving up and down, you're good to go. all dtc's clear, engine hot, TDC offset will relearn at restart.

Loosen the three 15mm bolts and turn IP cw 2.5mm. Mark the IP/timing cover before turn. I can probably handle this much.

Then check timing. (I haven't a clue how).

Can the timing be checked with typical tools/scanners/timing guns like any usual auto shop would have? If so, then I'm sure my bro-in-law can check timing for me.

What is des/act?

Does turning the pump create a noticeable seat-of-the-pants improvement or keep EGT's lower?