DIY Propane Injection Kit [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: DIY Propane Injection Kit


ctamblin
06-19-2009, 03:24 PM
I am not a professional but a tinkerer – Information provided as-is and may not be DOT approved.

Just remember Safety First – I dug around the internet looking for information on this but came up wanting. According to my savings the $800 pro versions would pay for themselves in about 35K miles this one did it in 6K miles

Musings: It seems that there is a point at which more propane becomes just more fuel and doesn’t do much more. My understanding of the burn scenario is this: the diesel ignites thereby igniting the propane which burns rapidly and completely at the TOP of the compression stroke, like a gas engine. Think of it like a match on charcoal. If you use lighter fluid, it will start faster but you want to get the fire burning you don’t want to cook on lighter fluid. Sure the more propane you pour in your truck the more power you will get, until you run out of O2 or bend vital parts from the rapid expansion of the LP @ TDC, but you can get more power with more diesel too which is cheaper and safer for your engine. Just start the fire with propane and let the Diesel fuel deliver the power.


I posted some interesting MPG and performance results here:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245459&page=8

Parts:
Danmark - 12 Volt Multi Fuel Shut Off Valve 79-AFC11112 2 @ $25
BECooling - Pressure switch $13
Adventure RV - Automatic changeover regulator $50
Hardware Store:
3/8 copper tubing, 3’ angle iron, threaded rod.
Dash Switch with LED

In my suburban I removed the spare tire from the rear tire carrier and mounted 2 (20 LB) grill LP cans in its place using the cargo hold downs in the floor, a piece of Angle Iron and some threaded Rod.

I placed one shut off valve on the low output side of the dual regulator as a safety valve and mounted regulator behind the tanks. One safety feature of this arrangement is that if the short hoses are broken off the LP tanks they should shunt the flow of propane as designed for grill safety.

The copper line mounted nicely in the frame next to the fuel lines as GM was nice enough to leave a spare holder the whole length of the truck.
( Hole in floor was drilled obviously and grommet applied )

The other shutoff was installed before the turbo inlet.

The PSI switch is T’d into the Boost gauge tube and adjusted to about 2 psi. This is difficult to determine on my gauge so it is adjusted so the propane flows when the gauge moves off 0. I wired this so that the switch retrieves power form the ignition in the ON state and energizes the 1st fuel valve ( safety ) and power to the PSI switch. The PSI switch then engages the 2nd fuel valve ( @ the turbo) with Boost.

All total it took about 2 hours to install.

According to some other professional kits the propane should be installed so that at an idle, the engine would hobble a little with the PSI switch bypassed and propane flowing. My setup acted as described without adjustment so I didn’t have to worry about it. Usage is about 1 gallon propane to 10 gallons of diesel.

SOTP – this adds a LOT of power.
Pre propane my truck had all its power below 2K RPM and now has it past 3K RPM though I am careful not to push it that hard.
No Question when pulling hills or mountains there is MORE power.

awspc
02-28-2010, 10:16 PM
this need pics

chaseum
03-24-2010, 11:33 PM
marc deluca has a nice kit that will save you time and $$$. I ran it before my other mods. Also installed a kit on two of my friends trucks. Marc is on this board and I think his website is delucafuelproducts or something similar.

If you are looking to do something like this (and havn't yet), I would recommend you speak with him.

nodd89
04-15-2010, 11:52 PM
i am interested in pics as well

ctamblin
04-19-2010, 08:51 PM
Pics are now in my profile.
The 1st pic you can see where I located the tanks, probably NOT DOT aproved :)

2nd pic shows the regulator and the valve threaded directly on the bottom of it - Round canester with a white label. Simple 2 wires power & ground.

The 2nd valve isnt where I could get a pic of it but is actually located near the lift pump under the truck. Coper runs between the valves and the air filter housing.


Standard POTS Swith w/LED pic as well as pressure switch image.

I will see if I can get a diagram put together so maybe it makes more sense.

ctamblin
04-19-2010, 09:18 PM
April 2010 Update - my burb now has almost 180K miles on it - about 25K more than it had when I installed the propane a year ago.

I am running Mobil 1 synthetic and I changed the oil yesterday at about 5K miles. Although the oil was black - blindfolded I wouldnt have been able to distinguish between the new and old oil and no sludge in the drain pan- unlike my 1st oil change @ 145K.

Ammusing.
Over the weekend, I took on a newer ford diesel truck streetlight to streetlight.. He was fogging diesel fuel but didnt get away from me, proably would have on a longer run. I supose I could turn up the propane for more HP but racing isnt what I use the burb for. My burb was as cleaner than a gasser. In fact the only time my truck blows smoke is a little puf when I stop on the throttle.