Well I still haven't got my truck going, about 3 weeks ago I changed out my IP. Got it all changed and put back together just like the old one was in there, using factory service books. Also replaced the OPS cause it wasn't working the LP properly, now the LP works. I got fuel to the IP, then checked fuel to the injectors, cracked #1 injector and fuel was bubbling around the outside of injector line, so then I closed the injector line. Then I cranked and cranked and cranked giving it rests every 20 seconds like the book said. Well, I burned up the starter anyway after about 2 hours of doing this. So a friend of mine told me to try and pull start it, well went to pull it and got to my truck and the batteries were all the way dead, (someone left the key on, wasn't me). So I charged them for about 20 min off of a powerstroke and was getting a little juice from the batteries so we hooked up to it and he pulled me about a 1/4 mile and nothing, not even a hesitation. Anyone have any ideas? I really need this truck, I have been borrowing my cousins powerstroke and his trans is about trashed. Do I need alot of battery power even if he is pull starting me? Please Help!!!!!!!

Fresh batteries and possibly new cables could help it start up. If the terminals get hot when you crank it you have major resistance between the batteries and starter.

Check the glows for .8- 1.4 ohms resistance between the lead and blade.

The batteries are less than 3 months old, and I haven't got the starter on it yet, cause all I have is direct drives off of a 6.2 around here, and I can't afford $270 for a reman gear reduced starter right now. So I was trying to pull start it, but do I need good battery power for that to? The cables are good, I switched them over to top post about 2 months ago.

Can you get a scanner on it? Watch your CTIME while cranking, and check the FSOL fuse too, if that burns out you will never start it. Also watch for Crank and Cam missed pulses meaning the PCM is not getting signal from either the Optic sensor or Crank position sensor. But definitely a scanner will be critical for you at this point.

Where and what is the FSOL fuse? And where can I find a OBDI scanner, are they expensive? They must be the way people charge for a scan around here. I know that wal-mart has one for 35 dollars, but I think it is just a code scanner. Thanks for the help.

The F sol fuse in in the fuse area under the steering wheel.
Truck has plenty of fuel/supply pressure?

Yes it seems to be getting plenty of fuel, new filter and OPS, the LP is shooting it out when you open the bleeder on the filter about 3 or 4 inches high. And fuel is getting to the injectors, when you crack it a little bit fuel bubbles around the line. I don't think all the air is out of new IP, cause my starter wasn't turning very fast before it burned up, and there was alot of resistance between the starter and batteries. So maybe my starter was going bad before I tried to start it? All I can do from this point I guess is charge the batteries back up and put the other starter on and check the FSOL fuse and try all over again. All I have is a direct drive starter right now as a spare, you think it will at least get my truck started? Thanks.

Take your gear reduction starter apart and replace the worn parts. Shouldn't run you more than $20.

By chance when you did the IP replacement you didn't turn the engine over AT ALL after removing the old IP and before you installed the NEW IP and gear did you??? You also marked the position of the IP gear in reference to the cam gear right?

No I did not turn the engine over when the IP was off, and yes the new one is in the same spot. All I can do is get my starter fixed, and go from there, maybe my starter was bad to begin with, cause with fresh batteries and jumping from another diesel, it still wasn't turning as fast as it should. Thanks for all the advise, and I will check that FSOL fuse TDG. Thanks.

When I bought my '95 it turned over very slowly. I replaced the batteries and same thing. I tore the starter apart and replaced the brushes... they were cracked at the mounting tab...easy to do and parts were only $10.00. I took the old brushes to a local rebuild shop and they matched them up. It takes less than 1 hour once it is off the truck. I wish I had taken pictures, as it is not that difficult. The hardest part is removing/replacing the starter.

Thank-you for the experienced shared steelydan, I am taking the starter off tomorrow and taking it over to a guy my dad knows who is going to take a look at it, I appreciate it, and will keep you all updated. If it doesn't start tomorrow, my wife wants to sell it, and I don't want to do that. LOL.

Just tell her it will be much easier to sell for more money when its running, maybe after its running again she'll change her mind...lol

Sorry i couldn't help myself... my wife says the same thing about the 00.

My plan excatly!!!!:exactly: ):h .

Did I read your first post correctly that you cranked for 2 hours without starting. Check your voltage, vehicle computers will not work if they do not recieve more than 10.5v. Have you checked the PMD/FSD.

You can get a new starter for about $100 on ebay.
Did you have any smoke out the exhaust while cranking?

Is this a brand new (rebuilt) IP? or an ebay IP? If you've got fuel to the injectors, something seems up. . . like maybe not enough pressure to open the injectors.

The IP is a new (rebuilt) one from the local parts store, I don't trust ebay very much with an important part like that.LOL. I had good voltage, it just didn't seem like my starter was turning very fast at all, it sounded like if you had some weak batteries, but I didn't. They were fully charged, and pretty much brand new. Could the starter not being able to turn the motor like it should keep the IP from not having the pressure to open the injectors? Hopefully it came with a new PMD with the new pump, its supposed to. I guess if a new starter don't get it to start, I'll have to take that IP off and get another. Maybe they gave me a bad one? Thanks for the input.

P.S. The FSOL fuse is good. And there wasn't any smoke coming out the exhaust that I could tell.

I posted this several days back, but it must have gone off into the ozone layer, 'cause I do not see that post now..........

I installed a 6.2 starter when I built my rig in '99, with no ill effects - I don't like the Chrysler gear-starter sound.

Batteries should be at full charge, so PCM can drive Fuel Solenoid while starter is loading power.

If you see bubbles at the injectors, the pipes still have air in them preventing hydraulic pressure increase required to open the injectors.
No fuel injection, no white smoke, no run - simple, beautiful, depressing.

So, considering, of course, all else is correct and optimal...................

This works easier - less strain on the starter, hydraulic pressure builds quicker - if you remove the glow plugs.
Four on the driver's-side bank and front two on passenger-side bank makes a world of difference in cranking effort and resultant speed.

Takes two people - one to crank, one to observe and tighten
Or use a remote start switch attached to the starter

Loosen all the injector pipe nuts 1/2 turn

crank 15 seconds, wait one minute for the starter to cool

repeat sequence until pure fuel seeps out of each\any fitting

CAUTION : wear saftey goggles - fuel will spray out of open glow plug holes as injection pressure is reached.

NOTE: not to worry - fuel will not trickle out or drain back with nuts loosened 1/2 turn, so you're not losing any gain when pausing for starter cool-down..

Tighten each nut as fuel begins to seep with no bubbles.
Injectors may have air pockets by now, so make sure the seep has no bubbles.

CAUTION : wear saftey goggles - fuel will spray out of open glow plug holes as injection pressure is reached

Insert glow plugs, re-connect - engine should start

If runs rough and won't smooth out, kill it, unplug Optical Sensor, re-start - it will take extended time to start in 'limp' mode, but fuel lines and injectors will fully purge because PCM is not using Cylinder Balance and other routines.

Run it for 15mins, or until it smooths out, kill it, re-connect OS plug, re-start.

Direct drive starters will work for your engine BUT the like heat and over working less than the gear reduction that GMCTD doesn't like do. Always allow starter to cool at least twwice as long as cranked and longer for the more crank attempts. Good hot batteries and maybe a helper boost is allow ways helpful to, more amps never hurt when cranking. I have also used air pressure in the fuel neck to help prime my truck after working on it. Battery cables are important also as anything else on these starting systems, so you might relook at them very closely again.