I have a 98' K2500HD 4x4 6.5Diesel. I am in the Process of repacing the front brake pads on my truck and the rotors are warped and need to be turned. How do I get the rotor off of the spindle? I took the nut and washer off but now im stuck. Chiltons book isnt much help. Do I need a puller to get it off or what? thanks for the help!

-Brent

Most dealerships are able to turn the rotor while still on the truck. They are difficult to take off in those year trucks. The new design slip right off like a fwd car.

The best way is to use a slide hammer. They can be a real pain if you have a lot of miles on the rig. I did not have a slide hammer the first time my brother and I did the job on my 98 and needed to hammer them off they were on so tight!!! I knocked a good chunk out of them during the process so be prepared to use some force. For the price of a new set I would just go ahead and replace them, they're fairly reasonable from you rlocal parts store and may I recomend a good set of ceramic pads or carbon metalic so they don't screech 50 miles down the road. My 98 K2500 had some issues through its life knocking pads off and grinding the right side rotor... twice!!! The second time arround it was alot easier to get that dang rotor off. That truck ate breaks every 20K after the first set lasted 29K. Good luck!!!

ho, dont get the hammer out yet. there are four bolts on the back side of the hub. i believe they are 15mm. located where the cv slides in. take off the nut on the cv then take out the four bolts. after that take a rubber hammer and knock the rotor out. be careful because when it comes out bearing and all there is a lead for your anti locks attached to the inside with one small allan bolt. be careful not to damage it. its good to have two people, one to hold the rotor while the other takes loose the anti-lock lead but if have something to set the rotor on when it comes out you can do it yourself. one other thing , the bearing is pressed to the rotor , BE SURE YOU DONT MESS IT UP. that bearing cost about $300.

'98 2500 must be diff. than 1500, cause my '98 1500 was a piece of cake--rotors came off like a FWD car--cost maybe $20 each!

Thanks for the reply guys. I gave up and just put the new pads on. its wierd though, the truck doesnt shake anymore when I brake. Go figure :cool2:

Johnnydeesduramx is right on on his reply for removing the rotors on these trucks. And they are not anything like the 1500 at all. Make sure you have a good 15mm socket to fit the bolts in the back before you even start the job as they are recesed into the steering yoke.

Then on my 3500 I had to press all of the studs out from the front side to remove the rotor from the rear of the bearing assembly.
If you damage the sensor wire I think I may still have one from my 99 truck.

Sorry, I did assume it was already unbolted. Mine still required more effort than they should have as eveidenced by the chunk of rotor that came off before the rotor itself would give way. A second set of hands is certainly beneficial with seperation of the ABS lead.

And 100% more of a pain the arse than working on the 1500's...

Then when the guy with the brake lathe thries to get you to knock out the studs, DON'T do it. They can turn the assembly. Just wrap the ABS lead up inside.

While you are there, pull out the ABS sensor and clean up the rust where it sits and smear some dielectric grease on this area.

I also use dielectric on the pilot and bolts as an anti-seize that will last about forever...