Ok thanks to several recommendations from people on here, i have decided to go with JL Audio subs. I am going a complete system renovation and am needing some advice on the JL subs.

I am going to run 2 10" subs and noticed that JL has 3 or 4 different models. I need a little help deciding what model of 10" to get.

Their 10" list:
10 w1v2-4
10w1v28
10w3v34

So in my confusion i need help to decide what one is the difference. They will be going in an 07 (Classic) crew cab 3500.

Thanks KS

Depends on what you are going power them with! What amp sre you going to use? I have two JL Audio 10w1v2-4ohm for sale, if interested pm me!

Depending on where you are putting them, I dunno if the 10w3's will fit due to the Depth.

I know the 10w1's fit. Go look on JL's Site at the Gallery and you'll see what people put in our Trucks and where.

JL also makes a nice Stealthbox with 2 10w1's already in it. Sounds really good too.

Your list is incomplete.
10W0v2 - entry level sub, but not cheap sounding. Comes as a single 4 ohm voice coil. Needs around .625 cu ft. Handles up to 300 watts. Did a pair for a friend of mine, very good for the price.

10W1v2 - next level up, so more money. Comes as a single voice coil, 4 ohm or 8 ohm (the -4 or -8 in the model). Needs around .625 cu ft. Handles the same power as the W0. No experience with the v2's, but the v1's sucked azz.

10W3v3 - next level up, very nice sub used by several members here. Needs at least .625 cu ft sealed, but sounds better in larger box (.75-.85). Needs at least 1.25 cu ft ported, and works great there or a little larger (up to 1.4). Port around 32-34 Hz for a slammin sound. Come as a single voice coil, 2 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm. Handles up to 500 watts. Love this sub.

10W6v2 - comp level SQ sub, so $$. Needs at least .625 cu ft sealed, but again sounds much better in larger box (.85-1.0). Needs at least .75 cu ft ported, and works better in a larger box (up to 1.25). Port around 32-34 Hz for a slammin sound or port lower for a very extended low end. Comes as a dual voice coil, dual 4 ohm. Handles up to 600 watts. My favorite sub, hands down. I have the 12W6v1 in my truck.

10W7 - comp level SPL sub, many $$$$. Needs at least 1.25 cu ft sealed, more is better, up to about 1.5 cu ft. Needs at least 1.5 cu ft ported, again more is better up to about 2.5 cu ft. Port low to take advantage of the features built into this woofer. Loves big power. Comes as a single voice coil, 3 ohm. Handles up to 750 watts. Can have a bloated low end due to the design of the woofer. Can work as a SQ woofer, but takes a ton of tuning to make it work.

The W6 and W7 take a really deep box due to their mounting depth, so getting them to work in a truck takes a ton of work. The W3v3 is a challenge also since it's deeper than the older W3v2. It can work in some of the prebuilt under rear seat boxes, but be careful. It can go behind the rear seat with some mods. The W0 and W1 can go behind the rear seat without much trouble.

Plan your system out before just going and buying a hodge-podge of equipment. Planning makes a huge difference in determining how much money you will end up spending. Mods cost big $$$ and time.
John

As stated before, it will depend on the amp that you plan on using. The louder (bigger amp), the higher the "w" # is needed. On JL's site, it says what wattage range is reommended for what speaker. I can verify that an older Rockfor Fosgate punch 250 will kill a 10w1.

I can verify that an older Rockfor Fosgate punch 250 will kill a 10w1.

That's because it puts out REAL Power and then some. :D:cool:

Almost all new Amps are Jokes with their Power Ratings.

I really want to bump the 10w3v3's. Am thinking about mounting them in a subthump box???????

I put a 10W7 in my boat and it :rocking::rocking::rockit::rockit::D

I really want to bump the 10w3v3's. Am thinking about mounting them in a subthump box???????
Be sure to check mounting depth and airspace specs.
John

I have a 12" W3D in a single subthump box, fits and sounds great.