Anyone tried the Flexalite electric dual 15" electric fan setup for the Duramax?

If towing not a good idea. Stay with stock

I heard they don't pull as much air as the stock one.

I know a company that was having overheat problems on a 6.0 gasser plow truck. My buddie installed a set and it's been good since. I've considered them on all of my trucks just to shut up that damn fan sometimes!

You think without a trans. cooler up in front, That setup would work?

If you tow don't bother, Overheat central..

If you tow don't bother, Overheat central..

Explain why........I believe you, but curious.

The hardest work I do is plow snow, has no trouble cooling in the winter. Seriously, summer temps can be bad if the VSC (variable speed control) malfunctions. I am on my 3rd one. When all is operational, I have no problems.

I ran one last summer thinking i would save on some fuel, plus it looked cool.
but every time i would hitch up 12,000lbs or more the truck would overheat.
Also the ac did not work as well ether.

so in the trash goes the electrics,

It gets worse though i ended up throwing out the stock fan and shroud thinking I'll never put this crap back on. Bad idea... Cost me $500 and sum..

If you compare the electric to the size of your fan shroud they just don't compare.

Keep in mind also you will see hotter intake air temps with electrics so the small amount u might save in fuel robs you of power anyway. IMO. Thanks

The Flex-ailite fans only pull about 6000 CFM's I think. The stock fan pulls AT LEAST 9000 CFM if I remember what someone on here had said once. That difference is BIG when your towing.

The Flex-ailite fans only pull about 6000 CFM's I think. The stock fan pulls AT LEAST 9000 CFM if I remember what someone on here had said once. That difference is BIG when your towing.

SAME THING I HEARD! NOT A GOOD IDEA. I WANTED TO TRY IT ALSO BECAUSE THE STOCK FAN IS ANNOYING BUT IT COOLS LIKE IT NEEDS TO! IMO

if your really want electric fans then try the ford tempo fan mod. there is a how-to here somewhere on it. Might not be as good a puller as the stock fan but much better than the flex-a-lite's from what I've read.

You need to check out TxChristoper Fan Dam mod.

He is a member here. The website was coolmyduramax.com but I cant get to it. He makes a fan that flows better than stock. Like 10k cfm.

You need to check out TxChristoper Fan Dam mod.

He is a member here. The website was coolmyduramax.com but I cant get to it. He makes a fan that flows better than stock. Like 10k cfm.

Yeah and about $1,200 IIRC :eek:

The stock fan pulls north of 10,000 CFM. If you want e-fans better find some that pull that much otherwise you will be overheating! My Taurus fans do pretty well but I can tell they wont pull enough when it starts getting hot with a load. Plus you have to deal with electronics and when they fail no cooling... Clutch fan is dependable and flows the air you really need. The mileage and performance gains are not what they are cracked up to be especially when you have to run a 200 amp alt. to keep up with the draw at idle...

The stock fan pulls north of 10,000 CFM. If you want e-fans better find some that pull that much otherwise you will be overheating! My Taurus fans do pretty well but I can tell they wont pull enough when it starts getting hot with a load. Plus you have to deal with electronics and when they fail no cooling... Clutch fan is dependable and flows the air you really need. The mileage and performance gains are not what they are cracked up to be especially when you have to run a 200 amp alt. to keep up with the draw at idle...

summed up perfectly:D END OF THREAD..

summed up perfectly:D END OF THREAD..

Thank you sir!

Not to step on any toes, but I have the Flex-A-Lite's on my truck with all kinds of mods and have never had any overheat issues. I have 35's on my truck, stock gearing (3.73's), and I pull all the time and have never had the truck over 205 degrees, and that was pulling 10,000 lbs up a 4 mile long, 5-7% grade at 70 mph. They also make the a/c work awesome! Printed right on the box, they tell you if your GVW (truck, trailer, load) adds up to 18,000 lbs or more, they don't recommend it. I would imagine that they would work great on a stock vehicle as well (a lot lower egt's). One thing to look for on the VSC (fan controller) is to make sure it is the updated version that has all four power wires soldered directly to the circuit board, rather than the type that has slip-on spade terminals. I had 4 of the old style fail on my Suburban, hence the updated version. Just my two cents.

I just wish that the stock fan did not make near the noise it does. It has been a 100 degrease here lately and I can not stand the fan sound. Sounds like the engine is running at about 5,000rpm's.... HUH:(

Loud stereo + straight piped will solve the noise problem.

I just wish that the stock fan did not make near the noise it does. It has been a 100 degrease here lately and I can not stand the fan sound. Sounds like the engine is running at about 5,000rpm's.... HUH:(

But does it overheat? :)

i build my own setup with dual fans from a 2005 chrisler 300 and it works perfect no overheating problems i believe it works better than stock...IMO

only too bad i got chrysler parts on a GM lol

im thinking about squeezing a smaller electric fan up on the front myself and keeping the factory....now that its starting to worm up and get hot again ill find out what temp the fan starts to get loud at ill adjust the little guy to kick on maybe 5* before the big gun does.......hmmmmmm maybe even have it kick on to work with a turbo timer??? and like some cars when the ac is kicked on to help get that sucker get cold in a hurry...just my two cents
what are your guys' thoughts about this? btw ive never had a problem towing well over 10k and its an lly

I had a flexilite in mine 03 LB7... overheating was a big problem when towing anything!!!! save your money

I ran one last summer thinking i would save on some fuel, plus it looked cool.
but every time i would hitch up 12,000lbs or more the truck would overheat.
Also the ac did not work as well ether.

so in the trash goes the electrics,

It gets worse though i ended up throwing out the stock fan and shroud thinking I'll never put this crap back on. Bad idea... Cost me $500 and sum..

If you compare the electric to the size of your fan shroud they just don't compare.

Keep in mind also you will see hotter intake air temps with electrics so the small amount u might save in fuel robs you of power anyway. IMO. ThanksHoly crap do you live in an apartment complex? I never throw anything away. I will always save stuff like that.

if your really want electric fans then try the ford tempo fan mod. there is a how-to here somewhere on it. Might not be as good a puller as the stock fan but much better than the flex-a-lite's from what I've read.I have done the Ford fan mod on other vehicles, but the Thunderbird turbo coupe or Merkur XR4Ti (same fan) is even better. Bigger in diameter and still a 2 speed design.

The bottom line for electric fans is: If they advertise it can be used for a pusher or a puller then its a piece of CRAP!!!

You think an airplane prop works the same as a pusher or a puller?

Also notice the 2006 fan design it has a captured shroud that fills the gap between the motor and the fan. Anyone know if us LB7 guys can use this design?

I had a set of flexlite dual electric fands but the wiring causght on fire where the fuse plugs in and could have possibly burned my truck to the ground. I bought mine from JEGS. I called them and they gave me my money back. I've heard of others guys on this set having the same problem.

All electric fans need to be wired through a relay directly to the battery/s but switched to the ignition.

If you just pick some wire in the factory harness that "looks big enough" your asking for trouble.

I needed to wire mine through to an aftermarket adjustable electronic thermostat relay.

Explain why........I believe you, but curious.
The Flex electric setup is rated at 5500 cfm.

The stock one is WELL north of 6000.

I had considered them also, but I am right at the knife-edge of their GVW cut-off. 18000 is about the combo I run, and I think they limit at 16000.

I would think the AC would run better, having full cooling at idle. But, I haven't tried them.

im thinking about squeezing a smaller electric fan up on the front myself and keeping the factory
Ya know, my last dually- a '98 with 454 - had the small aux fan in FRONT of the AC condenser. Kinda on the driver's side. Prolly about 10"-12". I don't know what heat setting it came on at, but it MAINLY came on with high AC selection. Sitting idling, in 115* Havasu heat, the AC would do real well - all things considered.

Yes, it's a little bit of restriction, but I think it would be beneficial.

They suck period. I pull a 5 and 6 Horse Trailer loaded down the majority of my time and they pulled in way less air than stock..

Holy crap do you live in an apartment complex? I never throw anything away. I will always save stuff like that.

I have done the Ford fan mod on other vehicles, but the Thunderbird turbo coupe or Merkur XR4Ti (same fan) is even better. Bigger in diameter and still a 2 speed design.

The bottom line for electric fans is: If they advertise it can be used for a pusher or a puller then its a piece of CRAP!!!

You think an airplane prop works the same as a pusher or a puller?

Also notice the 2006 fan design it has a captured shroud that fills the gap between the motor and the fan. Anyone know if us LB7 guys can use this design?
thats what the one on my lb7 has... I have just been to lazy to install it..

They suck period. I pull a 5 and 6 Horse Trailer loaded down the majority of my time and they pulled in way less air than stock..
Guys fans dont work on the highway... the airstream going through the rad at 60 is more than any fan can pull. Fans are for in city driving.. stop and go.

Guys fans dont work on the highway... the airstream going through the rad at 60 is more than any fan can pull. Fans are for in city driving.. stop and go.
Bullshit. At 60 mph when my fan goes on high my temps come down. Some of us drive where there are hills.

Bullshit. At 60 mph when my fan goes on high my temps come down. Some of us drive where there are hills.



i took the fan off my old ford and replaced it with an electric fan and i actually havent had it come on yet im beginning to wonder if the thermostat even works or if im just not sitting long enough for it to come on but ive waited north of 5 minutes with it idling and it hasn't came on nor overheated i know it works when i flip a manual override switch i have but taking the fan off for the smaller truck was the best thing i ever did.actually accelerates harder and the fan was soooo loud it actually made it sound like it was reeving hi at about 2500 it made me scared to take it past 3000 rpm lol

Guys fans dont work on the highway... the airstream going through the rad at 60 is more than any fan can pull. Fans are for in city driving.. stop and go.
I know what you're saying, but for those of us that use our trucks - pulling 9000lbs or more (behind the 8000lb truck) up a 6+% grade at 65+ mph in 110* heat - believe you/me, the fan is required.

I know what you're saying, but for those of us that use our trucks - pulling 9000lbs or more (behind the 8000lb truck) up a 6+% grade at 65+ mph in 110* heat - believe you/me, the fan is required.
I tow my 28' TT, loaded with all my toys for spending the winter in the Imperial Valley, through the Rockies every year... never had the needle move. I did add 2 bottles of water wetter to the "death-a-cool.

Not to step on any toes, but I have the Flex-A-Lite's on my truck with all kinds of mods and have never had any overheat issues. I have 35's on my truck, stock gearing (3.73's), and I pull all the time and have never had the truck over 205 degrees, and that was pulling 10,000 lbs up a 4 mile long, 5-7% grade at 70 mph. They also make the a/c work awesome! Printed right on the box, they tell you if your GVW (truck, trailer, load) adds up to 18,000 lbs or more, they don't recommend it. I would imagine that they would work great on a stock vehicle as well (a lot lower egt's). One thing to look for on the VSC (fan controller) is to make sure it is the updated version that has all four power wires soldered directly to the circuit board, rather than the type that has slip-on spade terminals. I had 4 of the old style fail on my Suburban, hence the updated version. Just my two cents.

I've run the flex a lites for a few years now as well and truck has never run hot, not once. with all these negative stories and only one guy in here with a positive result..I figured I'd also throw in my $.02 on it. Granted there are better fans, but I personally like my flex a lites and I've towed all across Texas with them with the AC on and temp is never above 192. AC is cold, mileage gained is good, noise is gone... only complaint is the fan controller just like the guy above said. in the beginning they were crap, but they fixed the issues with the updated design.

anyways.. I like them!.....I realize this is the LB7 forum, but I was searching for something and came across this thread....

Electric has its place and distinct advantages. Belt driven is KISS superior and much cheaper. Decide based on what YOU do with the truck, not what some one thinks the truck should be doing.
Hydraulic can be the best of both worlds, less the KISS part. Imagine a much upgraded Hydroboost Pump (could be better anyway) driving two, or one fan through a control block that throws simple out the window. But would solve all concerns and conveniences.