: Just finished replacing all 4 ball joints.
Quick06 06-09-2009, 07:42 PM I just finished replacing all 4 ball joints and let me tell you, its quite the task. I have also changed all 4 tie rod ends and a wheel hub.
I was going to replace pitman arm and idler arm, but the pitman arm puller I have wont fit. Does the whole gearbox have to come out or is there a special tool for our trucks? Would a 3 arm pulley puller do the trick?
BigIron67 06-10-2009, 12:43 AM I am going to replace the ball joints this week as soon as I decide what brand I will use. I wanted to use Spicer but can not find them locally. Seems that everyone stocks Moog.
What did you find was the biggest problem with the ball joint install?
Soak the splines in penetrating oil, put a large hose clamp around the arms, put pressure on the puller nut. Let the penetrating oil do the work and the arm should come right off. clean splines with wire brush and coat with anti-seize and reinstall.
wreedLBZ 06-10-2009, 12:44 AM order spicer from rockauto.com
BigIron67 06-10-2009, 01:00 AM Are Spicer that more expensive that no one stocks them?
Quick06 06-10-2009, 08:07 PM The hardest part of the install in my opinion was breakin the lower ball joint from the A arm. But everyone I have talked to says its a piece of cake. But I never said I was the best mechanic I reckon.
I borrowed a pitman arm puller from Autozone but I couldnt get it to fit around my Pitman arm. Theres not much room. Any tricks to Switching the pitman arm?
got-h2o 06-10-2009, 08:23 PM For the pitman you'll have to pull the gearbox off from the frame and swing it out of the way. A std 2 jaw pitman tool works great. I'll bet the rubber slipped down the splined shaft a little and that's what you're seeing. Take a screwdriver and push it back up in the gearbox and you'll be able to slide the puller in ;)
Quick06 06-10-2009, 08:45 PM That's what I figured. A buddy of mine told me he replaced his and didn't have to pull the gearbox. What about the idler arm? It looks like a tight fit as well?
got-h2o 06-10-2009, 09:09 PM That's what I figured. A buddy of mine told me he replaced his and didn't have to pull the gearbox. What about the idler arm? It looks like a tight fit as well?
Did you just get the replacement arm, or the whole assy? It's an easy replacement either way. If just the replacement arm, it's easiest just to pull it.....it's only 2 bolts and the pivot nut. A few good whacks on the side of the center link and it will separate easier than a fork will. It's way more accessible when it's out. I can do an idler in about 15 minutes ;)
got-h2o 06-10-2009, 09:11 PM As for not removing the gearbox, you don't take it all the way off, you leave the steering shaft on and let it hang on that.....well prop it up against the sway bar. Not removing it will more than double R&R time.
You'll see once you're under there......it's just nuts and bolts, right!?
Quick06 06-10-2009, 09:22 PM Should I pull the whole sway bar out then? Or do you mean take the two nuts holding the idler arm to the sway bar and the opposite end. Then pound on the idler arm and it will just pop off after plenty of pb blatser obviously?
Sorry, I just over think everything before I do it. Where at in Indiana are you located at goth2o?
Quick06 06-10-2009, 09:24 PM Yeah I changed the gearbox last year and the bolts holding the gearbox to the frame is the easiest part so it probably won't be as big of a deal as what I'm making it.
Coolbreeze 06-10-2009, 10:04 PM When seperating the ball joints get a 2lb hammer and wack the steering knuckle. I'm not such a fan of the forks and you need a real big one plus the 2lb hammer anyways so just use the hammer right on the knuckle. Toughest part of the ball joint is air chiseling the studs. I got no air chisel so I guess I'm not doing mine.
got-h2o 06-10-2009, 10:29 PM Should I pull the whole sway bar out then? Or do you mean take the two nuts holding the idler arm to the sway bar and the opposite end. Then pound on the idler arm and it will just pop off after plenty of pb blatser obviously?
Sorry, I just over think everything before I do it. Where at in Indiana are you located at goth2o?
No need to remove sway bar at all, unless you mean centerlink? Infact, although PB is your friend, no need for it on the idler IMO.
I'm in Griffith. You close by? Bring it on over, I'll do it for ya! :)
Aprilwine 06-11-2009, 12:37 AM Are Spicer that more expensive that no one stocks them?
Actually, at Rock Auto the Spicer Professional Grade are cheaper than the Moog and are a better product.
Quick06 06-12-2009, 04:47 PM Yeah I meant center link I believe.. Im sure Ill figure this all out. I have all monday after I get off work till late Tuesday night.
Im from Muncie. Im not sure where Griffith is?
got-h2o 06-12-2009, 09:59 PM Yeah I meant center link I believe.. Im sure Ill figure this all out. I have all monday after I get off work till late Tuesday night.
Im from Muncie. Im not sure where Griffith is?
You're about three hours from me. I'm up in the NW corner, a few towns from IL, and a few more south of the lake ;)
Quick06 06-17-2009, 06:05 PM Ic. I got my pitman and idler arm done and they were really easy. Thanks for the help goth2o! Igot my truck aligned today and its a whole new truck. Of course I got home and realized my bottom radiator hose was leaking! So, there goes another $120.
I should become a writer for a magazine or news paper, because there is always some bs happening to me, It would be like Marley and me, all my stories would be about my everyday life.
Only thing is I would have to work on my grammar. You would think I would be good at it since I'm a college student.
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