Hi everybody,

My truck is a completely stock 2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 with the Ally 1000 and a 263xhd t-case and has had ZERO issues prior to this.

I had a monster crack in my adapter housing at 120k and decided to try to save myself about $1000 by replacing the part myself. I got the part (which is a different part number than the original... the original part number is discontinued probably for the common cracking issue) and installed everything. It didnt want to go on easily and I tried re-seating it no less than 10 times before I got it to seat a little better.... but I still had to torque the bolts pretty tight before the 2 surfaces actually touched. Other than that, there didnt seem to be anything out of the ordinary. The output shaft stayed in place, the fluid was replaced and seems to be at the correct level, the fluid that came out was like new and all the electrical connectors were checked twice. There are no OBD codes stored. The shifter moves and indicates like normal, the truck just doesnt move in any gear. Am I missing anything? Could it just be air trapped somewhere? Any other ideas? THANKS!!

Did you remove the transmission from the truck to replace the adapter housing?
I know very little about transmissions, but recall the question can you do this job without removing the trans from the truck, and remember the concensious was you need to know what you're doing AND be VERY careful. If something slips out of place during housing extension, it would be difficult to detect, and cause a very expensive failure.
Try a search.
Some of the resident transmissions Guy's here might help you.

I would never attempt this job in the truck. I have had to rebuild 3 or 4 Alli's that had this done in the truck and every one hurt the torringtons. I tried this once just to see how hard it actualy was anddidn't feel comfortable with it. Pulle the trans out and sure enough a torrington had slipped out of place.

From what I can tell if Mike says it so then take it to the bank...

If it did not seat flat with very little pressure its time to pull it back apart. Once the bolts are started you should be able to push the housing all the way until it touches without tighten the bolts. If you cannot you have had the bearings slip out of place and will just break more stuff by leaving it that way. Do not drive it or run the transmission this way or your most likely going to cause more damage. You can do it this way but it's not easy and you have to be very careful when doing it.

What they said. I just built my ALLISON and it is a bear to drop in that rear assembly unless it is perfectly straight up and down. The alignment pin and the parking pawl shaft can be a pain as well when you couple the weight hanging down as well. And those little torrington bearings fall out of place easy.

Well, I will be tearing it back down this weekend... What are the torrington bearings? Isnt that a brand? Are they on this IPB? http://www.compnine.com/largeimg/050103TX04-031.gif

You broke something. Either a thrust bearing, clutch plate, or spacer dropped out of place when you removed the rear cover. That's why in the earlier post I said to run down the cover bolts gently by hand until the cover was seated. That lets you know if there's a problem. The fact that you had to pull down hard means something was out of place.

Check out these threads for earlier comments:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311443

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=298368

Well, I will be tearing it back down this weekend... What are the torrington bearings? Isnt that a brand? Are they on this IPB? http://www.compnine.com/largeimg/050103TX04-031.gif

The torrington bearings are the little needle/thrust bearings that sit between the planetaries and sun gears. They are about 2" or so in diameter and maybe 1/8" thick and round.

Its hard to tell with that picture... either 3 or 5 is the rearmost torrington bearing. Its the one that sits on top of the P3 sun gear. Im leaning towards it being "5". "3" in the pic looks like that spacer that sits on the main shaft right under the P3 sun gear, but then again thats wrong because that picture shows "3" sitting above the P3 sun gear...so Im all confused in looking at that diagram???

Crafty1 correct me if Im wrong...

ben

Hey man you must remove the trans from the truck and stand it up (bell housing down) to replace. I tried like you to do it in the truck but you planitary gears and clutch packs fall out of place and will have your trans jammed. Once you pull it out it's pritty simple and everything sitts really nice and the only thing that holds the tail housing up of the back of the trans is the back spring plate then you simple torque the bolt and your good to go!

Right Ben, picture is hard to see, but Item 3 is the T6 Torrington thrust bearing. IDiesel look for cracks, chips out of this one. More likely to lose engagement with T4 (between P1 and P2 carriers) or T5 (between P2 carrier and P2 sun gear) bearings in the planetary group.

I did mine in the truck with no problems. Just put a little Vaseline on the torringtons and equally tightened down the bolts. Then made sure the output shaft turned freely in neutral before putting Tcase back on. Also helps if the ass end of the truck is up higher than the front end. The more the better.