I ground on my mouthpiece rib and cut one of the clocking tabs on mouthpiece. I cannot get mouthpiece to set as level as I have seen others do. It's close but it is resting on EGR coolant nipple. Don't want to risk breaking solder or weld joint this by bending. Anyone else mount this way?

Thanks
Steve

Alot of people have thiers mounted a little above level. You should still have plenty of hood clearance. If you decide to try and bend the EGR cooler pipe try to put a 1/2" drive extension veticaly on the inside of the bend to support it some when you bend it. I got lucky with mine and it didn't leak when I got done.

I just did this install yesterday. The top of my MP was not exactly 90 degrees. My biggest challenge was getting the face of the MP to fit properly in the V clamp. Once I got it set, all was good.

for those who didn't bend coolant nipple, is mouthpiece resting on the coolant nipple? If so, could this be a long term problem of a rubbing failure?

Thanks

I didn't use the LBZ MP but the kodiac MP and what I did was removed the tabs on the MP and left the band clamp a little loose to were I could still move the MP lowered the hood than raised it and then tightened the band clamp and I had about a 1/8 inch clearance between MP and EGR cooler tube.

well i installed mine sat. and my egr started leaking so i by-passed the whole damn thing;) dont need it. everthing else went great

for those who didn't bend coolant nipple, is mouthpiece resting on the coolant nipple? If so, could this be a long term problem of a rubbing failure?

Thanks

I wouldn't think that would cause any problems. Everything is moving or vibrating together there assuming the MP is on tight.

My coolant tube is bent down some and the MP is touching the tube on my truck.

You might also try loosening all the bolts holding the EGR coolant tube in place and shift the cooler away from the mouthpiece and retighten it.

Normally the factory gives us some oversized holes that may help here.;)

Has there been any reported mouthpiece failures from grinding the rib down?

Has there been any reported mouthpiece failures from grinding the rib down?

I don't remember reading about any failures related to grinding of the rib. IIRC there is a good bit of material on the rib so losing strength should't be a problem.

I don't remember reading about any failures related to grinding of the rib. IIRC there is a good bit of material on the rib so losing strength should't be a problem.


What does IIRC Mean?

If I remember correctly.:)

Thanks Champ:)

I did a little of both...

bent the tubwe a little/ belt sanded rid a little....1/4" clearance now.

Here's a question. I have an 05 dually that I going to do this mod on tomorrow, just happen to have a couple of LBZ stocks intakes laying around. Can you replace the entire setup on the LLY using the LBZ setup? Will twin it eventually, just trying to get it to run with lower egt's and engine temps for now. We are towing the race trailer with it and it's pretty heavy.

Here's a question. I have an 05 dually that I going to do this mod on tomorrow, just happen to have a couple of LBZ stocks intakes laying around. Can you replace the entire setup on the LLY using the LBZ setup? Will twin it eventually, just trying to get it to run with lower egt's and engine temps for now. We are towing the race trailer with it and it's pretty heavy.

Yep - it can be done, but IIRC you'll require a MAF reflash if you're doing the entire intake.

Yep - it can be done, but IIRC you'll require a MAF reflash if you're doing the entire intake. that's not a problem, thanks

Somewhere around here someone posted the values for us EFI Live users. :)

Yep - it can be done, but IIRC you'll require a MAF reflash if you're doing the entire intake.

Randy with all this intake talk I have a question for you or for who ever.
I have all ready done an Airraid Cai,4" turbo back exhaust and have never thrown a code or have had to reflash...If I change the mouthpiece to a LBZ will it work with the airraid and will I have to reflash?

Randy with all this intake talk I have a question for you or for who ever.
I have all ready done an Airraid Cai,4" turbo back exhaust and have never thrown a code or have had to reflash...If I change the mouthpiece to a LBZ will it work with the airraid and will I have to reflash?

I just installed an entire LBZ intake system in the 05 tow truck and it immediately set codes and required a reflash. Did an 4" turbo back exhaust system while I was at it. Made a whole new truck out of it, stock filter while looking OK was messed up and really restricting air intake flow. Pulling the race trailer (15K+) this friday to Billings MT for the NHRDA race there on Sat. Looking forward to how it performs. Last week when we drove to Fallon NV, egt's on the flat were about 1030 degrees and would go easy into the 1400's on a hill unless you really babied it. Engine temp would also get close to the limit on a good hill. Also put on a Titan 56 gal tank. Maybe make a tow truck out of this thing yet.:D

I installed the LBZ MP and S&B LBZ intake in my 05 today also did the PCV reroute. It took me some time to get the MP and turbo to match up and the clamp on right. After all that took it out for a test run and the truck bogged down a little once need to get my MAF re-flashed I assume. While testing my exhaust came apart just before the muffler. I tried to retighten the flange but did work got to take to the shop.

So with all these LBZ and Kodiac mouthpieces being installed, does anyone have a foolproof method to bend EGR coolant nipple w/o causing a leak. Or has a good way to remove the EGR coolant log and block off connections. The mouthpiece intake looks alot better mounted in a true horizontal position.
And from what I have seen, the EGR coolant nipple is in the way

I bent mine just a bit when the engine was still hot and with light taps. Had no problems at all. I also filed down the ridge so the mouth piece lays down nice and flat.

Bruce

I put mine in a couple of days ago.
- I was afraid to try to bend the EGR coolant nipple.
- I rotated the clip on the coolant hose because it was pointing where the MP would be.
- I ground down the lip on the MP, but not all the way.
- I found it tricky to get the clamp to grab both the MP and turbo, mostly because there isn't much room to see if you're lined up. I even suspected the bottom alignment lip so I cut it off (the LLY one doesn't have any). Finally got it.
- I rotated the MP so there's about 1/16" gap to the coolant line.
- I cut down the stock air pipe per DDD's instructions (2-1/2" from the yellow label). The accordian stretches out a little (I like that).

The result is it sticks up a little but it doesn't hit the hood insulation, so it's good to go.

As a side benefit, I found that the ground battery cable from the driver side had been up against the pulley and was cut about 2/3rds of the way through. Replaced that today.

Jake 111. I did something similar what you did but I have Kodiac MP.

I didn't use the LBZ MP but the kodiac MP and what I did was removed the tabs on the MP and left the band clamp a little loose to were I could still move the MP lowered the hood than raised it and then tightened the band clamp and I had about a 1/8 inch clearance between MP and EGR cooler tube.

My mp isnt exactly at 90 degrees but isnt really noticable, I didnt bend the egr or grind the mp.

So with all these LBZ and Kodiac mouthpieces being installed, does anyone have a foolproof method to bend EGR coolant nipple w/o causing a leak. Or has a good way to remove the EGR coolant log and block off connections. The mouthpiece intake looks alot better mounted in a true horizontal position.
And from what I have seen, the EGR coolant nipple is in the way


Just done mine - I used the gas torch, small tip,flame as low as could set it, just warmed it up a bit then get get somebody to hold torch (in my case Wifey:)) right out of way then bent it with a tyre lever hooked onto little ridge on manifold, just small amount at a time did this 2 or 3 times would not bend it too far or it'll start to crush.
Also ground down the rib,(left a small amount). Didn't need to touch the tabs on turbo face.
This allowed the arrows to line up :cool:.

To hook up I used 2 4" 90* black rubber bends (Donaldson part # P105533) cost NZ$ 26.00 ea. with a short lengh of 4" tube in between (in this case a piece of 316 stainless :cool: I had spare.

All fits and looks good.