What type of Fuel Additives do you add or need to add to the 6.5?

I'm new to diesels. It still has a little less than 3/4 of a tank from the previous owner.

Do I need to add the stuff every tank, every other tank...?

The vehicle will not be driven much. Maybe one a week, Long trips, and to Tow things (usual trip is upwards of 400 to 600 miles total)

Go to Maintenance and Fluid section. On the sticky there is lubricity study. Click on that and read the report. That is the best report instead of opinions.

Diesel fuel is the same for everybody regardless of the engine.

PS: What I mean with the last statement is the study is done independent of engine. I don't claim I know anything about Cummins or PowerS. However, I know 6.5. While it is not exactly the same as other engine, the additive in the study should be a good way to choose your additive based on availability and money.

Different engines do have differnt fuel needs. What someone with a new truck uses might not be good for what you can use, and what someone else uses for a similar year Cummins or something might not work well either because our injection pumps are different. Newer diesel injection pumps have been made to run with less fuel lubrication, even though most people will still add them.

First, if using #2 ULSD, you should add lubrication with every tank. the best value is cheapest non-detergent SAE30 or TCW3 2-stroke oil. 1qt max to a full tank, 1/2 quart min.

Second, our injection pump has an optical sensor (OS), which means it has to see through the fuel to get a cam timing reference. So you can't use a lot of anything dark.

Third, because of that OS using anything with a solid lubricant is bad, as you dont want it sticking to the "eye" of the sensor.

Fourth, also because of the OS, using heavy detergents/solvents can pick up crud and cloud the fuel and cause OS codes. Not that a cruddy fuel tank and lines is a good thing, but you just have to know what to expect.

I add stanadyne performance formula per recomended dose to every fill up, and 2 cycle oil too....

I add stanadyne performance formula per recomended dose to every fill up, and 2 cycle oil too....

i,ve been adding the two stroke oil,.and i,m wondering about it gumming up the optic sensor,..

Nick

i,ve been adding the two stroke oil,.and i,m wondering about it gumming up the optic sensor,..

Nick

Don't think you need to worry about it gumming it up, but the dark dye in 2-stroke can possibly cloud it up. That is the main reason a lot of us switched to SAE-30 Non Detergent. Cheap, clear, lubes, no fear to stain the OS high resolution eye.

I think it was Bill Heath who started the trend, for what thats worth. (It helps counter all the '2-stroke was made to burn, SAE-30 wasn't responds)... You're not burning it 40:1 like in a chainsaw, More like 128:1 (1 oz per gallon) Turbine Doc runs 32oz per 25gallon tank for years with no Issues)

Perhaps the combustion temps of the engiens which spike at 2500-3000df burns off any ash residue which the oil COULD possible leave...

Either way, I like the Sae-30, cheap easy to find, and clear.

I also run PowerService Grey in summer, and white in winter to aid in gelling.

I am going to try some bio-diesel in slightly higher mix, see if i like that. Just havn't gotten around to getting any, I found a source 40miles away.

From all the research, I read the biodiesel lubes the best.

heath told me a qt of the cheapest motor oil and some stanadyne. i use about 1/2 bottle of stanadyne to 20 gallons (he said it helps to keep optic sensor clean)
and a qt of motor oil.
todd said he runs 4 qts of motor oil w/a bottle of stanadyne in his fuel in his rig when he tows.
im running close to 2qts per tank for a little while for new ip and injectors.
i think the PS silver can is similar to stanadyne, it smells just as strong.
they are a solvent, not really any lubricity in the solvent based additives, you need oil for that.
bill heath has told me he doesnt see much use for 2stroke anything in diesel.
the motor oil is what he told me to use.
i use what they say
you have to have something. the ULSD is just too low for lubricity.
the sulfur is not the lubricity, it is the process of removing sulfur that strips lubricity.
the best is bio, even 5%.
jon

I wonder if Heath will provide lubricity numbers for motor oil. The study done used some USED 15W-40, and it did almost nothing for lubricity.

If using 4 quarts of oil, is that used? That would cost more than a gallon of diesel, or is that much needed to add enough lubricity?

2-stroke oil on the other hand provided very good lubricity.

The best of the list was Biodiesel. USe this link to find it near you.

1 Gallon per 25 gallons or so.
http://findbiodiesel.org/

in my truck, i use 10oz cheap TCW-3 2 stroke oil, and a squirt of power service white ( i'd use grey in the summer, but i got 3 bottles of white for free ) . Some say you can notice a difference in how the truck sounds with the 2-stroke, but i think it may be psychological. It definitely helps with lubricity

The 2 cycle oil I use is blue, not red, and it does tint the diesel blue, but I have been doing it since I have had the truck and have had no trouble with the OS. I get it from walmart, by the gallon.....

I use a blue TCW-3 for more than a year now, with no issue.

So If I were go to the local store and get something, Just get a quart of Oil and maybe some other additives? (either the Gray or white bottle)

Closest place for Bio is about 25 miles away.

so biodiesel strait in my tank or 50/50?

and how about the guys in ontario can they get biodiesel i cant find it

so biodiesel strait in my tank or 50/50?

5% or less is recommended. I've yet to try it. Soon though.

So If I were go to the local store and get something, Just get a quart of Oil and maybe some other additives? (either the Gray or white bottle)

Closest place for Bio is about 25 miles away.

closest for me is 40, so you luck out!

On complete fillup put 1 gallon of bio, and recommended dosage for grey powerservice (white is for winter climate)

They say the cost is paid for in MPG gains, so don't worry about that.

whats important is to put SOMETHING in your fuel.
guarantee this, there is not enough lubricity in ULSD for your stanadyne IP or injectors, period.
the tests i have seen called a "scar test" - ULSD had a rating of something like "620", the highest that should be allowed for mechanical pumps is around 590 - or wear (in some amount) will happen.
a whole list of additives were tested to see what would lower the 620 to an acceptable amount.
PS and stanadyne are solvent based. if you think im kinding, open the toolbox on my truck where i keep the bottle, one of the strongest solvents ive found. not really any lubricant in them, you need an oil for that. they clean the OS and anti gel in the winter.
how much oil is enough or too much?
a quart of oil sounds reasonable and a little solvent based PS or stanadyne to keep the OS clean.
bio is an option. you can also buy a supply of it, dump in a gallon or so when needed - i believe it doesnt go stale like petro diesel.
jon

For the most part i dont use anything but the lubricant. I havent noticed power or MPG gains with a few tanks of Amsoil Cetane boost or a few tanks of Power Service. It could be that the diesel I get is already "premium" 45-50 cetane, so it doesnt matter, but the station people never know and its not labeled. If getting 40 cetane then the additive probably is a benefit.

With the high compression, indirect injection, and low fuel amounts I dont think we have any issue burning up our fuel. I never have any smoke. Increasing Cetane just makes it easier to combust fuel (like what our precombustion is for) so you get better combustion, sort of opposite of octane which makes it harder to detonate.

I read a study about 2 months ago and it was shocking to see how some diesel fuel conditoner actually decreased the lubricty of the fuel. The shop that I deal with and what the study showed was that the stanadyne lubricty formula was rated real good. there are 2 others that are better but are very expensive. I own a 2002 volvo highway tractor and used howes diesel fuel conditioner always but not anymore after seeing the stats in the study. Google diesel fuel conditioner study or somthing along the line like that,you should find it. Sorry it dont have the link or address

here is the test in PDF

here is the test in PDF

I noticed that test didn't have transmission fluid in it... I for one will never run that... but my grandfather swears by it in his 6.9 Ford :cool:.

I noticed that test didn't have transmission fluid in it... I for one will never run that... but my grandfather swears by it in his 6.9 Ford :cool:.

A good friend of mine and his brother both run ATF in their Powerstrokes and have done so for a few years now with no problems.

Is running ATF bad for the environment?

I won't run ATF in an electronic 6.5 for fear of it staining the OS. I don't know if it will or not, but I don't want to be the one to find out. Thus, I'm going to just play it safe and not run it.

I am on my third tank using 2 stroke oil. About a quart per fill works out to have been 1oz per gallon. Even the wife noticed it was running a little quieter. I know when my brother runs his 7.3 power stroke with veggie oil its almost as quiet as a Lexus gasser. The down side is it smells like pork fried rice.:D

I am on my third tank using 2 stroke oil. About a quart per fill works out to have been 1oz per gallon. Even the wife noticed it was running a little quieter. I know when my brother runs his 7.3 power stroke with veggie oil its almost as quiet as a Lexus gasser. The down side is it smells like pork fried rice.:D

That's what i use in my truck. 1 qt of 2-stroke oil to a fillup.

No one ever told me about this. I'll start using 2 stroke in my fuel now.

No one ever told me about this. I'll start using 2 stroke in my fuel now.

power Service Diesel Kleen in the white bottle for winter and the gray bottle for the rest of the year works well too.

The gray bottle stuff helps my mileage as well. :D