Well I finally got around to replacing my rear rotors, new stock pads, etc. Spent a good bit of time filing the pads so they fit nice in the new stainless clips and lubed everything up nice.

Drained the fluid reservoir and refilled it with some fresh dot4 then bled the whole system.

I have to say I'm impressed with how well the brakes work now. Pedal feel it a ton better and the brakes have some nice bite.

After ~80k miles the fluid came out pitch black, I can only assume it was about 10% as effective as fresh fluid.

As a preventative measure I sprayed the vanes of the rotors with spray galvanizing (95% zinc spray) and gave all the brackets/calipers a coat of semi-gloss black rustoleum. That should stop all future corrosion in its tracks.

It's amazing what a little tlc and a few bucks on spray paint can do.

I'd still like to have a 16" rotor up front to fill the 20's but at least the brakes work MUCH better now. This thing stops better than my g/f's mustang gt.

All said and done the pads were $75, rotors were $38 each from the local parts store. $10 in paint and spray zinc. 1 Huge bottle of dot 4 and one medium size. That reservoir alone will take almost a whole HUGE bottle just to refill.

If you syphon the fluid out of the reservoir just enough that the fluid isnt drained from the lines, is it necessary to bleed the brake system after new fluid is added?

Is it OK if there is new fluid and old fluid mixed?

If you syphon the fluid out of the reservoir just enough that the fluid isnt drained from the lines, is it necessary to bleed the brake system after new fluid is added?

Is it OK if there is new fluid and old fluid mixed?

Yes if you don't drain it completely you wouldn't have to bleed them, but honestly I would anyway.

I just used my vacuum bleeder to suck the fluid from the reservoir and got as much out as I could. Poured a little fresh in to dilute it, then sucked that out. From there I filled the reservoir and went on bleeding the brakes. Start furthest from the master cylinder (pass rear) and work toward it.

Honestly I didn't think they needed to be bled but given the mileage and the fact that it's 4yr old fluid in there I figured why not? It only takes a few minutes. After seeing the black fluid come out i'm glad I did. With a $20 vac bleeder it's very easy for one person to do. Just keep pulling fluid till it comes out clear, and you'll be surprised by the air bubbles that come along the way.

The pedal is MUCH firmer now and the brakes actually bite.

As long as you use dot3 or dot 4 fluid you can mix them.

Remember, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air very quickly which drastically lowers its boiling point. Just the fact that it gets so dirty is more than enough proof that it's probably saturated with moisture as well.

On my fun car I bleed the brakes and flush the fluid about every 8-10 trips to the track.

Remember, NEVER EVER put fluid in the truck that has been sitting open (as in with the seal broken) on the shelf for years/months. Spend a couple dollars on fresh fluid if you need it.

Remember, NEVER EVER put fluid in the truck that has been sitting open (as in with the seal broken) on the shelf for years/months. Spend a couple dollars on fresh fluid if you need it.

Never knew that. I have a small bottle thats been sitting for 2 years since I replaced my rear caliper and had to top off the reservoir. Guess I'll throw it in the oil jug I have for my buddys waste oil heater.

The one problem i can see if I need to bleed the brakes is all but 1 caliper is 7 years old and the bleeder screws are more than likely rusted to the calipers.

It only take 20min to gravity bleed all 4 lines do it.