Wow, is all i can say. IMO it makes this truck finally look like a real truck. The ride is soooooooooo much smoother, no more "kidney checks" going down the interstate where its concrete. Dual shock kit looks great as well, everything in the kit was top notch, and man the H2 takeoffs look FANTASTIC!

Id take better pics, but just left the shop and am an hour from home, just stopped into kinkos to do some work and thought id snap/upload a few pics. Will be much better quality pics tonite.

http://www.fototime.com/{8FBAEE3D-EA88-46E8-BB2D-E9C08C2D6E2E}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{1037164D-BF41-4261-811B-8ED7981E82E5}/picture.JPG:ro) :grd: :grd:

I like it

See if you can get some pics of the wheels turned to show the clearance between the dual shock hoop and the tire.

I've been thinking about going to the dual shocks later this year.....

Sweet. Take more pictures.

I'm with nar, above. Especially 'cuz yours is white, too. Brock in Montana.

Looks great! How did you get the H2's to fit? I understand the Cognito kit requires wheel spacers for clearance on the upper A-arm.

just took more pics, will be uploading them in about 5 mins.....

alright, here are the pics........just put 500 miles on it and it was worth every penny......


just wondering, how many PSI are you guys running in your H2 tires?

http://www.fototime.com/{0E060384-6F4C-4058-9CE8-DD1E533164DC}/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{E0CD23CB-5746-45E7-A636-280C612F3CC9}/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{CF75AAAC-80F6-4465-861E-0105B8461CEF}/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{698F105D-16D3-406A-82D1-3FC281738D4D}/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{81398BE3-C8ED-43EB-A24D-05738730902A}/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{1BCE3818-8ACB-4C08-BB38-4AEC080F25B6}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{BD6BB20A-0D5D-4552-AD39-18E58AB08040}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{BADCE766-0061-4CF5-8C5F-99319CBCEC6C}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{137B5BEF-F656-4F5C-A50A-98222DC50D53}/picture.JPG

That looks great. What size tires are those?

Very good looking truck! Nice work.

That looks great. What size tires are those?thanks, they are Hummer stock Takeoffs, 315/70/17's i believe......

315's

My compliments, Mr. RUNNINGHORN. That's exactly the way I want my '01 ECLB to sit once I get to it. Thanks for the photos and detail. Good Job Done. Brock.

My compliments, Mr. RUNNINGHORN. That's exactly the way I want my '01 ECLB to sit once I get to it. Thanks for the photos and detail. Good Job Done. Brock.thanks bud, you cant go wrong with it. Let me know if you need any specific pics....

Plenty of clearance. Looks good.

Sweet!!!

I too am trying to find a way to smooth out the ride........

What options did you check when you bought the kit? I already bought the normal bilsteins, so they pry wouldnt fit on those shock hoops......

I still cant quite figure out why this kit is needed (other than to stop the upper A arms from hitting on the stops, but I dont think Ive ever had that happen....)

So why does this kit help the ride? Would there be any ride improvements with just the basic kit and a 265 tire?

Thanks

Sweet!!!

I too am trying to find a way to smooth out the ride........

What options did you check when you bought the kit? I already bought the normal bilsteins, so they pry wouldnt fit on those shock hoops......

I still cant quite figure out why this kit is needed (other than to stop the upper A arms from hitting on the stops, but I dont think Ive ever had that happen....)

So why does this kit help the ride? Would there be any ride improvements with just the basic kit and a 265 tire?

Thanks
I think its a combination of the aftermarket shocks and getting rid of the E load rated tires that helped it out......

How much does this lift run and how hard to install?

stock GMC 2500HD crew, like what you've done with the H2's

Go look at www.cognitomotorsports.com and you can see how it installs and everything.

How much does this lift run and how hard to install?

stock GMC 2500HD crew, like what you've done with the H2's
kit was $1200

install-fairly easy

what does it include? How about the rear?

Runninhorn, Let me know how tall your front wheel wells are from the ground (the center of the wheel). Mine is 42.25". Your truck is probably 42.75 I'm guessing? Did you raise the rear end at all?

Runninhorn, Let me know how tall your front wheel wells are from the ground (the center of the wheel). Mine is 42.25". Your truck is probably 42.75 I'm guessing? Did you raise the rear end at all?
hey buck, top dead center on each wheelwhell is 42.5" each dead on.......

Runninhorn, did you have to use the wheel spacers for the H2's? and have you taken this off-road?

I have the kit and am trying to decide which size tires 285's or 315's. I haven't been able to find anyone that has taken the 315's off-road yet and I am concerned about the clearance.

Runninhorn, did you have to use the wheel spacers for the H2's? and have you taken this off-road?

I have the kit and am trying to decide which size tires 285's or 315's. I haven't been able to find anyone that has taken the 315's off-road yet and I am concerned about the clearance.
hey, havent really gone off road yet, went thru a bar ditch with no probs saturday, and yea, i used the spacers, ill go get it muddy this weekend and let you know.......

Keep an eye on the UCA. The outer most point, mine have tiny spots where the paint is chipped on the corners. I have checked at nearly every concievable angle and there is always in excess of 1/4" clearance between that spot and the rim. Maybe it's from stones? Dunno

I've been running 50psi in the front tires and 50 psi in the rear. The tires seem to lay a flat foot print at that psi on my truck. 50 PSI cold is the max BTW on this tire.

I would appreciate that. I am hoping to install this either this weekend or next weekend.

I like it! Do you tow?Wow, is all i can say. IMO it makes this truck finally look like a real truck. The ride is soooooooooo much smoother, no more "kidney checks" going down the interstate where its concrete. Dual shock kit looks great as well, everything in the kit was top notch, and man the H2 takeoffs look FANTASTIC!

Id take better pics, but just left the shop and am an hour from home, just stopped into kinkos to do some work and thought id snap/upload a few pics. Will be much better quality pics tonite.

http://www.fototime.com/{8FBAEE3D-EA88-46E8-BB2D-E9C08C2D6E2E}/picture.JPG

what spacer is needed and where to get them?

thanks again

two front spacers........

what spacer is needed and where to get them?

thanks again
They come with the kit.

They come with the kit.
:exactly:

how thick are the front spacers? are they needed because of width and backspace of H2 wheels/tires or ???

how level/straight are your CV's?

not sure how thick, cant be very, to clear the UCA. mine look pretty straight.....

I like it! Do you tow?
I tow with my Cognito equipped truck, the heaviest thing I have is a 98 Wilderness Triple Slide and the dry wieght is 11,000 LBS. She rides so much better with this kit. There is no comparison to what it was like before.

how thick are the front spacers? are they needed because of width and backspace of H2 wheels/tires or ???

how level/straight are your CV's?
IIRC the spacers are very thin either 1/4 or 1/8 of an inch.

Looks good Runninhorn,

Is lift required to fit the 315's / H2 wheels or will they fit stock suspension (w/ spacer).
What is load range w/ H2's?

Are those the chromed H2's, I'm also looking at getting some for my ride. Sweet looking truck!!! :ro)

Looks good Runninhorn,
thanks bud. where is Guthrie by the way? sounds familiar

Where can you get this kit

Where can you get this kit
www.cognitomotorsports.com (http://www.cognitomotorsports.com)

while I do not have the cognito kit, I am running 315s with the green keys and have been off road several times. i do not play offroad, but have been in mud and snow galore while hunting and fishing ( I guess that is playing) either getting in or out of areas. i have not had any clearance issues (aftermarket front bumper other than a slight rubbing at the rear of the wheel well. I think I could eliminate this more with reshaping the liner more, but I have not as of yet. While running chains, this is a different story. you must be very careful and have a lower profile chain on, extreme turns or undulation can have undesired sounds of chain on body !!

I also have rancho rs9000s which make a huge difference. would like to ride in one jsut to see the difference, for $1200 it would have to be huge. I will say I think the ride is pretty good now, MUCH better than stock and no problems with steering components or anything else yet.

ski1-Any pictures? What width wheel?

So tell me guys, what happens when your driving in the woods and you drop a front tire into a hole that extends the suspension to it's maximum, do the CV's come apart like my last truck did with the wrong front axle spacers in it? Or are the shocks supposed to keep it from over extending??? I was looking at this kit on cognito's web site and it looks like this may be possible? I'm a little confused:o:

J-HEFF

IIRC the spacers are very thin either 1/4 or 1/8 of an inch.They are 1/4" thick ;)

So tell me guys, what happens when your driving in the woods and you drop a front tire into a hole that extends the suspension to it's maximum, do the CV's come apart like my last truck did with the wrong front axle spacers in it? Or are the shocks supposed to keep it from over extending??? I was looking at this kit on cognito's web site and it looks like this may be possible? I'm a little confused:o:

J-HEFF I talked to Justin at Cognito for a good while before I ordered the kit. You can tell by talking to him, he knows his sh*t about GM IFS. He assured me the CV's have much more travel potential then GM allows. The shocks do not limit down travel on this kit. The UCA has a tab welded on it and a Poly bump stop is located there, which limits down travel. This Cognito kit takes over where GM fell a little short. I've got quite a few pics in my sig.

ski1-Any pictures? What width wheel?
Nar,

I will shoot some detailed pics after work tonight, I owe Runninhorn some of my RA bumper as well. I am running a weld renegade EVO wheel, in 17 x 8.5 with 5.125" back spacing. I think anything over 5" will work, just requires some good rear wheelwell plastic shaping. I have done some, but could dome more as well.....

Looks like you only need to spend $500. I would just buy the yellow bilstiens for $260. So for less than $800 you can have a nice ride without lifting the whole truck (much more expensive) and be able to run a 315 tire (plenty big). If I can get a decent deal on H2's with tires, I will be going this route!

pics as promised............... Yes, its filthy:eek:

Guess now I post pictures, i have to show where I did not heat the plastic enough and man handled it, http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif there is about 5/8" between the tire and the lower metal under the rear of the liner, which needs more molding

AT FULL CRANK

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y210/ski1/pmti0007.jpg

TIRES ARE STRAIGHT

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y210/ski1/pmti0001.jpg


passenger side view, wheels cranked to the left. about 1.25" clearance in front of wheel liner

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y210/ski1/pmti0008.jpg

wheels straight, front has a lot of clearance, on a stock bumper about an inch has to be trimmed, tapering to nothing about the middle of the bumper IIRC

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y210/ski1/pmti0002.jpg

plnety of clearance in the rear



http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y210/ski1/pmti0009.jpg

Looks great.... can you weld that plastic?

i thought about that a while back, not sure because of the shape but I might try before replacing it. thanks for the idea

Looks good RUNNINHORN! :ro)

You had an advantage using that RoadArmor bumper....no trimming of valences! I'd just go buy another wheel well liner. Also, another member recommended using a rubber mallet and "smacking" the liner right at that bottom rivetnut to push the mount back a bit.

Use a hose clamp to hold back that parking brake cable too....

Tom :eek:

Ski1-Looks good, plenty of room in the front with the new bumper. Could use a little more in the back, when it gets muddy or iced up it will make noise on the mud or ice.. I am really thinking about going that route.

Nar,

been in both heavy mud and snow, with the wheel wells full of ice and junk. It does get shaved off of the tire at full lock on the rear, but that is not as much a problem as spinning the tires and throwing crap into crevices I cant find underneath with no mud flaps.....

Flaps are coming soon, just have to decide what I want next. I dont want to deter anyone from the original intent of the post of the cognito system, but for the money I will stick with my setup.

how bout some more pics further back SKI :D

So, advantages of cognito a-arm: If you can't align it with lots of crank, it will correct it. If you are hitting the stop it will correct that, allow more suspension travel. Shock spacer if you don't want to buy shocks. Dual shock mount. Greasable ends and bolt in ball joint. Really the most important is if you can't align it with it cranked, and hitting the stop. Everyone buys new shocks eventually so that isn't a big deal either way.

Sooo, if you can crank it up with stock or green keys and get the lift you want, and get it aligned right, then the only reason to get the cognito a-arms is so the upper a-arm isn't hitting the stop. So why not take the torch to the stop and make it an inch lower. Cut it off and trim some and weld it back on. Same thing basically without spending $500 for a new a-arm. It's still going to have the same travel and get the same angles on the cv and tie rod. Throw some longer bilsteins on all four corners, an add a leaf in the back so you have an inch more in the back so you aren't nose up when towing, and call it good. Run 35s and be happy. Anything wrong with that?

Try it and keep us posted!

I am really thinking about trying it... I hate to cut on a truck that is still under warranty though. (11 months old and 10400 miles) But then again if I do it right they would never notice, and I really only care about warranty for the motor and the electronics anyway. Maybe go use my buddies plasma instead of my torch so it is an even cleaner cut.

Be real interested in knowing the weight rating stamped inside those wheels. Thanks.

I am really thinking about trying it... I hate to cut on a truck that is still under warranty though. (11 months old and 10400 miles) But then again if I do it right they would never notice, and I really only care about warranty for the motor and the electronics anyway. Maybe go use my buddies plasma instead of my torch so it is an even cleaner cut.
Go pickup a set from a junkyard. If it works great, if not you can slap your old ones back on. Or by then you may like it to much then you would have to get the cognitos! ):h

Be real interested in knowing the weight rating stamped inside those wheels. Thanks.
any easy way to do this? Will go crawl under my truck now if you can tell me exactly where to look on the wheels......

On my Visions you can easily see the weight rating looking inside on the rears, not sure on a GM wheel though.

ok, just crawled down there and looked, lots of markings on the inside, but nothing really stood out as a load rating. Saw the letter "D" stamped, then "30035" then some other markings.

The tires are LOAD RANGE D, max single load 3,200 lbs at 50 psi

Well, thanks for all the crawlin' around, Horn, guess maybe they stamp them right around the lug holes, unable to see unless taken off. Just curious, anyway, if H2's are heavier rated than the PYO's.

I know you said you had no clearance problems, but I am getting ready to do this and have seen many others having to cut fender wells and relocate bumper. Did you have to do any of the above? Did you install the torsion bar keys with the leveling kit? do you have any lift in the back and how many cranks on the torsion bars?

I know a lot of questions, but worried I will run into problems after looking at others thanks

ok, just crawled down there and looked, lots of markings on the inside, but nothing really stood out as a load rating. Saw the letter "D" stamped, then "30035" then some other markings.

The tires are LOAD RANGE D, max single load 3,200 lbs at 50 psi

I know you said you had no clearance problems, but I am getting ready to do this and have seen many others having to cut fender wells and relocate bumper. Did you have to do any of the above? Did you install the torsion bar keys with the leveling kit? do you have any lift in the back and how many cranks on the torsion bars?

I know a lot of questions, but worried I will run into problems after looking at others thanks

i took the sawzaw out and cut a little, but nothing you can see from just standing beside it and looking at it........i also painted it black so it made it even harder to see.......ill try and get some pics of what i cut.......

thanks that would help out a lot

what about the torsion bar keys...did you use them, and did you relocate bumper?

i took the sawzaw out and cut a little, but nothing you can see from just standing beside it and looking at it........i also painted it black so it made it even harder to see.......ill try and get some pics of what i cut.......

thanks that would help out a lot

what about the torsion bar keys...did you use them, and did you relocate bumper?

didnt have to touch the bumper, not sure about the Torsion bar keys, ill ask the installer........

Well I know my way around GM IFS and Suspension Systems and COGNITO IS TRASH!!!

ON THE SITE... They claim that cranking the bars doesn't give a stiffer ride and this is not true.. When bars are cranked the put more twist/torsion in the bar, this does increase the tension and make the suspension travel much more harsh!!!! The A-arms are forced down and this force always pushing down is what gives a negative ride usually!!!!(Also gives the ride hieght increase) They may be defeating the torsion bars being cranked by using the keyways and other change in the keyway alignment but the A-arms are now at a angle that is more than designed from the factor spec.

Tie-rods and Ball-joints will be effected in the long run...

That is why REAL LIFTS use Drop Brackets for Lower A-arms or Knuckles to accomodate the Upper arms at a stock angle while lowering the Differential and Lower Arms!!! (this gives proper Ball-joint, CV,a nd Tie-rod Angles to operate)

I have helped install almost all Lifts from the 1988-1998 OBS trucks( I have a 1990 w/ a Straight Axle COnverisona nd 1-tons) and own 2 - 2004.5 LLY's and have been through the thoughts of a lift on them..

I am glad you have a GOOD RIDE, but Your Tie-rods, Ball-joints, and CV's are opperating at an angle that is at the limit of usability MOST LIKELY!!

Be careful and make sure that you keep an eye on the UPPER BALLJOINTS!!! And on the CV boots for wear!!!

I do like the Bilstiens they are a great addition to this kind of suspension!!

I came in a tad late but do wish to warn the NON-SUSPENSION KNOWLEDGEABLE CROWD!!!!

BIG;)

Well I know my way around GM IFS and Suspension Systems and COGNITO IS TRASH!!!

ON THE SITE... They claim that cranking the bars doesn't give a stiffer ride and this is not true.. When bars are cranked the put more twist/torsion in the bar, this does increase the tension and make the suspension travel much more harsh!!!! The A-arms are forced down and this force always pushing down is what gives a negative ride usually!!!!(Also gives the ride hieght increase) They may be defeating the torsion bars being cranked by using the keyways and other change in the keyway alignment but the A-arms are now at a angle that is more than designed from the factor spec.

Tie-rods and Ball-joints will be effected in the long run...

That is why REAL LIFTS use Drop Brackets for Lower A-arms or Knuckles to accomodate the Upper arms at a stock angle while lowering the Differential and Lower Arms!!! (this gives proper Ball-joint, CV,a nd Tie-rod Angles to operate)

I have helped install almost all Lifts from the 1988-1998 OBS trucks( I have a 1990 w/ a Straight Axle COnverisona nd 1-tons) and own 2 - 2004.5 LLY's and have been through the thoughts of a lift on them..

I am glad you have a GOOD RIDE, but Your Tie-rods, Ball-joints, and CV's are opperating at an angle that is at the limit of usability MOST LIKELY!!

Be careful and make sure that you keep an eye on the UPPER BALLJOINTS!!! And on the CV boots for wear!!!

I do like the Bilstiens they are a great addition to this kind of suspension!!

I came in a tad late but do wish to warn the NON-SUSPENSION KNOWLEDGEABLE CROWD!!!!

BIG;)

um, yea...........

um, yea...........

OK, dude just tryign to warn you!!!! You don't seem to really understand the suspension system anyway since you ahd soembody else install it...

I said I am glad it rides good for you, but BOTTOM DOLLAR says: Your Ball-joints will need attention in about half-their service life!!!!

If you want to learn more about COGNITO, visit PIRATE4x4.com or PavementSucks.com... Do a search and you will learn that the Off-road world doesn't think to highly of them or the owner!!! COGNITO and WHIPLASH have been sticking it to Folks for years now!!!

SORRY, you don't like what I have to say, I am just trying to worn you to look out for issue that WILL happen!!! If you don't believe me thats fine, I under stand its the INTERNET, but at least research it and be SAFE!!!

WILL

OK, dude just tryign to warn you!!!! You don't seem to really understand the suspension system anyway since you ahd soembody else install it...

I said I am glad it rides good for you, but BOTTOM DOLLAR says: Your Ball-joints will need attention in about half-their service life!!!!

If you want to learn more about COGNITO, visit PIRATE4x4.com or PavementSucks.com... Do a search and you will learn that the Off-road world doesn't think to highly of them or the owner!!! COGNITO and WHIPLASH have been sticking it to Folks for years now!!!

SORRY, you don't like what I have to say, I am just trying to worn you to look out for issue that WILL happen!!! If you don't believe me thats fine, I under stand its the INTERNET, but at least research it and be SAFE!!!

WILL

no prob, if i have any probs, VISA will fix it........

Hmmmmmm........

Checked out pavementsucks.com and couldn't find one bad post about them!

So what's the deal? You don't like them so you are bad mouthing them?


We are not talking about 12" lifts here just the leveling kit, surely it can't throw the angles off that bad.

Well I had a 12" Whiplash on one of my old trucks and I had ball joint problems with it from time to time. I was not hard on the truck at all and I can say that the ride was ok for all the lift that was on it and longevity of the parts was ok. Had to replace some steering stuff once and bolts and bushings a few times. Hence the reason my truck now has 285's on it and basically sits stock... Not going through all that again.

The guys on pirate will talk trash on you just for owning an ifs truck anyway. If you don't own a jeep they don't like you... Bah..

Whiplash is out of business, Cognito is not. They have nothing to do with each other. Big Will, what is your engineering experience? It's pretty obvious to me that you have no idea what you are talking about.

A7X,

Never claimed WHIPLASH and COGNITO were connected... Their only connection is that they both make Horrible IFS suspesion setups that are nothing more than Erecta-Sets with huge Jungle Gym Bracketry....

COGNITO's small leveling kit isn't going to have all these brackets and such, I am not concerned about that!!! Nor did I claim that the small lift was even compaired to thier huge stuff..

But with a 2"-3" Lift and no A-arms adjusted or dropped and no modification to
the knuckles, the ball-joints are opperating at the edge of their range of motion all the time!!!

SOME FOLKS ACTUALLY WHEEL, these angles will kill the front end quick on a moderate Wheeler. I understand that THis is more of a VISUAL APPEAL MOD. and that its for Towing , but the BALL-JOINT wear is still going to be there!!!

I Will not fight over the internet with the few that think I am full of it, the INFO. is out there to read, I have been seeing it and experienceing it for years.. And as far as my ENGINEERING EXPERIENCE, I have NONE...
I just have some Real World Experience under my belt and we build stuff like this all day long.... Of course this is just the Suspension mocked up and testign the flex a little... Its at only about 75% travel right now!!! 1-ton axles, SAS, 4L80E swapped with Klune-v, and hopefully an Atlas here soon, tbi 454 under the hood ASAP also, just have to finish NOT understanding anything about Suspension.. SORRY..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/BigWillieStyle_21/HPIM0798.jpg

But with a 2"-3" Lift and no A-arms adjusted or dropped and no modification to
the knuckles, the ball-joints are opperating at the edge of their range of motion all the time!!!

Ok. I would suggest you do your homework before you start calling stuff trash. Especially if you have no personal experience with it. The a-arms that come with this kit correct the balljoint angle, so that isn't even an issue. Yes, CVs and tierods are at more of an angle, but with stock wheels and tires the slightly increased angles aren't a big deal.

Also, as far as you claiming that this kit won't cure the "harsh ride" that can result in torsion bar cranking, how about asking people that ACTUALLY HAVE THE KIT. Almost everyone will tell you how much the ride quality has improved. The new a-arms have a new bumpstop on them. Cranking torsion bars doesn't change the spring rate at all, it is the distance from the a-arms to the bumpstops that determines it.

Great, you have a solid axle under your truck. So now you are an IFS expert?

i think this guy is just a hater.......
http://www.ls2.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

Not trying to be funny..... but who has a lift with stock rims and tires? Everyone I know that has one does it for one main reason ...BIG TIRES. Weather it's for looks or actual 'use', they all have big tires with a lift.

GUYS, I wont fight over the INTERNET, and I surely am no hater!!!

I never said it couldn't ride good!!!! LEARN to READ "A7X".. I said, ~I am glad yours rides good~~ to Runninhorn!!!!!

I also know it has an upper a-arm provided... I am concerned with the LOWERS!!! Look at the ball-joint angles on a stock truck and then the lower A-arms on a truck with this kit...

I will not fight over the internet with people who have never even torn into IFS components before so, I am threw here.... RUNNINHORN, I am glad yours rides good!!! I already said that several times... A7X, I am happy with my 285's soon to be 305's on my tow-rig and I'll keep the lifting and suspension changes to my Wheelin' rigs!!! BTW: YOU NEED TO DO SOME HOMEWORK, IF YOU THINK CRANKED BARS DO NOT CHANGE SPRING RATE OR TORSIONAL LOAD~~~

I only spoke here just to make a point that almost all of the 4x4 Community/WHeelers are aware of already, known to some that may have not known!!! If input that doesn't agree completely with your POINT OF VIEW isn't wanted then I will say no more, the folks who wish to learn will research themselves..

Good Day
WILL

I also know it has an upper a-arm provided... I am concerned with the LOWERS!!! Look at the ball-joint angles on a stock truck and then the lower A-arms on a truck with this kit...

Lower balljoints are barely an issue with trucks with cranked torsion bars. The operating angle is barely changed. The upper a-arm angle changes the most because the arm is significantly shorter.

YOU NEED TO DO SOME HOMEWORK, IF YOU THINK CRANKED BARS DO NOT CHANGE SPRING RATE OR TORSIONAL LOAD~~~


Actually, you need to do the homework. Ask anyone with qualifications this question. Any competent engineer will tell you that the spring rate does not change.

You will have accelerated wear on balljoints and steering components due to the bigger tires anyway, most guys just live with it. They are easy to change.