My "new" '86 'Burb was grinding as it cranked since I bought it on Tuesday. So I looked underneath and the inner starter mounting bolt was broken. Got the piece out, removed and opened unit, looks good. All bushings little wear, drive (one way clutch) tight, etc... Put it back on, with strap (wasn't on before), and still "clashing" as it cranks. Put a thick shim on, and sounded the same. But now the drive stuck against the flywheel, and had to panic to disconnect the batts! Put two thick shims, same disaster. I used a Taiwan solenoid, didn't forget the return spring(!). Could the nose be machined out of alignment? The flywheel looked alright, considering the grinding I put it through. I've re-built my own starters for 25 years, and find it odd that I used two shims and there were none originally. Sounds like a different problem. I recall reading the GM shop manual about the shim issue, so I know a little about the issue. Oh yeah, flywheel had a "ring", even though it was (of course) still bolted to the TC. This starter had been on for a long time, as the cable nut was badly corroded. Might have been the original, had the sealer between the nose and solenoid.
Should I open my wallet and use the gear reduc. unit from '91>. Ebay $150 new http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7970070323&fromMakeTrack=true, locally $250 reman.

I had the same problem when I did my conversion. I put in a new starter, and it wouldn't mesh with the teeth on the flywheel. I checked and re-checked with several parts stores that it was the right starter. I ended up doing this: I ground the nose of the starter body to give it more clearance. Then I drilled out the mounting holes to 9/16". Then I took a 3/8" nut and ran a 3/8" drill bit through the hole to remove the threads and enlarge it. Then I ground the nut so that the hole was off-center and it would be a snug fit in the 9/16" hole with a few hammer taps. I put the nut in one of the starter mounting holes in an orientation that would move the center of the hole in the direction I needed to get more clearance. Just doing this to one hole was enough. In the other hole, the bolt is a loose fit, but when tightened, it effectively clamps the starter in place.

When replacing 6.2 starters, I used to always use A/C Delco remans only! Early 6.2 starters had problems with the front housings and the Delco units used new housings that were stamped NO Shim. Since the advent of the gear reduction starter, by all means buy one of these and be done with it.:grd:

When replacing 6.2 starters, I used to always use A/C Delco remans only! Early 6.2 starters had problems with the front housings and the Delco units used new housings that were stamped NO Shim. :grd: What kind of problems? I bet this baby was grinding for years. Poor alignment on the casting? Sounds like THUMBSMASHER is on the ball. I'll get the bushing for the other starter, but might try the $150 gear jobby.

I went with the new delco starter.
Benefits:
Smaller starter - Alot less cursing when installing this one!

Quick installation time - after the old starter was out, I was done in about 5 minutes!

Shim - problem was solved.

Price - I dont know how much is is at the parts counter, however I got mine on Ebay with a one year no questions warranty for $130.00

Comparison - Cranks just as well if not better than the old one.

Ditto!

So I left off with the cheapie Taiwan solenoid burning up because the starter wouldn' t disengage once the engine started. The Die Hards are weak, and I had to panic and get the cables off. So I went to the local starter shop and got a drive end bushing for the spare starter a friend gave me. And I bought (fom starter shop) the gear reduction "new" 6.5 unit for $125. Apparently the engine was blown, so just a few finger prints. On it went, and same problem. Balky disengagement when cranking, and kept spinning once started, not good! One shim, then two, then three, then I pulled a few threads out of the block. Things are getting good, huh? A longer bolt, and now it doesn't engage the flywheel, or something. So off it came, and I ran over to Auto Zone for one of their "gold" solenoids. I was hoping to find a copper contact disc inside, but maybe I'm dreaming. So next to NAPA for an ECHLIN ultra super whammo $42 baby. No copper disc. I wonder what makes it "better"? More windings in the coil??? But I couldn't install a $$42 jobbie. Soooooo, I scrounged through my starter pile and found a minimally used solenoid, re-soldered a loose wire and installed it on the donated starter, no shims, and easy on that stipped thread. And it cranked big time! YEAH!!! :muahaha: Even with only one battery. So what was wrong before? The shift fork on the gear unit was behind the drive. Bendix couldn't retract, so kept spinning with flywheel. Never seen that in 25 years. Not good! Wonder how thet happenned? Starter shop is closed for a week. I also pulled the ignition (electric) switch off the top of the steering column. It looked a little toasted inside, so I opened up a unit from a '90 Pontiac 6000, exactly the same. A little better shape, and on it went. Lets see if it continues to run even when key turnd off. The metalic powder inside the old switch may have conducted a little power to prevent me from shutting 'er down. Time will tell... :rolleyes:

I burn out a starter a year - lucky, NAPA lifetime, so just a bother. A friend told me aftermarket starters with no shims actually had too much metal on the end of the starter - and machined some off and no more problem - built TOO thick.

Dennis

Too much metal, hmmmmmm. I put on a different unit, and it cranks like crazy, but still sounds a little "tight". I wonder if your machinist friend is on the net? The noses of my two starters are cast "NO SHIM". I may try a thin one anyways. I just picked up another 2wd crew cab. Starter sounds sick. Here we go again... :lol:

I just bought a brand new starter for my 6.2 as well. Even though it was an off-brand, it too had "NO-SHIM" stamped right on it...

Maybe someone thought it would be a good idea to place a different flywheel assembly on your powertrain as well... If I'm way off, ignore... attribute it to "thinking outside the box"...

Where do you get the shims anyway??

If you're a carpenter, you buy (white, non-aromatic) cedar shingles and score and snap then into 1 1/2-2" wide stips. If you're a GM mechanic, you can get them from a junkyard that usually just let them drop to the ground when salvaging starters. The "Help" section at Advance auto (et al) sell them in a variety of iterations. IE; angled for Chevy with offset bolts, different thicknesses such as 15 or 25 thou. Anybody have a picture? The difference in the sound of the teeth meshing is pretty obvious, especially when the engine catches and the starter "shrieks". :eek: