I took the fuse for the abs out. The reason I don't want abs is that the abs will kick in for a second just as the truck comes to a stop. It got very annoying. The abs was ultra sensitive, which would cause the truck to damn near loose the brakes at times. So I decided to just pull the fuse for the abs to disable it. I would rather my truck not have abs anyways even if it was working fine, I feel I can control the breaks better in slick conditions myself than the abs can.
But anyways on to my question: I was expecting the abs light to come on, but I wasn't expecting the parking brake light to come on. Why did the parking brake light come on? Is there anyother way I can disable the abs other than pulling the fuse? My brakes are much more responsive now that the abs is disabled and I love it, just don't want that parking brake light on. The abs light doesn't bother me much, it's yellow and not very bright.

The parking brake light is actually called the red brake light. It is illuminated when the park brake is applied or when you have a complete ABS failure.

When you have an ABS failure, you can either have the amber ABS light and/or red brake light displayed depending on the failure. Since, you pulled the ABS fuse, this is a complete failure and you should have the red brake light. It you have a partial failure, the amber light should be displayed.

A red brake light means you should take the vehicle immediately to the dealer for repair and amber light means you have decreased performance and the vehicle should repaired at the next opportunity.

If you repair your wheel speed sensors, your ABS problem will probably go away.

Two problems with your situation.

First, GM uses dynamic rear brake proportioning based on the weight being towed. This means the rear brakes are turned up with a load and turned down when unloaded. With the ABS disabled like you have I would guess that the rear brakes are at full "power" which is why braking feels better. Try doing an emergency stop, I bet your rear tires will lock up way before your fronts. You'll love this.

Second, You can't out brake ABS on pavement, wet or dry. There are very few racecar drivers in the world that can out do ABS and given the option they would all take ABS any day. Now try to brake and manuever at the same time and you'll end up in the weeds or worse.

You can do better than ABS in very slow speed snow / icy conditions and in the mud. The nature of all 4 wheels usually being in a constant state of slip confuses the ABS computer because it doesn't have a wheel with traction to compare the other 3 wheels to.

As a compromise to what you are trying to do I would first find out if your rear or your front tires lock up first. If the fronts lock first then the proportioning is decent enough to try to disable ABS. I would rig up the ABS fuse through a switch on the dash. When driving in conditions you feel you can do better than ABS then simply flip the switch. Leave it engaged for normal driving on the street it will keep you alive.

Also if your ABS is engaging under normal stopping then it's broke and needs fixed. Like MTU said you probably have a falty wheel speed sensor throwing things off a bit.

Hey!

I have the same type problem and when I was getting the rear rotors and brakes done the tech said that he could not do it but I could just unplug one brake. I did the drivers front side and the abs light does come on but the braking was better.

He also told me that one day i would be driving if I did nothing they would fail all together. He said the way they were built the rust and dirt are getting under the sensors and the abs would come on and I would get no brakes. My abs was coming on all the time but My rear pads and rotors were shot. Fell apart, disintegrated when they were pllued apart. IMO I put a business card over the dash light. If anyone here has a better solution I would like to hear it.

I Have The Same Issue, And I Unplugged The Fuse Also (TODAY), Anyway The Drivers Side Front Wheel Speed Sensor Is Dropping Out Causing This Issue( I USED A SCANTOOL TO RECORD AND GRAPH THE WHEEL SPEED SENSORS). Only Way To Solve This Is To Buy A New WHEEL Bearing Assy. They Dont Sell The Sensor Seperate.

It sounds like you are blaming the ABS when there is probably a different cause. Have you checked for a hanging disk pad? The sliders get rusty and they stick, makes one wheel either stop first or one not stop. Either way, the ABS kicks in thinking its road traction. Could also be the wheel sensors. Wife's car had that and I bought 2 new ones, but when I unplugged, cleaned and replugged the sensors the problem went away, so the new hubs are sitting...

jb

I Have The Same Issue, And I Unplugged The Fuse Also (TODAY), Anyway The Drivers Side Front Wheel Speed Sensor Is Dropping Out Causing This Issue( I USED A SCANTOOL TO RECORD AND GRAPH THE WHEEL SPEED SENSORS). Only Way To Solve This Is To Buy A New WHEEL Bearing Assy. They Dont Sell The Sensor Seperate.
you can buy the sensor separate from the dealer. and you may not even need one just clean the area of the hub it mounts to. get all the rust off so it sits flat.